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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    My 2006 EX V6 Coupe started to demonstrate some unusual behavior. Up to recently each time I started the car the outside temperature was visible, by default, instead of the odometer reading. If I wanted to see the odometer reading I had to scroll through the choices. Now, each time I start the car the odometer reading is there by default. I have to scroll through the choices to get the outside temperature. Is there a setting I inadvertently changed or did something fail?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    It was 65 degrees when it changed tones, and hasn't gone back despite being in 60 degree weather in Gulf Shores all weekend. Thanks anyway though. :)
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Now, each time I start the car the odometer reading is there by default.

    That's a new one on me. I wonder if there is a computer chip somewhere that has a memory issue. I haven't checked my manual but I don't remember any default setting for this.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 31,474
    only thing I can think of is when the maintenance required light (the little wrench) comes on, you have to push the button to clear it (after starting the car), and I think then have to cycle to the temp reading.

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • bob324bob324 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Accord 4 cyl with 98k miles and it has recently started to use about a quart of oil every 3000 miles. This seems abnormal and any suggestions to fix or is this normal? The vehicle has had regular oil changes every 3000-3500 miles, If no way to fix, what would be a resonable life left of the vehicle?
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    This is not normal based on my Honda. I have a 2005 Honda Accord, 4 cylinder, with 95,000 miles. I change the oil every 5,000 miles. The oil does not move on the stick. I will say that if this were one of the big three, and the car new, that they would not consider that excessive.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    I don't know why, but resetting the trip odometers fixed the problem. :)
  • update: just back from dealer service, they ordered part, no questions - covered under warranty. "drive it in anytime next week and we'll replace the unit, no appt needed!" -oil changed at the coupon price of 19.95 and no hard-sell or pressure to perform the 30k servicing (i change filters myself, do other items at more reasonably priced stations). if honda service had more attractive pricing, i'd go there for everything. i do love my honda, and the service when i must go there! :)
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    resetting the trip odometers fixed the problem.

    Great. I'll have to remember that if I ever have any trouble with mine.
  • I am having a few minor issues as well as a major one.
    First the minor: A rattling sound from the driver armrest when radio volume is moderate to high. A grinding from the brakes. They work perfectly, just an annoying grind at random intervals and pressure.
    Now the major: Discovered a massive amount of water in spare tire compartment. Almost a gallon. Found white glue like substance under rear bumper, structural adhesive maybe?

    I really dont want to pay the 98 diagnostic fee plus parts and labor at my Honda dealer, so any help or advice would be great.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 31,474
    funny, but I found a decent amount in my spare tire well last month (and only because I had a flat and needed the spare). Make sure to post if you find out where it came from, since I haven't gotten around to doing it yet!

    Grad, I think I paid about $60 for the brake fluid flush at the tire place when i had my brakes done.

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Thanks stickguy; I'm going to price it at the dealer since I'm having some other work done there (horn), but will also check with the place (Big Ten) I have tires done, because I get the rotation/balance/alignment done there for free.
  • Flushing the brake fluid, while a good idea with any car, is a Honda thing. I haven't found where any other OEMs actually put that in their service requirements to flush the fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic (I think that is the word I want) so it absorbs moisture over time. That moisture hurts the performance of the fluid by contamination, and it provides opportunities for corrosion of brake components. Of course, my '93 Accord and my '93 Civic are the only vehicles I've had that needed new master cylinders.
    Its not too hard, I did it with one of those miti-vac things when I did my 30k service over the summer.
    When I was racing the Contour and the SE-R, I installed these things called "speed-bleeders" which are basically the bleed screw with a check valve in it. You just open and pump and it won't let any air back in. It was more critical to be able to do that fast as I would swap street pads for track pads at the track, and brake fluid that gets that hot should be changed more frequently.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Some personally directed posts have been removed. Is it the weather that's making people so cranky throughout the Forums these days? :sick:

    Let's just try to stick to the topic and resist the urge to needle others. Thanks!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Well, my dealer has told me flushing the brake fluid would be $169. I haven't called the tire-guys yet (worked late and didn't get a chance to call).

    Having replaced the master cylinder in my '96 Accord, I'm not going down that road again. Its been just over 4 years (the manual says every three), but that shouldn't be too far past due. The '96 went 11 years - then needed the cylinder replaced. :blush:

    My bad... :shades:
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    A quart of oil every 3,000 does not mean the car on its last legs. The point where you really need to worry is a quart every 1,000 miles and even then as long as you keep adding oil the vehicle can chug along for many years.

    One thing to keep in mind is how accurate your reading is. I had a Honda that would read a quart lower when it was parked on a street with a high crown because the oil would drain away from the side with the dipstick. I though I had serious issues, when in reality the car was just using a little oil.
  • Well, my dealer has told me flushing the brake fluid would be $169. I haven't called the tire-guys yet (worked late and didn't get a chance to call).

    Holy cow. If you lived in MI you could just come over and do it in the driveway. The vacuum tool thing was like $30 from Harbor Freight, a can of the blessed Honda brake fluid was $7 and it was about 40 minutes from wheels down to wheels down. I also took the opportunity to rotate the tires.

    Its not like its rocket surgery ;)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Well, its probably pretty complicated brain science to me... :) If a brake fluid change is $150 + I'll forget it and replace the master cylinder in ten years and consider myself ahead of the ball game financially ($150 every 3 years vs $350 every ten). Of course, I'll have it changed, but not for that price!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 63,942
    Actually burning a little bit of oil is probably good for the engine--lubricates the upper valve areas. My opinion is that it gets to be a real nuisance and a bit worrisome at a quart every 1500 miles, and a definite problem at quart every 1000 miles. But at 2,000 miles per quart and above, I wouldn't even worry about it---just be sure to check the dipstick once a month.

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  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I have 95,000 miles on my Accord. Does anyone notice how uncomfortable the driver's seat is. I have had to buy a pad to put at the bottom of the back of the seat. Is it the fact that the lumbar is there and the padding is thin? It does not make any difference whether I use the lumbar or not--it is very uncomfortable.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    I also find the seats uncomfortable. I think it mostly has to do with how soft the back cushion is. I think on a softer seat my back does not relax as there is too much give behind it. One thing that helps is to get more support under the knees. This stretches the back muscles more so they are more comfortable.

    I would think the power seats in an ex-l would help a lot, but I guess not.

    I put some extra padding in, but need a better solution. Would like to put in stiffer springs
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    Took our '05 V6 for a 30k service at my local mechanic. I was looking for any reference to Fuel Filter replacement in my service book, but see NO MENTION of it at all..... I tried doing some search here, both for Gas Filter (nothing) and Fuel Filter (hardly mentioned and not in reference to periodic replacement).... WEIRD....

    So, where is the Fuel Filter located, and more important, when is it suppose to be replaced?......
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    There is no fuel filter on a 7th gen Accord. There is only a strainer in the tank, and it should last the life of the car. I guess they figure if it's small enough to go through the strainer, it can be burned by the engine with no harm done.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    Wow..... This is the first car I own that has no fuel filter... GOOD. Thanks.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I think it mostly has to do with how soft the back cushion is.

    Interesting. I always thought the Accord had pretty firm seats. I find them quite comfortable and I've made many trips of 250 miles or more. I have an EX-L and can adjust things fairly well. My only complaint is height.... or the sunroof not going over to the side far enough.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    EX-L is much better for seating, but I did not buy one because of the sunroof and headroom. Don't get me started on the mandatory sunroofs on higher trim levels.

    the Accord seat is not "soft" like some domestics, but it is nowhere near a firm VW (or my '90 Integra), Wwhich I Find very comfortable. It was firm enough that I did not notice a problem until after I owned the car a while and took some longer trips.

    Everybody is different though so seating is subjective.

    This spring I may try to raise the front of the seat and shorten the springs in the back of the seat so they are tighter. This should help for me since placing a towel under my knees does the same thing.
  • wise1wise1 Posts: 91
    My 07 Se has the original Michelins and they are feathering. The dealer says I am rotating them too often. It has 25K on it and the tires are rotated per Honda maintenance minder codes A-1 and B-12. This car was realigned soon after purchase and I was told if it does not pull right or left within 6 seconds its aligned properly. Of course thats a bunch of hogwash!!!! It still DRIFTS within 6 seconds and the feathering of the tires proves they don't know what they are doing!!! Any way does anyone have the specs. on alignment for a 2007 Accord SE 4-door???? I need these so I can get the alignment right I am not a money making machine!!!! :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • wise1wise1 Posts: 91
    When at a stop sign or a red light my 07 accord has pronounced vibration. Dealer says its a normal characteristic of 4 cyl. engines when under load. Once I accelerate the vibration disappears. Any possibilities of a motor mount cracked or ?????? Any comments appreciated. The purge control valve is noisy at the red light too, could this be the reason for the vibration???? :sick: :confuse: :sick:
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Dealer says its a normal characteristic of 4 cyl. engines when under load.

    No vibration in my 06 I4... same thing as the 07. If your vibration is new, then it isn't normal for your car either.

    Is idling while stopped considered "under load"? :confuse:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I have more vibration when the lights, rear defrost, and A/C are turned on than when they aren't, but its not very noticeable (its got much less vibration than my '96 at idle, even though the '96 doesn't really have any problems in that department). Perhaps "under load" is referring to electrical; that's what I'm thinking.
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