Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Quick Links
Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Quick Links
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs
Comments
also, many tire shops give lifetime free rotation (and sometimes balancing). That can be worth quite a bit over the years, but again, you need to make a special trip to get it done. You can also get the road hazard warranty for a nominal cost, for piece of mind.
costco and BJs also do tires, and have very good prices.
As to brands, it depends partly on what your criteria are (aside from price). Do you drive in snow? Lots of rain? are you more interested in traction or a quiet ride?
I put yokohama Avids on my 2005. They work very well, but are not really highly rated for snow. Kumho also has some good deals.
On my Tl (same size) I got B.F. goodrich toruing TAs, and they have worked very nicely. very good deal too. From BJs.
You can go to Tirerack.com and read reviews on different models, and see how they were rated.
2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)
As far as tires go, like the other reply said, I would go to tirerack.com and check out the reviews. My 2003 Accord came with Michelin Energy MXV4 tires that were very good in all conditions but they're not cheap (about $130 each when I replaced them at 55,000 miles). There are other tires out there for less than that which will do well for you (I just don't know what to recommend since I've always had good luck with Michelins). Tirerack.com has a lot of really good info, though. Good luck!
2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)
A couple days though, a strange thing happened -- the light came on -- suggesting that the resistor isn't burned out and that their might be some other issue. The light has gone out again, but I think the issue may be either a loose wire, or it could be that I inadvertently reset the radio console somehow (this is an used car). What I did differently from the past was that I inserted a CD into the player, then turned on the headlights. I've used the CD player before but never in conjunction with the headlights (I've only had the car for a few weeks at this point). After about 10 minutes I noticed that the display light had turned on. I was able to turn the engine off and the radio display light came back on twice after stops of about 30 minutes. The next morning it appeared that the display was still lighting. However, two days later the radio went dark again, and I haven't been able to trigger the display light again (suggesting that maybe there is a loose wire -- or perhaps some other issue). Has anyone else with a 4-cylinder LX sedan 2004 experienced a similar issue? (e.g. the display light stopped working and then came back on?) Any ideas for fixes?
The owner's manual says to change the automatic transmission fluid at 60,000 miles!
Most of the cars I've had before recommends a transmission fluid change at 30,000 miles.
Should I change it ASAP or wait for the next 21,000 miles?
Also, when should I change the power steering fluid? The manual doesn't mention when it should be changed.
Thanks.
I'll sched an appointment to have the transmission fluid changed next month. I plan to keep my car until the wheels fall off or it gets stolen or totalled, whichever comes first.
Thanks.
I'm at 63,100 miles.
My question is this. What is the best way to do a transmission fluid change and get most of the fluid out and replace it with new? I have been the Ji%%y Lube route on other cars...please don't suggest that.
Two dealers say 105,000 ,or 7 years.
What is others experience?
A lot less of my Naval Reserve dinero that a new Acura TSX with the same 6M but a lot less power and about the same fuel efficiency (freeway).
No real complaints, ez....
for the person with the shudder that (no surprise) the dealer "could not reproduce", the best thing is for you to take the service manager/writer out and recreate it yourself, since you know when it will happen. Most likely they just had a tech make a quick lap around the parking lot, so of course it isn't going to do anything!
2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)
Taking the front cover off, to inspect the timing belt, should take less than 1/2 an hour, and cost nothing. Taking both covers (front and rear) and the bottom cover (which requires removing the crankshaft pulley (which sounds like a job all by itself), and changing the timing belt, will probably take me a full day, if not longer. If I decide to change the water pump, tensioner, and timing belt pulleys it will also cost about $300 for the oem parts. There is a BIG difference, between checking the timing belt, and changing it.
Changing the timing belt on the V6 is a lot more difficult than changing the timing belt on your 96 I4 engine. There is a lot less room to work, which makes the job that much harder. I think I could change the timing chain on my 4 cylinder truck in half the time (I've done it twice already). I doubt that mechanic would change the V6 timing belt for the same $400, unless he is your best friend.
Oh, and my local mechanic charged me $645 to the belt and water pump at 106k - car now has 145k and still running OK (though it has developed some, um, er, uh, "personality" as the mileage has climbed).
-FS
Oh - and its NY metro traffic, so the cylinder de-activation thingy ain't gonna work so good on my commute.
-FS
The owner's manual says 105k miles, or 7 years, whichever comes first. My car will be 7 years old in September, but I only have 80k miles. I plan to change the belt myself, and I don't want to remove all the covers, etc. to find a belt that has very little wear. I will remove the front cover (easiest to remove), and check the condition of the belt. If it looks as good, or better, than my drive belt, which is also the original, I will probably go another 10k miles (really depends on what the belt looks like at that time), Honda's 7 year time limit is IMO a very low estimate on how long the belt will last. I don't run my engine hard at all 90% of the time, and I don't live in an area where extreme temperatures are common. I've not heard of any 3.0 V6 timing belts failing early. I have read quite a few posts from owners who've taken everything apart, to find a belt that is barely worn at all.
I would NEVER advise anyone else to go beyond the 7 years, but I am willing to bet my belt will not break before I change it. I don't think it's a gamble really, as long as I check the condition of the belt, and not just assume it's in great shape. To each his own.
Good luck!
I bought a Honda because i wanted to avoid these high repair costs--especially at such relatively low mileage (75k miles), and I feel disappointed that I face such a high repair bill for what is supposed to be a reliable car; and my Honda has had all the maintenance done at Honda dealerships but I am currently quite upset with the dealer's quote of $695 and I am looking at possibly getting the repair done at an independent shop (there's a repair shop in my area that specializes in Honda/Toyota so I'm going to get a quote from them).
Has anyone else had problems with their Accords front shocks leaking fluid and needing replacement?
Many people will insist otherwise, but that's usually because they have no basis for comparison. Since shock absorber degradation is so gradual, it's hard to notice the deterioration unless the shock absolutely collapsed--which they rarely do. Once NEW shocks are put on, the difference becomes apparent.
75K is a lot of bouncing up and down through potholes and who knows what else.