Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • Thanks for the reply to me but I was replying to the person before me.. I am not in need of any tires yet... No discount tires around me.. Just walk in we will rip you off tires.. Never heard of Barum.. why would they do an exclusive agreement with Discount? doesnt make sense.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 25,738
    lots of places have private labels like that. Usually it is just another brand relabeled so they are just say a Huhmo or bridgestone underneath.

    2018 Hyundai Elantra Sport (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • Cooper CS4. Have them on my 2003; rides better than new. They've been on the car for 22,000 miles. No issues and wearing nicely.
  • dascher1dascher1 Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure this out? My daughter's 2007 Accord got itself into the same state as you describe. Exactly the same symptoms... I've searched all over the web and nobody seems to have a real fix for this. I've come across a silly procedure for 'resetting' the windows but it ended up resetting the radio presets and clock instead.

    I hope you can tell us what fixes this.
  • kcrossleykcrossley Posts: 181
    I need to replace the tires on my 2006 Accord EX I4. I've been purchasing Michelin MXV4's, but they're a little pricey. Has anyone had any success with any other brands?
  • I have used Falken tires and Brigestone Potenzas.. Falken becuase you get the savings in the tire becuase they dont advertise like Michelen where I bet 1/2 the price you pay is for advertising.. One setback is , you may get 50,000 if you are lucky. I always check tire rack for pricing and reviews good luck and have a prosperous day
  • mr_gonemr_gone Posts: 50
    Just drove a 2003 Accord with the 5-speed to see how I liked it. Have to say the shifting was a much longer throw than I expected, which reduced some of the sportiness I thought the car would have. Did the later models (04-07) have any shorter throws?
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I have an '05 manual. The transmission change is so smooth and easy. I don't consider the throws to be long, if I understand what you are talking about. Are you talking about the length that you push the gear shift or the close ratio of the gears. Both of those are excellent on mine.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    My 07 throws don't seem too long. Longer than a Miata for sure. The shift is so smooth that once have the "throw" halfway done the lever kind of goes the rest of the way on its own.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I need to replace the tires on my 2006 Accord EX I4.

    My 06 EX-L w/navi manual came with Bridgestone Turanza EL41s. I have about 94k miles and there is still good tread left.

    I'm thinking about the Michelin Primacy MXV4s when I replace these because they are so highly rated.

    Paying more for a tire seems to be a better deal if you are getting almost twice the miles as cheaper tires.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    edited June 2011
    Just put the Primacy tires on my Accord 2 days ago. Definitely smoother and quieter than the EL 41.

    Of course any new tire will use slightly more gas than a well worn tire and will not feel as direct. Can't get around physics - taller tread is just squirmier. That seems to be the case so far but only slightly), but hard to really tell as most of my driving the last two days has been in a rain storm. I will give more details after a few weeks of driving with them.

    Can say they are excellent in deep water - no hydroplaning like I had been doing in my well worn 41's.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Great to hear, Dud. I'd much rather hear from someone I know than reading lots of reviews, especially since our Accords are so similar and we both have had such great mileage with the EL 41s.

    I'm prepared for a slight drop in mileage, although it has always been stellar... even when new.

    I am looking forward to some quiet though!

    Looking forward to your feedback either here or the tire and wheel forum.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 857
    .....replaced factory original Mich HX MXM4 about 35,000 miles back. Current tread depth is 8/32; they went thru a March SoCal big time rainstorm without hydroplaning.

    (others were not so fortunate: I saw 4 major Interstate accidents during this late March storm).

    Pricey? Yes. I'd buy 'em again.

  • Dudley, I have an 07 LX-MT and am getting frustrated with the way it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear. Sometimes I hit a notch or hesitation before the shifter goes into 2nd. Other times it goes in like butter. Can you give me some advice? I just drove the car for an hour and did approximately 50 shifts from 1st to 2nd. I would say I felt the "notch" on ten of those shifts. Honda technician drove it for 8 miles and reported no issues. Kinda figured that because its still under warranty. The car has 55K on it....thanks!
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 801
    I've had the similar shift-quality issues on my last two cars (manual transmission in both)- a '99 Accord and '06 Mazda3. I found that switching to a high-quality, synthetic transmission fluid/gear oil. Just make sure that it meets or exceeds the manufacturer specs listed in your owner's manual. It made a very noticeable improvement in both cars and was well worth the extra few bucks!
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    Not sure how fast you shift, but Honda transmissions can't be rushed too much or they may resist your efforts. It seems the more even you shift they smother the action. Changing to a different transmission oil may help this, but Honda is pretty conservative about what they want used.

    Another problem could be that the clutch needs adjusting. There should be about 1/2 inch of free play before the clutch starts to engage. You could also have bad brake fluid in your hydraulic system (I much prefer the cables from the old days - KISS). I had a bad slave cylinder in a corolla once, but it gave problems most of the time not just 10%.

    Start with the simplest things first - try shifting slower.
  • mr_gonemr_gone Posts: 50
    The throws in the '03 Accord that I drove seemed long -- meaning that there seemed like more distance in moving from first to second, etc. But in retrospect, I'm thinking it might have felt that way in part because the driver's seat was low (not sure it even had an adjustment) so my arm was more horizontal than I would have preferred. The car had a fair amount of mileage on it, too, so maybe the linkage was stretched somehow. Don't know if that's possible or not. Anyway, the lesson learned for me at least is to make sure to raise the seat first when testing a car to give it a fair shake.
  • camrykillercamrykiller Posts: 9
    edited June 2011
    My neighborhood Honda dealer said nothing is wrong. Today, I took a ride with the service manager of a Honda dealer near my work. We drove around his lot a few times, and he saw me with the problem on two occasions. He then popped in the driver seat and drove it but couldn't reproduce. He told me to go back to the original dealership, take their service manager for a ride, and get it in writing that they can't find anything wrong. This way, if it becomes more of a problem after 60,000, I still have a leg to stand on.

    The clutch is great on this car, but 1st to 2nd is notchy on occasion. I may trade it, because I can't handle intermittent issues like
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,875
    Well you could try synthetic oil in the transmission, or a special additive--that might help. Also we can't discount the possibility of a clutch problem here. If the clutch drags or sticks on occasion (faulty pressure plate or oil on the clutch face) that might cause an intermittent notchiness.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • kendall8kendall8 Posts: 28
    2010 ACCORD LX. Pre Mature Rear Break pads. I dive 90 highways a day, to work, I have 25,000 miles. Took it to South SHORE HONDA Valley stream NY. They said it was over 250, to get fixed. And there was NO DEFECT. I called American HONDA. Marion at the 800 number said drop it off at dealer. I said I did. She call Sam Nicko 516 285 0036. HE SAID I WAS NEVER THERE. LIE I have invoice #c01349. I faxed it to American Honda, they said that does not count. Has to come from Dealer...WTF...I have had 5 Honda's .. NEVER AGAIN. I called BBB, filed complaint. Called Nassau County, filed complaint
  • mr_gonemr_gone Posts: 50
    Not sure, but I think if you go diving in a car, it could hurt its brakes. Being fully submerged in water isn't something the engineers anticipate. Just a hunch ...
  • My '03 EX-L Navi has had the occasional grinding or "notchy" feeling on the 1-2 shift almost since it was new. Took it in a few times when it was under warranty but was never able to reproduce the problem. I switched to synthetic gear oil which helped tremendously. The problem is much worse in cold weather and before the car/transmission warm up, usually the first drive of the day. Anyway, I have over 135K miles now on the original clutch and although the problem still occurs form time-to-time, the car continues to drive great. I think it may be an issue with the gear synchronizers as rev-matching makes it go away when it does occur.
  • cmigs2cmigs2 Posts: 1
    I replaced mine with Uniroyal Tiger Paws...ride is very similar, but tires cost $90 installed. Glad I made the change!
  • I have a 2003 Honda Accord EX V6 automatic , and it will crank sometimes and then it wont other times. I have checked the starter and battery . I want to check the starter cut relay , but I can't locate it under the dash relay box . Could someone please help me !!!
  • mitsu3mitsu3 Posts: 4
    So my Honda dealer told me that I need to have the starter repleced before Winter. I was quoted a price fo $725.00 plus tax. I find this rather excessive considering i just had the water pump and belt, coolant and spark plugs replace for $900.00 (I find this excessive too but what you gonna do. gotta be fixed). Is this amount about right or should I go to an indedpendent to have it replaced?
    Response much appreciated.
  • you are still going to a dealership for service.. Oh my lord. A starter for 725.. is it gold plated... find a trusted local repair guy though acquaintances... You wont believe how much money you will save.. The minute I was out of warranty I left... They wanted to charge me 100 dollars for a cabin filter.... 5 minutes of labor and 17 dollars for the filter and thats all it took for me to do.. The service department is the profit center for dealerships.. You have been providing them with lots of profit. I am ow at a wonderful local repairman who is fair and does extraordinary work..

    The other question is how does Houdini know that the starter has to be replaced before winter?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    edited July 2011
    You can get an original Honda starter (online) for $375, list price is $480. Remanufactured starters run around $150 but a Honda dealer probably would not install one.

    I just looked at the service manual and it says the intake manifold has to be removed to gain access to the starter. I verifyied by looking at my 04 Accord and yes, the starter is behind the intake manifold. I can't tell for sure if it can be sneaked out somehow, but if it can't, then a good chunk of the $725 is going to be labor removing/replacing just the manifold. The starter only has a couple of bolts and could easly be replaced if the manifold wasn't in the way.

  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    When the starter went on my Integra I just replaced the brushes. Didn't even have to remove the starter. It worked fine. Total cost about $20.

    Don't know why people want to take the hard route all the time. Oh yeah - profit!

    Be green and save money at the same time. Replace the brushes.
  • cnickiecnickie Posts: 1
    I would try a different dealership. I call 2 in my area, orange county, ca. one quoted 583.00 ther quoted 475.00 + 40.00 off coupon. Actually neg to 400.00 cash total. with genuine Honda Starter and Warranty. Call around. We have both honda serviced there on regular basis for oil change, etc. It pays in the long run.

    In this Economy....CASH speaks volumes..... :)
  • No way taking your car to a dealer for routine service "pays in the long run" other than making the dealer's boat payment. You pay more per/hour for service and there is a much bigger markup on the parts. In my experience they also "offer" a lot of unnecessary services. Find yourself a good local garage and get it done there if you don't want to do it yourself.

    There is a took on the Car Talk website to help you find a reputable local mechanic: Car Talk Mechanics File

    Here is an article from Edmunds on Corner Garage vs. Dealer Service Department
Sign In or Register to comment.