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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Don't wait, drive the car directly to the nearest mechanic and have the master cylinder checked out.This problem happened to my wife's car and we put it off. Two days later she came to a stop sign and the pedal went to the floor, no brakes. She made a quick right turn and just missed being hit by a pickup truck
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 36
    Thanks for that information.
  • I need to replace the condenser fan, one of the two fans attached to the radiator.
    It seems to mount to the radiator with just 2 bolts on top (easily accessible).
    Has anyone done a replacement without removing the radiator?
    Im trying to get an idea how difficult the job is going to be. Thanks

    Background on the problem:

    I have a 97 Accord with about 280K. Often the AC compressor will shutdown (most likely from overheating), mostly when I am driving low speeds or idling. On the freeway I NEVER have this problem. Engine coolant temperature and coolant levels are fine. I discovered that EVERYTIME I have this problem, the accessory (2nd) radiator fan isnt spinning. I believe its this fan that helps cool the AC evaporator. If I move the blades with a pencil, they do start spinning. Which means the fan is getting electrical power. The bearings are probably starting to go. No doubt I need to replace this electric fan.
  • hi im new to this site but im been browsing and i liked it......well i have a 97 honda accord and for some reason whn i release the gas pedal my car slows down on its guessing my brake pad stick to my rotors can n e 1 tell me whts causing this so i can fix it....also is it true the hub or the bearings wht ever it is messes up whn u replace the rotors......
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,861
    Have you checked for low refrigerant level?

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  • I was on a cross country trip from California to Michigan in my 97 Accord 2-dr EX. I pulled over to check a map in Reno, Nevada and when I put my car back in D, the engine just raced like it was in neutral when I gave it gas. The reverse gear worked for a bit in the parking lot, eventually no shifter position resulted in movement of the vehicle.
    Ironically I was on my way to a local Reno Autozone to read the OBDII code becuase my check engine light has been on for a week. California Autozones won't lend the equipment anymore (some lawsuit) and I wanted to avoid the $80 most places charge to read the codes. I would bet that those codes had something to with a malfunctioning transmission and I was ignoring the warning. Lesson learned: buy one of those engine code readers and keep it in your car. I called a local Reno Honda mechanic and two transmission places and all of them including the AAA tow truck driver said the transmission is toast and needs replacement (especially with 280K on my car). I couldnt risk an extra tow to a mechanic to have this verified for sure (I have only 4 free tows from AAA a year). One place quoted $2600 for a rebuilt transmission, another shop quoted me $1800 installed for a transmission from a low-mileage Accord. A new tranny in California is no doubt more expensive. So now I am having it towed back to my house in California. I will probably keep it in my driveway until I can sell it for parts. Its really a sad day. I love my Gen-5 Accord and I feel like dumping $2K+ on a transmission would be a waste of money. Even with a replacement transistion, there is atleast 2K of other work that it eventually needs, and its up for California Smog in 4 months (2 years ago it barely passed). To me its not just another Gen-5 accord. I have some mods, my interior looks brand new and the wear and tear give it its unique character. Perhaps some of you were once in the same position and can offer your thoughts.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    My advice - sell the car for what you can get for it. The transmission work will cost more than the car is worth.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,861
    280K? The car owes you nothing. It's been a great soldier, so give it a decent burial. Last thing you want to do is put a brand new transmission in a car with the other 90% worn out.

    I doubt the warning lights would have saved you. It was just the car's time--you beat the odds by 100K.

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  • gariegarie Posts: 3
    '96 Honda Accord
    150k miles
    standard transmission

    Recently, my car has been stalling when I start it. The car starts, but then the car slowly dies. It hasn't stalled after I've driven and am sitting at a red light. I talked to a mechanic and he says he wants to do a diagnostic check and get data from the onboard computer but I feel like that's a waste of money since I'm pretty sure a checklist could diagnose my problem. I thought it might be a fuel pressure issue but he said that's extremely rare. The car only seems to stall when it's hot outside - tonight after it was quite cool the car started very well and the RPMs didn't dip at all.

    On an unrelated note, the car makes a ticking noise when turning left. I think it's because of the CV joint. Will anything bad happen if I ignore it? I'm (obviously) trying to spend as little money as possible but I don't want my axle to break in half while turning or anything.
  • aarceeaarcee Posts: 2
    My dash light have gone, how can I check them without pulling the dash apart?
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    My dash light have gone, how can I check them without pulling the dash apart?

    All of them at once? If so, I'd check the fuses first.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Yes a check list of 10,000 items makes perfectly good sense. It probably will only take a couple hundred hours and cost thousands of dollars. Those code things can't be trusted.

    I would just keep on driving it with the CV joint ticking noise. When the wheel locks up you will know for sure what the problem was. At that time it will cost only a couple thousand to repair the damage.

    You conclusion make perfectly good sense :sick:
  • gariegarie Posts: 3
    As I understand the "code thing", it requires the engine to report a problem code. I may be no expert, but I'm pretty sure if the car's computer detected a severe problem and reported such an error code, the "check engine" light would come on, which hasn't happened, or I would be happy to look at the error code.

    I had my friend's boyfriend check out the cooling system and it ended up being an 8 dollar fix. Guess that checklist thing would've worked after all if the man at the auto place had actually listened to me. I saved $92. I'm also moderately sure that there aren't 10,000 different things that could go wrong with the cooling system.

    Pardon me if I don't fully believe you when you imply that the wheel will lock up if I keep driving on a bad CV joint when I consider the rest of your post, but I'm not going to spend money if it is unnecessary. I was ASKING if it was unnecessary. I define necessary to be life threatening, car totaling, or cost me a great deal more if I wait. If someone who doesn't belong to the Internet Hate Machine and actually read my question would enlighten me as to what can happen if someone were to drive on a bad CV joint, I would truly appreciate it.

    I'm pretty sure most people who ask questions here are looking to save money or they would just hand the car over to a mechanic and say "have at it". I'm very sorry if my attempting to not waste my money horribly offends you.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I don't think the CV joint breaking would lock the wheel, but when it does break, you will not be going any further toward your destination. The clicking noise is a warning, and you are driving on borrowed time. It could last a year, or it could snap tomorrow.
  • aarceeaarcee Posts: 2
    Neither of my fuse boxes match the diagrams on them, so I had to check every fuse. They appeared OK.
    Can a fuse appear OK but still be blown?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,861
    Yes it can appear okay and still be bad. Best to check them with a continuity tester (ohmmeter)

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  • tybumtybum Posts: 4
    Barry I have the same problem with my speedometer did you ever find a solution? If so please let me know what I must do to get the speedometer working.

  • gariegarie Posts: 3
    =/ Ok, I'll get it looked at as soon as I can. Thank you for your help!
  • jakewhitejakewhite Posts: 1
    i have a honda accord 4 cyl vtech think it is 2.2 i have a mis that starts about 2000 rpms to about 2500 rpms i change spark plugs fuel pump went bad change it and filter put in new rotor and cap. it starts maybe after 4 or five minutes driving then last all the rest of the time i have pulled of fuel injectors wires one at a time to see if they would mis and they did. lost do know where to go now
  • terryv2terryv2 Posts: 1
    Ony one of my high beam lights work, I have checked fusses, bulb. Also my drive lights are not working, is this a concted problem? Does anyone know where I can find the Daytime running lights control unit? I did run a jump wire acrose the high beams this does not solve the dive lights problem. Help I need to get this ready for an out of province inspection.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hey all, quick question.

    I have a '96 LX 4-cyl 4-door with 193k miles on it. Lately, I've noticed that my blinkers will hesitate from the time I push down the stalk to the time they start flashing. It is worse when temps are cooler, and when the car hasn't been driven for the day. As time goes on, the hesitation goes away.

    I'll move to signal a turn, nothing will happen for about one second, then I hear the click but at double-time speed (no flashing on the instrument panel or outside) much like when a bulb is out, then it will pick up and blink like normal. Today was the longest time-period with no blinking (over 5 seconds) and it nearly got me rear-ended; I had to go to the next block and double back to make my turn.

    Any thoughts or suggestions on what the problem could be? Any/all replies are most appreciated!



    PS: No bulbs are out, and the hazard flashers work immediately when you press the button.

  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    My guess is your turn signal flasher is acting up. The last time I worked with flashers, there were 2, one for the turn signals, one for the hazard flashers. Typically they use the same flasher module, which means if you can locate them (follow the sound) and swap them with each other, you can see if you have a bad one or not without spending a dime.

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    How might I get to it I wonder... (not just asking you MrBill), if anyone knows, thanks!
  • tybumtybum Posts: 4
    My speedometer quit, wife drove the car played with the odometer reset and speedometer worked for a few miles. Cruise always worked. Changed the VSS( vehicle speeed sensor) did no good, but since I change the VSS the odometer has registered an additional 40 miles and I am sure the speedo worked during those 40 miles I just did not notice. Speedo registers 20 mph all the time the switch is on. Since it worked and does not worked it sounds like a loose wire or connection but where do I look or is there another solution??

    Sure would like some help,

  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    You can find info on fuses in your owners manual under "taking care of the unexpected" Turn signals are located in the under dash panel on the drivers side.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    It's not the fuses that are the problem; its the flashers. They aren't the same thing, right?
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Signal flasher is located in the under-dash fuse box. As I recall, hazard flasher is located in the under-hood fuse box located on the passengers side in the front of the engine compartment. If they both are the same, you can put the hazard flasher in the slot for the signal flasher to verify that the signal flasher is the problem.
    Flashers and fuses are different but they tend to be located in the same box, either under hood or under dash. You should find a diagram under each cover that shows where the flasher is and which fuse controls what circuit.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Awesome. Thanks for the info. So all I (likely) have to do is pull them out, like a fuse, and swap them?
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    As long as both are the same. The diagram under each cover will give you that info. If one is 7.5 amps and the other is 15 amps don't swap them, buy a new one.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    If your unsure exactly where the flasher is, or which module is the right one, turn on your turn signals and listen for the click. Most flasher modules produce the clicking noise, so they are usually easy to locate. An online parts store shows both the emergency flasher and turn signal flasher as the same part number, so swapping them out should work. They just pull out/push in. They are bigger then fuses.

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