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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • My 2007 SE V6 has always had a relatively harsh ride due, I believe, to the low profile tires. I'm considering switching to the 16" wheels that are standard on the 4 cyl. SE, to get higher profile tires. Just wondering if anyone has gone that route, and to what result.

  • In my experience low profiles are great on hot tar and really dont belong on your honda.. Of course the ride is harsh.. Look at how much rubber you have and the mileage you get from them is terrible... I never owned my low profiles, I leased them.... Warranties arent worth a dime because 99% of the time you get punctured on the sidewall and if you drive them in Winter you are taking you and your families lives at risk.... I would always get 4 snows on different wheels and put them on in winter if possible.. Some cars just dont have the clearance.. Yours will. My low profiles would get no more than 25, 000 miles and boy could I feel it.
  • Okay - this may be dumb luck, but after posting this the car makes a funny sound upon accelerating. Looks like I need to bring it in. Sounds like a metal rattling sound when accelerating. Any thoughts here - - looks like the timing belt will have to be on hold here.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    sounds like pinging--perhaps a bad knock sensor.
  • dolfan1dolfan1 Posts: 218
    I just replaced the tires on my 07, same model. Put on MXV's this time (the next step up). Supposedly they're supposed to ride a little better, but I can't say I notice any real difference. The tire guy told me with that 55 series tire, you're just not going to get that soft a ride. I can't imagine what those cars with those really ridiculous rims must feel like.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    I went from 16 to 15 with my snows. 205/60/16 in summer. and 205/65/15 in winter. I figured the taller sidewall would help in the bad winter driving conditions.
  • Yeah, I see those cars too, with the ultra low profile tires -- looks like they're riding on the rims. Got to be a hard ride.
  • Okay - to close the loop here. The noise was an inner heat shield that came loose. Took car to the dealer and they clamped it for 1 hour labor. After negotiating the other maintenance, I decided to have everything done at one shot. They did the timing belt, water pump, tune up, all filters, any changeable fluids (oil, transmission, radiator,etc), new front brake pads and rotors, etc. I am sure I am missing some things and probably had other non-essential things done to the car - eg, wiper blades. The total bill was $1,500. Dealer in Madison, NJ was nice and provided a free loaner car. Bill was probably a little high, but was worth it for the convienence of everything done in one day.
  • tom017tom017 Posts: 16
    Here's a new problem--
    I have a 2005 Accord LX 4 cylinder automatic with 29,000 miles. The car is well-maintained.
    I put new tires on it in spring of this year.

    In early summer, I was passing a car on the freeway and accelerated to about 70 MPH. Just when I hit 70, the car started violently shaking and shuddering like someone loosened all my lug nuts and the wheels were wobbling. I had to pull it off to the side of the road and stop. I checked the car and couldn't find anything wrong. I started up again and everything was fine and drove home smoothly.

    The next morning, I had the car at the tire shop checking all the tires. They rebalanced all the tires but said none of them were really out of balance to start with.

    That was about 4 months ago.

    The car has run excellent and smoothly since until yesterday morning. I was in a similar scenario...I was accelerting on an on-ramp on the freeway. When I approached 70 MPH, the car started violently shaking again. I was in heavy traffic and couldn't stop, but pulled off the freeway at the next exit and stopped at a traffic light. The shaking stopped and hasn't started again.

    Over the summer, I had everything on the car checked, all the suspension components and wheels look like new. The car only has 29,000 miles and hasn't been abused. This shaking only happened twice, but I'm afraid something is seriously wrong and may cause an accident. I had it on the freeway just last Saturday and I was cruising at 75 MPH perfectly smoothly without a problem.

    Anybody have any experience with this or have any suggestions what's happening or going wrong??
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    All that for $1500. Good deal.
    You probably missed the accessory belt.
  • Yes - have them check the heat shields for the exhaust. I had same problem at 70mph and that fixed the problem.
  • I have originals on 2007 which are the michelin MXV.. I must be lucky.. The ride is still very quiet and 50% of treads is gone
  • tom017tom017 Posts: 16
    How can the heat shields cause the wheels to shake and shudder??

    Just a weird coincidence, about 2 weeks ago, I had the heat shield on the catalytic converter repaired. I had this pristeen like-new stainless steel exhaust and this cheap heat shield that rusted and rotted off like a cheap 5 cent tin can. They wanted to take it off but said not to park on grass. Well my grandson's ball games has a grass parking lot. I don't want the car to go KA-BOOM, so I had the heat shield fixed.

    That's when I had all the suspension checked. Everything was fine.

    But the shaking happend 4 months ago and didn't happen again until a few days ago.

    How could this create a shaking feeling that the wheels are all loose?
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    Installed upstream O2 sensor this weekend. Fixed the check engine light problem. The old one was pretty well covered in black soot. Kind of surprising as the plugs looked perfect.

    Pretty easy to get the sensor out, but it took several hours to remove the plastic clip. Wound up having to cut it apart - what a pain.

    Debating on the idle learn procedure after doing this. Thought I saw it recommended in the shop manual somewhere.

    Long trip this week - will see if mpg is up with the new sensor, spark plugs and air filter (it had been down just a tad lately)
  • IT's not an alignment problem: It's uneven camber settings: HONDA released a TSA in 2003:
  • Well - - I have to stand corrected, and you are right. I still have the problem with the shake and shudder. If you find out what this is, could you please let me know too?

  • Wow! When I went to that link I thought: That is my wife's car. The dealer had said there was no problem. The tire store I go to said it would have to go to a body shop to have the body bent to cure the camber. I got an estimate for that - $1,200. The car had been pulling to the right without any uneven tire wear. Today I took a print-out of that service bulletin to the tire store and they agreed to try it and accepted Honda's time estimate of one hour labor. Well, it took more than two hours but I got out the door with an alignment that meets the specs for a total of $207. I am happy. Thank you very much for your post! It saved me a thousand bucks. I haven't driven her Accord yet, but the print-out of the alignment results looked very good.
  • tom017tom017 Posts: 16
    I had the brakes on the Accord done last week. The Honda dealer wanted over $600 so I went to an extremely reputable local brake repair shop for way less than a third of that cost. I told him that the car is shaking and vibrating badly at higher speeds. He said that sounds like an out-of-round rotor or drum.

    He changed the front pads and turned the rotors. He pulled the rear drums and showed me everything back there was loose and out of adjustment--even though the drums still had the original seals on them. How they got out of adjustment--I don't know?? Everything was original. The shoes were like new. He turned the drums, cleaned everything and adjusted the rear shoes.

    So far, the car has been running very smoothly. The brakes are solid and quiet. I've had it on the freeway a couple of times but wasn't really able to open it up this week because of some road construction and lane closures with some heavy police enforcement. It's not worth the hassle.

    But so good!!
  • wise1wise1 Posts: 91
    edited November 2011
    I live in middle Ga. and would like to know who you recommend of those 5 independent service shops for Honda automobiles? My 07 accord will be needing some maintence soon. Thanks. :shades: Any thoughts on a Honda battery instead of an Interstate or something else??? My ACCORD SE will soon need a new battery as the original is getting weak.
  • sorry, don't live in Ga area, so can't give any advice on local shops; but I would recommend against any OEM Honda batteries or brake pads. I also have an 07 accord and have had problems with early brake pad wear and weak battery as well. when my battery goes, i plan to get whatever the local bj's is offering.
  • Looking at buying a used 05 EX-L V6 coupe. 78k miles, nice shape and well maintained. Will be commuter and be driven into the ground. Other than timing belt (@ 7 yrs) are there any common issues I should inspect or look for? Thanks!
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 801
    As you mentioned, the timing belt needs to be replaced at 7yrs OR 105k miles, whichever comes first. My dad just had the timing belt replaced on his 2007 Accord SE V6 4-door (and he pushed it to 127k miles) and it was around $600 at a local independent repair shop.

    Honda had some extensive transmission problems, especially with the V6/5AT combo, in the early 2000s. The 2003-2004 Accords were part of a major recall and class action settlement. But complaints on 2005 models are also much higher than average on various consumer websites and with the NHTSA. So it appears that the transmission problems continued into the 2005 model year??? To be safe, I'd call around to a few shops that specialize in Hondas (and maybe even a transmission repair shop) and ask for any input they have on the 2005 Accord's reliability. It could save you a lot of trouble down the road...

    Good luck!
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • wise1wise1 Posts: 91
    What brand specifically do you recommend for brake pad replacement??? Have you had problems with the front pads or the rear pads??? What tires have you had success with on your 07 Accord?? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks!
  • I recommend going to They have an excellent website that will give you a variety of options and information of different type of pads. I had a lot of problems with my rear pads wearing out early at around 20k miles, which wound up scoring the rotors. I was told by the dealership it was due to "salt" in the local environment, which was BS. I eventually got the dealership to replace the rear rotors and pads for free, but soon started to have problems with uneven rotor and pad wear at around 10,000 miles on the new pads!! I argued that this problems is on various websites for the new accords, but was told nothing is wrong with the caliper system. I eventually replaced the pads myself and found that the small retaining brackets on the calipers that the pads slide into, did not allow the pads to fit properly and had held the pads in a position that wasn't flush against the calipers...hence the pads were held at an angle and eventually started to grind into the rotors. I don't recommend anyone else do this (difficult to describe without pics), but i removed them and put the replacement pads in without the side retaining clips, and the pads seem to fit much better. They weren't loose, no noise, no rattles, and I haven't had any problems in the last 15,000 miles. No apparent problems with the front caliper system, I just replaced the pads without any adjustments and the after market pads are wearing great. (as for the type, i recommend deciding which material works best for your driving needs, ceramic vs. metallic, etc. some have longer lives, but get hotter, cause more dust, noise, etc).
    I am still driving on my original OEM tires, but switch them every winter with my dunlop snow tires, which I ordered from tire rack as well. I have over 52,000 miles and the originals have about 50% of original depth and the snows have about 75%. I think the original bridgestones have very good high speed control and dry cornering, but tend to be very poor on road noise or any wet or slick surfaces. I personally would not get them again and would opt for a better compromise on wet weather handling and noise. If you can't check out tire rack, another place you usually can't go wrong is the local Sam's club, BJ's or Cosco. They tend to have middle of the road to good quality tires at fairly good prices, provide tire repair, balancing and rotation for free! Hope this helps.
  • I don't know where U reside?; I live in AZ, w/all the heat, & inherentconditions. I have used NAPA ceramic brake pads--they have operated, well, in the heat. Previously, my wife's '04 Accord EX sedan, 4cyl, A/T, was experiencing warped rotors; so I changed the rotors to HP, w/cross-drilled & grooved, so they would avoid compacted brake dust (causing glazing) and rotate alot cooler. This seemed to do the "trick". After all, it's easier to change rotors, than a person's braking habits!
    On the tires, I have stuck with Michelin Primacy MXV4's; smooth rolling, quiet, and durable (at least 90,000 miles, even though they're rated for 60k). We rotate them every 5,000 miles; and check for alignment every 15,000; align if necessary, but certainly align no more than every 30,00 miles.
  • I agree with tire rack as good resource. I have purchased tires, rotors and brake pads from them. Very satisfied. I have tried kumho (ok) goodyear (eh) Yokohama (eh) but always come back to Michelin. Have had 5 accords and 2 civics thru the years (currently 3 accords). The 2007 is favorite.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 858
    .........sounds great - but I'm unclear - if you're saying you've got 90k on your Primacy MXV4 Michelins - - - - well, you're making my day.

    FWIW: new tread depth is 11/32; at 42,000 on my three year old Primacys, there's 8/32 remaining.............. Now that is impressive to this sailor.

  • tldtld Posts: 37
    I'm interested to hear more about the HP, w/cross-drilled rotors you installed. Has the driving characteristics changed when applying the brakes? I don't like the way the Accords grab, especially in slow speed rush hour driving. It's very hard to make smooth driving. BTW, I have 76K on the stock pads and the front are warped.
  • Yes, in response to a previous query of 90,000 miles on the Primacy MXV4--that's exactly what we received, driving miles; on the Primacys.
    In regards, to the high-performance rotors; slotted & cross-drilled--great slow speed driving characteristics, during rush hour driving. Where you "feel" the slotting effect, is when they grab at high speed 50 to 75 mph, on highways or the freeway; but no warping, or steering wheel "shudder". I'm getting ready to try the "carbon metallic" pads (the kind that are used on race cars--becuz they run cooler & brake well) today, 12-4-11. We'll see, how they perform!
    Also, if U have rear discs, as well, it would behoove U, not to apply your parking brake; as this will apply heat from the brake pad, clamping, on the rotor; and warp your rotors!! Also, every time U "turn" your rotors, you shave metal, which thins your rotors, and increases the liklihood, of warping! Hope this helps?!
  • rex_frex_f Posts: 5
    I'd appreciate some advice if you have experience in this area.

    I have an '04 Accord V6 with 76,000 miles. Has been running fine, although gradually over the last few years the gas mileage has gotten worse. Now down to around 20mpg around town and maybe 26 freeway.

    The Check Engine Light lit up. ODB code p2243 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) VCENT Line High Voltage It went out by itself. Now it is back.

    I'm trying to decide whether to just change the sensor, or pay to have a pro troubleshoot it. Seems like it could be a bad sensor, or it could be any of a number of things, such as fouled plug in bank1 , or bad coil in bank1, or dirty injector in bank1, etc. etc.

    Also please confirm that Bank1 is closest to the firewall, Sensor1 is the "upstream sensor" (accessed from on top in the engine compartment), and that a Denso 234-5010 would be the correct OEM replacement.

    Bottom line - would you "plug and pray" or would you have a pro troubleshoot?

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