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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • You may be correct that your axle(s) are ready to fall off. A bad CV joint can create a lot of vibration and noise. They usually start off as making a clicking noise when turning corners, but I'm guessing yours are far beyond that.

    It's something you want to have looked at ASAP before one fails and leaves you stranded.

  • Thanks for the input. I was thinking the cv joints as well but it never made the "clicking" noise that im familiar with. Thats what's so perplexing. I think I'll have my mechanic replace those first since it's somewhat inexpensive. Thanks again for the input.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Aside from the mechanical,consider a "quiet" set of tires next time. I got some Goodyear Assurance Comfortreads and they quieted and smoothed the ride of my 02 V. Lost some handling and about 1-1.5 mpg vs. the oem Michelins but at least I am not being "beaten" anymore.
  • My '98 Accord Coupe, bought new, with 125K miles, began to get very poor gas mileage a few months ago, about 10 mpg or less. The dealer did major tune up, then put it on computer which showed the fuel mixture and everything else that it read to be just right. There are no fuel leaks, no smoke, no skips or hesitations, no dysfunctional performance. Dealer sent computer readout to Honda engineers in California. They had no solution or solutions other than to suggest that my driving habits must have changed--which is untrue. After that, the dealer gave up, saying there is nothing more they can do. An independent mechanic tried replacing the oxygen sensor, to no avail.
    Now no one has any suggestion except to marvel at the mystery. Can anyone help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Quite mysterious. If I were in your shoes, I'd consider putting the car on a dynamometer at say a really good tuning shop, one that modifies cars, changes fuel maps, re-flashes ECUs etc. This issue may be way over the dealer's head and it needs a real tech to fish it out.

    The laws of physics dictates that either you are not burning all the fuel that goes into the engine, that it is leaking out, or that your combustion process is very weak, mis-timed or somehow completely out of whack. I can't imagine your catalytic converter is very happy about this either.

    Or, if you want to be the true scientist, let someone else drive your car and calculate their gas mileage. This will eliminate you as the problem. (or find you guilty as charged) :P

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  • veruca108:
    With flashing D4 I reached home and did not use car from 17:00 to next day 11:00. But when I started the next day, D4 stopped flashing. Car appeared to work normally but I drove rather cautiously, driving such that gear shifts smoothly. However CEL light was on. I took it to one repairer, but they could not communicate with the computer. Since I did not hear any loud boom or any extreme jerky shifting (and that's wat I told this repairer), they said not to worry about CEL. And I started using car with CEL on. But I noticed that the car would shift quite jerkily when it is cold. After it warms up nicely, it would shift normally (kind of).

    After about a week, I began to think if transmission failed at inopportune time, it would be great pain. So I took the car to the transmission place, who look up codes for free. They found P0700 and P0780. P0780 means, there's a need for transmission replacement and upshift many not happen. Now I was sure that I needed transmission replacement.

    While searching online I came across a site that said that 2000 accords have transmission problems and if you contacted Honda they may cover you by something called as good will repair or extended warranty. I contacted Honda, they asked me to get the car diagnosed at a Honda dealership. I paid US$104 just to pull out codes. Now the extended warranty works for earlier of the following: 7 years since the in-service date of car or 109000miles (instead of 100000miles). My car is in its 8th year(i am the third owner), but has 96666 miles on it. So I did not qualify for extended warranty. Honda remanufactured tranny and replacing the bad tranny altogether would cost about $3200 at a honda dealership. However, the remfg tranny will have 3 year or 36000 mile whichever is earlier warranty on it.

    The dealrship guy was extrememly nice and helpful. He talked to Honda. And American Honda agreed to pay 60% of the cost. Which would leave me with about $1500 to pay for transmission, which is a pretty good deal.

    Further, I had bought warranty of Guardian Warranty Crop(GWC) on my tranny when I first bought the car. This is good for 1 year or14,500 miles. Honda dealrship guy contacted GWC. And they were initially reluctant to honor. They asked me to leave the car with dealership for their inspector to check if there was a really problem with tranny. I rented car from Honda dealership for $35/day unlimited mileage. Because I don't have another car and I wanted to have my independent car instead of being dependent on someone else for a ride. GWC sent their inspector/adjuster and concluded that tranny needed replacemnt. They had asked Honda dealrship to look for a used tranny. Dlrship found an 80000 mile tranny with 31 day warranty (which is usual and compare it with 3 years of Honda remfg tranny).

    Then the Honda dearlship guy talked to GWC about Honda's offer. GWC decided to take up part of expenditure (because the used tranny was costing them about 1700 dollars, while with Honda offer they had to take up little less than that).

    In the end, I had pay about $159.00 dollars for replacment of Honda re- manufactured tranny.

    However, here's the kicker, either GWC decided to pay full of total expenditure minus Honda's share, or probably the Honda guy miscalculated, but in the end I had to pay $0.00 for the entire transmission replacement.

    What I did have to pay were car rental, and diagnostic test fees.

    My biggest thanks to Honda dearlship guy, who did all the talking and communicating with both Honda and GWC, second thanks to Honda for standing by their product and third to GWC, who agreed to honor their warranty (which I did not think they would do, considering I have only 8 days left before their warranty expires) and in the end thanks to God, the almighty. :)

    Merry Christmas!

    Hope this helps to all.

    I am going to repost Honda goodwill warranty stuff as a separate msg, too!
  • I'd ask the tech to look at your eye valve. I had to get a new on bc I was getting 13 mpg and smelling gas strongly when I would be aroud my car and not at a gas station. Turns out it was the eye valve, it was clogged beyond cleaning
  • ....i believe what you're experiencing is a worn hub(s?) assembly, and the sound is from the bearings in that assy that have channeled a new groove in the race of the worn bearing...this is a very common noise in most vehicles when this occurs
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    what's an eye valve? :confuse:

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  • One other thing I would check is the tires. If they are cupped, they can make alot of noise and vibration.

  • Would it also be over the head of the " Honda engineers at the factory in California who designed that engine" which is where the flak catcher at the dealer said he sent the readout of the computer and from which I got no suggestions?

    Catylytic converter had been checked and is okay. There is no sign or smell of gasoline under the hood or under the car.

    Where would I look for a "real tech" or a really good tuning shop.

    Also, someone else driving my car could eliminate my driving style as a variable but I don't believe anyone could get the 23-28 mpg I got consistently for the first 9.5 years I drove it.

    Thanks for your help. punchout
  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    According to the manual, there are two bulbs on each side, is one of them for the low beam and the other for the high beam, or is one filament in both bulbs for the low beam, with another filament for the high beam? Are there two fuses, one for each set of bulbs?
  • I also have a 1998 Honda Accord and I am also having problems with the key light that goes on while driving and the the door locks make a noise like I'm unlocking the door and then the car shuts off.So as you can see this can be very dangerous. I am having the key not work at first sometimes and this doesnt happen everytime I take it out for a drive.
    Can someone please tell me what the problem is.My father said to switch keys and that could be the problem.I did as he said and the problem continued.
  • lrholrho Posts: 1
    On my 2001 LX V6 Accord "Check" and "TSC" lights started coming on simultaneously recently. To be exact, "check" is followed by "TSC" but interval is barely noticeable, less than a second. If I switch off the car and turn on again, the "TSC" light is gone. "Check" stays on for 3 trips and then goes off. For some time the car drives with no lights and then the story repeats. I've read codes, it is P0401, ie insufficient EGR flow. It maybe clogging indeed but does not make sense to me as 1) I live in California where gas is supposed to be clean enough to cause clogging 8 mm diam port; 2) I use regular plus gas and 3) "TCS" light comes on along with "check", none of these lights come on alone. It shouldn't happen with EGR port clogged according to Honda's service bulletin. Also, I noticed that they come on almost exactly at the same time since I start driving a COLD car (eg in the morning or after work) as if something warms up, tries to open (close) and fails. It may point out at EGR flow. I've replaced EGR valve, the car ran ok for 350 miles and then story with the lights repeated.
    My car used to have so called "8/80" warranty for the EGR system, but I have driven over 100K now, so I have to beg Honda to do job on the allegedly clogged port under their goodwill program or pay out of my pocket. In any case I need to have my car inspected by a dealer. I'm reluctant to do that as I fear a dealer may find number of problems, and I have no way to figure out if they are real.
    The car runs as if nothing is happening. Could it be, in your opinion or knowledge, some kind of computer or communication problem and are there ways to find it out? Thanks
  • Hello,
    I do not have a solution for your problem. but I am going to take this opportunity to share my experience which is pretty similar (only I feel:)

    My car Honda Accord 2000 EX v6 3.0. Miles driven - 129000 miles.. all maintenance was done timely - alternator, timing belt, water pump has also been changed 5-10000 miles before.

    I drove car from (8AM)Chicago to Piegon forge, TN (5PM)- my first stop was at seymore,IN around 12:30PM and after that continuous drive till Pigeon forge, TN @ 5PM. when I reached I could not find my hotel so I decided to park car infront of a shop! after 5-10 minutes of walk, I came back to car tried to start the car it did not start, tried to start car many times for 10-15 minutes it did not start,it just felt it will start and but did not continue, after a long struggle it finally started drove 10-15Feet and stopped again..tried again this time I could drive till hotel 1000Feet away. stopped at hotel and again same problem, finally it started but I pressed accelarator pedal so that engine does not stop( don't know if this is right)

    (I remember I had put BP gas full tank somewhere after seymore...)

    when the car finally started at hotel, the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WO?ULD COME ON- but now the car would start on the first attempt itself.

    I took the car to 2-3 miles far - autozone and he gave some codes P0301 - P0310 - telling me misfiring issue. He also gave Lucas bottle $5 which I put completely in GAS tank and drove away to some place 20 miles away (CHECK ENGINE LIGHT still ON) then after 2 hours I returned and started the car the Check Engine light did not come on and never after that...I cleared the other Maintenance required light using pressing the button and ignition..

    I faced same issue after 2 days at some mall in pigeon forge, somehow felt that engine oild temp. was not coming down even if the car is not started, it was like at level less than 50% on the oil temp gauge. Also while driving car in any gear the engine RPMs never went into RED zone.

    I still don't know what was the issue for engine light on, was it gas can cap or lucas cleared all issues or there is still a problem.

    Also I found on Indiana interstate highway roads there is lot of sound from car - I wonder if it was due to road quality. Sound also came while going to TN.

    Any suggestions are welcome, I have already decided to do 3000 miles oil change but this time at honda(due next week)

    Thanks for reading my story!
  • This is exactly what happens to my car. I got an EGR valve and it didn't do it for over 2 months but on my way back to Louisiana from Arkansas I shut off on the interstate! The first 2 times I had to pull over and restart it but the third time it happened when I pulled onto the shoulder the car just restarted on it's own before I even came to a stop so curiously I pressed the gas and it went...? I just got back on the interstate. This is a very dangerous problem and I've taken to the shop twice the first time I bought a new catalytic converter, fuel injector, gas cap, and fuel filter(it shut off on my way home from the shop). I took it back and got the EGR valve and it went 2 months without dying but now it has started again...?
  • I have this problem with my 99' Honda Accord and i was wondering if any one can fix it. For some reason when i put my gear shift to D4 and then look at my dashboard it's suppose to lit up right? But for some reason it doesn't light up but all the other light up like the park,reverse, D3,2,1 but only the D4 doesnt light up. Can anyone help me fix this problem? Thanks
  • jdcampjdcamp Posts: 3
    I'm looking to replace the headlights on my 1998 Accord as they are seeming a bit dim. I'm trying to determine if anyone has much experience with these Xenon, LED, Halo, etc... replacements. Right now I'm leaning toward a simple OEM replacement, but want to make an informed decision. I'm not worried much about appearance. I just want some lights that are bright enough to light up deer standing just off the road.
  • jdcampjdcamp Posts: 3
    I was just looking at replacement bulbs for my 1998 accord and someone was selling a set of 4 bulbs where they described 2 as the high beams and 2 as the low beams.
  • I'm interested in a 2002 Honda Accord EX Coupe that has 140,000. I know that's about 20K per year if it was purchased late in 2001. That's more miles than it should have, but I know Hondas are so reliable I'm considering it. What major maintenance should I make sure it's had other than standard oil changes and check ups? I've inquired about the timing belt and whether it has been replaced. Is there anything else? Would any reccommend I stay away from this car because of its mileage? Also, I found it for just under $6K, almost $3K below blue book.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    I'ts not really "below" book. $6,000 is private party retail pricing for a V6, and actually about $1,000 too much for a 4 cylinder car. The high mileage requires at least a $1,500--1800 reduction in price from listed book value.

    The car might be fine and have some life left in it, but at 140K all parts of the car are vulnerable to failure. Best to have it thoroughly checked out. Look for oil leaks, signs of exhaust system failure and shock/strut failure (typical at this mileage) and be sure to play with all the knobs and switches...ALL of them!

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  • hi quikjab,

    I have 2000 accord EX v6, just would like to share my 2 cents,

    I have driven it upto 129000 miles till today, major maintenance to me after 100000 miles
    1. alternator
    2. timing belt + water pump
    3. tires - all 4 replaced
    4. replace brake pads - all 4
    5. problems while turning so drive shaft or greasing work was done.
    6. Please drive the car at night and see if all dash board lights turn on properly and you can see readings.
    7. getting hold of manual and reading it before hand would be good idea in order to learn what big maintenance is due in future or near future..

    just my experience but I am sure seniors here will guide properly..

    Thank you for reading..and good luck
  • I love my '98 coupe. Shortcomings are it is hard to see out of, toward rear, and mine suddenly started getting less than 10 mpg at about 120K miles with no help from Honda or any mechanic so far. That is why I posted on this site. EG its not for sale. I would go with the other advice and get it checked out by independent mechanic, should cost about $100 and include compression test. My transmission went out just beyond warranty (50K?) but Honda replaced it at no cost to me. so that particular one might be vulnerable. Good luck. PS I still need help with my mysterious 10 mpg. Dr Punchout.
  • cmykalcmykal Posts: 2
    I own a 2002 Honda Accord V6 coupe which I've had for the past 2 years. The engine started vibrating about 3 days ago. I had the spark plugs replaced, the engine was still vibrating. Is this caused by bad sensors, manufacturer ignition system problem (p1399), or bad motor mounts?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    You might want to have the codes read to look for a "misfire" trouble code. Generally speaking, if the engine is idling slowly in neutral, bad motor mounts wouldn't show up very much---unless they were just about broken---in which case you'd feel this while driving.

    So I'm guessing that you have perhaps a misfire, or a vacuum leak that is messing up the fuel mixture?

    See if a quick scan will reveal anything.

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  • cmykalcmykal Posts: 2
    I recently had my vehicle tested under one of those code scanners, the scanner read one code which was p1399 which stated "manufacturer ignition system"? Like you said, it could be a misfire or vacuum leak. If by chance it's a misfire or vacuum leak, how much a repair job like this would cost?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Gee hard to say, Could be something quite simple really. Probably most of the cost is the diagnostic time.

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  • The drivers seat on my 2dr has excessive movement that is comming from above the upper half of the seat track. I have about 1.5 inches of movement when pushed at the headrest. The sliding track has the proper clearance but I do not know the cause? I did notice that the movement is from the area of the seat track that the seat motors are attached to. Any help would be appreciated
  • zakimanzakiman Posts: 71
    I'd like to get some input on two questions before I start repair:

    The dealer told me that my front engine mount is starting to crack. I changed the brakes and rotors on Nov 2008 at a honda independent shop and they did not mention anything about the front enfgine mount.
    I looked at the mount and did not see any cracks. Does anyone know how to diagnose this problem and how to I know if I need to replace the mount.?
    Does the crack appears more in the rubber piece or should I look somewhere else?

    Also they mentioned the brake pads sensors ( on the front ) were installed upside down. They said the sensor should be on the top not the bottom. Is this a big deal if it is the case? I assume the independent honda sho installed them correctly, well maybe I shouldn't assume anything :-)

    I greatly appreciate any feedback,
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I have only a limited time to reply, so all I'll say is that engine mounts and brakes aren't two things that would normally be looked over at the same time, so the fact that the people who did your brakes didn't see it is a moot point in my personal opinion.

    Also, engine mounts do give out over time. I imagine one of our illustrious edmunds posters would detail the procedure for checking them.

    Best regards,
    the grad
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