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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Different strokes, as they say. :) I prefer to let my car to get into as high a gear possible when puttering around the burbs -- it makes coasting much easier, using less of my right foot to keep it moving.
  • My father was telling me about a sticky center console in his LX. When I rode in the car the other night I could not believe it! My parents never drink or eat in their cars and it feels as if someone has spilled a large coke all over the center console and into the pocket. Part of the steering wheel is also beginning to feel sticky.

    My brother has gone to the junk yard to look for another center console, but all are sticky! :(
  • To whom it may concern:
    i have a 2000 Honda Accord EX and i have a problem with the car...Since last year when the car run hot and i try to start it,it wouldn't start but when the car cools down it would start...So replaced the EGR valve and sprayed it with fuel injector cleaner and that seem to work...but this year i got the same problem and i sprayed some fuel injector cleaner but this time it doesn't seem to be working. What do you think i should do?
  • You might want to check your fuel pump relay. Hondas have been known to have these things go bad, making hot starts difficult.
  • lll3lll3 Posts: 10
    Honda 2000 Accord Paint/Clearcoat Peeling and nasty. Anyone have any info/suggestions on how to address.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Nothing you can do except sand it down and repaint that entire panel, or the entire car if need be. There's no way to touch it up or patch it, sorry.

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  • lll3lll3 Posts: 10
    The Malfunction Indicator Lamp recently lit up on the dashboard of my 2000 Accord EX. According to owner's manual, check for loose or missing fuel cap and wait for 3 trips to see if it goes out. Unfortunately, it hasn't. Anyone have any additional suggestions.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    You should have the codes read to give you further hints. Very often, it can be something simple like loose or leaking vacuum lines in the Evaporative Emissions Control system. Or the cap could be bad.

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  • upengan78upengan78 Posts: 21
    edited November 2010
    I own accord 2000 EX v6 and had same issue when in TN for vacation. I took it to auto parts and asked them to check reading. He found some numbers related to engine. At first the guy suggested . So we bought and used it. Then after driving for 15-20 miles and 2-3 engine stop/start in between suddenly at one start that Malfunction light didn't come on and never came back on later. You can try adv auto parts free checkup.
  • I replaced the gas cap on my '98 LX, 3 days later it was gone. Hasn't come back.
  • lll3lll3 Posts: 10
    follow up= I had the codes pulled.
    1) P1167-Manufacturer Control Fuel air metering
    2) P0700-Transmission control system malfunction
    3) P1739-Manufacturer control transmission
    Does anyone have any comments on whether ...
    1) these codes necessitate a trip to the dealer for specific Honda repair/parts?
    2) any idea as to estimate on repair cost.
    [note: I usually add Red Line fuel injector to the gas each tank but ran out the past two fill-ups]
    Any help is appreciated. Thanks to All.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I usually add Red Line fuel injector to the gas each tank

  • lll3lll3 Posts: 10
    to keep the engine running clean...
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Good, regular unleaded top-tier gasoline with detergents in it will do that. I suspect the additives may have messed up your car.

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  • silviodsilviod Posts: 13
    edited December 2010
    I have a 2001 accord and i would like to know how the heck to i adjust the headlights?
    I replaced the bulbs with HID KIT and i just need to adjust the left light just a touch.

    I read on here that tranny is an issue. Yes some had problems and it were the ones made in japan. The ones made in the states are great. Mine was made in the states and i have no issue. Do a drain and fill with HOnda Syntech every 40000km and you will be fine. DO NOT add any additives, its bad for the car.

    This statement came from honda!

    Please send any ideas to

    thank you
  • sistarsistar Posts: 19
    edited December 2010
    1998 accord 5-speed with <150k and half-tank gas. Was going down hill about 45 and saw yellow signal, so I braked hard and the car shuddered, jerked then died. Tried at least a dozen times to re-start - it started for a millisecond then jerked and died, even with attempts to floor the pedal on ignition. Finally by some miracle I was able to catch it in action and let it shoots to redline. Afterwards, i did pedal to metal a dozen more times, now the car runs like new as if nothing ever happened.
    I thought I need to replace clogged fuel filter, but learned in my model there is none to replace.
    Please help me analyze this puzzle, so the freaked-out wife can have her peace back. Thank you and merry xmas!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    You might do a computer scan to see if anything was recorded as a trouble code. Your symptoms are really too vague to identify anything specific. Sometimes old cars just "burp" and that's it

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  • This will be easy question for anyone who owns a 6th generation Accord. My 2001 four cyl EX sedan has rubber bushings called cushions in the top radiator mounts. They are easily visible with the hood open. Plastic posts project up from each side of the radiator through these cushions or grommets, which are held to the front cross member in metal brackets.

    On my car (126,000miles), the posts can slop around in the cushion holes, allowing the radiator to bounce fore and aft by 2 or 3 mm. Doesn't sound like much, but it makes a noticeable thump.

    When I removed one of the cushions, I noted that the hole in it shows no wear, and is in perfect condition, so it hasn't been hogged out. When I bought a pair of new cushions from a dealer, they were just as large, and also allowed the fore-aft slop on acceleration and braking.

    Is this the way they are supposed to be? Could someone take a look the next time they have the hood open. I would just construct tighter cushions myself, but worry that they might be too restrictive and break off the radiator top mounting posts.

  • My interior rear view mirror keeps coming off and while it is easily reattched it is loose and the
    view is shaky. I would like it to stay in place.
    I'd like to know if it requires an adhesive to hold it? How did it come from the factory?
    Anyone? :shades:
  • Are you sure its not a cracked front motor mount that is causing the thump? This is one of the major issues that plagues our generation of Accords (eg. clogged EGR port, transmission, crappy alternator, etc.)

    Mine has a bit of play too FWIW.
  • How does one decide whether to replace or rebuild an engine? Assume the car will be kept indefiniotely as I am very happy with it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    edited February 2011
    It rather depends on the condition of the engine you have. Sometimes, it's just too expensive to rebuild one, if say you have a flat crankshaft or egg-shaped cylinders.

    On the other hand, if all you need is an "overhaul", meaning replacing internal parts, re-machining the cylinder head and valves, but leaving the crankshaft stock size and not re-boring the cylinders, then it makes perfect sense to keep the engine you have.

    The most rational approach is to disassemble the engine and "mic it" (measure all the critical parts) all out carefully and see what you have. Naturally this plan requires some pre-thought as to a backup plan. You also need to inspect it for cracks.

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  • IIF the present engine's internal condition is unknown and it has close to 200K on it is the cost/benefit anaysis still favorable or should that money be applied to a known replacement?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Again, I'd have to know the clearances in the cylinder bores and the measurements of the crankshaft throws to answer that.

    If you have to bore, and you have to re-machine the crankshaft and thus need oversize bearings and oversize pistons, that starts to get expensive.

    If you're asking which way to bet *without* examining the old engine at all, and you want an engine to run another 200K, then I'd get a new short block installed. Without VTEC, that's about $2500 bucks + at least 20 hours labor.

    So unless you go with a low miles used engine, you're looking at $5000 or so if a professional shop does a short block for you.

    If you "overhaul" the engine yourself in your garage, and only need to send the head out for machining, and you don't have to touch the bores or the crankshaft--just rings and bearings and gaskets----then you'd get away a lot cheaper.

    I suppose a shop could also do an overhaul for you for considerably less than $5000, since they wouldn't be boring or messing with the crank----but you know, when you open up an unknown engine, you have to be prepared for bad news.

    So what do you do when the shop calls and says "okay, your engine needs everything, it's all in pieces, what do you want to do?"

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  • I can get a replacement Long block for $2900 and an install for $750. I think I'll put the money in that rather than expend $$$$ checking out an existing one with close to 200K.
    What is your opinion of the prices I have been quoted? I really like the car and plan on keeeping it indefinitely. It is a Coupe, 4 cyl with MT and gets 33+mpg on fwy. 25 in town
  • I have written to the NHTSA and gotten a letter of approval to have a switch installed for the airbag in my '01 Accord to protect my very petite wife from injury from the airbag.
    She has been driving another car w/o airbags but its in sad shape so she will need to drive the Accord.
    I have been unable to find anyone to do this.
    Any suggesstions? I could use some help.
  • lll3lll3 Posts: 10
    2000 Honda Accord LX-Replaced clock light bulb about 6 weeks ago but it seems to go in and out at night so it's hard to read at times in the night. Clock works fine.
  • I know this is an old post, and I don't know how your situation turned out, but I've got the same problem, and I'm the wife! I was making duplicate keys for all of the cars, and the guy making the keys said he couldn't do one for the Aveo I just bought, but didn't say anything about the GMC truck or the Honda Accord. So I go out today to test them all and it's stuck. Same as your situation, my husband had to take his main key off of the key ring to get it close enough to turn the car over, but the key won't come out. So at least we won't have to pay for a towing bill. It has an anti-theft thing in there, so there is a key flashing on his dashboard. So I tried the suggestion of disconnecting the battery and it didn't work. Hopefully this won't be an expensive mistake, but I guess I'm going to pay for my stupidity. I think the man making the key should've known better.
  • johnd22johnd22 Posts: 1
    edited April 2011
    I had the exact same problem. I discovered it because my 1998 Honda Accord wouldn't shift out of park and i was stuck in a parking for 45 min until i discovered the shift lock release button which is hidden underneath the plastic rectangular ring that goes around the shift console. It's directly left about 3 inches from the shifter, again, underneath the plastic rectangular ring. You just use your key to depress the shift lock release and shift into neutral, start the car, then shift into drive. To fix the brake lights not coming i started by checking all the fuses; there are 3 fuse boxes(that i found) 1) left of the steering wheel between the door and the dashboard 2) Same place as the first but on the passenger side 3) under the hood close to the windshield on the passenger side. Supposedly the fuse for the brake lights is in the fuse box under the hood labeled "stop" on the case of the fuse box. All of my fuses were still in tact (burnt fuses will literally be burnt and the metal connection in the middle will be broken). The brake lights flashed when i unlocked the car and they also turned on when i turned the lights on so i knew the bulbs were good. I then moved to the brake light switch which is located under the dash, next to the brake pedal. You'll have to get up underneath the steering column and literally be on your back with your head next to the brake pedal. You'll notice the metal arm connected to the brake pedal comes in contact with a plastic cylinder about 1 inch in diameter, 3 inches long and that has a 1.5 inch metal bolt coming out it with a small button at the end of the bold that is depressed when the brake is in resting position. There should be some wires connected to the brake light switch. Unplug the wires and unscrew the brake light switch. I went to Auto Zone and had the switch tested and it did not conduct a charge so i bought a new one for $40, put it in and everything worked. So start with the fuses, then the bulbs, then the brake switch. After that you'll probably need to get a wiring diagram of your car and hunt down all the connections and check all the wiring. That's way out of my league and i would've just taken it to a mechanic after that.
  • wingman39wingman39 Posts: 2
    jimmy1943 I recently purchessed a 2000 Accord SE from my inlaws an i have the same problem on the passanger rear light panel did you ever receive any solutions to this problem
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