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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I'm guessing it's the electrical part of the ignition switch. If you start the car, but don't let the key go all the way back to II position will it keep running? That points to the ignition switch. There may have been a recall on the switch for your car. I would check that out first. You may get it fixed free of charge, if there was a recall.
  • mldd2003mldd2003 Posts: 5
    What happened to your car?

    I have a 1999 Accord, was told and shown that the upper control arms/ball joints
    are loosen, I saw it was not more than 1/2 (up and down). hope to learn from your experience. Thanks!
  • mldd2003mldd2003 Posts: 5
    I have a 1999 Accord, was told and shown that the upper control arms/ball joints
    are loosen, I saw it was not more than 1/2 (up and down). hope to learn from your experience. Thanks!
  • aztrazaztraz Posts: 3
    For the past 2 months I've been having a problem with oil in the radiator. It all started when I got small punctures in two radiator hoses and the car ran hot really badly. I've replaced all the hoses, even the top and bottom ones. Now it's just a matter of replacing the head and/or gasket I suppose.

    My main question is this: What are the odds replacing the head and gasket will do the job? How likely is it I have a cracked block instead? I've seen other forums where other people have had the same problem, and 9 times out of 10 it's a bad head and gasket, but it's that 1 scenario where it's a cracked block that worries me. Is it worth it try to replace the head and gasket and hope for the best, or am I taking to big of a risk on the off chance my engine's block is damaged?

    Specs: 99 Accord LX, 4 cyl, 2.3L, ULEV V-TECH, auto trans.

    Thank you in advance for any advice.
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Posts: 419
    What are the costs involved?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    Here's an interesting video that might help you:


    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • aztrazaztraz Posts: 3
    Anyone know the timing sequence or have the diagram for a 99 Honda Accord LX 4 cyl 2.3 L ULEV VTECH? I'm getting those repairs I mentioned earlier done and that's the only missing piece to the puzzle.

    Can't find the Honda repair manual or the Chilton/Haynes books in stock anywhere except online and I need the info a lot sooner than when they can be shipped.
  • aztrazaztraz Posts: 3
    I found a new head for less than 350, I got the head gasket set for 100, and my labor guy is willing to do the job off the clock for 400 bucks. Total with oil, new filter and coolant, about 875.

    I might not even need the head, so if I have to return it that'll save me about 275 (350 minus 75 dollar restock fee to send it back)
  • thepupthepup Posts: 1
    When I start up either cold or hot engine the transmission has difficulty changing into 2nd gear and also 3rd. The jerk is strong and at times. Any ideas other than a new transmission I could look at....
  • lucas123lucas123 Posts: 7
    I own a '98 honda accord and the ride has been getting a little rougher with more rattling over bumps recently. I replaced the front with stock shocks from a friend's accord (who totaled the car) about 4 years ago. The back were replaced about 3.5 years ago with monroe sensatrac. I live in Los angeles and frequently drive on the winding sunset blvd. Would replacing my shocks/struts with monroe vs. KyB Gr-2 make much difference? Or do I need to get better struts? Tokico? (I know those can be pricer) Also, agility handling is not as crisp as before (it is 10 years old). What about sway bars? Or changing the sway bar bushing kit? My tires are not too bad right now (yokoh....brands), so I'm not worried about that. I'm trying to keep my car for another 1-2 years, but was wondering what the best thing would be to do to keep good agility and suspension. I don't mind if it's a little stiff like my friend's Acura Tsx....that handles really well...thanks.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    What brand of ATF are you using and when was it last drained and Filled?
  • smaduressmadures Posts: 1
    So it seems that I was trying to lower the rear window with the driverside window control and my son was trying to raise the window with the controll on the backseat door at the same time. The window slipped most of the way in the window slot. I can hear the motor trying to go up or down when I push the power window button but the window doesn't move. Does anyone know what might be the problem and how to fix it?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Sounds like your regulator cable broke. Bad thing is, I don't think you can buy just the part that's broken. They sell the regulator as a whole, if not the motor too, which means big bucks. Pushing both switches at the same time, should have just canceled the switches out electrically. It should not have forced the window in both directions. Maybe the cable was about to go anyway.
  • artnjartnj Posts: 4
    Repair shop said they would charge $400 but I could probably get it way cheaper and they would put it in. Where to buy that is reputable that would have it?

    This is for a 2000 Accord SE 4 cyclinder
  • bman12bman12 Posts: 1
    Probably going to need a new regulator for the window, usually around 125.00 with a new motor. Pretty simple swap, about an hour.
  • I just recently installed a new after market cd player into my 2002 Honda Accord lx and i got the cd player working great but there is this red wire and it controlles my dash lights and now they dont work. I have no idea where to put this red wire what do I do? Can someone help me please?
  • I have a 99 accord and recently the factory installed alarm goes off whenever. The battery in the remote went dead so was using the key to unlock. I have also checked to make sure the wire to the security system in the door was connected. It is. I have taken out the horn relay for now, but would like to know if the security system can be disconnected and if so, can I do it or does it have to been done at a dealership? Thanks for any help you can give.
  • don_ncdon_nc Posts: 9
    I have a 99 ex v6 with 117k miles and had a rebuilt tran installed about 5 yr and 60k mi ago. It has started shifting similiar to yours (feels like it goes into nuetral between 1st and 2nd shifts for about 2 to 3 seconds and then shifting hard), but only in the morning and for the first couple miles. I'm thinking about having it looked at and at least getting the tran fluid flushed. Keep us posted on what you find
  • You would have to give some more information on when the car alarm goes off, what are the circumstances. It keeps going on and off for no reason? It could be haunted . .
  • It goes off for no reason, in the middle of the day, in the middle of the night. I have also unhooked the battery and hooked it back up.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Don't flush it. Just have the dealer drain and refill with only Honda ATF.
  • don_ncdon_nc Posts: 9
    I checked my records and the tran fluid was changed about 20k miles ago when the 100k service was done. The dealership called this morning and said a new trans was needed (again). Ugghhh!!

    Has anyone else had to replace the transmission twice and if so, how much did Honda cover ? Original price is $2900 and the dealer offered to reduce it to $2200.

  • marvin6marvin6 Posts: 72
    I have a 2000 accord lx 4 cyl auto that I bought new. I have maintained it very well and have had no problems other than one motor mount and some serious transmission issues. There was a class action suit against honda for transmissions that I fell under and I have had three rebuilt transmissions put into my car - all done under warranty by honda . Each rebuilt transmission has clunked when shifting - to include the current transmission. I have simply learned to live with that. My concern is the loss of power. I live in northern alabama and with the original transmission my car almost never downshifted. Since the original transmission, each rebuilt transmission in my car has been the same - my car shifts at every little hill. On the interstate I cannot use cruise control as I will be going 4400 rpm at 70 mph on any hill. I prevent that by anticipating hills and running to about 80 before the hill. With the original transmission, my car ran about 2800 rpm at 70 mph. With each replacement transmission it runs about 2500 rpm at 70 mph and thus it shifts all the time. With the lower rpm I would expect better gas mileage, but I have lost about 4 mpg with the rebuilt transmissions. I have done all the maintenance and put new plugs in at 50k and 100k and they did not alter the mileage. Any suggestions?
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Sorry,Don. There were transmissions that were replaced free by Honda in the 98-2002 model years. Honda has a list of the serial numbers that were deemed defective and replaceable free of charge. Was your first transmission replaced by Honda for free?
  • don_ncdon_nc Posts: 9

    Yes, it was replaced free about 4 to 5 years ago. I guess I should have sold the car earlier so I wouldn't have to deal with transmission problems again.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    I'd be tempted to try a drain and refill of the ATF. Otherwise, you could take it to another dealer and shop price on a replacement trans. Maybe then go back to your current dealer to see if they would better the price. Note that an above poster got 3 free transmissions. So negotiation will save you some money.
  • marvin6marvin6 Posts: 72
    I now have 113k on my car and my transmission is still under warranty. Each rebuilt transmission comes with a 3/36 warranty. The only problem is - in my opinion - is that they are inferior to the original transmissions. In fact, the dealership actually put a rebuilt honda transmission in my car and the it was worse than the one that was being removed so I had to wait a couple more days for another transmission to come in from Honda. In retrospect, I should have gotten rid of the car when the transmission was first replaced, but we live and learn.
  • I have a 1999 Accord, with the 4 cyl. engine, appox. 120,000. Engine was rebuilt around 98K, with timing belt, fluids, belts, water pump. It has been oil changed since new with regular oil. I wanted to know what the advantages are to switch to synthetic oil, and if there's a particular way to switch, i.e engine flush, etc. Thanks!
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    If synthetic oil is not recommended for your engine ( and I know it is NOT for this engine), switching to synthetic oil just increases your oil change expense and makes you feel better.

    Regular oil is just fine for your car. Just stick to 3K mile oil change interval. I have heard that switching to synthetic oil in an older engine could actually cause oil leak/seepage around seals/gaskets/piston rings and increase your oil consumption. That is due to superior flow characterisitic of synthetic oil.

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    My last Accord (92) had to have the oil pan removed, and the oil pick-up screen for the oil pump cleaned out, even though I changed the oil every 3,000 miles. This was just after 100k miles, using Castrol GTX 5w-20 oil. I have switched to Mobil 1 on my 03 Accord thinking it will prevent sludge build up in the engine. The car started out on conventional oil, then switched to Syntec, then to Mobil 1. The car now has 67k miles, and no oil leaks, or consumption issues.
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