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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • I also have a 1998 Accord V6, it has 198K miles on it, but I have never experienced the problems that u have mentioned. I would say have the Alternator checked out.
  • georgew1georgew1 Posts: 31
    The 1998 Accord had a recall on the ignition switch for what sounds like the very thing you are dealing with. Stalling intermittenly. Some have had the switch fail more than once. If you haven't had it done on the recall, that might be your problem.
    Any Honda dealer should have a record if it was replaced in the past.
    Worth a try to check it out.
    Good luck.
  • teddybearneilteddybearneil Posts: 15
    edited November 2011
    My 98 Accord has 196K miles on it and the Check Engine Light has been on since it was 180K miles. I got the Catalyctic converter changed, the light disappeared for a month or so and lit up again. From what I have read on the internet, there could be multiple parts and reasons for this problem and we could end up spending a **** load of money trying to fix this issue. Any one faced and fixed this problem?
  • beetoy61beetoy61 Posts: 8
    did you check your oxygen sensor,or the v-tech sensor,these parts are the reason for that annoying check engine.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    AutoZone will have the check-engine-light code read for free.
  • I did go to the Autozone the first time around and the print out only gives you ALL the POSSIBLE reasons for the problem apparently and as I mentioned, we would need to try fixing one by one and the bill could tote up to a grand eventually. For a 98 Accord with 198K miles on it..that is too much to spend I think..
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    My first instinct is the O2 sensor. I have a '96, and it is the only chronic problem; I'm on the 4th sensor in 6 years. I think it snacks on them. :shades:
  • kevman3kevman3 Posts: 30
    I would think its the O2 sensor as well, as I have changed a few. 198K, now thats a great run. Let us know when you go over 200.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I'm now at 211k, check engine light on on my '96, and once again it is an O2 sensor. Since I'm still averaging 27-30 MPG depending on driving style and route, I'm not spending the money to fix it right now.

    These are great cars!
  • beetoy61beetoy61 Posts: 8
    try the fuel pressure regulator,it might solve your problem,the part is 50 bucks and it's easy to do it.i hope this will help you.good luck.
  • It was the O2 Sensor. I got it changed just now and the CEL is gone!! It cost me just $ 150 bucks. While the Mechanic was test driving it, he noticed that the bearings were worn out and it was making a wheezing noise..actually it was always making that sound and I thought it was normal..had a few complaints when I was talking on the phone..but never thought it was a now I have to get the bearings changed.
  • does anyone know what code 1399 means. i know it is for the transmission, but it says propriety code.
  • I've taken my car to the dealer and thye hav etried to replace the multiplex units
    to solve the no dash instrument panel lights and that hasn't worked.

    Now, they think it must be in the electrical system.

    What do I do? '

  • puck1943puck1943 Posts: 3
    The rubber seal keeps dirt and water away from the caliper slide so the brakes will work properly. Like many contemporary disk brakes, the Accord has a single piston caliper and it works by allowing the caliper on the side opposite the piston to slide when applying the brake. You should rebuild the calper and apply a new seal (if you have good mechanical skills) or buy and install a rebuilt caliper. But don't delay because a rusted slide will not move and that will destroy the caliper, the pads and possibly overheat and warp the rotor.
  • jeanettebjeanetteb Posts: 3
    I have been told by the service dept that I should change ALL the fluids in my car (transmission, brake, power steering and coolant) due to the age of the vehicle even though it only has 14,000 miles and runs great. Does anyone have any feedback? I am a woman and am afraid that I may be taken advantage of. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it?" Can't they visually look at the fluids to see if they are dirty and need to be flushed??
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Believe it or not...They are right. Those mentioned fluids age and loose their property after 2-3 years.

    Leaving them in your car will BREAK your car. Exceptionally low mile car like yours with no fluid flush in 9 years is more likley to fail than a similar car with 80K miles with good maintenance record.

    Find a decent independent garage to do the work rather than going to the dealer.

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    While I've never changed the power steering fluid in the 15 years my car has been in existence, the other three should be changed, as jodar says. Especially the brake fluid; it will absorb water over time, whether or not it has many miles of use on it. Water will break down the seals and eventually cause a master-cylinder failure (a $300-$400 repair). I'd change them in order of brake, trans, coolant, and power-steering, if you'd like to have them done at seperate intervals to prevent having one big bill, or maybe you can ask your mechanic how much they'll cost individually to be changed, and then ask if they'll cut you a deal to do several at a time.

    Just a thought, from a guy with three Accords ('96, '02, '06) in his driveway. :)
  • jeanettebjeanetteb Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info...I live in AZ and the dealership is doing the transmission, brake and power steering flush for $299, changing the oil for $30 and doing a coolant flush for $ all for around $400 and incl a tire rotation. Does this seem reasonable?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I honestly don't know how good of a price that is; personally it seems high, but I can't know that for sure. If it were me, I'd talk to a friend or three, maybe some coworkers, or a relative, find out from them what mechanic they may have used, and is reputable. Then call those mechanics, see how much they'll charge to do those changes.

    An example; my dealer wanted $850 to change the timing belt and water pump on my '96 Accord. I called two mechanics my grandparents have used and been happy with, including one who did body-work after I was rear-ended. One quoted me $720, the other quoted $478. I spent $478 and am very happy. :)

    A side-note; make sure you have the transmission fluid drained-and-filled, not flushed. Because you can't change all of the fluid at one time simply by drain-and-fill (much of the fluid is left in the transmission itself), it takes "drain, fill, drive a short distance" being done three times or so to get a good full transmission fluid change. Having it power-flushed can cause you more problems than they're worth; dislodging small particles that could be an expensive headache later on.
  • brig7brig7 Posts: 5
    Well i just bought 2001 Honda accord ex manual with 168k miles. The car runs perfect (when someone that knows how to drive manual drives it). I have driven it for about 3weeks now and I had oil filled 1/8 from the max line. A day ago I checked and the oil was half way under the minimum mark.
    I was wondering if my bad driving had an effect on it.
    (i checked for leaks and it's clean, I also checked the exhaust has very little black in it)
  • julianfjulianf Posts: 3
    There are a couple of possibilities I can think off - best guesses really. 1 is the potential that the head gasket may leak allowing a small loss of oil to be forced into the cooling / water system. Unlikely but if your radiator has oil appearing in the water then it suggests this. BUT you would normal see a loss of power and your temperarue would be running higher. The next suggestion is the valve stem seals beginning to wear. The would allow oil to burn off while th engine is cold but as the temp rises the re-seal so the evidence in the exhaust is burned off. When they are more worn then you would see smoke from cold starts and under acceloration. I suggest you have someone hold a clean while rag over the exhaust and cold start the engine... see if you are geting oil into the exhaust at 2000rpm then once the engine is warm test again and compare. Normally rings would burn oil constantly - but vlave stem seals are more likely to re-seal at running temp. Hope it helps...good luck
  • bajajoesbajajoes Posts: 48
    edited July 2010
    I have a 2001 Accord with manual transmission and it also uses more oil
    than is considered normal. I have had Honda and my own Independent mechanic check it out and they both say that they can find nothing wrong without tearing the
    engine apart. My Accord runs fine other than the oil use and presently has 130,000
    miles. I have noticed that the lower I keep the rpm's(5th rather han 4th gear) the less oil is used. My personal mechanic's guess is that one cylinder is responsible.
    I should get a pressure check on all of them and see if that will discover more
    but it runs so great that I haven't had it done. Regardless if one cylinder is bad
    I won't spend the money because it would take a decade or more to recover the
    relatively small amount of money spent on oil. :shades:
    I should note it has been this way for over 50,000 miles without other issues.
  • rslanzarslanza Posts: 1
    I have a 98 v-6. Just replaced the ignition switch a year ago for the 2nd time, new destributer a year ago also. Car just started wanting to not start here and there, but then about 30 secounds later starts and runs like a top. Any suggestions what could be causing it to do this. It may not do it for 10 starts then do it 2 or 3 times in a row. Thanks for any help

  • demoman61demoman61 Posts: 2
    can any one help me with the electrical wiring. i put a steering column in a 1998 accord. now i need to by pass the security. im using car as race car and dont need security. if i can locate the relay i can bypass.
  • demoman61demoman61 Posts: 2
    could be crank sensor. just put one on my 98
  • I think I need a Brake Light Switch for my 2001 Accord V6.
    I did the diagnostic that was in the manual and this is what is wrong.
    How much should this cost approximately at an independent shop? At the dealer?
  • Where is the physical location of this connector? I've looked all over the engine comparment but nothing looks like a cannister with hoses and valve. Sure appreciate the help.

  • KettyKetty Posts: 14
    Hello, I have a 2002 Accord Special Edition with 84,000 miles and just had the radiator replaced for $840 - Our family has had an 89 & 2000 Civic, 87 Accord, 2000 CRV - we pass them around to college students. None of them needed a radiator replaced and the 87 Accord and 89 Civic had almost 200,000 miles. Has anyone else with the model had the same issue? The dealer told me it wasn't a defect but he did say it was leaking at the seam. I was thinking of turning this car over to a family member and getting another Honda but now I am rethinking that idea. I already replaced the ball joints shortly after the warrently ran out - those are two big repairs and the car has a lot less miles than the other Honda's in our family.
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