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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • 1998 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe. In the last two weeks, on two
    > different occasions, I go to start my car and it begins to turn over
    > but never fully kicks off. The next day I am able to start it up with
    > no problems. I have taken it to Honda and a local mechanic and neither
    > can find a problem. I don't want to fix something that might not be
    > broken, but I also don't want a car that is unreliable and could leave
    > me stranded. Has anyone else ever experienced this? :confuse:
  • The link below covers a lot of intermittent starting problems. Hope this helps.
  • The link below covers a lot of intermittent starting problems. Hope this helps.
  • Jennifer, I'm not a mechanic, but if two people couldn't find anything, then maybe it was just flooded or something. Before starting I would depress the accelerator about half way for a sec and then release it. Don't give any more gas while starting. Did you ask them if they checked the fuel filter? It's a '98 so when is the last time the spark plugs were checked or replaced? Have you had the timing belt replaced yet? I believe that's at 105,000 miles or so (and expensive and they change the water pump simultaneously...that's prolly not it anyway), but check your manual for the mileage. In the meantime try not to drive at night or very far and see if it happens again. If it does, they need to take a closer look. Without the engine light on or any codes...I'm wondering if you got some bad gas with condensation water in it. Go to a different gas station and run a tank of super, and after that use the middle price gas. If the '98 model is fuel injection, then buy some injector cleaner and dump it in the tank with your next fill-up and FLOOR IT on an on ramp when there is no traffic. Hold the pedal down (safety first) till you get up to speed limit for a good injector flush. Just some ideas...hope it helps. BTW always keep your tank at least half full. JoeBird55
  • Thanks - this is a great website. It sounds like it might be a moisture problem.


    * Engine cranks but won't start when it rains.
    * Signs of moisture on the ignition wire.
    * Shutoff the car and come back a couple hours later will start.
    * see humid.html for details.
  • Thanks for the suggestion bird, i will give it a shot - it can't hurt anyway. i think it might be a moisture issue.
  • I travelled out of country for few weeks, decided to take out the battery for the duration. After replacing it back, my car stereo is asking for code . Please can you help? my chasis no is : 1HGCG5659WA067144 (Honda Accord)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,591
    Your owner's manual or the dealer, those are your only recourse.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Nirandego,

    Open the glove box and check on the inner side of its door for the numbers. They should be pasted right there. Good luck, Bird55
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    The number is the glove compartment is a serial number of
    the radio.
    The dealer will need this number to get the radio code.
    Older models don't have the number in the box.
    The radio may have to be taken out to get the serial #.
  • Okeedokee...I didn't know what year his Accord was. Mine is an '01 and it was in the glove box. Thx..Bird55
  • Hi,

    I just took a right turn on state st and I am suddenly seeing , Battery light + Brake Light + 4 Door light + trunk light on and they are continuously staying on. car running on and I can stop engine and restart and drive the car...

    I checked doors and handbrake and trunk none of those are such that the panel light for them should lighten up.

    Can somone throw some light on this issue ? is this an indication of something ?

    Honda accord 2000, 4 Dr, V6, 3.0 L Car model...130000 Miles and recently changed timing belt and water pump 2/3 months back(5000miles)
  • First thing I'd do is check the battery.
  • You were right, I searched on internet and found it was 90% alternator than to do with individual car parts :D
    so i took myself out of bed early in the morning went to autozone who then made me go to another of their branch :( but when I asked the guy he said , brake fluid or brake rotor may have an issue and door lock switch may have broken and he could have that inspected but I asked him again do u think it is alternator ? then he checked and it was showing 12.6 and diminishing , he confirmed it is alternator..
    bought one for $187 and got it immeditely replaced from a mechanic autozone guy recommended + $60 but Autozone took my old one back so -$25 and I am done by 10:30 am and I have no more unnecessary lights in panel but mechanic dropped some transmission fluid and asked me to change it

    I don't know if I could do it myself-transmission fluid but surely alternator was the issue.

  • Let me try to make a long story short. The other night I was going to change out the rotors and pads on the front disc brakes of my 99 accord lx 4cyl. I noticed that the lugs were kind of warm and the caliper was pretty warm as well, it had been sitting for about 1 hour or maybe a little less. I didn't think much about it. Well I got the new rotors installed along with the pads took it for a test drive and everything seemed fine. Well tonight I was out driving it I noticed a smell I didn't know what it was. When I got back to the house it was the front brakes. The lug nuts were so hot you couldn't touch them for a second with out getting burned. The rim felt fine as well as the tire. I called a friend and he told me jacking the car up and spin the tire and have someone stop and try to spin the tire right after they release the brake to make sure the caliper wasn't catching or holding. I did that and it spun like a champ. So I don't think it's the calipers catching. He mentioned something about a check valve when you push in the piston on the rotor. He said if you do it to quickly that it does something with that check valve. Do Hondas have that check valve? His next advice was to bleed the brakes and see if that check valve would reset itself. Have you guys heard of that? What else do you think could be causing the problem? Thanks for any help
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Has your brake fluid ever been changed? My guess is after a fair amount of braking, the water absorbed into the fluid over time starts to boil. When the fluid starts to boil, it expands causing the calliper to close on the brake disk, over heating everything. After the car has been sitting, the fluid has cooled, the calliper releases again, and the wheel will spin freely. If your brake fluid has not been changed in the past 3 years, I would try that first. Good luck
  • Would it be ok if I bled just the front 2 brakes?
  • This may have been already discussed before so my apologies... I've got a 2002 Accord 5 speed with 148K miles. The front pads and rotors are the original so I never changed them. I changed the rear pads at 65K and turned the rotors , however.
    When driving on the highway I get this squeaking noise coming from the right wheel on the passenger side. It starts sometimes when I am going downhill between 40 - 65 mph. Once I hit the brakes, the noise goers away. Is this a symptom of worn brake pads or is it something else?

    Thanks for any comments.
  • If you hear grinding/squeaking when you are not applying the brakes, and it goes away when you apply them, your pads need changing. This is the warning sound for needing replacement.

    Went through this in my '96 back in 2003. Got 131k on my front pads. You beat me!

    Must be a lot of highway, eh?
  • Yes [thegraduate], the squeaking noise comes when the brakes are not applied. I was just wondering why the brake pads wearing sensor make the noise when the brakes are not engaged???. I thought I'd hear the squeaking if I apply the brakes instead.

    Yes 148K miles with the original front pads is amazing (knock on wood), I've got to thank my lucky stars for that! and Yes, lots of highway driving.

    Thanks a lot.
  • I guess because it wants you to get them replaced NOW! :shades:

    How they work
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well, unfortunately you shouldn't wait until you hear the squeaking/grinding noise, particularly with that kind of mileage on the pads. Don't be surprised if they tell you the rotor's now also need replaced. If you didn't bleed the brake fluid every 2-3 years (to get the crud and moisture out of the calipers)since you got it, it might even need a set of calipers as well.....else they'll bind up and wear your next set of pads quickly, and overheat/warp your rotors.

    If I was buying your car without knowing any service history, I'd replace everything (the calipers, rotors, and pads) and be done with it. Those things are all relatively cheap, particularly if you do it yourself.
  • WOW [kiawah] you scared the living S!%&# out of me ...:) I did change the brake fluid at 90 K miles on April 2006. Honda recommends changing it every 3 years regardless of mileage. So I guess I have 9 months to go!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    This is not rocket science stuff. Basically three major parts (rotor that rotates with the tire/hub, caliper that sits over the rotor shaped like a U, and a set of brake pads that the caliper squeezes against the rotor.

    The rotors can warp with heat, causing pulsation. If the brake pads wear down to metal, then they can get scratched and ruined. Some people cut off the top layer of metal with a lathe, but that makes them thinner and more prone to warpage. They are cheap, so the cost for new approaches the labor to I just replace them.

    The calipers, without brake fluid changes, get crud and moisture in them, and when the piston is pushed back in (to make room for the thicker new brake pad), the piston begins to bind internally, and the brake pads then don't 'release', so they rub continually against the rotor, it starts to overheat and then warp. You'll also smell the brake pad heat. The pads will wear out quickly, and the braking capability reduces significantly.

    All three of these parts are relatively cheap to replace, and my view is if at all in doubt....just replace them. With 150K miles, I'd personally just spend a couple hundred bucks and replace everything. You'll have great smooth braking capabilities, and won't have to worry about anything for a couple years. To me, it's just not worth the hassle..... to not do it right the first time.
  • [kiawah] I definitely agree with you on what you said, and I don't like to cut corners myself when it comes to car maintenance. I know the car has tons of miles and I am planning to keep it for 3 years if it survives the harsh winters of the east coast. Let me ask you 2 simple dumb questions, so take it easy on me :)
    #1: The front rotors and pads are the original since I bought the car so there is 148K miles on them. If the front rotors could be machined when I put the new pads, should I turn the rotors OR should I *still* replace the rotors?
    #2: Is it necessary to go to the dealer for this type of work so they can use Honda parts or using after market parts would be just as good?

    many thanks to everyone ..
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I personally would never anymore cut a rotor down, because they will have less metal and warp easier, and the cost to replace with new may be close to equivalent. Many years ago I'd have stuff cut down, but the cost of parts has dropped and the cost of labor has risen, so it pretty much doesn't make sense (IMO) to cut. Different people will have different opinions, so price it out and make your own decision.

    It is not necessary to go to a dealer for this, brake work is common maintenance that any shop can and will do. I've done it myself for years, but since you're asking I don't sense you feel handy.

    I've always bought replacement parts at local chain auto chains (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc), and never have had a problem. Here again, some people feel the dealer parts are superior and pay that premium, that's another personal decision. I buy dealer parts only when it's a specific part not carried by the chains,'s transmission fluid or radiator coolant. We've got over a million miles on our vehicles over the years.
  • My check engine light came on around the same time my car started acting up. At first I would go to get in and start it and it would take a couple tries to start or I would have to wait an hour or two. It progressed to shutting of on my while i was driving, sometimes it would start and sometimes not. The craziest thing is on the hwy one time it shut of while driving then just came back on! Car shop said it needed a catalytic converter and fuel injector so i purchased. The same day i picked it up it died again so i brought it back they said it needed an egr valve...I just replaced it and the check engine light is back on. please help? someone mentioned ignition tumbler?

    It also kinda of jolts or shudders...when in gears 1-3
  • I swear this happened but can cannot duplicate (and don;t want to now). 02 accord 70K

    Yesterday, I accidently hit the power window switch on the rear driver side window. I heard like a thump - loud enough for me to look back (I was parked) but not too loud -just loud enough to surprise me. Realizing what I did, I just tried to get it up again. The window would not go up. Tried it again, it went up halfway, then stopped (the motor sounded fine). I played with it a little, then it went all the way up, then on its own, came done 3 inches (with the motor working - did not just fall), even though I did not press the button. Happened a few times like this. I swear. Eventually I got it up, where I left it.

    Today, I felt brave and tried to duplicate it. Worked perfectly several times. PERFECT. All the other windows worked fine and the motors sound fine.

    I have tape on it so I don't hit it. Others think I am crazy, but I figure something is going. Any ideas.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I don't know if this applies to your car, but check this out.
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