Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

Mr_Shiftright

If you don't modify other parts of the car, including throttle body, and perhaps fuel enrichment, you really can't justify spending $200 for what amounts to a lot more noise and maybe 2 HP at full throttle....maybe. The throttle plate restricts air flow, so unless that's wide open, you're not doing very much with a CAI.

lilengineerboy

I agree with Elroy as well, I find myself intoxicated by the sound. The Contour with the 2.5l 24 valve V6 sounded awesome with that and the SVT/Borla exhaust. I miss that car.
Yeah CAI mostly good for noise more than power (they do make you feel like your going faster though) and put you at risk for sucking up water and hydrolocking the motor, depending on the design.

stickguy

I have a slightly bent rim on my odyssey (hard but doable to balance). I googled a while back, and was amazed at how cheap you can get wheels for. Some used, but other new, and I am pretty sure they are OEM. The $165 mentioned above sounds reasonable.

There are also some places around that will repair the bent wheel, but off the top of my head I don't remember the names. Again, google is your friend!

airbag? You mean the a"airbag off" light? That happens sometimes when I put my briefcase on the seat (or a very light person). Did the light not go off when you took everything off the seat? Never seen that before.

hondalova

Thanks for everyone's responses. My car as the five double-bar aluminum spoke rims they put on the V-6 Accord from 03-05 and the best price I was able to get for a brand new one was around $245 plus shipping. The car has 136,000 miles on it already and, while I hope to keep it for another year or two, I'm trying to balance need with cost.

My mechanic had "a guy" who could straighten my rim for me for around $175. However, I kept shopping, and finally purchased a reconditioned rim for $139.95 (including shipping but w/o the center hub cap) from www.hubcaphaven.com . This is an OEM rim that has been lathed and trued and then re-powder coated. They have a 14-day return for full refund policy (so long as it hasn't actually been used) if I'm dissatisfied.

The rim arrived yesterday afternoon and it looks great visually but I'll have my tech-guy put it on the balancer just to be sure it's true before we actually mount the tire on Monday or Tuesday. I have high expectations right now but will let you know if anything goes kablooey when I do.

-FS

ezshift5

Welcome to the family. (I have an '05 6M coupe with those same rims.)

If you are as impressed as am I with this fuel efficient rocket (well, I digress: best wishes for a balanced(vibration-free) replacement).

ez....

fm1381

I just recently purchased a CPO 2007 Honda Accord with Navi, everything is awesome with the car except for the Navigation system. After taking the car home I tried inputing an address to test the navi but the "menu" button would not bring up the menu (the display is showing a circle on a map of my current location). So I thought that was odd and began reading the manual to see if I missed something, but I didn't. Also, when I tap the indicator on the map that shows my position the Navigation system immediately reboots. So I took it to the dealer and they told and showed me that my navigation disk was badly scratched--it has round circles all around the disk. They told me it takes about 2 weeks to get the replacement disk which is a long time. I was wondering if I can make a backup copy of my disk will it work? It's not a big deal I can wait, but I was thinking that maybe if I made a backup it might work. Is making a backup even possible? My disk says version 4.73.

mrbill1957

The DVDs are copy protected, so you can't make a backup disk. How would you make a good copy of a scratched DVD anyway?

If the DVD has circular scratches, then there is something wrong with the DVD player causing the scratching. I'm surprised the dealer is only replacing the disk and not the player and disk. My guess is the same thing is going to happen with the replacement DVD.

Mrbill

edhollow

My wife and I, are most impressed w/this year Accord; most say "bulletproof". We say for the most part--true! 1st--brakes--yes the rears wear 2 to 2 1/2 times faster than, the fronts. There is also the tendenancy 4 the rotors to warp particularly on the rears. One piece of advise we received; Do Not Set the Emergency Brake, as this action tends to isolate heat on the rear rotor, w/ a "clamping" effect. This has reduced the warping effect on the rotors--both rear(s). Also, we have been using the NAPA "Adaptive One" hybrid ceramic brake pads with Hi-Performance slotted & cross-drilled rotors, on the front. This seems to have taken care of any degree of warping--for the front--that is! Our rear rotors have been turned for the final time- and will be converted, like the fronts, the next time.

Our gas mileage has been phenomenol through-out; varying from 28.5 to 35.5 mpg, and whether we are using A/C, in sunny, hot Arizona.

No other major repairs, no alternators, A/C components, water pump failure, or otherwise! We run strictly Honda fluids--especially coolant (which has no surfactants, of any kind), thereby avoiding premature wear on metal or seals.
Also, flushing and running only Honda power steering fluid, minimizing wear on components.

We changed our oil every 3750 to 4000 miles up to 150,000 miles. Converted to full synthetic oil, changed every 5,000 miles.

Everything else has been followed religiously--according to Mfg recommendations!

Honda must love customers like us--huh?!

elroy5

Honda must love customers like us--huh?!

I don't know if they "love" me. :blush: I do buy all my maintenance fluids and parts from them. They don't get to do the maintenance though, so maybe they just like me. They made some $$$ when they sold me the car, and a little now and then for parts, but they haven't made a dime on me for service, in quite a while (probably 15 years). I really enjoy working on my own car, and I've learned a lot doing so. The timing belt is going to be a challenge, but I plan to do it myself, when the time comes.

ezshift5

The timing belt is going to be a challenge, but I plan to do it myself, when the time comes.

Faced with the same challenge: I'm digging into my Naval Reserve bread for the budgeted $1200 (high estimate just in case). Your competence will pay off in a huge saving. You got this sailor's respect.

best, ez....

fw_man

I thought 4 cyl Accords of this generation had a timing chain. Thus no belt replacement. Was I wrong?

tankbeans

You would be correct. The 4 cylinder has the chain 6 cylinder has a belt. If I recall correctly elroy has an 05 SE 6-cylinder. Of course I may be wrong.

If it is a similar cost to my old Accord (95 4-cyl) it'd run about $700, that is if you're talking about the 6-cylinder.

tankbeans

...Hello all. Recently I've noticed that my passenger side door (I have a coupe) doesn't latch on the first try. It usually occurs when somebody tries to shut the door without paying attention. The door bounces back as if the latching mechanism is already engaged before it hits the hook in the jamb. I can get it to latch if I go over and lift up on the handle and push it shut.

Has anybody else had this issue and how have you fixed it, or should I even worry about it?

Thank you for your help.

elroy5

I thought 4 cyl Accords of this generation had a timing chain. Thus no belt replacement. Was I wrong?

03 EX V6, which has a timing belt. The car only has 75k miles on it, but it will be 7 years old in September. I still have time to study up for the challenge. I will be ready.

elroy5

When you close the door, notice if it seems to move up, when it closes. This means the hinge pins are bad, and the door is hanging low. If the door does not move up when closing, you might try lubricating the latch mechanism in the door. Don't know if any of this will help, but that's what I would check out. Good luck, and happy Hondaing.

accord6mt

I've also had this problem after my passenger door was replaced by a body shop. The body shop didn't seat the rubber door seal correctly so whenever someone tried to close the door, the seal would bunch up and the door wouldn't close. Only when the door was slammed hard did it actually shut completely.

I agree with the possibility of the door hanging low... but it could also be a loose/unseated door seal. Good luck!

tankbeans

I recently had my front fender repaired after scraping a pole (long story). Might the body shop have taken my door off and thus thrown it off balance? Do you think I should ask them to look at it? Is this seal easy enough to re-seat?

Coincidentally, I didn't start noticing the problem until after I got it back.

Thank you all for your help.

hondalova

You don't have to sell me. Mine is an '04 (Blue) V-6 Coupe EX-L Coupe with the 6 spd. Still averages 27 mpg on my 100 mile per day roundtrip commute, with 136,000 miles and going. Did my timing belt and water pump at 101k for around $680. Other than an occasional stubborn Check Engine Light problem (I've posted about it before - multiple misfire codes stored P300 through P306 - but can't find source of problem) that is usually best fixed by re-setting and waiting until it happens again 3-4 months later, the car looks/runs fabulously. I'm going to need a new one in the next 12-24 mos. and, while the new V-6 2LT Camaro 6 spd. is very attractive to me (I have a GM Credit Card and can take about $3,500 off the purchase price with cash credits), I may bite the bullet and cough up the $27-$28k for another Accord just because the damn things last forever. This is my 3rd Honda ('91 Accord, current car, and wife's '07 Odyssey EX) and they've all been very good. Enjoy! :shades:

hondalova

Final Update: The rim arrived on Friday and looked perfect. Had my guy put it on the balancer today and it was. Mounted the tire and threw it on the wheel (salvaged the center hubcap from the old rim) and drove it home. Perfect. www.hubcaphaven.com
Good stuff! -FS :shades:

ezshift5

(1) great outcome (2) you picked a winner!

At 75k, my 6M - like yours - performs big time impressive: (I've calc'd 40+ MPG in the flat AZ desert twice). Plus the 14.5 1/4-mile is fast enough for this sailor.

I really don't know what to consider (down the line) as a replacement - - - - I fear the buyer's remorse co-efficient would be high............

Glad your replacement wheel saga ended well.

best, ez....

temj12

I have an '05 EX-L and I have a timing chain. I thought that this body style all had timing chains. I have 95,000 miles. What have you had to do to yours in 185,000?

tankbeans

Only the 4 cylinder models have chains. I found that quite nice since the chains require less maintenance than the belts, but I can't speak to long-term repairs because I only have 73,000 miles and the car is 7 years old. I got it when it was 4 years old with 36k.

elroy5

I thought that this body style all had timing chains.

The V6 engines all have timing belts, even the Acura cars have timing belts.

What have you had to do to yours in 185,000?

The only repair I've paid for is a driver's door lock actuator (it started to move slowly up and down), which I changed myself ($35). The windshield wiper motor recall, and radio light extended warranty were paid for by Honda. Can't complain about that.

My 03 EX (L) V6 only has 75k miles on it, but the timing belt change interval is 7 years or 105k miles. It will be 7 years old in September, so the belt will be changed shortly after that. I think the timing belt would last till 10 years (that's about how long it will take me to get to 105k miles), but I'm not going to chance that. I already have the Helm factory manual, with all the details, but I'm gathering helpful hints from techs, and pictures from how-to's on the internet. It seems the main concern most people have is removing the crank pulley bolt, but we have tools where I work, than can remove much larger/tighter bolts than that little thing.

edhollow

In response to your question, "what have I done to ours in 185K miles"? Mostly, oil changes religiously every 4 to 5k miles; serpentine belt change at 100,000 miles; coolant changes every 50,000 miles--Honda coolant only; changed and flushed pwr steering fluid at 90,000 miles; tires--Michelin MXV4 S8 replaced at 90,000 miles, because they were rotated every 4k miles( replaced with Michelin Primacy MXV4, better, smoother, sturdier, more responsive ride); A/T fluid drained, refilled every 15 to 30k miles; alignment every 15 to 30K miles as needed, that is why we got "killer" miles from our tires--the tires are "V" rated, about $155-$165 apiece, but worth peace of mind for safety for my wife; and finally, pads and rotor(s), replacement as needed, which for us has been once for the front, and 2X for the rear rotors. O yeah, just replaced all the heater and radiator hoses, at 185,000 miles! Honda parts hold up great, and I usually pick them up at cost, from my local dealership. You can also establish a buying relationship w/ dealers parts dept. or receive them from Rockauto.com . Hope this helps?! edhollow

accord6mt

I'd tell the body shop what's happening. They should be able to correct it pretty quickly... the seal takes some manipulation and funky tools but it shouldn't take them long to see what's going on.

Good luck!

hello_kitty

I have a 2003 Accord Coupe and my rear tail lights won't come on. My brake, reverse and signal lights all work. I've changed the bulbs and checked the fuse and they are all ok. What else could be wrong?

avalanche2x

The pads on my LF caliper have been hanging-up and dragging on the rotor. A few days ago I removed the pads, cleaned the hardware/backing plate for the pads and lubed all contact points/sliders using a brake lube that I received from the local dealer.

I did notice that the pads fit very tight into the caliper bracket to the point where I had to hammer them back into place.

It’s been a few days and I now have the same problem. I’m thinking of taking it apart again and filing some metal off of the brake pad baking plate so that they fit easily into the caliper.

Is there an issue with this approach of slightly modifying the backing plate? Under normal circumstance I would think that the caliper piston is the cause however the pads are in the mounting bracket so tightly that they may not be backing off of the rotor.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Note that these are the original calipers with 62k and newer OEM rotors and pads (about 15k miles).
Thank you.

stickguy

might be the contact switch on the brake pedal itself (the gizmo that decides you are pushing the brake pedal down so the tail lights should be switched on).

Try putting the parking brake on with the car running. Pretty sure that will turn on the brake lights too, right?

tankbeans

I've never heard that the parking brake would engage the taillights. I should look at that myself out of pure curiosity.

thegraduate

Parking brake...

It won't turn on the brake-lamps.