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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The code on the service indicator (B12, A1, B2, etc) will tell you exactly what you need to have done. Brake fluid should also be changed every three years, independent of the service light.

    At 28k my car hit me with a need for oil/filter change, tire rotation, air filter change, cabin filter change. I just had it all done again (minus the cabin filter) at Big Ten Tires (chain), for $51, with my 15% indicator once again showing a B 1,2 at 56,000 miles.

    I have a 2006 Accord EX 4-cylinder, automatic.
  • aamixyaamixy Posts: 69
    Hi thegraduate, thanks for the info. That's unbelieveably low cost. :) I think there is no way I can get that price at any Honda dealer. Even for A1, I was charged around 70 bucks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    That's why I don't use the dealer, and don't plan to except for transmission service (I want them responsible should something happen - I still have a powertrain warranty). My breakdown:

    Oil Change - $19.99
    Oil Filter - $7.00
    Air Filter - $19.99
    Tire Rotation - Free, I bought my tires there. They also balance and align for free.

    The remainder was tax and disposal fee. I'm late on having my brake fluid done, but the dealer wanted $169 do it. For $350 I can have a new master cylinder done, with fresh brake fluid. I'll wait it out for that much $.
  • At the 30k I also did the brake fluid change, the inside air filter, and wiper blades. I think the brake fluid was $7 for the blessed Honda brake fluid, the inside air filter was $23, and the wiper refills were <$10 for both I think, but I can't find the receipt for that.
  • Sounds like a bad Idle Air Control valve and or low coolant to me.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I'm late on having my brake fluid done, but the dealer wanted $169 do it. For $350 I can have a new master cylinder done, with fresh brake fluid. I'll wait it out for that much $.

    The moisture the brake fluid absorbs can also rust the calliper piston, and cause it to start leaking, so it's not just the master cylinder that could go out. I think you are safe for 4 years, but I would not go longer than that.
  • Speaking of brake fluid flushed would you guess Tires Plus would use the recommended fluid? I need to do mine since I'm not sure if it's been done yet. I certainly haven't yet and I've had the car almost 3 years.
  • Hello all -

    Would you guess it's time for me to do my air filter again? I last did it around 32k and now I'm at just under 72k. I just got an oil change and they pulled the filter. It looks pretty gnarly, but looks can be deceiving. They also did a fuel line cleaning and blew out some carbon that had built up over the 7 years since the car was born. Any ideas. I had them look at the spark plugs just in case and they said that the plugs are still in good shape.


    2003 Accord LX Coupe 71,850
  • Speaking of brake fluid flushed would you guess Tires Plus would use the recommended fluid? I need to do mine since I'm not sure if it's been done yet. I certainly haven't yet and I've had the car almost 3 years.

    I think whatever fluid they use will be fine. There is a DOT grade (3, 4, 5) and as long as they use the right one, it should be fine. I mockingly refer to Honda factory fluids as being blessed, but they all have to meet the same requirements to be qualified by DOT. Just like SAE requirements for motor oil.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Would you guess it's time for me to do my air filter again?

    Depending on how you drive, changing the air filter every 30k is certainly reasonable... and recommended, IIRC.
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    Yes, I would really appreciate the picture. Thanks for the reply.
  • Is there a remote oil filter relocation kit available for the 4 cylinder Accords? I know in the olden days, most domestic engines had an adapter that would attach where the oil filter goes and had two hoses going to a remote filter mount. It added about a quart of oil capacity, and it allowed the filter to me mounted in a convenient location.

    I have found changing the oil in the 03-07 Accord to be a totally miserable, messy, greasy experience. I think relocating the filter to somewhere easy to reach would help alot. Right now, it is the 2nd worst of any car I've changed the oil, the absolute worst being the early 90s Prelude (the best, incidentally, is our '05 Legacy - the filter is at the bottom of the engine, oriented vertically, so you don't need an anti-drain spring in the filter, and you don't get oil all down your arm or suspension or exhaust manifold when you take it off. They also used the same filter for just about every Subaru on the road, so its easy to find).

    An oil change is just a miserable job on this car.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 33,364
    I never found it messy to change.

    Then again, Ihave the dealer do it. So maybe that's the reason!

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    Changed the brake fluid once in my '90 Integra when it was 2 years old or so. Have not changed it in the last 18 years. Master cylinder and slaves are still working fine.

    Not recommending anybody go against what the dealer says, but I wonder if the intervals are akin to the old oil change intervals of 3k or less - overkill.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    How much moisture the brake fluid absorbs, I think, is relative to the humidity in your area. I live in Louisiana (high humidity winter and summer, and lots of rain), and my master cylinder, in my old Accord, gave up within 6 years. If you live in California or Arizona, for example, it may take much longer for the brake fluid to absorb moisture. Even if your brake fluid has little moisture in it, it's probably pretty dirty, and the contamination is probably affecting how well your brakes work. I changed mine, in the 03 at 3 years, and it was already pretty dirty. The master cylinder is not the only component the contaminated brake fluid can harm. There is the Master Cylinder, the Callipers, and the VERY EXPENSIVE ABS Modulator. I'd rather be safe, than sorry. Brake fluid is cheap, and a hand -held vacuum pump is a one-time purchase. Considering most people don't keep the same car for more than 6 years, they never have to worry about what contaminated brake fluid is doing to the braking system. I plan to have my car for 15 years or more.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    It is very dry in SD.
  • I've never had it done on my accord, currently 35K miles, or my dozen or so other cars (over 100k miles). I personally think it's a waste of money unless you are actually experiencing some problems.
  • Hello experts... I have an awkward noise coming from the forward part of my Accord that I haven't been able to pinpoint. The noise sounds like a rubber ball being jiggled in a paper cup. The noise only occurs when driving at 30+ mph and is not rotational (it doesn't increase/decrease with changes in speed) and does not change when the engine RPM's increase/decrease. The noise is also not dependent on the climate control being on/off, the duct positioning (defrost, floor, vent, etc.) and/or blower speed (high, med, low).

    My assumption is that the noise coming from outside of the car. It sounds like the loose object (aka rubber ball) is being moved by the wind which causes it to make contact with an object (aka paper cup). Given that I can hear it clearly I'm also assuming that it is near the firewall.

    I have checked for any loose parts and foreign objects near the wiper area and firewall with no success. I would really appreciate any information that you may have.

    Thank you.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Did you check underneath the car?
  • Yes. I also checked inside the front wheel wells for any loose body clips.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    Last time I posted about oil (the message I'm replying to) was back in August of last year. I'm not sure what mileage my old (now my sister's) 2004 Honda Accord was at. I just checked before my brother took it out to take care of the oil change and tire rotation and balance (to be discussed in another post) and it was at 152,107.

    Since he was heading to walmart for the rotation and balance, I told him to just grab the mobil 1 oil there. I'm still a little confused over 5w-30 or 5w-20 but carzzz had suggested going with 5w-30 if your powertrain has expired back in this post so I thought I would stick with that. If wal-mart doesn't have 5w-30, I told him to grab 5w-20. Hopefully he can get a 5qt jug as they are usually $22. If not, he'll have to buy individual quarts at I think $6ish each.

    I wasn't sure about walmart's filter so I told my brother to stop at the local Ourisman Honda dealer in Laurel and pick up the oil filters there. I gave him a printout from showing the filter price at $5.28 each. He just texted me telling me he got them at $5.63 each.

    I saw a deal over here on slickdeasl for 5 quarts Mobil 1 synthetic oil + Mobil 1 oil filter for $27.99 from autozone. I wasn't sure about Mobil 1's filter either though.
  • I, personally, would stick with the recommended 5W-20. I just got mine changed at Tires Plus with a 5W-20 synthetic blend and it seems to be running great. Then again I'm only at 72k miles.
  • If the car says to use 5w20, I would use 5w20 until it started burning it excessively or something. Cars are designed to run at a certain optimal oil pressure, and increasing the viscosity may increase the oil pressure (think of it like blood thickeners and blood pressure). In some cars, useing 10w40 instead of 5w30 can result in blowing oil filters off the engine.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    I posted back on May 18, 2009 about tires I Was considering on my 2004 Accord. I put up a few suggestions and got some feedback from elroy5, lilengineerboy, and blufz1 (see the message I'm replying and look below to in order to see the other replies). At the time, my car was at 135k miles. Well sometime in the next few months I found out my dad just had all four tires replaced through somewhere. All 4 tires now are Goodyear P205/55R16 89H Eagle RSA. I think the original tire size is supposed to be P205/60z1691v.

    Anyone familiar with these tires?

    I'm not sure what milage the G009s were replaced with these but I know my sister (now the driver of that car since I got my IS 350 last year) told me details about the tires when the car was at 147,301 miles. So somewhere between 135k and that is when the swap occurred. Unfortunately, my dad's not really good at keeping paperwork. I'm not even sure if these tires are new or not.

    We did take the car to walmart on Saturday and had the tire rotation and balance and oil change done there. The thread life is 6/32 all around. The car was a 152124 miles at the time of service.

    I'm not sure how much life is left in the tires but once the tires get low again, I'm handling them this time.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    Thanks for the comments lilengineerboy and tankbeans. I Guess on the next oil change I'll just go back to 5w-20 then and play it safe (hmm.. I'm assuming that's the right weight. I haven't looked in a while).

    One thing that's got me a little worried is that walmart forgot to use the genuine honda oil filter that my brother picked up from the dealer right before (the part# was 15400-PLM-A02, and they matched's price down to $5.63). Instead they used theirs. a PRO 7317 oil filter as per the walmart receipt. I know the honda oil filter can go 20k miles (the manual says to swap out the oil every 10k miles, but oil and filter every 20k miles). I just swap out every 10k miles though because I don't do the oil changes myself so it would be hard to keep track of myself w/ someone else doing it. I hope this PRO 7317 filter can at least go 10k miles - the mileage at the walmart oil change from last Saturday was 152,124 so I have to take care of the next oil change at 162k miles.
  • I learned something about why the various weights are chosen by lilengineerboy, I'm learning something new all the time. And yes 5w-20 is the correct weight. I remember being kind of taken aback when I learned that on this car, and as such remembered it. I have a tendency to remember seemingly small things that are out of the ordinary (for me). I remember when I was younger, I'm still not old (21), and the standards were 5w-30 and 10w-30. I'm still not sure what the difference there is.
  • Hello all -

    I've recently noticed that my driver's side key hole, the only one available on my car, is recessed more than normal. It doesn't look like anybody tried to break in, but there is a noticeable gap between the keyhole slot and the panel that the handle sits in. Is it fairly easy to get in there and fix it?

    I'm not overly worried about it because I barely use the valet key and always unlock from the fob, but I want to make sure somebody can get in without the fob. Thanks in advance for the help.
  • All 4 tires now are Goodyear P205/55R16 89H Eagle RSA. I think the original tire size is supposed to be P205/60z1691v.

    The 205/55 tires are much smaller. That is making the speedometer read fast, the odometer run fast (accumulating more miles than you are really driving), and lowering the final drive (so the engine runs a higher RPM at a given speed). had a tire size calculator that will show the difference in height and circumference between various sizes so you can see how far off your speedometer and odometer are, at the least.

    Next time, I would get the correct size.

    That said, 205/60R16 is not that fun a size and there are very few performance oriented options. I think the 17" wheels and tires offer more size opportunities.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Looks like the tires were downgraded in both: speed rating & load index.
    That's probably why the tires wear out faster.
    At 6/32, you still can get another 10k miles out of them.
    If the car is driven a lot on snow, I would replace them at 5/32.
  • he8833he8833 Posts: 52
    As many of you have commented...The dealers prices for brakes are high very high
    My dealer wants to charge after telling me the rear brakes are shot
    273 for new pads and re-surface
    458 for new pads and new rotors

    Of course he says that I should only use Honda genuine pads etc

    Local shop is 300 for new pads and rotors, but says I should always replace the rotors as 9/10 they will pulsate if dont

    Where as to my surprise the DEALER says depending on the condition I may be able to simply have the re-surfaced.

    So question is what are the drawback of NOT using Honda brake pads. Local shop says they are most likely made by Raybestos or some other major manufacture and simply re-branded as Honda

    Any advice appreciated
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