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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • robgraverobgrave Posts: 65
    Recall ID #53945

    I just made an appointment to have this work done (dealer called me about it).

    Basic info here:

    The work is a software upgrade, and is free of charge. And that's all I know. I am guessing the module will be more likely to detect the transmission issue before it becomes a real problem, but that's only a guess.

    Comments, anyone?
  • Thank you kindly for the update
  • We have a 2005 Honda Accord that needed a new cruise control switch. Our Odyssey switch bummed out at about the same mileage (90K). The Accord switch is very easy to replace. I would recommend unhooking the battery - more so that the horn does not keep honking than for safety. You will need a 10 mm wrench to undo the battery terminal, a phillips screwdriver, and a #30 torx driver to remove 2 screws/bolts. After you unhook the battery, unscrew the 2 philips screws on the back of the cruise switch, (trying not to let the screws come out completely), then unscrew the torx screws that are located on the side of the steering wheel. I did this with fear and trepidation wondering if the steering wheel would come off or the airbag would deploy. Nothing happened. After taking out the 2 torx screw, the whole center of the steering wheel can be pulled out easily. This center part includes the airbag and horn contacts. The cruise switch can now be easily replaced. Unplug the two plugs on the old switch and plug in the new ones. Screw the switch down on the steering wheel, then replace the center part of the wheel using the 2 torx screws. Hook the battery back up and you are finished.
  • I recently replaced the underhood fuse/relay panel in my 2004 Accord to correct the light dimming problem created by a failing ELD, but now my blower for heat and a/c stays on after ignition is off. Dealership had no clue!!! Any help?
  • Please dont take this in jest.. Find a local mechanic who does have a clue. Bring it preferably to a small place where the owner is involved.... Local dealerships are viper pits. Electrical issues are tough
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    edited August 2011
    Did you replace it yourself, and if so, do you still have the old part/s?

    If it was me, I would reverse what I just replaced, and see if the problem with the blower goes away. If yes, then you know it's something with the new part.

  • Just drove my 2003 EX-L navi manual with almost 140k miles round trip from NC to NY, almost 1400 miles total over 3 days. I've had the car since new and it runs and drives every bit as good as the day I took delivery. What a great car!
  • Oh yeah, I got 34 mpg on the way up with no traffic, and 31.5 mpg overall -all on regular gas. That includes Long Island congestion and DC traffic (about 1 hour of stop-and-go in Northern Virginia on the way back).
  • Hi fellow 7th gen owners,

    I have an 03 Accord 4-cylinder automatic with 115k. There is a "whirring" or constant whistling sound originating from the engine compartment area when I drive over 60mph on the freeway. It is a pretty faint sound (for now) that is easily drowned out by conversation or by cranking up the radio, but it has nonetheless started to worry me.

    I searched the other Honda forums on this type of noise and it sounds like the whirring noise is coming from a worn bearing on the idler pulley/tensioner assembly. Has anyone here heard of a similar sound? The sound occurs when I am stepping on the gas pedal and goes away once I take my foot off the gas. I'd like to get your feedback before I take my car to the shop. I'd like to add that my car drives fine with no other mechanical issues.

    Thank you,

    Yoshi :confuse:
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I have a 2005 Accord with 107000 miles. It still has the original hoses. Any suggestions on when to change them. They don't look broken.
  • In my book that is way too long to have not changed them... Just ask yourself the question.. do you want to be stuck 3 am in the middle of nowhere becuase you didnt change a 25 dollar hose.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    Partly depends on where you live. Ozone breaks down rubber. If you live in a city it will break down faster. Not a problem in South Dakota - copper doesn't even turn green here.

    I still have original hoses on my 1990 Integra - they look and feel fine.
  • grampy1grampy1 Posts: 140
    I have a 2007 Accord ,3 liter that i can't figure out how to get the air filter out.

    I can get the cover loosened,but can't swing the thing out of the way to get to the filter.
    Any help here would be appreciated .
  • go to the youtube website and type in "2003-2007 honda accord engine air filter replacement". it should show you how to change it. also can look for changing the cabin filter, behind the glove compartment, that is a breeze to do if you know how. they should both be on youtube. hope this helps!
  • grampy1grampy1 Posts: 140
    Bingo!!! Thanks much for the air filter,and cabin air filter change procedure.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    just had a check engine light come on. Scanguage says it is the o2 sensor. Anybody replace their o2 sensor yet?

    Wondering if something else could be triggering it that is making the o2 sensor readings off. For example I still have my original spark plugs - incomplete combustion might throw off the readings.

    Actually had the plugs in my cart to order before the light went, but don't want to put them in if the 02 is really bad and might foul them. On the other hand don't want to spend $180 on a new o2 sensor if I don't need to.

    Will probably just pull a plug and look at it. If the color is right then combustion is fine and I will be comfortable replacing the plugs.

    Would be curious if anybody else went through this.
  • It may be different so take it with a grain of salt.. Same thing happened to my sons subaru.. Took it to the mechanic...thinking it was just a measly oxygen sensor... nope.. It was the catalytic converter.. Again.. This is on a suby..
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    Hope it is not the cat. The scan gauge has a different code for the cat so hopefully it is not the problem.

    Thanks for the head up though.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    The codes don't tell you the component that is defective, only the system or circuit that is in distress. So yeah, that code could mean a lot of things---might be the 02, but could be wiring to it, an exhaust leak---anything that can throw off fuel mixture will upset the 02. Any good mechanic can test the 02 for you.
  • Sounds like your following the right course of maintenance & process of elimination, especially if your plugs are due for a change w/regards to mileage; 105k-115k. However, if you find that your Oxygen sensor is in need of replacement, website, is an excellent way to offset the high pricing, anywhere else!
  • What code is coming up? The following engine lights related to emissions issues have come up on my 2003 Accord 4 cyl.

    6 years ago, at 59K miles, I had a Code P0141 come up and my mechanic replaced the rear oxygen sensor which fixed the problem. It cost $166 at the time. No problems with that code since.

    In March 2008 at 92K miles I had another code come up, this time P0420. I kept clearing it but eventually wound up replacing the catalytic converter at 111K miles in order to get it to pass state inspection. That worked briefly but the light eventually came back on. Turns out there was a Service bulletin (03-063) requiring a ECM/PCM software update with AAA040 program for ECM/PCM incorectly interpreting sensor inputs resulting in that specific DTC. That cost $93 to perform but had to be done at the dealer. Wish I had known that before spending a grand on the cat. Anyway, no trouble with that code since.

    I'm about to hit 140K miles and car is still running like new. Hope this helps.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    I get codes 1157 (air fuel ratio sensor high voltage) and 0134 (air fuel sensor 1 heater system malfunction)

    Did not think to check service bulletins though good idea.

    120k miles right now so plugs are due anyway. Have to special order the ngk. Anybody know if the bosch are any good. I can get those locally.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    I am running the Bosch IR Fusion plugs. I purchased them with a rebate for $3.00 or so a plug, much cheaper than the NGK. However, please note they are only good for 50K or 60K miles. I have an 07 4-cyl. EXL.

    Good luck!
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 858
    .......the NGK plug (#6994) is currently available on the left coast - AutoZone - at $9.99 plus tax. Amazon has this same plug at $9.81. My favorite dealership - we have six within a 20 mile radius - wants close to $24/plug.

    This sailor's J30a4 had these plugs from day one off the showroom floor. No complaints this far, no drop in mpg at 109,000 miles. I plan on a 120,000 mile R&R. The idea of install and forget for six or so years appeals...................

  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    Just did the plugs. NGK IR $25 for 4 at autozone with a coupon. Mileage at 120,600.

    Still have check engine light. Looks like o2 sensor is next I will do the upstream one first. $70 for a denso at autozone with a coupon.

    At least it was not a waste doing the spark plugs, they were not too expensive and they were due according to the book. They looked amazingly good for that mileage - just a very light tan color and some minor rounding at the edges. I have seen 15,000 mile plugs that looked much worse. They could probably have gone another 50k. So looks like combustion is fine.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 858
    ............that's a very encouraging report on NGK plugs - IIRC , K24/J30a4 plugs are identical for the Gen7 sole regret is not being aware (of AutoZone coupons).............. all the best, ez.......
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    big30 for $30 off of a $75 purchase. Not a bad savings. I can always get up to $75 with oil filters etc.
  • I have a 2006 honda accord v6 that just hit 100,000 miles. Had the car since new. The only maintenance I have done is oil change every 3,000 miles. At 70,000 miles I changed the transmission fluid. I drive the car mostly highway, with some stop and go during rush hour. Car drives fine. Now that I am above 100,000 miles, what maintenance should I do? Any help here would be appeciated.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    You're due for a timing belt/water pump replacement at 105,000 miles.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 33,390
    plugs are coming up too. If you haven't done it already, coolant also.

    other than that and the normal filters, should be good to go.

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

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