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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    My 2007 SE has paint from ??? on it

    Yes, a good polish will probably take it off. Probably no need to go nuts with something heavy-duty. A fine polish will probably do the trick.
  • I called American Honda today who told me no recall or anything else on the information display. Basically said I am SOL.
  • joltjolt Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Accord with 40000 miles.The engine light just came on,I recently had the right hand blinker go out.It took several hours to locate the problem.After 4 hours the Honda Dealership found a faulty blinker relay switch.Now 4 weeks later my light comes on.Anyone with any experience on the subject know what I might be getting into at the dealership when I take it in?Does this light cover anything that might be wrong ? Ty
  • Need help with the door lock - the automatic door locks work on all doors except the passenger this something that is easy to fix? rl :confuse:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The VERY FIRST thing you should do is go to AutoZone and have the code read for free. A dealer will charge $50-$75 most likely to simply diagnose the code. AutoZone diagnosed mine for free. An O'Reilly or Advance Auto will probably do the same thing. Get the code read first though, save your $$$ :shades:

    Good luck, and hopefully its nothing big. It's very possible that you simply didn't click the gas cap enough. I've done that before and gotten a Check Engine Light. After tightening it and driving a few more trips (maybe 100 miles over 3 or 4 cranks), it went off.
  • joltjolt Posts: 2
    Ty for your response.I will go this weekend.I really don,t want to go the dealership anymore.It took them 5 hours to find out why my blinker wasn,t working.I thought they could hook it up to the computer and find quicker than that.I live in California and smog laws are tough here,I don,t think it will pass with an engine light on.Thanks again
  • My car is slowly getting to that dreadful 100K mark. Before snow falls and mechanics freeze in their bays, I would like to complete this service. I was told that the best approach would be to get what is commonly known as the "Timing Belt Kit", which include the following : Mitsuboshi timing belt, an Aisin water pump w/ gasket, an Aisin hudraulic tension adjuster, a Koyo tensioner bearing, and a Koyo idler bearing. Also, I was informed that T-Belt Tension Adjuster and the regular "belt" should also be replaced. The parts all together come to around $425 + $300 labor.
    My questions are:
    1. Are there other parts that are generally replaced when doing the timing belt?
    2. Am I overdoing this?

    Your 2c are greatly appreciated.

    Saxon :shades:
  • Finally gave in and decided to fix the rust problem on the Rear sash's on my '03 Accord. $50 for the parts from Majestic Honda and $120 labor to install it from a private mechanic. half the price from going to the dealership.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 25,383
    sounds like you got all the pieces coverered, but not having done one myself, I suppose there may be something else to throw in!

    but to answer your question, no, you aren't overdoing it. Most of the small parts are pretty cheap, it is the labor that kills you. So, when it is apart, replace any wear item, gasket, seal, etc. that is either removed to get to the t belt, or exposed when it is all opened up.

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    When I went in 2 years ago to have the timing belt done in my 95 Accord 4-cyl they replaced the timing belt and water pump along with all other accessory belts. The generation that 95 was a part of had timing belts for 4-cylinder and timing chains for 6-cylinder models. The generation that your car, and my current vehicle for that matter, are switched. 6-cylinder models have the belt while 4-cylinder models have chains.

    Sorry about the little back story, about the cars, that you probably already knew. The $725 that you were quoted is about what I paid for at the dealer in my area.

    And no I don't think you're overdoing this because at 100k the timing belt is usually in need of replacement anyway. Doing it before winter is a good idea because it's done and you won't have to worry about it.

    Any of the more intelligent (ie. more mechanically inclined than I) and insightful posters please add to anything I've already said.
  • I have an 05 Accord. When the temperature drops below 45 degrees my windshield wipers stop working! Any suggestions on why this is happening?
  • As a matter of fact, so does my '05 CR-V. The Accord has 46,000 miles on it and the CR-V has over 100K. Is it something that the extended warranty will cover (on the Accord, as the CR-V is out of warranty)? Thanks.
  • cmartin411cmartin411 Atlanta, GAPosts: 42
    I have a 2006 EX V6 with about 49K miles. I washed my car this weekend and noticed the black gasket on the outside that surrounds the sunroof has turned white in most spots. I live in Metro Atlanta so I am sure the sun takes it's toll, but has this happened to anyone else's car? Is there a flexible paint that can be applied, or is replacing the only option?

    I guess there is always a black Sharpie. I think I would win some Redneck award if I used the Sharpie though.

  • Typically rubber stays black all of it's life, even when it's totally rotted and falling apart. I would suspect something is on the rubber, not the rubber turning white.

    Is it possible the gasket just has left over auto paste wax on it?

  • cmartin411cmartin411 Atlanta, GAPosts: 42
    Wax on it is a good point. It has been several months since I waxed it and have washed it a few times since then. I thought I was careful around the edges when I applied the wax, but perhaps not. I use the liquid Meguiars cleaner wax. I will try and clean it tonight.
  • On the rubber gaskets you can use a little mineral spirits and a clean cotton rag. Soak the rag lightly with the mineral spirits and ring it out into a small plastic cup or bowl. Then gently clean the rubber with the rag, turning it occasionally so you don't spread the old wax that you are trying to remove. Following the cleaning, use a new rag and apply some WD-40 to the rubber (spray the rag first). It works great to give it a clean, smooth finish with a touch of preserve to condition the rubber. Meguiars Cleaner Wax in the bottle is an easy wax to use, but I found that it doesn't last too long. If you wax often enough it is fine, but if you do it less often, try a good "yellow" paste wax. They have no cleaners, but last a lot longer than the other. Good luck.
  • cmartin411cmartin411 Atlanta, GAPosts: 42
    You are correct - the white residue must have been wax because it came right off when I wiped it. You guys were a great help. Thanks.
  • I have an 04 EX, 4cyl, manual, 97k miles. I've always used Mich's MXV & MXV4. I thought they were good tires. When it came time to switch I was look for a higher performance tire. My son's a mechanic at Firestone, he suggested Falken Ziex from Germany. I went for it. They have about 20k miles on them now and so far I love 'em. They have a max inflation of 45 lbs (I think). I run them at 42 lbs in the front. They are A/A rated tires, I think I paid half of what the Mich's were selling for but they are becoming very popular and I see that prices are climbing.
  • Mine went out also (04). Honda extended the warranty on this part to 100k. They evidently had a problem with it. They replaced mine for free.
    I also noticed improved sound quality with the new one. The stock subwoofer output was much stronger.
  • My 2003 Accord had been displaying a diagnostic trouble code P0420 - Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). I had the catalytic converter replaced to the tune of $1,000 only to have the malfunction indicator light come back on when the weather got cold again. A search by my mechanic on ALLDATA turned up a service bulletin (03-063) dated September 23, 2003. The check engine light is due to the ECM/PCM incorrectly interpreting sensor inputs and firing off the error code. The fix is to have the dealer update the ECM/PCM software using the Honda Interface Module. Had it done today for $93 (1 hr labor at the dealer).
  • Less than 10K. Start up first thing in morning with no problem then drive to gym -- runs a total of 8 mins. Come out of gym 1 hr later and doesn't want to start. Turns over but hesitates starting. Three to four attempts. The usual display lights come but once it starts, no indicator light to tell me what the problem is. Doesn't happen all the time. Night time temperature has been in mid-30-40s. Garage kept but not heated. Any suggestions are appreciated.
  • It's hit or miss. Honda's quality is no where near what it used to be. Honda is living off "word of mouth" and loyal customers from the past. If you go to many car complaint websites, you'll see that there are more Honda complaints compared to many other manufacturers. The previous generation (2003-2006) was probably one of the worst generations of Accords in years.

    Honda seriously needs to look at themselves in the mirror and go back to the way they used to be - or a certain Korean manufacturer, that also starts with the letter "H", will one day (if they havn't already) surpass them....
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The previous generation (2003-2006) was probably one of the worst generations of Accords in years.

    What makes you say that? That generation went to 2007, for the record...

    I think it was one of the best. It had a roomy interior without being a land-barge in exterior size. It was light for its class, making its engines feel like they produce more power than they did. The 4-cylinder models top 35 MPG on the highway at 75 MPH with no special effort to be miserly from the driver's standpoint, due-in part to being the first mainstream midsize sedan to offer 5-speed automatics across the board, at a time when Camry, Altima, etc still used 4-speeds on most models. The interior was absolutely the top of the class in quality, and ergnomically sound as well. Exterior design was a little more daring than the previous generations, but still bland enough as to be unoffensive to most. Early in the model run there were some bugs, but Honda stood by the product, replacing things and expanding warranty mileage into six figures for mileage, when they could've sat by and said "sorry, you've got 37,000 miles on your car - that'll be $xxx please."

    As a 2006 owner, I'm curious to know what makes it "the worst in years" to you. Not picking on you, just asking for a little more detail.
  • fw_manfw_man Posts: 18
    I'd like to chime in also on behalf of Honda.
    I am the owner of 2006 Accord VP. My biggest gripe for the car is upholstery. It attracts and keeps lint. Everything else is perfect.
    I have 106k on the car, just changed plugs, ATF, brake fluid, coolant, front rotors and tires.
    Other than that, only oil, filter changes per MM.

    The car has been absolutely trouble free, and still performs like new. It is quiet, responsive, fun to drive. Roomy inside. I have not seen the dealer since I bought the car. What more could I ask from Honda?
  • My biggest gripe is for the car is upholstery. It attracts and keeps lint.

    Amen to that. I have an 03 with the black interior and it always looks like a huge white dog with lots of hair jumped in and exploded. I've attempted to vacuum use the lint roller thingies and even that static gaurd stuff to no avail.

    Otherwise I've had it for 33k of its 69k miles and have had nary a problem. Routine maintenance is all I've done.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I dont' have that struggle with my cloth, but mine is an EX. I'm assuming it uses different fabric from the VP/LX/SE models.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The previous generation (2003-2006) was probably one of the worst generations of Accords in years.

    I would like to know what is wrong with my 03 Accord? That is not apparent to me. :confuse:
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Well, I guess it is my turn to join the crowd. Even if I wasn't extremely happy with my EX-L w/Navi, I4 manual (I am, BTW), I can't remember reading any wholesale complaints about this generation.

    There were some issues, as with all cars, but never to the point that the whole generation was a dog. :confuse:
  • Our 07 has the black interior also and the seats get full of hair as well. I put on a pair of rubber gloves, the type that doctors and emt's use, run the gloves in water and shake off the excess. Gloves only have to be damp. Now run the damp gloves down the seat back and front to back on the seat,making sure the gloves are always damp. Then vacuum the clumps of hair. :)
  • Thank you for the tip. I will have to try this.
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