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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • I just looked at the autozone web site 89 or 67 dollars. I was curious because I have a 97. same car. But if you dont care I sure dont. If you dont have to worry about your emissions then dont trip. I live in California and a cat costs 2 or 3 hundred dollars plus the price of a failed smog test so things are a little different for me. Have a good day
  • Thanx for your input... :)
  • There is one school of thought that says to replace O2 sensors when spark plugs are replaced. Sensor performance will diminish with age. Like a spark plug, contaminants accumulate on the tip and reduce its ability to produce voltage,or the sensors heater may not be working. It's also a good idea to check the sensors wiring and it's plug. If your sensor is in open loop you are running on a default rich mixture which will damage the cat over time.
    Sensors can be checked with a digital storage oscilloscope.It has a readout similar to an ekg.
    Keep one thing in mind, if you choose a universal sensor as a replacement, the wire colors may not be the same as the wire colors in the harness. On a 4 wire sensor, 2 are for the heater, 1 is for signal and 1 is for ground. The one code you don't want to see is a P0420 catalyst code.
  • Thanks for checking.



    PS - How many miles on your '97?
  • 207,000 still runs great passes smog. I had a little problem awhile ago.I thought it was possessed checked everything finally realized that my coil wire was working its self loose lol
  • First the Wiper issue: Until recently wipers on my 1997 Honda Accord were working fine. Recently, within the last two weeks, it started taking me a few tries to get them to work. I would turn the switch on low to high and it seem to "kick start" them. This progressed to where they would start but then stop with the wipers stuck straight up and down. Now they do not work at all. I have thought of the problem being either a short or a dead wiper motor. Could it be something else? If it is most likely the motor, how much would this hit my wallet if I just bought it and second how much to have it replaced by a garage?

    Second issue is the suspension problem I noticed that my ball joints were going bad and did a little research online. There is a recall listed at the site I listed below but the Honda folks say my VIN is not part of the recall. Over 100,000 recalls and it missed me.!? There ought to be a law.....thanks in advance for any info. earch&rcl_ID=99V069000&summary=true
  • My wipers were worn out when I got my '96; my grandmother who had owned the car was the type to run them on high, even in a light sprinkle. They would run, by wouldn't stop where they should, slapping together at the base if the windshield, and the driver's side one would hit the windshield moulding at the top. Loudly.

    I had the motor replaced (supposedly the clutch was burned up) by my dealer for around three hudred, back in 2005. No probs to speak of from it.
  • The tranny on my 89 accord lxi went out it has the A20A3 motor. Will the tranny off of a 1990 accord f22 motor fit?
  • Have 1997 Accord SE 2Dr.Coupe Auto.,2.2L Non-VTeck Just bought the car and was told that a line to AC unit missing. To get one at junk yard and recharge,and it will work fine.Was told that I could easily find this problem.No need saying how I got into this,just need some help out.Does anyone out there have a diagram of this unit,or can explain in laymans words what goes where, lines, hoses,vaccum or other wise and any thing else Im not thinking of. Should say that both lines coming off compressor are hooked up to unit and seem to be hooked on other end too. Thanks People
  • here is a site for the complete service manual. download the third one from the top. ( above honda accord 1994 zip) good luck
  • I am happy I foudn this board I have a problem I need advice with. I drive a 1997 Honda Accord LX with 145,000 miles. My check engine light came on a few weeks ago as well i have started to notice temprature fulxuations on my temprature gage. Driving up hills or sitting idle in traffic the needle gets right up to right before the red, like 90 percent up there. Moving again after being idle, going steady, or going downhill the needle drops back down to between the halfway 50 percent reading to about 65 percent. Sometimes the drop is not a steady descent but a very sudden drop of the needle.

    Also when I turn the car off the fan continues to run for 5-10 minutes, I am guessing to cool down the car. When I feel as if the car is going to overheat up near the red I will turn the heat on in the car, but the needle does not fal but the air doesn't seem to be any hotter than if I normally turned the heat on in the winter. Sometimes I check the hood when I reach my destination and it does not feel extra hot to the touch but the fan will run. When the fan runs the air comming out from the engine smell real metalic. I just got the oil changed a month ago and still have atleast a thousand miles till my next change. I have checked the coolant levels in the reserve tank per the Manual instructions and that seems to be right where it should be. if anyone has any ideas they would be much appreciated!
  • first off check fluid in the radiator itself the reserve tank could be full and still have no fluid in the radiator itself. second thing go to auto zone and have them read the code for the check engine light. then post back. do not let your car get to hot
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Down load the FSM that is referenced in relpy #1478 or other referenced at website.
    The FSM will tell you how to bleed the air out of the cooling system
    The system will air lock and not pump correctly or contact the fan thermostat.
    I agree with montijo.
    This link may help
  • Hello there Accorders,

    *** Note: I have been advised to post this there (props to replier) so sorry if you have seen my Edmunds first post already ***

    If you have a moment, I wanted to do a quick run-down of my experience with my 1995 Accord Wagon, my current situation, and any advice that you might have. Please be gentle as this is my first post.

    I purchased a 95 Accord Wagon LX at a very decent price in 2006 and have had a load of issues with it ever since. I buy cars to keep and kept my 90 Toyota Corolla for 13 years before I bought the Accord ... and had about 5 times the problems with the Accord in three years as I did in my 13 years of owning my Corolla,

    In 2006, I replaced the:
    - gas lines (rusted)
    - brake lines (ditto)
    - a couple of other items... I think a ball joint and brakes ... all to safety the vehicle

    In 2007:
    - exhaust intermediate pipe
    - winter tires
    - front brakes
    - front calipers

    In 2008:
    - timing belt and water pump (due)
    - valve cover gasket
    - daytime running light module
    - summer tires
    - exhaust pipes (minus exhaust intermediate pipe)
    - muffler

    In 2009:
    - windshield
    - radiator
    - catalytic converter (for emissions ... passed for two years)

    The total over the three years is pretty scary at over $8500 (this includes the tires and regular maintenance oil changes) ... the car has also been Krown rust proofed every year on top of this since 2006.

    Well ... now it has a rusted (leaks included) gas tank, worn rear brakes (to be expected) and "internal (hidden) corrosion and a hole 'bigger than my mechanic's hand' "

    My mechanic, who I trust despite all of these repairs, told me that the car is not worth fixing ... especially since I had him look at it now for me SELL it. My wife and I had to buy a minivan for our expanding family and her business. I had planned to sell this car for some much needed home renos (yeah, smaller project) and now am left with this 'thing'.

    What would you do with this car? Fixing it to sell it is not worth it given its value as a 95 Accord. My cousin sold her 95 Accord for 4K but this thing is obviously not going to give me much of an ROI. Sell it for parts (if so, how)? Take a sledgehammer to it?

    I also wonder when I should have given up on this car. I mean no disrespect to Accords as my friends and family have a few of them ... it just seems that I have the 'special one'. I would not go into financial woes as I am sure that many of us have them but it seems like I really got burned on this car.

  • JB weld the gas tank so that it dont leak and sell it
  • It seems that most the items you repaired were maintance type of items. I don't know how many miles it had on it when you brought it, but knowing if and when a timing belt was replace, will tell you when you buy it, to expect to have to spend that money. The radiators crack I give you that, I just replaced mine on my 97 coupe, but I did the work myself and it cost me $100. Exhausts rust, ball joints go bad, a windshield has nothing to due with whether it is a honda or a toyota. I have no idea what the deal is with summer/winter tires, maybe buy all season tires and you won't have to buy eight tires. If you would have just replaced the whole exhaust when the intermediate went bad, you wouldn't have spent all the additional labor replacing on component at a time. If you spent $8500 for those items you got robbed.
    And please don't do what the other guy said, and JB weld it so the next guy can find out down the road.
  • JB weld is awesome. I had a huge crack in my tranny like 3 inches long running 4 directions ten thousand miles later and it still runs great! Dont knock the Jb it is great stuff lol
  • Thanks montijo and the others for your replies. I had the receipts yesterday and maybe I have been robbed ... but it is true ... I did buy 8 tires and four rims as part of that. The brakes/gas lines and c. converter labor was expensive.

    I would not feel too good about the jb weld if I am passing the problem to somebody else (which from my first few items seems to be what the seller did to me). If I did not just want to toss this car to a junkyard, I guess that I could just sell it for parts. I am speaking with a friend's brother who is a Honda mechanic today. Perhaps he can just take it away from me and strip it for himself.

    Thanks everybody! This is a very useful forum!
  • Oh ... sorry ... the car had about 170K on it in late 2006 when I bought it. I now have it at 220K.
  • Hi,
    I just bought a 95 Accord with 90k miles on it. It looks good overall, but upon undercar inspection, I see that driver side steering rack boot is torn into 2 pieces.
    Also, the owner tells me the AC compressor needs replacement.

    My questions to the global wisdom:
    1. Can I replace the steering boot myself (quite handy and not afraid to tackle new jobs)?
    1a. If yes, can someone recommend procedure for changing it?
    2. Can I replace the AC compressor myself and have the system evacuated/charged by a mechanic?
    2a. If yes, again can someone post a procedure for doing this?

    Thanks very much for advice.

  • To Question 1 -
    I believe if you replaced this with a 1 piece boot you would need to pay to have an alignment done after you finished anyway. Also I have needed to replace my tie rod end on my 94 accord 2 out of three times when I have taken the steering apart.

    To Question 2 -
    If you live in a state that sells R134a you may be able to replace yourself and charge. Just make sure to follow all instructions in a Chilton's or Haynes book, replace any O-ring seals that get exposed, and be very careful when putting it back together (those aluminum parts are expensive!). One more thing to think on - I did this myself, it is a bit of a job and a few other parts need to be removed. If I remember correctly a specific bracket gave me a little bit of frustration. However it is still very satisfying to have the job done yourself.

    If it were me, the AC I would tackle myself. The Steering boot, I would find a local mechanic that has an alignment rack, see if you can negotiate for them to put a new boot on for $10-20 more than the cost of the alignment.
  • Thanks Trhenning for advice.
    I guess, there may exist split boot for steering? If yes, since this is not rotating, this could be an option for me?

    For AC, what about "evacuation"? How will the system perform if it has not been cleaned out?
  • after you replace the ac compressor you need to pull vacuum on it. some auto zones will lend you a vacuum pump. you need to pull about 30 pounds of vacuum and make sure it holds it. ie no leaks
  • When you evacuate the system, you not only remove air that entered the system, but more importantly you remove moisture. If you don't the moisture mixes with the oil and creates a corrosive sludge that attacks the aluminum components.

    You need to run the vacuum pump for at least 30 minutes to boil off the moisture. Just drawing a quick vacuum shutting off the pump and holding it for a while to check for leaks isn't good enough.

    Although replacing the A/C pump may be your fix, if the old pump had issues and it sent metal fragments down the line, you may need to replace more then just the pump. A/C systems also have filter/dryers and that may need to be changed when you replace the pump.

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    First of all, it's not a steering boot. It's covering the drive shaft/CV joint. If the grease has all come out of the boot, the CV joint will not last much longer. If very little of the grease has come out of the boot, you may be able to get by just changing the boot with a two piece replacement. If not, I would change the axle/CV joint and the boot at the same time. It's not an easy job, but someone with reasonable intelligence, and a repair manual can do it.
  • Elroy5,

    It is a steering boot. CV boot is fine. Drive axle is fine too. It is a steering rack boot that covers the seal from steering rack towards the ball joint.

    Thank you to all who provided valuable insights.

    It seems that steering boot can be replaced by myself, provided I am very careful separating the ball joint and keeping the tread position of the tie rod end the same as before to try to avoid alignment.

    AC? I will try it myself. As far as evacuating, will a cheap pump like this work?

    Many thanks again,
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    It's a dice roll every time you buy used. I prefer to buy new then drive it forever.
  • that pump should work if there are no leaks. the only problem is that there is no gauge to obsere anyways once you have vacuum put in one whole can of refrigerant (with the motor running and air on high) because the compressor wont start working till then, then put in the rest good luck
  • My 1997 Honda Accord 4cyl. condenser fan began to run continuously (even after engine was shut off) after cycling the A/C temp. selector from hot to cold. I disconnect the condenser fan to avoid draining the battery when car is not in use. Now the condenser fan is intermittently working and no cold air is available with temp. select. in cold position. I serviced the A/C with R-134A and didn't seem to work. Hot works fine. Any ideas?
  • Is the A/C compressor spinning (clutch activated)? Is either A/C lines going into the firewall cold?
    When you turn the selector knob on the dash from hot to cold, is the in-line water valve on the heater hose opening/closing?

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