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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I have heard the rear brakes need changing before the front. Is anyone aware of that trend? How long on average after the rear do the front ones go out? Should I just replace brakes all the way around while I am at it? I may try tackling my first brake job ever this time around. What are the common pitfalls to pay special attention to? Should I go ahead and swap out the Brake fluid while down there?

    Yes, the rear brakes do wear faster than the front (on many 7th gen Accords). My rear brakes were changed at 47k miles, and the front were just changed at 60k miles. When you push the calliper piston back in (rear only) you have to turn it clockwise, while pushing. Then line up the groves in the piston with the tab on the inner pad backing plate (should be square with the calliper). There is a paste that comes with the oem pads, that is to be applied between the pad backing and the shims. This paste is supposed to keep the brakes from squealing. If the new pads don't come with shims, use the old ones. There are different opinions on wether or not you should have the rotors turned when replacing the pads. IMO if the brakes are working fine, and there are no deep grooves (1/8") in the rotor, I would not have them turned. It will only make the rotors thinner, and weaker. You just have to break the new pads in carefully. I have a link explaining this, if you want to read it.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    For what it's worth, I have had an 03 4-cylinder since 36000 miles and am now just under 59000. I had the front pads replaced at around 42000 a little over a year ago. I don't think the rear drums have been serviced yet and I haven't had any problems. I'm getting an intermittent squeal, but it isn't constant.

    I'm going to wait until 60k when I take it in for its check-up and have them check it along with my alignment and all that fun stuff. I'm not handy at all. I can change pads and filters that's about it.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I was wondering if sparks plugs are different. I read here somewhere, but can't find it again that a certain spark plug will give you aprox 5 hp throught all ranges, if this is true i would gladly pay double or triple for this, wouldn't eyeryone? , if it is also safe for the engine that is. Thanks for any responces. Charlie

    All any plug can do, is burn the gas injected into the cylinder. If the plug is not burning all the fuel, you will smell fuel coming out of the exhaust. As long as the oem plugs are in good condition, I don't see any other type of plug adding HP. A lot of people like to buy higher resistance plug wires, and not matching up the rest of the ignition system. The way I hear it, if the spark plug wires are stronger, they will only put more pressure on the coil and other ignition parts. I say keep everything OEM.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I don't think the rear drums have been serviced yet and I haven't had any problems.

    Sorry, but I was talking about rear disk brakes only. Should have made that clear, I guess. :blush: My old truck had rear drums, and at 60k miles they still looked brand new.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I'm sorry, I'm kind of dumb. I keep forgetting that you have an EX (SE?). Either way I haven't had the drums checked, I've heard that they're a B---- and a half to fix. Pardon my french. ;)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Yes, drum brakes have a lot more small parts, reassembly can get complicated, and are a dirty job compared to disks. The best way to make sure everything is put back together correctly, is to do one side at a time, so you can take a look at the other side for reference. Of course to do this, you have to jack up the entire rear end, and remove both wheels and drums.
  • I have a 2003 EX 4cyl. with 72K Miles. In the first snow storm of the year, my ABS light went on and my wheels would lock up, making my car just about undriveable. I was able to make it home and brought to my mechanic the next day. They replaced the calipers on my rear brakes, and the light went off. The next snow storm, the light went on again, and my wheels locked up. This time I had the car towed to my work parking lot. The next day, I drove the car and the light went off after about 5 monutes, and drives fine. My mechanic couldn't find anything else wrong. It sounds to me like a sensor problem when it snows, but I don't understand why the wheels are locking up? Has anyone experienced this??
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Can you describe what you mean by "my wheels locked up".

    Does that mean that while you were driving and then applied the brakes, that one or more of the wheels locked up and began to slide on the slippery surface, and if so, which wheel(s)?

    Or, do you mean, that the brakes applied themselves and locked all four wheels, preventing you from driving the car?

    Or, do you mean something totally different from those scenarios?
  • The light comes on before I apply the brakes. I'm not even 100% sure if it it the actual wheels that are locking, but when I apply the accelerator, the engine will rev, bu the car won't move, it'll just spin.. Thanks for replying
  • I have an squeal/grinding noise that appears to be coming from the pulley. Does anyone happen to know if it is possible to replace the belt tensioner pulley without having to R&R the tensioner assembly? Thank you.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Happened a couple times with my 03EXV6 for a few seconds.
    The car was stopped at a Stop sign. Applied the gas pedal gently, but no movement for a few seconds. I could feel the wheels spinning.
    The V6 has the TCS, and the TCS light didn't come on during
    that time.
    I noticed when that happened, the front wheel wells were filled
    with slushy snow on a slushy snow road.

    If the wheels are spinning, the brakes are not locked up.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I read several posts about how hard it was to change the air filter on the Gen 7 Accord so I was a bit leery about it. However, it didn't take that long nor was it that hard.

    I read about removing intake hoses, etc., but all I did was loosen the four screws holding down the air cleaner housing cover. I did have to pull on it toward the engine to get it up and out from under the frame but it wasn't that tough.

    This was on the I-4, the V6 might be harder.

    I also changed the cabin filter... that puppy sure gets dirty.
  • I didn't encounter any big problems changing the engine air filter on my V6. The only two things I'd recommend would be:

    1) Use a wrench instead of a screwdriver. The screw is made for either tool. I found that the screws needed a decent amount of force when cracking them loose for the first filter change. I tried using a screwdriver the first time and ended up almost stripping the tops of the screwdriver indentation off. A socket wrench made the job a lot easier.

    2) Use an extension from the wrench that will reach one or two screws that are deeper down in the bay. This is at least the case for V6 models... not sure about I4s.
  • f0rl0rnf0rl0rn Posts: 71
    Glad to hear you didn't have any problems. I have gotten into the Air Filter 3 times and each it was a pain. Maybe your arms are a little bigger than mine. It seems to take a good amount of force to push it towards the engine to remove it. It seems easier for me to remove the intake hoses.

    But next time I am in there I will try and see if there is an angle I am not seeing.

    Not to plug a product but if anyone has not ever used K&N, (or similar cleanable filter), they are worth it. Well, they are worth it if you plan on keeping the car until it dies. Just a little food for thought.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Use a wrench instead of a screwdriver.

    I agree. I saw the potential for disaster so I used a socket right away. They are on very tight so it takes some muscle to loosen them. It is good that they don't come out of the housing though. I hate trying to retrieve dropped screws/bolts. ;)

    The I4 has screws that are deep as well so I agree that you need an extension.

    And yes, it is a tight fit but if you really force it, you can get the housing out of the way.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Be careful with the air flow tube, when checking the air filter. I've checked the filter enough times, that the tube split next to the clamp on the throttle body.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    Thanks for starting this mini thread Tallman1. As I posted a few posts prior to your post, I'm planning on dealing with both the engine air filter and the cabin air filter myself. Did you grab your filters from by any chance? I had given a breakdown of what I was planning to order here:
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    I always have the new oem replacement AF at hand. I check about every 15k and,if needed,I just stick the new AF in. Minimizes the times I have to "open it up".
  • altair9altair9 Posts: 10
    Just changed my air filter on my 05 I4 EXL Navi. It took a fair amount of muscle to move the filter box towards the engine to clear the frame. I was afraid to damage anything, but managed to put the filter in. The cabin filter is a breeze. Bought both filters from Handa. Just 2 less things to get ripped off from the dealer in NYC.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Hi. I have a minor problem, more of an annoyance. I've been noticing that there is frost on the insides of my windows. Is there something that I can do about this or do I have to learn to start the car earlier? Does this mean that there is too much water, from ice on my shoes, in the car and it is re-freezing on the windows?

    I'm sure it's nothing, but I'm curious.
  • My bet would be the water from shoes. If your floor mats and/or carpeting is wet, the evaporating water has to go somewhere, and when the car isn't running, the first thing to get cold is the windows, so that's where the water is going to collect first.

    I've already taken the mats inside and placed them by my heating vents for the night. That did a good job of getting rid of all or at least most of the water.

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Thanks for the tip. I will try that. It really annoying as you can guess.
  • Hey all,

    This is my first post here, so please bare with me.

    The ploblem is with my 2005 2.2 i-cdti accord. Every now and then, when I get to about 3,000rpm, the engine looses power. It does not stop the engine, but the glow plug light comes on and starts flashing. When this happens the engine is limited to about 2100rpm, in all gears, and does not want to go any higher.

    The only way I can get it to run normally again, is to pull over, turn off the engine for a few minutes and restart. Once I do this, it runs ok, as long as I keep the RPM low.

    The thing is, it does not happen every day, so I am stumped for a cause.

    Has anyone had this problem, or related problem, and if so, what was the fix?

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Have you disconnected the battery recently?
  • Nope, never done that. It had been in my drive for about two weeks though without being started. But I really don't think that that would cause this. I work a month at a time out of the country, and have never had anything like this happen before, in almost two years!
  • Gees, I don't remember any other posts for an Accord diesel. Maybe it deserves it's own thread based on Accord diesel issues?

  • Good point, and good idea.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Did you grab your filters from by any chance?

    I did this time. HandA is a great place. The last time, I had a 15% off parts coupon from a Honda dealer so I bought stuff there. That was the one and only time I've seen that sort of coupon. :(
  • calpcalp Posts: 1
    Looking for someone who had a similar problem with change getting wedged in the back of the coin pocket at the top of the gear shift and wedging open the lid?
  • bugs22bugs22 Posts: 10
    I had a dime fall into a space at backside of the pocket in my 2006 Accord and it prevented the cover arm from pivoting. I tried to remove the rubber liner first and that didn't give me access....don't try it because it doesn't fit correctly now. After a couple of months I pried the dime out with two pieces of wire. Lid shuts fine now. I remember working at it a long time but with patience it's possible.
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