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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • I haven't tried the Harborfreight pump, looks interesting. I doubt the pump comes with any A/C lines. That style of pump requires a constant supply of compressed air. The manual says it needs 4.2 CFM @ 90 PSI. Do you have a compressor that can keep up?

    You may want to purchase one of their A/C manifold gage sets as well. That will give you the needed lines as well as a gage to monitor for leaks.

  • Mr. Bill, I'm on it...I'm checking as we speak. More to follow. (Also, it briefly blew cold air yesterday but then went back to warm air with temp. select knob in cold position.)
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Check the hot water hose cutoff valve.
    The hose supplies hot water to the heater coils and if the valve does not shut the hot water off during the cooling mode you will get warm air and think the air conditioner is not working correctly.
    The valve is located on passenger side near the fire wall. It can be seen from the top side behind the motor. On position, the lever on the valve is inline with the hose. Off position, The lever on the valve is 90 degree to the hose. You can reach the valve from the top side and make sure the valve is completely 90 degree to the hose.

    Been there done That ;)
  • One more thing you might be able to check. If your vintage of Accord uses an A/C receiver-dryer with a sight glass in the top, you can see if there is any refrigerant passing through the receiver dryer. A low system will show fluid with alot of bubbles. The dryers are usually mounted near the front of the car, around the condenser.

  • Back to the subject of steering boot torn.

    If I succeed in separating the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle, could I then slide the new boot onto tie rod without having to unscrew the tie rod alignment nut, thus avoiding a need for subsequent alignment?

    Or will the new boot not fit around the ball joint?

    Is there anything I need to put inside the new boot before installing? I think not.

    Thanks again,
  • athaoathao Posts: 1 jpg 03.jpg re004.jpg

    Hi i was just wondering if any of you guys ever replaced a Heater Core for a 1994 Accord. My accord doesn't have heat. It blows and all but no heat. I checked my temp switch and turns out it was broken. Got a new one and turns out when i turn it to the hot mode(right).. It turns back to the left cause its not strong enough to stay there. somethings wrong with the part (on the bottom where the temp cable hooks onto) i kinda noticed it when i inspected it. So i kinda cheated. What i did was i popped my hood and adjusted the temperature switch to open and threw a tie strap on there so it wont shut the valve. After i did that i turned my engine on and left it running to see if any heat would come. After 17 minutes didn't noticed anything different. Same old air. The only different thing that i noticed was that if i set it into the defrost/blower mode i can feel a little warm air coming out of the LEFT driver side. But then the center blowers and the passenger side blowers blow regular cool air. So i figured its a possibility that it might be my Heater core so here i go....30 Minutes before it turned dark i got the dash out and the center console piece disassembled. Looking at the pictures this is where im at right now. Was just curious....Do i have to take out the round metal bar (which connects to the steering wheel-see image) that runs from passenger side to driver side? Because when i try to take the top piece off...It moves but wont come out because it keeps hitting the bar. I'm assuming i would have to take that part off and take the steering wheel out or down???
    And 1 more thing....Is the heater core located in the bottom of the center console (see picture) because that's what im thinking cause thats where the inlet/outlet hose come in & out. This is my 1st time doing this so any help and Tips (regarding heater core removal) would be appreciated. Thanks and sorry for so long
  • jewls1jewls1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 honda accord and it started shutting off while driving and when it shuts off the dash lights will stay on but there is a clicking noise coming from under the dash. The car will restart but you must turn the ignition off and crank again . then it will shut off again . I replaced the main relay and was ok for a couple weeks but now it is doing it again. also now the speedometer stopped working and light will start flashing around the d on dashboard . any ideas?
  • My cigarette lighter has become loose and it's hard to get anything to charge with it now. Can this be fixed? Or do I need to replace the it? I've removed the console before and can get back there. I'm just not sure what to do with the lighter once I'm there. I've search online and see that others have had this problem, but I haven't seen anything about how to actually repair it. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  • chrysachrysa Posts: 1
    When I first bought the car about 6 months ago, the heat was working, but not too well. Then after the summer when I put the heat back on after not using it, it completely stopped working and only blows cold air. The AC also doesn't work, but I don't care so much about that, because I don't really need AC, and when I bought the car the guy told me that AC wasn't working and there was a part that he had bought for it that I have in the trunk. My question is, is there anyway I can fix this myself, because I really don't have much money to get it fixed. Now that winter is coming and it will be freezing I am going to need heat! Can anyone offer me any advice? It would be much appreciated. Thank you.
  • Check your coolant (antifreeze) level. A lack of this will cause your heat not to work. make sure to check both the overflowtank and radiator (when the car is cool!).
  • My guess would be the knob on the dash isn't opening/closing the inline water valve. If you look near the firewall, you will see a cable operated valve installed on one of the heater hoses. Take a look at the valves position, move the dial on the dash to the opposite position, and look at the valve again to see it's actually moving.

    Another possibility would be a plugged heater core.

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If your temp control knob springs back on you, the knob is cracked. Take the knob off, and look closely. What happens is, when you turn the temp knob, the cable binds, and since the knob is the weakest link (plastic) it will crack where it goes into the dash, over the little rod. I bought two new knobs for my old Accord, before I figured out what was happening. When you try to turn the temp knob too fast, the cable binds, but if you turn it very slowly, it doesn't bind up. You can prevent cracking the knob again by turning the knob slowly, or you can turn it half way (or until you feel resistance) then release the knob for a couple of seconds (letting the cable release the tension), then turn it all the way to heat. I thought about taking the dash apart, and trying to lube the cable, but the turn one-half-at-a-time method always worked for me, so I never did.
  • Hi. New here. My accord EX has120,000 and I love this car!! I'm having two problems. #1 After about ten minutes of driving from a cold start, my tach drops to zero then it bounces around for a bit and then corrects itself. Also,SOMTIMES the engine either stalls surges while the tach is bouncing. #2 The trannny has held third gear at about 4000 rpm and not shift into overdrive(4th) This has only happen twice in the 50-60mph range. I have heard of this 98-081 TSB related to the speed sensor that may help me get my car fixed for free?
  • Hi. My accord has 120,000. The tach drops to zero after about ten minutes from a cold start, bounces around and then corrects itself. Also the engine stalls a bit during this but not always. Is this covered by the TSB 98-081? Can I get my car fixed for free?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    The warranty extension relates to the following conditions:

    1.The MIL comes on and the cause is traced to an emissions-related component.

    2 The vehicle requires an emissions-related repair because it failed a mandated emissions test.

    3 Any emissions-related component fails.

    The warranty extension is 14 years or 150,000 miles.

    It's hard to say whether you are covered or not, but it's certainly worth a shot.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Thanks, It's free to ask!! What's is the MIL?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp

    CEL - Check Engine Light

  • I went into Starbucks for my morning coffee...came out and green fluid was leaking out of the front of my car. Asked a guy in a truck next to me what was happening. He said it's radiator fluid, the stuff that keeps your car from over heating. The temp gage isn't at the half way mark when driving. Do I need it look at by a mechanic.

    Thanks much~
  • YES!! If you lose your coolant,you lose your engine. Are you sure that it was your coolant and NOT the previous car parked in that parking spot? Which side is leaking from?
    My 97 is leaking coolant now@120,000. Checked hoses and gave a visual inspection,cant find anything. Appears to be leaking from the passenger side. Not driving the car and its going to the shop friday.
  • Make sure you check the coolant level in your car. It is possible that the level is so low that the temp sensor is no longer submerged in the coolant. If this is the case, it may not send the correct signal to your gage. You might have an overheated engine with the gage reading lower than normal. If you check and find the coolant level low, you can probably fill the radiator with water and be able to drive to a mechanic (if it's not too long a distance.) You don't want to take any chance that the thing might overheat. That can really be the start of some serious problems. Get it looked at as soon as possible.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Leaks can be anything from a worn hose to the radiator core rotting out. As others have said, not something you want to wait around on.
  • Hi all,

    1997 Accord EX 2.2L Manual
    Check engine is throwing code 71 (Cylinder 1 misfire)
    I replaced my plugs and wires at first, reset the codes and went on my merry way.
    Drove fine for about 1,000 miles, Check engine light came on. Reset the ECU Again. Came back after about 600 miles.

    This seems to happen only on drives of over two hours and usually when I am fifth gear cruising along the highway.

    Took the car from Chicago to St Louis tonight. CEL is again throwing code 71. I reset this alongside the highway, came back about 5 minutes later. Tomorrow morning I will reset it when cold and see if it comes back right away.

    What I am wondering is:
    What are some of the most likely parts or conditions that may cause this? (EGR valve? Overheating Ignition Control Module?)
    Is anyone familiar with this type of problem?
    Could this be a timing belt issue?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    I'd switch gasoline to a brand name fuel, and also add fuel injector cleaner and see what happens.

    However, a 5th gear misfire does suggest a momentary breakdown of the ignition system.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Hello! I have a 1997 Honda Accord Lx 4-cylinder 4-door. Manufacturing it is during the final year so it is close to 1998. Recently I've seen significant cracks on four of my tires. Just yesterday, I saw some of the tire traction are chipping off. (Looks like dry skin that are wrinkly and can easily scrub off....) I have a concern over safety so I bought it to get some quotes on the tire prices.

    Quotations from Costco:
    - Michelin Energy ($121.99 each w/ their $70 off promotion = Total is $529.24)
    - BFG Touring ($86.99 = Total is $381.24)

    Quotations from Les Schwab:
    - 86H SS-657 All Season Blackwall ($66.73 + Wheel Spin Balance + Valve Steam + Siping + Tax = Total $418.56)
    - 86H Zexius XI-427 All Season Blackwall ($83.47 + Spin Balance + Valve Steam + Siping + Tax = Total $491.55)

    Note: I am currently using Michelin from Costco, and it has been 4 years since it was new.

    1) Which of the tires above / listed are my best options?
    2) Are the price / quotations I received reasonable?
    3) Have been using the current tires for a little over than 4 years, is it time to get them replace?
    4) What causes my tires to start crackling at the very first place?

    Thanks!!!!!! Hope to hear more opinions from you all.
  • I think the price is not my priority concern at the time. I am still wondering why they would want me to replace the whole rotor instead of just the pads. I just had a feeling they were lying to me about my rotors were damage and need new ones.

    Thanks for all of your replies!! I am so glad to have second opinions. Now I guess I will take that as a lesson and start going to mechanics friends would refer to, at least I know they wouldn't trick me into something costly.
  • Thank you very much. I did the fuel system cleaner, This morning I reset the ECU yet again. I took about an 80 mile drive (expressway, 5th gear) before the problem popped back up. approx 63MPH it the CEL came back on. Again this is a 71 code (has been every time. Only code that seems to pop us is cylinder 1 misfire, not any of the others. Do you think this points to EGR, Ignition Control Module, or somewhat else first and foremost?

    All the best,

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    This is an incomplete code, I guess a generic code from Autozone or some such?

    This code could signify a gazillion things. It's not much to work with. So you have to get a Honda trouble code on their scanner or a deeper scan and/or more diagnostic work.

    If you want me to guess at this point, and I didn't have a scanner, I'd check for vacuum leaks at the manifold and then I'd clean the MAF sensor and see what that does.

    This misfire could be caused by so many other components, is the problem.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I believe the autozone code is P0031 OBDII, I did have it scanned the first time around. Cylinder 1 misfire. I got the 71 code by jumping the troubleshooting connector and counting the long and short flashes on the CEL. According to the book, it is the same code. The problem I am having with figuring out what to replace is that it doesn't happen all the time. Just after the car had been running at highway speeds for a continued period of time. I know an EGR is $100, an ignition module between 60-70. Trying to save replacing more than what is required. Maybe a set of bad wires perhaps, but I did just replace them. Wondering about an overheating part too.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    no, 7-1 (if that's what you got by counting flashes) is not a Honda misfire code. That's an air bag code according to my book.

    There's P0171, lean fuel mixture, which does indicate possible 02 or EGR problems.

    P0131 is also an H20 sensor code.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I ran up to autozone before it closed. OBDII States P0301 Misfire Cyl. 1
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