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Have you tried to purchase a new vehicle within the last 6 months and either:

    * Brought too much debt with you from your previous car that you couldn't afford a new car purchase?
    * Expected to find a 0% finance deal on a new vehicle, but had trouble finding one?
    * Made the decision to buy used since new vehicles were too expensive?

If any of these situations apply to you, a reporter would like to talk to you about it. Please reach out to [email protected] by Wednesday, October 17, 2018 telling us a little about your experience, and the Edmunds PR team may connect you with the journalist.
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Jeep Liberty Diesel Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Hi,
    I can help. Drop me a line at [email protected]

    Dan
  • I’m considering buying a 2005 used diesel liberty, being that they were only in production for a couple of years do I need to be afraid of buying and having issues the vehicle it has 62k miles on it.
  • There is no fuel pump (from the factory) to send fuel to the filter/primer housing so if you are having to prime it often it could be a clogged filter. I always use Howes diesel treatment to keep water out of the fuel system summer and winter. It also prevents gelling but I had problems in summer too due to water. With no drain on the filter all you can do is use treatment or change filters frequently.

    ALSO, If you are buying filters at auto stores you might not have heard about the possibility of the housing overheating and causing damaged wiring or even fire. When I went to Jeep dealer for a filter they told me $100. I about choked. It wasn't a recall issue just a service bulletin update. I went with the new housing and later learned I could have just unplugged the wires to the heater. I don't know what unplugging will have on winter driving so I guess I am glad to have the new heater housing.
  • Probably due to limited production, I have not found any after market manuals either. At the dealer the price is about $400. but you only need to use it two or three times to get your money back.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The boost pressure sensor has a two piece tip. Each tip should have some yellow-orange plastic on it.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Have a look here on page 3:
    http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/Map_Sensor_Technical_Specifi- cation.pdf

    You can distinguish the pressure sensing "chamber" and you can see the temperature probe on the side. We may not all succeed in cleaning the pressure sensor depending on the solvent we use and how long we let it soak to dissolve the residue.
  • Probe has two (2) different contacts
  • Hi Andy. I have exactly the same Jeep and have the same problem at the moment with the transfer case position sensor. Please advise how you corrected the problem.
  • I have a 2006 Liberty CDR. It will all of a sudden loose power and you can not accelerate. Turning it off resets it and it will work again. It occurs much more oftern when pulling. Fule filters have been replaced and transmission redone. Mechanichs still can not figure it out. Anyone out there have any thoughts- thanks
  • msolmsol Posts: 8
    I had this problem when the car was maybe a couple of years old or not even, we have replaced the EGR valve and that corrected the problem, you can also do chip tuning and disable EGR valve.
  • Hi all,

    I have a '05 CRD. 112,000 miles. Has anyone experienced a knock on braking? It happens during around town driving at low speeds. I will be driving and slow down, at the final instant before a full stop I get a pop/knock that seems to originate from the undercarriage. I have had a couple of mechanics look at it with no luck...

    Also, I have the whine. I had my rear differential looked at and cleaned up, but my gears are totally fine. Whine still present... has anyone experienced this as well?

    I'm contemplating selling/trading my baby, and don't want the knock to bring my price down!!

    Help.

    Charlotte
  • HI
    I have 2006 jeep Liberty same problem.I just got it back from the shop.
    Get your repair shop to check the emergency brake.
    It may be caught up in the back brakes.

    Anne
  • Hi Charlotte
    Did you have any luck with the knock?
    Did you get the emergency brake Checked?
    Anne
  • trzrtreetrzrtree Posts: 1
    Has Anyone Replaced the Catalytic Converter w/ a Bypass Pipe including the Sensor?
  • Should the glow plug light flash on even when it is warm? My wife drives the car daily and swears it always came on until we had problems and took it it into the dealer.

    Last spring, we had a problem starting our 06 Jeep Liberty CRD and the dealer found one bad glow plug and had to replace all the glow plugs because they no longer use ceramic glow plug and have switched to all metal. Dealer had problems big time, fried the computer, replaced the computer and had problems programming the computer. It took weeks until they had it running again. How do we know that the new glow plugs, computer are working? We have another diesel [German] and the glow plug light always comes on.
  • i would like to replace the plug on a 2005 jeep liberty 2.8l diesel to a reguarl ended plug . does anyone now the size of the plug
  • I had a similar noise when braking and it turned out to be my rear u-joint.
  • I want to warn everyone. Do not allow any oil leaks to go for even a short period. With changes coming at every 6000 miles and me retired I don't have to do it as often as I used to. Evidently shortly after my last oil change the EGR which had about 100,000 miles on it started malfunctioning. That caused some oil to get pushed out somewhere such that the wind sprayed it all over under the hood. The dealer suggested it was the oil separator which I had replaced about 8,000 miles earlier.

    Here is the result. The oil which managed to not drip significantly on the gravel so I could see it caused numerous hoses to be compromised. They have a coating on the inside to protect them from the oil they carry but NOT the outside. If I had needed to crawl underneath I would have seen there was oil leakage but it coated the side of the engine and was not noticeable on my gravel driveway.

    The hose that carries pressurized air from the turbo split and I heard air swooshing every time I gave it a bit of throttle. Several of the hoses that are part of emissions were cracked and compromised. The hoses that carry trans fluid were so soft it is a wonder they didn't burst and dump all my trans fluid on the ground.

    Mind you, I checked under the hood at about halfway through the 6000 mile mark for the oil change and I did not see that oil leakage. Must have been right after that that things went down hill. It was probably two months that leak was eating away at my hoses and rotting them.

    So, at 134,000 miles my Jeep went in to find out what the dickens was the start of the trouble. A new EGR valve, all new hoses to the turbo, new oil separator, new trans fluid lines fluids, and labor cost me $1,400 at the dealer. The EGR alone was $267! They did me right for labor and parts according to what some others are reporting for costs.

    Evidently when this starts it starts too small for you to see any drips. But its eating away at all your hoses. So for pete's sake look under there more often if your vehicle has miles on it. In my case it was how long the hoses soaked in the oil. It doesn't take a lot because when I checked the oil it was down only half way between max and min.
  • zoomiezzoomiez Posts: 1
    Yes, you red me right.
    My car was purchased fr Oregon, we did not realize it had been stripped of its cat converter, which is required in California.
    I am looking or a used one in good working condition.
    Thanks!
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