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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • jonahdogjonahdog Posts: 28
    Shocks can certainly wear out by 75K. And 75K in some areas (usually the northern states) is a lot more punishing than in others. I've seen shocks go bad (leak fluid) with only 10K (in this instance a Ford). My current stable has 3 accords: 2002 with 175K 2003 with 135K and 2007 with 40k. None has needed shocks/struts replaced. In fact the 2002 drives and looks as nice as any brand new accord.

    Did the dealer show you the leaking fluid? I would get a second opinion. :shades:
  • daveturnerdaveturner Posts: 25
    edited August 2010
    Thanks for the quick reply...the service adviser at the dealership did not show me the leaking fluid, but I am quite mad that they are charging what seems to be $200 above market price for the repair. I used to be "scared" to have my Honda done at an independent repair shop because I thought they might use inferior fluids or parts...but I refuse to be gouged... so I am looking at "higher tier"/better-rated independent repair shops to get the shocks replaced...

    I will definitely get a second and third opinion (I am awaiting for their repair estimates)--if their prices are good, i think i will have my tires changed, alignment, and front brake pads changed too (hopefully save some money for these maintenance services compared to doing it at a dealership).

    Also, not sure if the dealership is desperate for money...but I have always changed my cabin air filter at the 30K mile major service...I had my 60K major service done back in late June 2009, and my most recent visit (75K) the service adviser says my cabin air filter needs to be replaced soon...I have been driving the same streets/freeways for the past 6 years and all of the sudden my cabin air filter gets dirty so fast? Do you think I should just ignore them and just get my cabin air filter replaced during my next major service (90K)? What's the worse that can happen if the cabin air filter gets too dirty?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The struts lasted 75k miles. Well some last 150k miles, some leak before 50k. Chalk it up to bad luck. I do think you could get a much better price, if you shop around. That Honda/Toyota shop sounds like a good one to try.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    ...I have been driving the same streets/freeways for the past 6 years and all of the sudden my cabin air filter gets dirty so fast?

    If there is road work in the area, it could easily increase the dirt in the filter. I've always changed my own filter (easy, no tools required $20), and I have never left a filter in that long (30K). My filters are usually too dirty for me by 15k miles, but our situations may not be the same. In the owner's manual, there should be instructions on how to check the filter, if you want to see for yourself.
  • Did you buy the cabin filter from a Honda dealer parts department for $20....or did you buy a generic brand cabin filter from an auto parts chain store?
  • colkidcolkid Posts: 9
    daveturner, We have an ex-Honda repair shop,worked for local dealer for 25 and 12 years. They replaced mine, with Honda shocks at $129.99 each = $260 + labor 175 + tax 18 = TOTAL $452.40.
    Don't put anything on but the honda shocks, a friend of mine had a
    2000 accord v-6 for 320,000. Changed the front shocks with Monroe or some other good brand and the car didn't ride correctly. He immediately put on Honda standard shocks on the front and the ride was correct again.
    Get quotes with them using original honda shocks or buy then and
    take them to them. I am in Northern Colorado.
  • jonahdogjonahdog Posts: 28
    I agree, stay with Honda Brand shocks. If you like the Honda Ride, stay with OEM... I had a 93 and replaced the rear shocks with "Monroe" junk. Hated the ride, way to mushy and no control.

    Starting with the 2003 and later, the cabin air filter is a cinch to check and/or change. If you want to see a demo, check out Youtube. How often you change it is really up to you. Is the pollen / dust severe in your area? I change mine every 6 mos or so.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I do all my own maintenance, so I usually order a year or two supply of items from There prices are much lower than the dealership, but if you only buy one or two items, the shipping will negate the savings, so I will usually order wiper blade refills, six pack of oil filters, cabin and engine air filters, and any fluids etc. I will need for a while. I was thinking about trying the new cabin filters they sell at Walmart. They have charcoal in the filter to eliminate odors. I don't like the Fram engine air filters, so I will probably keep purchasing them from HandA. If all you want is the cabin filter, I'd say try the new one Walmart has.
  • Thanks guys for all the info regarding shocks and the cabin air filter.

    Based on the messages posted earlier, I will definitely insist on the repair shop using Honda brand shocks.

    I viewed the Youtube video on how how to replace the cabin air filter and it is indeed a simple procedure; I went ahead and ordered a Fram cabin air filter via look forward to changing out the cabin air filter this weekend....
  • fbc2009fbc2009 Posts: 7
    I needs some help as usual. My engine light turned on and the message is P0141, which is related to the oxygen sensor, the rear one.
    First question: what is the difference between a primary and the secondary (rear) oxygen sensor?
    Second question: how do I know if my engine is a CA standard one? the car was sold originally in NC, it says it is a LEV but under the hood it says also CARB standard. if I install an oxygen sensor not CA standard on CA standard engine, do I risk something?
    Thanks for your help!!
  • daveturnerdaveturner Posts: 25
    edited August 2010
    I finally got my car to the Honda/Toyota independent repair shop; the technician (who is also the owner of the shop) gave me a quote of $500 (out the door price) to replace the front shocks (using Honda brand shocks), but he wanted to inspect to see if my shocks really needed to be replaced.

    When he put my car up the lift he could tell for sure my rear shocks were dry (no fluid leak) and he mentioned that it looks like the front shocks could be a little wet; then he lowered the lift to the height of his head and using his flashlight he determined it wasn't wet--it was just the undercoating that looked shiny--he scraped a little bit of the area below the shock and it was dry (we looked at this together). So in the end he said my shocks don't need to be replaced, but I should change my tires soon (his shop doesn't sell tires).

    So in summary, either the Honda dealer I usually go to tried to rip me off or they had an incompetent or rookie technician misdiagnose that my front shocks were leaking fluid!

    I think from now on I will use the independent Honda shop to do my maintenance and repairs (they only use Honda factory parts)--the customer waiting area is no where near as good as the Honda dealer...but at least I know I won't get wrong diagnoses and super-inflated repair prices....

    also, I plan to buy new tires for my Accord from, and based on reviews, it looks like the Michelin Primacy MXV4 ("V" speed series) is one of the best choices. I could order the tires from and have it shipped directly to a local installer to mount and balance the tires (prices are published for each local installer and the prices seem reasonable). Has anyone bought tires directly from and had them installed using a local installer?
  • Shocks can wear and fail without leaking. Stock shocks are usually good for ~40-50k before there is noticeable degradation in handling and performance. What really gets affected is nose dive during braking, how composed the car is over poor pavement, and emergency maneuvers. They can be worn out and not be leaking.
    Monroe isn't a particularly stellar brand of replacement shock. Tokico is one of the OEM suppliers and is probably a better OEM/aftermarket choice. I have also had good luck with KYB GR-2s on my last Accord.

    If you like Michelins (and are willing to pay the premium for the brand), you might also check out Costco stores as they have a tire department that carries the brand. You can also usually get Sears to price match Tire Rack. That said, I have had good luck ordering tires (usually r-compound race tires) from tire rack and having them mounted by a local installer. Once I established a relationship, I could have the tires drop-shipped there.
  • Thanks for the heads up about Costco; I checked and they do indeed carry the Michelin Primacy MXV4, but it is actually priced higher than Tire Rack. I live in CA and Tire Rack doesn't charge any sales tax for me, but it does charge $52 for shipping--but sales tax is 9.75% in my area, so I come out ahead. Unfortunately, I don't have membership to Costco so I would have to buy an annual membership just to buy the tires.

    Actually Tire Rack allows us to order tires and have them shipped directly to many local installers--they even rate the local installers (based on Tire Rack customer ratings). The independent auto shop technician I mentioned in an earlier post advised me that the only problem with ordering from Tire Rack is that if there is anything wrong with my tires, the local installer could blame Tire Rack and vice versa, so he advised me to ask if the local installer can match Tire Rack's prices and buy the tires from the local installer instead--but i doubt that they can match Tire Rack's prices.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 32,857
    keep in mind that upfront cost is only 1 aspect. Many tire places give you lifetime balance and rotations when you buy from them, and over the years, that can really add up.

    Plus, if you get a road hazard warranty, you don't have to deal with a mail order place, and wait for replacement tires, etc.

    I actually go tires once at NTB (which happens to be a TR drop ship place and official installer), and when I showed them the TR price, they agreed to match it. But, what they ended up doing was ordering the tires themselves, and having me come back in a few days when they arrived. I ended up paying the TR price, but got the NTB rotation/balancing and RHW package.

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • jonahdogjonahdog Posts: 28
    I've purchased several sets of tires from tire rack. At first I just had them sent to the house but it's a lot more convenient when they are shipped directly to the installer. I used the tire rack on line installer review option to choose my installer. Good experience for me.

    Michelins are def $$$. I have your exact tire on my 2007. It is a great tire. I have Kumho KH16s on my 2003. They ride just as nice, but don't handle quite as well (but cost @ 1/2 as much). I do recommend having your new tires force balanced. Tires make a huge impact on how the car drives and you're going to live with them for quite a few miles. Some installers offer to exchange if you don't like the tires within a specified time/miles (might be a reason to consider local retailer). Doesn't hurt to ask.. :)
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    I get my tires at Discount Tire. Lifetime free rotations,balance,and air.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Would someone with knowledge on the ILP for this model (I have the 2.4L) please post it? I'd be very grateful! I'm still running low on MPG (can't crack 30 when that used to be the norm) and I"m convinced this is the problem.

    Thanks SO much in advance.
  • alamocityalamocity Posts: 680
    Not sure if this is going to help or not but you might try this to see if it helps, it's from a service bulletin dated Oct 2004.
    1 Make sure all electrical items (A/C,audio unit,defogger,lights, etc) are turned off.
    2 Start the engine,and let it reach its normal operating temperature(cooling fans cycle twice)
    3 Let the engine idle (throttle body fully closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Thanks a bunch buddy!

    How long does the battery need to be disconnected before-hand, I wonder?
  • alamocityalamocity Posts: 680
    As I recall at least 5 minutes.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    For anybody with a stick shift.

    I just went through a creaking clutch issue. I saw that some people were getting the master cylinder replaced - on another board.

    It turns out that a liberal application of white lithium grease in a spay can does wonders when applied to the plunger below the pedal and the spring up above. Spray works well because it gets to the hard to reach areas. Clutch now feels as good as new with 90k miles. No more clicking/creaking/groaning when being depressed. or released.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 32,857
    well, if you had asked, I could have told you this.

    I did go through the sueaky clutch syndrome (while under warranty), and got a new clutch master cylinder (hey, it was free, so why not).

    Then, about a year ago (out of warranty) is was squeaking again. Told the service writer. He proceded to get a can of spray lube, disappear into the footwell for a minute, and came out saying it was fixed. He did what you said, sprayed the linkage and rubber parts. SInce then, not a peep.

    It never impacted the feel or performance. It was just annoying. But not any more!

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I did the procedure (left the batt unplugged for 30 min) and it appears to have worked. Originally I could go 30+ miles before the gauge left the top most position. Then, when I got a new battery (before the ILP) that number dropped to 18-22 miles or so. Tonight, it took 38 miles.

    I think it worked. I'm taking a highway trip Friday and will let you all know.

    Thanks alamocity!
  • alamocityalamocity Posts: 680
    Hope it works for you, glad I could be of help.
  • mentiyamentiya Posts: 17
    Hello, I have a 2006 Accord Coupe Ex V-6. Just the other day I went to auto-recline the seat and when I went to return it to its proper upright position, it started making a clicking noise and stopped half way up. After messing around with it for a while I got it to go back up, but now the seat will not recline at all. It is stuck in its position. The seat still power slides forward and backward and up and down, but it will just not recline or come forward. Just wondering if anyone has an idea of what this could be? It seems weird that for a 2006 I would be experiencing problems like this. I had a 98 Accord and just sold it last year and never had any power seat troubles. Thank you to anyone with a little insight.
  • dan41dan41 Posts: 182
    My wife's accord ran flawlessly for the first 4 years. However, after the manufacturer's warranty expired, we had the problems listed below. Fortunately, I purchased the Honda 7 year/100K extended warranty and am I glad I did.

    Fan Motor Replaced in 2009 @ about 55K miles.

    Navigation System Replaced in 2009 @ 60K miles.

    Transmission failed & replaced in 2010 @ 66K miles.

    Navigation System not recognizing voice commands and I will schedule for service.

    We have 67K miles on the accord and given the failures we've had, I would be hard pressed to purchase another Honda. Had I not purchased the extended warranty, I would have been hit with repair bills exceeding $6,000.
  • Re:#5386 by dan41
    Yeah, it certainly makes you gun-shy, wanting to invest in another Honda Accord, or whatever; after such major repairs with less than 100,000 miles. We had to replace our transmission at 170,000 miles, even after a maintenance program of every 15,000 mi ATF fluid "change-out"!! Especially after hearing from Honda & non-Honda people, that this powertrain was "bulletproof". Tidbit of news: You can purchase an extended warranty for new or used vehicles up to 150,000 miles, bumper-to-bumper, through AAA; just read it in their magazine, Highroads, Sept/Oct 2010 issue/Call 877-943-3539 or visit "AAA.COM/WARRANTY" to receive a quote. Hopefully, this may give you the piece of mind, needed, especially since you have already invested time and money, and were looking for that Honda assurance and dependability.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I am on the opposite end of the spectrum. I see extended warranties as a complete waste. I bought the extended warranty for my 92 EX, and never needed it. The only out-of-pocket repair that car had, after the regular warranty ran out, was an A/C temperature control knob (under $5), which cracked. When I bought the 03 EX V6 I quickly declined the offer of an extended warranty. It now has 80k miles on it, and I've only replaced a door lock actuator (under $40). Chances are, the extended warranty will cost more than the repairs needed in 100k miles. Honda has been very very good to me.
  • Hve a 2005 Accord EX V6, after big problems with the power failing it was determined the throttle body was the culprit. Had it changed at 99,000 miles, happened again today with 102,000, it is being re-fixed under warranty, but i am worried, mechanic said this has been the error being brought up with the computer, anyone else have anything like this??? Thanks in advance.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    I agree w/ elroy5 about the extended warranty on the Honda. Since 2004, Me, my wife, and dad have bought 3 new Honda cars - 2004 Accord I4, 2007 CR-V EX-L, 2007 Accord I4. Never bought the extended warranty. On my 2004 Accord, in early '09, had a problem w/.. something after the engine w/ the accord well over 100k miles. I think it was somewhere w/in a hundred to a few hundred to fix. Otherwise nothing out of that. With my 2007 Accord, I messed up some rubber seal or something when I was standing out of my sunroof to do something and since I finally got around to taking it to the dealer just a little bit after warranty expired, they split the cost of with me making my total $50

    The 2004 Accord (bought 4/2004( is at a little over 166,371 miles and the 2007 accord (bought 9/2007) is at a little over 36,611 miles. Not sure what the CR-V is at.

    The extended warranties would have been a waste for me on two cars so far.. mostly a waste on another - but still have a ways to go w/ mileage so could be wrong on that.
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