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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Check for more Factory Service Manuals.

    You will need to register to download. no big deal its free. :)
  • Thanks, Omar. I can always use better manuals.
  • Last night when I started my 1996 accord, the D4 light on my dash panel started blinking and it took quite a bit on the gas pedal to get her to go. After driving a mile or so, the light stopped blinking and all seemed to be ok. I know this stuff dosent just go away, anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong with my tranny? Oh, the car has about 160k miles, and its my first automatic ever.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The blinking D4 light is the transmission computer telling you there is a malfunction, either the computer itself, of one of the controls. Many auto parts chains (Autozone/Advance) will read the codes free of charge. The code's should give you an idea where to start looking for the problem.
  • kzookidkzookid Posts: 2
    Is it easy to replace a thermostat or water pump? I know 'stats run under $20 for the part, but what about water pump prices? I don't here any funny sounds. The exhaust is clean and doesn't smell. I know one of the fans stays on when the vehicle turns off and runs for a few minutes if the temp runs above the middle line. I believe the fan in the front by the grill?
  • I have a 95 Accord LX with a 4 cylinder and an automatic transmission. Lately, my car has been making a "thunk" noise (it sounds like a heavy boot hitting an unfinished plywood floor) when upshifting. Yet it only does this when I am not driving "pedal to the metal". If I am accelerating heavily, the car shifts smoothly like it always has.

    It feels like it is hesitating to shift, the RPMs go higher than they should. The car also downshifts going down hills earlier than I feel it should (and used to).

    Anyone have a clue about this? My transmission fluid is clear red, doesn't feel dirty, and it smells like it just came out of the bottle.

    I appreciate your comments.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I would check the engine and transmission mounts. Just guessing.
  • yeah, autozone only tests cars 1996 or newer. im pretty sure its my transmission computer- i found one on ebay and it on its way.
  • I have a 1996 Accord that the speedometer has stopped working. I have changed the speed sensor but that did not help. I have searched the web and found several things referring to checking the voltage to the sensor. All articles refer to a yellow wire being open. On this vehicle there are two wires going to the sensor. From the sensor plug to the sensor there is a yellow and a white. From the sensor plug back to the wiring harness there is an orange with blue stripe and white with blue stripe. The orange wire plugs into the yellow wire. The white has continuity to ground so I assume this is the ground. There is no voltage to the orange wire. All articles say the yellow wire should have battery voltage but there is none to the sensor. There are references that the voltage should come from fuse 1 under the dash, Fuse 1 is good. I can apply battery voltage to the orange wire but sensor still does not work. I am at a loss here, Has anyone else had any similar problems?
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Do you have cruise control? If it works, there is not a problem with the VSS.
    What does the speedometer read/do when the car is moving?
  • It's not too difficult. Start by cleaning all the junk out of your center console so you can get to the two phillips screws on the bottom (you'll need to pry up the plastic piece covering the screws). Next remove your drink holder (it'll pull right out) and remove the screw under it. Now, you should be able to lift the console over the parking brake and set it aside. You should be able to locate 2 screws on each side of the gearshft (remove them). Pull the ashtray out and there should be one more screw under it. The whole plastic bezel around the gear shift and radio unit should loosen now ( it's just held in with clips). Disconnect the lighter connection and the defrost and clock connection from the back of the plastic trim and lift and remove it. You should see screws on each side of the front of the gearshift. remove those. In order to slip the unit over the gearshift, remove the two phillips screws hlolding the shifter knob on (one on each side). Slip the gearshift knob off and slip the gearshift plastic bezel up and over the gearstick. The lamp for the unit is on the left side. Check to see if it just fell out, in which case you can push it back through the hole and twist it to lock, or replace the bulb by just reversing the previous mentioned fix.
  • Cruise does not work. The speedometer does not even move when driving. The sppedometer was replaced once before. If the speedometer goes out, would that keep the cruise from working? I have no idea. Where does the vss get it voltage from? This vehicle does not have the vss that is driven by the small shaft. This sensor is located on the front side of the transmission and only has two wires going to it. Anyone have any ideas?

  • I have the same issue except my cruise control works. The speedometer stays @ 20 mph. It does not affect anything so I just left it alone!
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Sam421 has a problem with a bad speedometer head .

    The signal for the speedometer and cruise control coms from the VSS.
    Your car is OBD2 CODE level "96 and up" I would thike if the VSS was bad you would have a check engine light on. (if needed the obd2 code plug is behind the ash tray)

    Take a look at this site, It is not you year but it may give you ideas.
  • Yes it does have the P0501 code which says it is the VSS. But I have swapped VSS with an old one and it was the same results. using an ohm meter and checking for voltage by pass the vss over a piece of metal it will produce a voltage. If I check it in the car with the wheel jacked off the ground, I get voltage but still nothing on the speedometer. It stays at zero all the time. I have ordered a new vss, but do not want to install it because then it can't be returned if mine are not bad. Could this be a computer (ECM) problem?

  • If it helps (in case you didn't know), I can give you approx speeds in 4th gear that match certain RPM, if you have a non-Vtec 2.2L Auto (like mine).

    1200 RPM per 30 MPH is about right.

    1800RPM - 45mph

    2400RPM - 60 MPH

    2800 RPM - 70 MPH

  • OK, Have an update. Drove car this evening just to make sure cruise did not work. When I started down the driveway, speedo was working. Drove the car about 20 miles and all was fine and cruise worked. Got back home, turned the car off. A couple of hours later decided to drive it again, this time speedo did not work. Started up the road and speedo started jumping from 0 to driving speed several times and finally stopped all together. When it was would drop to zero, cruise would cut off somtimes and sometimes it would remain engaged. After I got home, while backing car up to park, speedo would go up to about 20 mph while in reverse and sitting still. If I go to drive, speedo goes to 0. Back in reverse, up to 20. If I put in reverse, back to 20, press the cruise button(On/Off), speedo goes to 0. Not sure what is going on now? Any ideas from the pros?

  • Hi. I changed the battery...the radio reads "Code." I have the original dealer cards (hurray!!) with the code and serial number. But when I enter the 5-digit code using the preset buttons, the radio does'nt seem to pay attention...just sits there reading "Code." How do I wake up the system doesn't seem fair...I have the code!. Thanks
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Did you make a mistake and enter it more than once? I know that if you do, you have to wait some time (can't remember how long) before you enter it again. The owner's manual or the back of the card should give you instructions.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    See if this helps>

    If the incorrect code was tried to many times you will need to do a reset. ( Disconnect the negative terminal for approximately 2 minutes)
    Enter corresponding code number corresponding reset button.
  • Thanks! Battery-disconnect was exactly the fix. Thanks again.
  • Does anyone have a step-by-step procedure, or pictures, on how to replace the radiator in my 1995 Honda Accord?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I don't have a step by step, but it's not hard to change a radiator. Drain the radiator, disconnect the fan motor wires (plugs), disconnect hoses, remove the reserve tank, remove the radiator with the fans attached (easier to change the fans over while the radiator is out of the car), remove the fans from the old radiator, put the fans on the new radiator, then put the radiator in, reconnect hoses and wires for the fans. When refilling the radiator be sure to loosen the bleed bolt (should be under the thermostat), fill until coolant comes out of the bleed bolt, then tighten the bolt. Remove the radiator cap turn the heat all the way up, run the engine up to operating temperature, fill radiator, and reserve tank.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Go to this site and download the 94 manual it will give you all the info you need.
    94 thru 97 are almost the same.
  • bowie1bowie1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Honda accord ex and when it is cold outside and the car is not really warm it gets stuck in park for a few minutes.

    I know it is not the brake release. It has nothing to do with the key.

    What I notice is that in the dash there is no gear position. None of the lights are lighted. I can hold in the shifter button and move it in and out of park but the light does not come on so I can not get the key out of the ignition.

    Is there some type of gear position sensor?
  • I have noticed that my Accord has been using oil on long freeway
    drives (400 miles +)
    I seem to be low 1/2-1quart after a long freeway drive.
    I may also be losing oil on normal driving (but its probably less).
    I don't see any leaks when the car is parked. Not sure if its being
    burned or whats happening to it.
    Has anyone else experienced this on their Honda engine?
    Do those oil treatments help? Which ones would you recommend
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Could be the shift position switch (located beside the shifter in the center console), the transmission range switch (on the transmission), or the wires going to and from them. Personally, I would have the battery tested. Low battery power can cause communication problems between the control units. My dash indicators (PRND etc) would not light, and my A/C lights would not light, and the A/C would not blow cold air, at the same time. All caused by a weak battery. It's free to check the battery. To check the rest, you would need a service manual, and a multimeter.
  • I am amazed how bulletproof the GEN-5 Accord is.
    I have 260K and I beat the hell out my car. The only things I needed to replace was the Alternator @ 260K, Starter @ 220K and Radiator @ 170K and EGR valve @ 200K. Just wondering what other problem areas are popping up (to a significant degree) over 200K. Thanks
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I agree that the car is pretty amazing. I've had a few things that would be considered normal. The only recurring item was the clutch master cylinder. I've replaced two of those. The clutch itself lasted over 220k, which I found to be fantastic.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    All at different times:

    - Radiator cracked near the top
    - Main Cooling Fan Motor failed
    - Brake Master Cylinder (brake fluid wasn't changed enough)
    - Rear Power Door Lock
    - Windshield Wiper Motor Clutch
    - Clogged A/C condenser drain caused water on pass. side floorboard

    1996 Accord LX I4 Automatic, 185k miles
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