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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    1) Which of the tires above / listed are my best options?

    You may want to expand your search a bit. A great place to start is to check out

    BTW, siping is an option on tires from Les Schwab. You don't HAVE to have that done.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    [P0301] The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire detected.

    Misfire detection is accomplished by monitoring the crankshaft speed with the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor which is attached to the crankshaft.
    If misfiring strong enough to damage the catalyst is detected, the MIL will blink during the time of its occurrence, and DTC P0301, P0302, P0303 and/or P0304 will be stored. Then, after the misfire has ceased, the MIL will come on.
    If misfiring that increases emissions is detected during two consecutive driving cycles, the MIL will come on, and DTC P0301, P0302, P0303 and/or P0304 will be stored.

    NOTE: If some of the DTCs listed below are stored at the same time as a misfire DTC, troubleshoot those DTCs first, then troubleshoot the misfire DTC.

    P0106: MAP sensor
    P0171, P0172: Fuel supply system
    P0401, P1491, P1498: EGR system
    P0441: EVAP incorrect purge flow*
    P1359, P1361, P1362: TDC sensor
    P1381, P1382: CYP sensor
    *: Sedan KL (SE, LX without ABS)/Wagon

    Possible Cause

    * Fuel injector clogging, fuel leakage, air leakage
    * Fuel injector circuit open or shorted
    * Injector resistor malfunction
    * Spark plug carbon deposits, fouling, malfunction
    * Ignition wires open, leaking
    * Distributor malfunction
    * Compression low
    * Valve clearance out of specification

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  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If the misfire only happens for one particular cylinder, I would check that plug, wire, distributor cap etc. If the EGR was causing misfires, seems like it would happen on more than one cylinder. Maybe try switching a plug and wire, with another cylinder, to see if the misfire changes cylinders.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    He said he put in new plugs and wires....but that's still a good suggestion you have there.

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  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Well, I've made the mistake of buying cheap plug wires from Autozone, and they caused misfires a week later. :sick:
  • I have a 1996 Honda Accord EX with approx. 175,000 miles on the car. My left front (driver side) upper wheel bearing is in need of repair as I have been informed. Should I also have the lower wheel bearing repaired at the same time too ? My mechanic mention that MOOG auto parts has a combination upper and lower wheel bearing assemble with the control arm and the bushings connected to the assemble. Is MOOG auto parts good to put on my Honda ? A Honda dealer gave me an estimate of approx. $425 for the upper and $275 for the lower repair. Any advice on the best manner to handle this repair issue is welcome. Thanks, Greg
  • Wheel bearings are outer/inner not upper/lower. Are you referring to bushings?
  • I will buy another set of wires. I am about to put on a different Distributor cap. I replaced my ignition coil before leaving St. Louis. I took off the distributor cap and it seemed unusually hot, upon closer inspection the plastic had that clearish discoloration on the side of it as if it had nearly melted. I replaced that, cleaned the distributor cap inside and made sure the rotor looked fine. I had a compression test done on this car too, that came back normal, but didn't have enough time or $$ to get the rest done right away.

    Here is the odd part.

    I found out specifically where the CEL will come on every time. On my 350+ mile drive up north the P0301 code (no other code or cylinder) would only come on when driving between 62-67 MPH in 5th gear and was feathering the gas to maintain speed. If I use 4th gear between 60-70MPH the misfire cyl 1 code will never appear.

    Does this sound like an O2 sensor? If it is, could it be possible it would be just giving bad readings and not be actually bad? Possibly Mass Airflow Sensor?

    I am thinking this is more RPM range + throttle position than anything exactly "speed" related. Any further ideas? Thank you for the help and info thusfar.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I was thinking about the Crankshaft position sensor, but that usually causes multiple misfires on random cylinders. Like you said, I think you are looking at something rpm related (distributor, coil, plug, wire etc.).
  • abidkabidk Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 97 accord with 85k on it. The manual recommends changing the timing belt at 105k or every 7 years. The car is 12 years old and looks in generally good shape but i have no idea what state the timing belt is in or if it was ever replaced. To replace the timing belt/water pump would cost about 500 bucks and I bought this car for under 5 grand as a cheap car to not spend money on. Is it really risky not changing it, because I want to avoid preventative maintenance costs on a car I bought so I wouldnt be spending money, or would I be risking severe damage? Basically, what kind of damage could I expect if the belt breaks, and is that something I should worry about before 105k (because it has been past the 7 years or is that not too important)?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Basically, what kind of damage could I expect if the belt breaks, and is that something I should worry about before 105k (because it has been past the 7 years or is that not too important)?

    That's very important; time causes belts to deteriorate (just as other components). If the belt fails, you're looking at, to put it simply, engine failure. You'd need a replacement engine for the car.

    Spend the $500; it can't be overlooked, and you're really on borrowed time. Just make sure when you have the timing belt done you get the water pump done. Most mechanics will tell you this since the big cost here is labor, and the same labor is required to do both. When I did mine, it was going to be $400 for the belt, or $478 for both ($400 + Water Pump Cost); there was no other labor charge for the pump. I own a '96 with the 2.2L I-4 engine (and the book says 90k, not 105k). If yours is a 4-cylinder and indeed a '97 model (as pictured below), it should be done at 90k miles. In 1998, they upped it to 105k.

  • Hey there. I wanted to ask something else about a new development on this car. I replaced the brake lines in 2006 and the gas lines in 2008 and am now told that they are both starting to rust again.

    I have had this car Krown'd (undercoated every year that I owned it since 2006). Is this even possible? Is there a such thing as 'surface rust' on these lines. Sorry that these are lame questions but I cannot see any way that lines this new could rust again so quickly ... even in the Great White North. The lines were exposed under the advisement of a mechanic (so that the crap would not accumulate in the shield).

    Anyway, lame duck question, but how is this possible? I park it on asphault

  • abidkabidk Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reponse, I was thinking the same thing. I figured I may as well get it done cause if I dont do it now I know I will have to in the next two or three years anyway if I am planning on keeping it 3 years or more I may as well get it over with now instead of risking it.

    Incidentally, I did just check the manual and it definitely says 105k, with the exception of 65k for extreme temperatures. I guess they changed it from 96 to 97.
  • Sorry about the late reply but if you have a place like Advanced Auto they will haul out a computer and hook it up to your car for free and get any error codes and tell you what they mean. The best part is it is FREE. My plug was located behind the Ash Tray. May be too late to help you with this problem but it may help down the road.
  • Forgot to add that the wipers will work if I hold down the control arm. What could be the problem?
  • My starter has broken free and I'm looking to replace it, can anyone tell me what size the bolts are to hold the ears in place? It is a 1996 Honda Accord 5 speed... Help!
  • Your local honda dealer should sell these bolts, not too expensive if I remember correctly (somewhere to the tune of $3-$7). I usually ask for 20% off and get it too. I think the main problem is, were you able to get your old botls completely out?


  • I had the same problem with a 1995 Honda Civic SI. I finally diagnosed the problem resulting from the coil pack that is located under the Distributor cap. Be careful removing the wires as the protective coating may break off. I purchased one at NAPA and that did the trick.
  • My 97 accord with120,000 miles. The tach would bounce around and then flat line after about 10 min. from cold start. Also the engine would hesitate in conjunction with the tach. Replaced the dist to solve the tach issue($90 used) and the a new coil fixed the hesitation. Hope this can help someone else.
  • tried starting the car this morning..won't start. Blinking D4 light i think is the problem. Ive been fine driving with it when the light just wouldn't show when it was in D4 gear..All the other gears light up just not that one. But now i believe its the reason i can't start the car..Need help
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    What year is your car? Mr_Shiftright has replied to you here.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Okay. Next time just post in the Maintenance and Repair discussion that covers that year. Note too that it's only necessary to ask your question in one place. The Accord followers tend to read all the Accord discussions, so your post will definitely be seen.

    Welcome - hope we can help!
  • I have a 1994 Honda the charging system is not working. We have been through 3 altenators and 2 batteries. Just changed the dash cluster and still nothing. Can you help me?
  • I have a 4 cylinder 4 door accord dx value package. Does anyone have a good picture or a good description of how to access the thermostat. My heat does not get very hot (it gets a little warm) but not warm enough to counter 15 degree weather so I am pretty certain I need to replace or fix my thermostat, but I cant figure out how to access it. Is it accessible from the top of the car or do I need to go under neath.

  • Have you checked your coolant (antifreeze) levels?
  • Yes, I had this problem both before and after getting a new radiator installed. I didnt even think about it when I got my radiator replaced bc it wasnt too cold yet so I didnt notice it.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Yes the thermostat could be stuck. Probably not the problem. To find it. follow the hose coming off of the upper radiator to the engine, where it stops that is the thermostat housing. The thermostat is inside the housing. You have to go inside there to remove it.

    Most likely you need to bleed the air out of the coolant system.
    Look for a bleed plug near or in the thermostat housing.
    It is also possible to loosen the hose going to the heater to bleed the air.
    Make sure the water valve in the hose going to the heater is open.
    When the arm on the valve is inline with the hose the valve is open.
    When the arm is 90 degree to the hose the valve is closed.
    The operating linkage fails at times.

    If you have air trapped in the system the water most likely will not go through the heater.

    Been there done that ;)
  • sib1sib1 Posts: 5
    what does the air temperture sensor do and if it is broke will that make D4 light
    blink also car started raceing with high rpm will broken air temperture sensor cause this problem
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    The D4 light blinking is a trouble code indicator for a transmission fault.
    Similar to the Check Engine light.

    The number of blinks is the fault code.

    Thi link shows how to check the D4 codes on a Acura, your Honda is probably the same
    Need to know the number of blinks
    Some one may have info for the Honda.
    What is the transmission doing?

    Intake Air Temperature will not cause the D4 blink.

    You would have a Check engine light for the IAT sensor

    IAT sensor fault in system, poor start, high / low idle, poor mileage, etc
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