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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • rthomaxrthomax Posts: 1
    My Honda is shutting off as others have reported and I've also taken it to the dealer only to be charged for a diagnosis that didn't find the problem. In summary the dealer could not replicate the problem and thus recommended new dist cap, rotor, wires and plugs. I replaced all these parts. Problem reoccurred. Car shuts down whether traveling at any speed and anywhere. After 4 or 5 turns of the ignition, it will run fine for miles. However, every day it shuts down at some time while I'm driving.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • dharg1970dharg1970 Posts: 3
    I had the same problem with my 99 Accord at 90,000+ miles and tried the dealer and an independent garage. The dealer situation was like yours except I wouldn't leave it. It didn't fail during a regular visit to the dealer and I didn't want to spend $90 for a diagnostic fee. I left the car with the independent garage for a week and it didn't replicate the problem for them. Another time this spring when it cut off about 13 - 15 times in 3 miles, I took it back to the independent garage and they got it to cut off and said it was the ignition switch, but said they didn't they couldn't replace it because the dealer had to reprogram something (the dealer didn't agree when I checked with them).

    I finally took it to an auto electric specialist that wasn't quite as close to me. I gave him all the history and symptoms. There was no indication from the engine except you'd get no acceleration when you stepped on the gas and the digital odometer would go blank.

    Although he couldn't get it to cut-off, he saw a problem with the electronic portion of the ignition switch and said it should be replaced no matter what. He was very good about asking questions and ruling out the other possibilities like the main relay and the components within the distributor assembly (coil, igniter, etc.). He replaced it and I've put about 800+ miles on it with no failures.

    A good auto electric specialist usually doesn't deal with anything but electrical problems and is a lot better that the general automotive facilities.
  • estyle77estyle77 Posts: 2
    Hi My accord 2000, 2.0i uses oil on long distances.No smoke from exhaust and no leak from below the engine.Fault light came on after i bought it as the oil was completely finished.Engine itself is smooth and no extra noises.It has done 84000 with full service history.One mechanic has said that it's normal for the car to use oil.It's using approx a gallon for 4000 miles.Recent service has not picked up any faults
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Just to make sure. Is the car using 4 quarts per 4000 or 1 quart per 4000?
  • estyle77estyle77 Posts: 2
    yup it needs approx 4 quart oil semisynthetic 10/40 in total for 4000 miles.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Lot of oil! Make sure you keep the oil topped up to the full mark on the stick and moniter the oil level frequently.
  • kym28kym28 Posts: 5
    I put gas in my 02 Accord and it will start but then the lights on the dash will come on then it cuts off and sometimes it shakes a little before cutting off. It only happens right after I put gas in what could be wrong?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    You could have an ignition switch going out on you (electrical part). There may have been a recall on it. Check it out.
  • kym28kym28 Posts: 5
    Thanks will check it out.
  • tbloomtbloom Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Accord that has the side curtain airbags. My SRS indicator light is staying on. I've checked the seat belts tensioners and they seem fine. Any ideas?
  • zbxzbx Posts: 30
    I have identical (intermittent) problem with my 2002 Accord. For a temporary fix (i.e. I don't know how to fix it either) I pull the door side of back of the passenger seat towards drivers seat.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Below is a link on how to reset the SRS light. Good luck
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Check with your Honda dealer. There may be a free fix for the srs light. Any light package in the seat will cause mine to come on.
  • No, that's a great deal, I paid about $50 more for the same stuff to be done last year. I hit 150k so i did the seals too, but i did the seals for the FIRST time at 150k, but it might be more about age rather than mileage, not sure which. (mine is a 98) but, since it takes lots of work to acess the timming belt, and no extra parts to be removed to replace the seals, go ahead and get them done. The issue with the starting could be several things, and you should ask the mechanic who is replacing all the belts and seals, just ask and see if they will check for free. I had to replace a FOAM seal in the fuel recycling port thing (simply, it is a valve that resupplies the engine with unburned fuel to fully burn the fuel. this was stuck open for me, so no new fuel would be supplied to the engine and old fuel (which could not be supplied) was getting recirculated back in, causing sputtering. BUT , this was once it was running. Therefore, I would say it might be the solenoid in the starter. You can just replace that, but a whole starter is $79 at pep boys or autozone and gaurnteed for the life of the car under your ownership. the whole starter costs $47 more, but you get the 47 refunded when you give old part back. The starter is not just the problem, but giving you a heads up for when the starter starts to fail in the next few years. my guess, sparkplugs, or something with ignition (not starter). best of luck!
  • catylatic converter, this is the reason for the light, almost all accords have a bat cat these days, the rattle in exhaust is a dead give away, pep boys or autozone is 179 ish for a exact oem replacement. try new spark plugs for the engine cut off, and there is a FOAM valve that can get stuck open, which supplys engine with unburned fuel. Thus, your running on vapors until new fuel slowly creeps past valve.
  • I have a clicking prob now with 166k miles and its NOT the cv joints, I had the honda dealer check a week ago (actually they said the cv joints are in great shape for their age). I have a broken left front stabilizer link, which they recommended to replace both. $90 per part through dealer, but should cost MUCH less elsewhere. It clicks when turning under 45mph and accelerating from a stop nomatter what acceleration. I have drivin the car to a max several times in this condition, but I finally have enough money to replace, so its not vital, just important, and you should do it now if you have the money. labor and parts PER side is $119 at dealer, but should again be much less through anyone else, hope this solves it for you.
  • pablo9pablo9 Posts: 29
    THere IS a recall on the ignition switch for the 6th gens. It includes some civics, too. Call your dealer, provide your VIN, and they should be able to take care of it.
  • dharg1970dharg1970 Posts: 3
    In the case of my ignition switch, it had already been replaced under a previous recall for the ignition switch. The dealer said they would only replace it once.The symptoms started up sometime over 93K miles but wouldn't replicate for the dealer and most other shops. I had checked the Honda site and there weren't any recalls other than the one that had already replaced the ignition switch.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I was under the impression that recalls were forever. In other words, Honda would be responsible for fixing the issue, no matter how many times it happened.
  • 2hondaonr2hondaonr Posts: 1
    I am trying to eliminate cigarette smoke smell from A/C.

    Can anyome tell me where Air -intake for AC is located??

    Also Any Other ideas for eliminating odor
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Change the cabin filter?
  • I have notice a number of messages describing engine stalls at various speeds with no regard to weather conditions. I have a 98 V6 Accord. and I am experiencing this problem as explained by kbain in his message #1258. For me this started about 2 years ago at about 150,000 miles. I have taken it to the 2 seperate Honda dealers a total of 3 time but like the other bloggers the problem does not replicate for the dealer. I also had the ignition replace twice and that has had no effect on the problem. I had one service manager say it was hairline cracks in the fuel injectors that as the engine heats up these expand and cause the shutdown. I have a problem with this explanation, first if this was the cause and the car stalls and I then have to wait a minute or up to five minutes for the car to restart why wouldn't the car just stall again two miles down the road when the engine gets hot again. In my experience and I should mention that I drive 50 miles each way to work that with this problem of engine stalls it stalls once and thats it for the rest of the drive. Only rarely does it stall more than once a trip. I do notice the it stalls more frequently in the heat of the afternoon drive than the morning commute but it does happen sometimes in the morning.

    I am no mechanic but I did notice an article (Edmunds Tech Center) Injector Perfection that seem to me that it could be a sensor problem.

    I would like to know has anybody been able to solve their stalling problem. This is frustrating, time consuming and not to mention dangerous.
  • leppertleppert Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 2000 Accord LX but it does not have the keyless entry system. Got a quote from Honda for $600 for installation with fobs. Any suggestions for getting it done cheaper? Thanks.
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Posts: 266
    My 99 Accord with 59k runs fine and has been maintained accordingly. Twice in the last 2 months my car has just died out at a red light. The second time was yesterday. Put it in neutral and it started right up with no problem. If this continues, I'll have to have a mechanic look into it. What could be the cause? As others have experienced, my car probably won't replicate this symptom when I take it in for a diagnoses.
  • I took my 98 Accord LX (4 cyl-auto) in to the dealership a few weeks ago to replace the window regulator motor (driver's side). When I got back in the car the check engine light was on. It was not on when I took it in. I was able to reset the light but recently it came back on after filling up with gas and won't turn back off. It blinks once when trying to reset it with the trip reset method. Should I hold the dealership responsible? I've read several places that the EGR valve could be the issue but I had both oxygen sensors and the catalytic converter replaced less than two years ago.

    Also, how do you change the bulbs for the odometer/trip display and the clock? Someone told me the dash has to be removed. They have not worked since I bought the car and now the lights on the gear shift are out as well. Is that a bulb too?

    Finally, it has a little over 200,000 miles on it. When I reach certain speeds it kind of hesitates and I have to accel for it to go into gear or let off the gas for a second or two. When it does this and goes into the next gear it kinda clunks which I have been told happens with the kind of miles that is on it. Could the hesitation and clunking be a sign that I should have the transmission flushed? I don't know what the previous owner did with it so it could be non-Honda fluid in there.
  • It could be the main relay switch. The main relay switch is known to have bad soldering inside and as the car goes through heating/cooling cycles, the joints get cracks in them causing sporadic connections. The main relay is what activates the fuel pump, so you'll get a crank, but no gas. It's a very common issue (happened on mine too). Solution is to either buy the $40 part for replacement (it's user replace-able under the driver side dash) or pulling it out, opening it up and re-soldering any bad joints. I did the latter option and haven't had any issues in a few years.

    Bad Relay Info
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Changed my spark plugs for the first time at 90k. Couple of suggestions/observations. My plugs needed changing and the car runs smoother on start up and more responsively w/ the new plugs. I used the NGK platinum plugs just like the oem plugs so I will not have to change them again for awhile. I always use anti seize when I replace plugs. The rear most bank of plugs seemed to show slightly more discoloration and were harder to turn than the front bank plugs,so I suggest you check a rear bank plug to ascertain condition and tightness. I used a 10mm socket to remove a bracket to facilitate change out of the plug nearest the firewall,on the passenger side. Difficult to get the plug tube to clear as you remove it. Glad I checked/changed mine earlier than the 105k spec. I was quoted $171 for the plugs at the dealer parts counter. I paid $68 at Auto Zone for the very same plugs. Hope this helps.
  • srx2870srx2870 Posts: 16
    hi, i had a 2002 honda accord LX which run perfectly for almost a year, recently i found out the car slightly shaking/trembling when running on a perfectly flat surface road. Can any expert help me explain why this is happening? its something wrong with the tire or the suspension/shock absorber? Thank You very much :cry:
  • henry88henry88 Posts: 2
    As I boosted my Accord which hadn't been driven for almost a year, I got the click sound the but the engine wouldn't start. The car was running fine the time I drove it. What should I look into for a car that's been sitting in the garage for about a year? Thanks in advance.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Charge/change the battery
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