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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • Before you spend a lot on a switch or a motor, try greasing the window track. It my just be increased resistance.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 31,076
    the door switch is usually a quick in and out with a screwdriver.

    The regulator is a much bigger deal, since you have to dismantle the door, and getting everything line up and back together again can be tricky.

    personally, I would do the switch but have no interest in opening up the door panel. But, YMMV.

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Hello all -

    Thank you for your replies. When the window works it goes down just as easily as before, but when it doesn't work it doesn't go down (or up depending on starting position), also if the window is down before I start the car it will then go back up. To sum up everybody's responses this is the regulator? The switch seems okay, but what do I know? (That is why I'm asking here)

    You guys are always a big help. Thank you for your continuing help everybody. Also since this sounds like a P.I.T.A. I might take it to the dealer. I just wanted to get a vague idea what it should cost beforehand so they can't upsell a lot of other crap. :blush:
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    You would have to take the door panel off, then when the window doesn't work, check for power to the motor. If the motor is getting power, it's either the motor or the window glass getting jammed in the run channel. If the motor is not getting power, you have to work your way back to the switches and wiring. Good luck
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Thank you for your continued help. I will be working on this tomorrow as long as the weather is okay and let you know what I find.

    Thank you for your continued help.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    Thanks for the reply tallman1. I'll probably do a mix of using the maintenance minder and a mileage based system. But from your reply, seems I'm on the right path on what should be done. I'll take a look around for brake fluid and transmission fluid info for her car
  • fltoppfltopp Posts: 2
    I hope someone can help. My wifes car worked fine yesterday when we parked it after coming home from dinner. This morning the wife went to start it and it wont start. The starter sounds fine and the battery is charged fine, but the car wont start. Anyone have suggestions? possibly fuel pump issues? maybe a clogged fuel filter? I even used jumper cables to see if the battery was somehow low, but sounded the same. Someone please help!!!!!
  • pgrunnerpgrunner Posts: 25
    Don't know if this will apply to you but check these possible causes (my brother's Accord had the relay issue):
  • fltoppfltopp Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info pgrunner. Ill start there.
  • numb3rznumb3rz Posts: 15
    edited June 2010
    Is Honda ATF fluid really superior to over the counter brands? Owners manual recommends their oil, don't they all. Planning on doing my own transmission service. I understand it's a simple drain and fill operation. Dealer quoted me $100.... for three quarts?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I would recommend using Honda ATF. The cost depends on if they were going to do a "flush" or just a "change". A change would be only 3 quarts, but a flush would be 9 or 12 quarts, which at $7 or $8 per quart gets pricey. To me, how many times you do a drain and fill, depends on how dirty the fluid is before and after each one. Personally, I change out 3 quarts every 15k miles, so hopefully I will never need to do a flush. Of course, if you are paying someone else to change it, every 15k miles, that could get expensive too. Do it yourself, and save $$$.
  • edhollowedhollow Posts: 8
    In response to numb3rz, yes, Honda ATF is far superior 2 others; and not just becuz the manual says so. I have a buddy who uses it on his Chevrolet Colorado p/u and gets smoother, fluid, shifts for his A/T. Yes, Honda's ATF can be bought 4 $5.50 to $8.00/qt.; 15,000 miles a change is "cheap" insurance when you consider the consequences of a worn-out or neglected transmission.
    You understand correctly about "drain and fill"--it's that simple. Look for a square opening on the side of the transmission case, 3/8's inch drive to be exact. I use a 3/8's inch breaker bar--and voila, the bolt or screw breaks loose, and out comes your red A/T fluid, approx. 2 1/2 to 4 qts; depending on the size transmission. Clean-up, re-tighten the "plug" slightly more than "finger tight" (becuz the case is aluminum alloy, and don't want to gall or strip-it! Use a long tipped funnel, and refill, after having previously measured the drained fluid. Sneak-up on the level, by checking with your dipstick. Don't overfill. You're done! Yep, it's that simple. Then you can tell me if you feel the difference?! :)
  • cabriggscabriggs Posts: 32
    I have an '05 Accord EX-V6 and I had it in for 90k maintenance today. They told me the catalytic converter shields are disintegrating. They quoted $200 for parts and hardware to replace.

    A few questions.
    1. How urgently should I treat this?
    2. Is $200 plus labor reasonable?
    3. Is this easy? How hard would it be to do it myself?

    Thanks for any info.

    They also said it's due for a new timing belt. I checked the manual and it says to replace it at 7 yrs/105k miles. I have no problem doing it then. Is there any reason they'd suggest it now?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The timing belt can definitely wait until the 105k mark. The shields for the converter are known to rust out on the corners, and start rattling. I'm sure a reasonably handy man could change the shields himself, which is what I would do. I don't know how much the shields would cost, but you can count on needing new bolts for them too. You would have to figure out exactly which shields you need. Here's a link showing the parts and prices. cgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=2005&catcgry3=4DR+EX+%28V6%29&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=EXHA- UST+PIPE+%28V6%29
  • cabriggscabriggs Posts: 32
    That's a great page, thanks! The picture is very helpful. If I'm reading it correctly, the shields and bolts will run me about $20 plus shipping. I know dealers mark up, but I don't see how they quote $200 plus labor, unless they're replacing more than that and simplifying it for me. They couldn't have have planning on replacing the catalytic converter though because it costs more by itself.

    I've been hearing a rattling like you suggest, so I asked them to try to identify it. They said it was caused by the shields and the brakes (I've replaced the pads and rotors and the dealer repeatedly referred to them as "aftermarket"--yes, they are, get over it). I'll have to look under my car to see exactly what's loose or rusting before I order. Thanks again.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    $200 sure does sound like a lot, for just the converter shields. The bolts can be difficult to remove. Make sure the car is supported with jack stands, before you get under it. Use something like a rubber hammer, or just a piece of wood to tap along the exhaust, to possibly reveal where the rattles are coming from.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    edited July 2010
    Here is something that worked for me with loose heat shields on a converter. The shields didn't have any mounting tabs left. I used 2 hose clamps wrapped them around the shields and tightened them up. They were on the vehicle for 5+ years, until I sold the car. Here is an example of the clamps, you may need to link two together to make long enough.

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    That sounds like a good idea, and should be easier than changing the shields. If you do go the clamp route, those screws are much easier to tighten with a nut/socket driver, than a screw driver. Thanks for the idea mrbill, I will try to remember it for when my converter shields start rattling.
  • cabriggscabriggs Posts: 32
    That is a good idea, and thank you for the rubber hammer idea. Time permitting, I'll get it on jack stands this weekends and see for myself what's really loose.

    Thanks again guys.
  • inspectoringinspectoring Posts: 102
    Hi - I have a 2003 honda accord. Yesterday morning while sitting in the heat - the fan all of a sudden stopped blowing cold air. I turned the AC on and OFF but nothing changes. Turn on the heater but no air. The fan setting is full and I changed the direction of the air from the face to feet to feet +body but no help.

    I do feel a change in the way the engine runs when I turn the AC on ( I guess that is the compressor) but still no air.

    Can you please tell me what I am looking at ? I took the car to the dealer but he was scratching his head :(
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 31,076
    maybe find a service department with a clue?

    If I am understanding correctly, you get no cabin air. So, something went in the fan system. Obvoiusly check the fuses, and the next likely culprit seems to be the fan motor itself. And any relays in the system. And the switch itself.

    should not be that confusing for a technician to go through the steps tracing the system along to find the problem. Potentially time consuming and expensive, but relatively straightforward.

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • steve1steve1 Posts: 8
    I have a 2003 Accord sedan that makes a rattling/clacking sound anytime I start the car. The car has had all of the required maintenance done on it by the same Honda dealership since I bought it and the last time it was in for service they said it was in great shape.

    The sounds seems to be coming from the engine compartment (towards the front) and not underneath the car in the center. Any ideas what this might be? The rattle/clack happens right when the engine first turns over and that's the only time I ever hear it. Maybe a heat shield that's coming loose? The car runs flawlessly other than this rattle and it has only 68,000 miles on it.
  • buyahomebuyahome Posts: 26
    Today I had the covers replaced on my catalytic converter. I was hearing the same noise. Rattling just when I started the engine. I thought it was the covers or the starter. I had the top and bottom covers replaced by the dealership. The parts were about $60 total and the labor ran just about an hour (less). Not bad and it is so quiet now when I start it. Get it done. You'll be glad you did.
  • steve1steve1 Posts: 8
    Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, a friend of mine also said it might be the catalytic converter covers. Hopefully, it's that or a heat shield and nothing more serious (like an engine rod). I'll be stopping by the dealership later this week to have them take a look. Thanks again for the info!
  • I have a 2005 V6 Accord that I don't drive very much, rarely in bad weather. I want some inexpensive tires, the most important factor is quiet - it's a noisy car, and I want it to ride quieter and smoother.
    Any suggestions?
  • mbusuttilmbusuttil Posts: 11
    Michelin or Yokohama are suitable for the accord...and the michelin are very soft compound,more smoother. :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Firestone FE380 or Goodyear Integrity tires are reasonably priced tires that are more "touring" based, not made for sporty handling. My family has had good luck with Cooper tires as well. Michelin tires are very expensive, as a general rule.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    edited July 2010
    Many of the reviews on Kumho tires have been positive as a replacement for an Accord at a far less cost then other tires. Take a look on and research Kumho on the Accord.

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    FR380, not FE380. My bad.
  • hondahenryhondahenry Posts: 35
    My car needs new tires after 40k miles. For those folks who have done this, which shop do you go, the dealer or other tire shops? What brand of is good and modestly priced? Thanks a bunch.
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