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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Has anyone replaced the headlights on these? Does it come of by disconnecting the electrical connectors and removing visible screws.......or you have to take the bumper facia off?

  • i have a 2000 accord se w/88,000 on it. and it started to kind of shift hard my check engine light came on so i got it checked out at auto zone and it came back with this....
    VTEC system malfunction
    1 low oil/pressure
    2 blocked oil passage
    3 failed vct oil control valve
    ran motor flush through it, cant remember the brand, and changed the oil. do i give it a day or so and if it still seems to be shifting hard do i go on to 3? and if so what do i do?
  • smith764smith764 Posts: 1
    Having changed the headlight assembly on a '98 Accord coupe, I only had to remove the screws and the electircal connectors.

    Edit: I was able to get it replaced without removing the bumper, but it was a bit of a pain as it had to be gently worked in there.

  • rhubertyrhuberty Posts: 18

    You should also check your negative battery cable as a remote possiblility. Over time the cable or ground can become bad. A small screw attaches the cable to the vehicle. If the ground is loose a bump in the road or vibration can cause hesitation and failure. I would pull apart the ground and make sure everything is clean. Might even want to start with a new cable and screw. Bad ground or loose cables can create all kinds of issues especially with engine death and starting. I would think your shop would have looked into this but you never know. Good luck.

  • When it is very cold outside (unusual in South Florida), my 1999 Accord sort of sputters when it starts and runs very rough for the first few minutes. It sounds like it will stall out, and the check engine light goes on. After a day (and warmer weather), the engine starts normally, and the check engine light goes away on its own. This has happened to me 3 times this winter. The check engine light is off for now, but I am afraid it will come back with the cold weather.

    Has anyone had a similar problem?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    If possible, while the Check Engine light is on, take it to AutoZone and let them read the CEL code to see what the problem is.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Drain and fill the transmission fluid using only Honda brand ATF. Drive a week and repeat. Drive another week and repeat. Only about 1/3 of the ATF drains each time. Good luck.
  • dan158dan158 Posts: 2
    Thanks. Turned out to be related to that... the ignition pigtail inside the column. Starts and runs perfectly now-no stalling and starts every time. thanks.
  • My car is an automatic and everytime it shifts out of the first gear it clunks. My car is a little bit over 130,000 miles. I've had the Honda dealership look at it they said that the transmission is going out. I was wondering if anyone knew how much it should be to get a rebuilt transmission put in and also if anyone from the MN Twin Cities area knew any good, reliable auto repair shops.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Is this a V6 or a 4-cylinder model?
  • Sometimes my Honda seems to idle poorly, hesitate on acceleration or experience hard starting. Why is that?

    All parts of the U.S. have winter/summer blended fuel, which is needed to prevent cold or hot start problems. Winter fuels have higher volatility to compensate for cold dense air. Conversely, summer fuels have lower volatility and are less prone to "percolate."

    If winter blended fuel is used in warm or hot weather, the higher temperature may cause the fuel to "percolate" within the fuel system.

    Summer fuel may not vaporize adequately in cool weather.

    These situations are normally localized and last only during a brief period of severe changes in climatic conditions. Normally, no vehicle repairs are needed for these situations.

    Buy fuel from high-volume, major name-brand stations.
  • what is a torque converter, i am told that is what the problem is
    what do i do? can i replace it?
  • i took in my honda accord (1999, ex, 2 door coupe, 140000kms, automatic) to a canadian tire on april 11th, they found quite a few issues with it but the biggest problem i had was after parking it for the winter with quite a few problems already. I started it up and the RPM's shot to the max, as if i had the pedal to the floor. Now after fixing it and 1500$ candian later, i got it back today and after 20 mins of driving it i had problems again. It is just dying on me, i will be accelerating down the street and its like some one slams it into Neutral for 10 seconds and then slamms it back in gear for 10 seconds. It continues to do this for approx. 20 mins then stops. Then 20 mins later it starts doing it again. What could this be, the said that the belts are oily cause of a powersteering leak, But i am thinking this is transmission? thankyou
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    4-cylinder or V6?
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Last Saturday, I replaced the cabin filters in my 2001 Accord that I just bought with 121K miles. I find it amazing that Honda has made the replacement of these filters so complicated.

    The knee plastic piece under the glove box has one screw deeply hidden in center console. I don't understand why they did not put a metal pressed on clips so you can pull this piece. The filters looked like they have never been replaced.

  • hacksaw3hacksaw3 Posts: 1
    I have a 92 Accord LX 4 Cylinder with 180,000 plus miles. The automatic transaxle doesn't shift until high RPM, then it shifts really rough. When slowing down to stop or turn a corner it downshifts really rough also. Are there any vacuum lines or solenoids that control the shifting on this transmission? If so, where are they located & can they be serviced by the average shade tree mechanic?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Are there any vacuum lines or solenoids that control the shifting on this transmission? If so, where are they located & can they be serviced by the average shade tree mechanic?

    Yes, their are a pair of shift solenoids, and a pair of lock-up solenoids. They look like cylinders mounted to plates, bolted to the transmission. They have screens on them that can be cleaned. Has the fluid been changed recently? What does it look like? This link may help you, it has pictures of the solenoids, and directions for cleaning and inspecting them. Good luck.
  • therivertheriver Posts: 70
    I recently had my 02 with 75K miles in for normal oil change. The dealer said the antifreeze was in need of change and that I should change the timing belt (prevention only on both - no issues). I said that the owners manual said 100K for the timing belt and something similar for the antifreeze. He said that because the car was 7 years old the mileage does not apply and should be changed. The owners manual does not say 100K or 7 years so I think he is lying. Any thoughts
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    If you have the Timing Belt changed they also change out the water pump and have to change the antifreeze and that is included in the TB change charge. Don't pay seperately/twice for the antifreeze.
  • Honda recommends that you change the timing belt at 105,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first. Ditto with the changing out the anti-freeze. The dealer was telling the truth.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    I bought a 2001 LX 4 cylinder with 121K miles last month and knowing that the timing belt had not been replaced, I took it to the dealer and had them replace the belt. He did not replace the water pump as he said there was no leak and it looked fine.

    I had them save the belt so I can inspect and see the cracks and glazing. I was shocked as how good the belt looked. I feel you can easily go your 105K miles and ignore the 7 years.
  • therivertheriver Posts: 70
    thanks - will do my next oil change, but won't freak out about it. Next oil cahnge probably about 80 K anyway
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    I have a tick tick noise in the 121K mile Accord that I bought. When I bought it, I figured it was a lifter noise, and thought I would have the Honda dealer adjust the lifters while they were doing the T/B replacement.

    The dealer adjusted the lifters and said the noise is called piston slap that is caused by ovalized pistons. He said some Honda engines develop this and will go another 200K without ever having an issue, He said it is just a noise that I need to put up with.

    I bought this Accord for my 70 mile daily work commute. It drives really nice and it goes about 535 miles between fill ups. The infamous lower seat bulge is there as it was in my old 94 and my wife's 2008 Accord that we just sold. I will get into the back seat and fix that bulge one of these days.

  • Mine is doing the very same thing. What was your resolution for this problem?
  • mrpenskemrpenske Posts: 2

    I have a 1999 4cyl 4dr Honda accord with 100K+ miles on it. Today it was hard to start (started on the third try) and then idled without a problem. after it warmed up put it in reverse and it traveled back without touching the gas without a problem until I pressed the gas pedal - then it shuddered and stalled.

    the car still idles fine, and i can press the gas pedal gently to get it up above 3000rpm without a problem. but if i press the gas "normally" it will sputter out and stall in any gear (park, reverse, neutral, drive).

    I've had minor stalling problems in the past the came and went (maybe once a year or once in 2 years) but they would never repeat. this problem now won't go away.

    weather was rainy and in the 60's today if that matters, anyone have ideas where I should start troubleshooting?

    thanks for your help
  • beetoy61beetoy61 Posts: 8
    my problem is about the jerking and hesitation of the engine, even though you floor the accelerator the engine hesitates and the idle is too low up to the point of stalling, the engine check is light on, what is the problem. pls. help
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    the engine check is light on, what is the problem

    I suggest going to Autozone or some other parts store, and see if they can read the codes for you. That might at least narrow the possibilities.
  • lucas123lucas123 Posts: 7
    Ok, I don't know what the hell is wrong with my car...I've changed plugs, battery, cables, alternator, emission parts, etc but the other day I was sitting in traffic on the way to work when my car just shut off...couldn't start it for 10 minutes...the car just didn't have enough juice to kick over. It's happened a few times in the past 6 months, I know it's telling me something but my mechanic can't tell since it happens so infrequently. Sound like a starter/solenoid issue? It's a 1999 accord V6 with 165,000. I've done lots of work to it, so it runs very, very well. When my car shuts off, the there are no signs...just happens. I can only think of the starter/solenoid being the problem...anything else to look for? Thanks much. Trying to avoid buying another car.
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