You can find these manuals in almost all auto parts stores. There are Chilton's, Haynes, and many others. If you need it more specific, try Helm, Inc for the same manuals the dealers use. Be prepared to pay over $100 for Helms, but it is COMPLETE.
any idea where to get a copy of the Helm, Inc manual?????? I have both the Chiltons and Haynes manuals already.
i have an 1986 Chevy s10 2.5L 4 banger, 2wd pickup. I've put over $3000 into several new systems trying to get it running again. Fresh rebuild, put 2000 miles on it, then started acting up. has new computer, new starting/charging systems, new fuel delivery system (TBI base unit and injector, pump, filters, fuel pressure regulator), new ignition /timing system. as one of my friends put it, i've changed just about everything on that engine but the paint. still wont run. will start maybe twice a week, but wont run consistantly at all. if i cant get this truck running consistantly i'm putting it in the junkyard and be out $3000. HELP!!!
was recommended that i rewire it..cant find a complete wiring harness to do this with. we know the problem is electrical but we cant find it. This truck has been in 6 different electrical and automotive repair shops and NO ONE can find the problem.
You can find the Helm books at www.helminc.com. The manual for the 1986 S10 is part number ST36986K and it is $75.00. You better check it out, though, but I'm pretty sure that is the right number. Make sure you have the engine/body grounds tight and working. There should be one right near the windshield washer motor and maybe another one somewhere on the firewall. Sounds like it could be a ground problem. Good luck!
well i am lost my 2000 s10 4x4 4.3 is not blowing heat i have checked that coolant level fine flushed the heater core (with a garden hose) it seems to be circulating it does have some slugh in the rad i was wondering if it could be a cap or is there a sensor that could cause it to do that could use some help on this one anyone ray
Yes, I had that problem with my 99 Sonoma. I'm sure you flushed the heater core in both direction, then flush the rest of the cooling system, then refill it with the old green anti-freeze/water mix(50/50.)That solved my problem.
This is an old post, so I assume you have solved your problem, or burned the thing to the ground by now. I'll answer anyway, in case it helps someone else who is making this same mistake.. You have long since past the time to take the truck to a professional who knows what he is doing. Your hit and miss approach, and throwing money and parts at it in the wild hope you may guess correctly, it costing you way too much money, and you are replacing many un-needed parts. It's nice to try to learn to do your own maintenance, but you are in way over your head, and all you are accomplishing is wasting your money and frustrating yourself. You are not saving money when you buy many unnecessary parts, and spend so much time on the problem. Take it to a knowledgeable technician and he will have the problem solved in a hurry. One hour should be all a good mechanic would require to locate the trouble. Must longer than that, and you need to change mechanics. That means, at today's going rate, It will only cost you about a $100.00 bucks to find the problem. How much time and money have you wasted already, guessing and hoping? Like Kenny Rogers said, "You got to know when to hod 'em, and know when to fold 'em..!"
Check your thermostat. Did it work and suddenly stop? What is the engine temp? Your thermostat could be stuck open, or missing, either of which wouldn't allow the engine not to reach proper operating temp. Stick a thermometer in the top of radiator, or your finger, see if it's too hot to touch. If no thermostate, it won't get too hot. The sludge in radiator wouldn't cause the proble, neither would the cap. Pull hose off the heater radiator to check circulation. If the water is circulating and not hot, then the water isn't hot. Worst and last possibility,.... blown head gasket.. , but lets eleminate the little things first...
I have a 1987 S15 and the Oil pressure shows 0 and the water temp pegs out at 260 and the Amp gauge show 0! My question is will replacing the instrument cluster fix this since all three are reading bad? I know the oil pressure is good because it doesn't knock and it's not blowing steam so the water temp is ok. Also the dash pad is cracked how hard is it to replace?
I have a 98 S-10 2.2 5-spd that has a vibration that I cannot fathom. It is an Rpm based vibration that you feel mostly in the gas pedal that gets worse as the engine revs higher. I have replaced a motor mount, put on a new exhaust manifold gasket on, truck has new u-joints new drive shaft carrier bearing, new tires even though that has nothing to do with rpms... other than that truck runs great. No engine lights nothing. Even swapped the whole drive shaft from a 99 I have that has no vibration and it still vibrates. Now here is the catch. I took the back part of the drives shaft out and ran it up to 80 mph on a lift ... smooth as butter. but you can have the truck in neutral and it still vibrates when you rev it. Explain this one. Please.
I have a 2001 chevy s10 pickup the engine light stays on had it checked the computer says secondary air intake malfunction it gives no information about what it is or where it is located or what to do about it.Can anyone help me. Thank you
Where is the secondary air injection system located on a chevrolet s-10? In: Chevy S-10 [Edit categories]
Compare Ford Super Duty®www.southtx.texasford.com Compare the Ford Super Duty with a Dodge Ram Heavy Duty.
Ads Improve Answer: On a 2000 model year, 2WD w/ 4.3 L motor the actual pump sits down below the front bumper, on the truck's right side and behind (i.e. above) a splash guard that runs the width of the underneath. The splash guard is horizontal w/ the ground and has 4 bolts that are easy to remove. A couple of small hoses and electrical connectors attach to the pump, which is maybe 4 inches across and dark colored (black plastic cap on one end).
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i have an 1986 Chevy s10 2.5L 4 banger, 2wd pickup. I've put over $3000 into several new systems trying to get it running again. Fresh rebuild, put 2000 miles on it, then started acting up. has new computer, new starting/charging systems, new fuel delivery system (TBI base unit and injector, pump, filters, fuel pressure regulator), new ignition /timing system. as one of my friends put it, i've changed just about everything on that engine but the paint. still wont run. will start maybe twice a week, but wont run consistantly at all. if i cant get this truck running consistantly i'm putting it in the junkyard and be out $3000. HELP!!!
was recommended that i rewire it..cant find a complete wiring harness to do this with. we know the problem is electrical but we cant find it. This truck has been in 6 different electrical and automotive repair shops and NO ONE can find the problem.
HELP!!!!!!
Dubbledukes :mad:
ray
I'll answer anyway, in case it helps someone else who is making this same mistake..
You have long since past the time to take the truck to a professional who knows what he is doing. Your hit and miss approach, and throwing money and parts at it in the wild hope you may guess correctly, it costing you way too much money, and you are replacing many un-needed parts. It's nice to try to learn to do your own maintenance, but you are in way over your head, and all you are accomplishing is wasting your money and frustrating yourself.
You are not saving money when you buy many unnecessary parts, and spend so much time on the problem. Take it to a knowledgeable technician and he will have the problem solved in a hurry. One hour should be all a good mechanic would require to locate the trouble. Must longer than that, and you need to change mechanics. That means, at today's going rate, It will only cost you about a $100.00 bucks to find the problem. How much time and money have you wasted already, guessing and hoping?
Like Kenny Rogers said, "You got to know when to hod 'em, and know when to fold 'em..!"
The sludge in radiator wouldn't cause the proble, neither would the cap. Pull hose off the heater radiator to check circulation.
If the water is circulating and not hot, then the water isn't hot. Worst and last possibility,.... blown head gasket.. , but lets eleminate the little things first...
THEY HAVE COMPLETE SET FOR REPLACEMENT.
truck has new u-joints new drive shaft carrier bearing, new tires even though that has nothing to do with rpms... other than that truck runs great. No engine lights nothing. Even swapped the whole drive shaft from a 99 I have that has no vibration and it still vibrates. Now here is the catch. I took the back part of the drives shaft out and ran it up to 80 mph on a lift ... smooth as butter. but you can have the truck in neutral and it still vibrates when you rev it. Explain this one. Please.
Thank you
In: Chevy S-10 [Edit categories]
Compare Ford Super Duty®www.southtx.texasford.com
Compare the Ford Super Duty with a Dodge Ram Heavy Duty.
Ads Improve
Answer:
On a 2000 model year, 2WD w/ 4.3 L motor the actual pump sits down below the front bumper, on the truck's right side and behind (i.e. above) a splash guard that runs the width of the underneath. The splash guard is horizontal w/ the ground and has 4 bolts that are easy to remove. A couple of small hoses and electrical connectors attach to the pump, which is maybe 4 inches across and dark colored (black plastic cap on one end).
Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_secondary_air_injection_system_located_on- _a_chevrolet_s-10#ixzz1LOQr1Nsq