Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda Protege Idling Issues

good_boygood_boy Posts: 1
I bought a 2000 protege (auto) and has only 34 K miles. It runs fine but when I stop on a traffic light or the car is stationary it makes an audible rattling sound. This sound is not their when I am not stationary. Not sure why it's there. Is it typical of Protege's to make such a sound. I also have a 03 Camry and don't hear that. Any info would be much appreciated.


  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi - welcome.

    You might get some ideas if you go to the Mazda Protege Owners: Problems & Solutions discussion and search for "idling". I turned up quite a few posts about rough idle doing that.

    The Search This Discussion box is on the right just above the first post and just below the last post on the page.

    Meanwhile, I've given this discussion a bit more of a generic name so that others can join in here if they'd like.

    Good luck.
  • sly8sly8 Posts: 2
    I have had new altenator new spark plugs manifold gasket doughnut and cadalidic converter 2001 protege 2 liter intermedeate problem of rpm so low almost a stall runs normal most of the time i have a 30 day gaurantee and need a fix before time runs out any suggestions of what it could be??? please help any advice s appreciated
  • sly8sly8 Posts: 2
    I have just cleaned the egr valve it seems to be helping i know that part of my idle was altenator related it wasn't charging well wich was creating a real rough idle just enough charge but to run rough
  • ann14ann14 Posts: 3
    95 mazda protege 1.5 (1)idles rough;idle sometimes keep time with the indicator if in use. (2) headlights go off then come on again sometimes when i use the indicator -mostly left turn, sometimes right. any suggestions before i have to go to the dealer? chaching $$$; do i have to? Thanks in advance.
  • 95mazda195mazda1 Posts: 1
    I was driving my Mazda and 1st the radio turned off. It stalled out in the drive way. I would turn the headlights on and the interior lights it would want to stall mt foot to the floor it would not run. The air bag light is flashing and the speedometer does not work. All this happened after the radio stopped. The car is a 1.5 liter dx with around 104,000 miles on it. I never had much problems with it. If anyone knows or has suggestions what to do they are welcomed. Thank you for you're help.
  • I have a 1997 Mazda Protege and I bought it with 6000 miles on it. I have 189,000 miles on it and never really any problems. The other day I started it went inside to let it warm up about 5 minutes. When I drove it about 1/2 mile it died. It would crank over and start the rpm would go to 3500 then immediately to 1000 and die. I could start it and press on the gas and get it to keep running at 1000rpm, but once I pressed on the gas it would die. My nephew decided it was the fuel pump so we changed it and all the filters. This did not help. There was a few codes that would not clear. I took it in to the local garage for repair. They said that the codes were the mass air flow sensor, eng coolant temp sensor, egr boost solonid, intake air temp, idle system problems. They have had it a week now and do not really know what the problem is. I thought I would post this to see if anyone has any ideas or similar problem. Please help they are baffeled!
  • hbarrigerhbarriger Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 protege And i'm just woundering what the firing order is for it. I thank it is a 1.8 motor 16 valve fuel injection. problem i'm haveing is it will run and idle but when i give it gas it cuts out. so I changed all the plugs and wires but I don't know the numbers on the distribitor cap so if anyone can help it would be nice.
  • hi! i own a 1999 protege LX,1,6 liter...about a year ago,i fried the original engine,so i replaced it with one that has about now,65.000 miles...everything is fine ,only that lately,while on the road, regarding of the speed(anywhere from 20 to 60!),all of a sudden the gear just kicks into overdrive by itself and the check engine light comes out...i'm afraid that it may affect the transmission in the long run...i've noticed that if i stop,say at the stop light,it kicks back,so could this be related to the breaks? :cry: i have heard that the oxigen sensor might be the reason,anyone knows some details ,or had this problem before,please help!!! thanx guys!
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    It could be the EGR valve also. I'd bring it into the shop to have it checked out.
  • schmogcaschmogca Posts: 1
    Does anyone have any info regarding this. The same thing is happening to my 1998 protege.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Could you describe the problem exactly?
  • downtubedowntube Posts: 43
    I've done a bit of research on protege idle problems, having bought one a few months ago that idled poorly. Here are the common causes:

    Stuck EGR valve (remove and de-carbonize or replace)
    Vacuum leak (this was my problem. these cars are very sensitive to vacuum leaks)
    Dirty MAF sensor (clean with electrical cleaner spray DO NOT TOUCH WIRES)
    Defective MAF sensor (recall on some model years)
    Carboned Idle Intake Valve (try Seafoam)
    Bad plugs
    Bad plug wires
    Bad coils
  • jmazdajjmazdaj Posts: 3
    (Also posted in Maintanence)

    I bought my '98 mazda protege with 50,000 miles on it about a year ago. Right now I am at 60,000 and have been having this same problem for about 6 months. When I am idling, my car will start by making a soft sound. The longer I idle, the louder it gets, with some mild shaking.. So far, I have had my spark plugs replaced, some wiring replaced, and my fuel injectors cleaned.
    The other day my check engine light came on, and the code was for my wiring, and for the coil number 4. It went away when I got the wiring fixed.
    Also my gas mileage has goign downhill lately...
    Any help would be appreciated
  • jmazdajjmazdaj Posts: 3
    when you cleaned the egr valve, did you just pour the solution into the vacuum? what brand solution did you use? I read online that you just pour into the vacuum and have someone rev the engine, turn off the car, let it sit for a while, then drive it. Is this how you ddi it?>
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Same symptoms I had with my faulty EGR. I had mine replaced by the dealer; pricey solution but it worked.
  • downtubedowntube Posts: 43
    To clean the EGR, you have to remove it. It's a little tight particularly if you have big hands, but there are only two bolts and an electrical connection holding it on. Clean it with brake cleaner. Google for cleaning protege EGR and you'll find a howto somewhere.
  • zoom60zoom60 Posts: 1
    2000 Protege 1.6L on cold start up will idle at 1500rpm after about 5 min. it will
    drop 900rpm any advice.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    2000 Protege 1.6L on cold start up will idle at 1500rpm after about 5 min. it will
    drop 900rpm any advice

    Could be a number of things. Any other symptoms? Have you had regular maintenance performed on the car? Have you had the throttle body cleaned?

    My 2002 Protege5 normally idles between 1000 and 1200 for the first half minute or so and then settles down under a 1000.
  • I have a 1993 Protoge LX 1.8 DOHC with 94k on it. Recently, when I would press the clutch in the revs would kick up like normal, then go way low, about 200. It would either sit there until I gave it gas, or it would correct itself. It even got so low that it would kill the engine, but it would start itself back up. I took it to CarX and they replaced the ignition coil, plugs and wires. I picked it up today. It drove fine until I would slow down and be in first gear and make a sharper turn like into a parking spot. It would rev really low again, but not so low as to die. It seems like it's losing power when I have the wheels turned. I have no idea, but I'm gonna change the air filter tomorrow or sunday. Any help would be appreciated.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    drove fine until I would slow down and be in first gear and make a sharper turn like into a parking spot. It would rev really low again, but not so low as to die. It seems like it's losing power

    Replacing the air filter will not hurt but I wonder if it's not a dirty throttle body or a mass air flow sensor. Either one will make the car feel as if it's gasping for air. It would also lead to a richer mixture which means higher fuel bills, not a good thing these days.
  • mike294mike294 Posts: 2
    I own a 95 protege 1.8. I recently got a code for a closed throttle position. on start the cars is idling at 1500 + rpm and very slowly kicks down to 1000rpn, seems to act up on hot days with uncontrolled acceleration. once i put the car in gear it kicks the rpm down to 750 and purrs like a kitten. i pulled the throttle body which was very sticky and cleaned it. the TPS metered fine but i don't know....

    Any help and advice would be great
  • if you got a code reader i dont know why it didnt say that your heat sensor in the airfilter box is bad or that your mass airflow sensor is bad cause i had that problem with mine untill i replaced i dont get the bouncy rpm but i still dont know why i cant accelerate normal. if i baby my throttle from under hood it accelerates up just fine but when i apply a medium to large ammount of acceleration it putters down and sounds like it wants to die and extended pressure on throttle causes a any ideas?
  • I have a mazda protege 1.6 and when I am drivng it loses power and will cut off on me but I am always able to start my car right up. Could it be my fuel pump or fuel filter.
  • Mazda Protege's are supposed to idle at 900 RPM that's normal if it idle's higher then that or lower then that's not good
  • I own a Mazda Protege 2000 just purchased in August, I am having some idling issues, was only idling at 200 and was fine at first I have now replaced, plugs and wires twice, and O2 sensor, the mechanic seems to think it could be my cadillac converter, once they replaced the O2 sensor it started to run worse down to 0rpm all my lights would come on (check engine, my oil light as if the car stalled) and then it will jump up to 2000rpm and jumps my car forward. I have had my car for 5 months and it has been back and forth to the shop since any advice?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Have you had your EGR (Exhaust Gas Release) valve checked? If dirty, it can create a bucking sensation with wild jumps in the RPM.

    This is a known issues with Proteges. Are you dealing with a Mazda garage?

    p.s. The "cadillac converter" is actually a catalytic converter, but cadillac converter has an interesting ring to it.
  • Look for air leaks on the intake side, particularly in the accordian-like hose between the air-cleaner and the intake manifold. Any air leaks at all will screw up idle, while impact while driving will be less noticable.
  • Your Problem is with your alternator. It's been damaged, or is just worn out. Try using a volt meter w/ the engine running at about 2500 rpm. If it's below 13.6 volts, then you're alternator's bad. Change it out by removing the Catalytic Converter, and pulling it out that way, if your Protege' has AC. If it does not, simply unbolt the cruise control, and if needed, the module next to it, and pull your alternator out the top. If your alternator is not the problem, check your air filter, and the coil air intake hose for breaks or leaks. An error in the fuel/air mixture could make the engine "gasp". Also, check and make sure your battery is still good, and if your connection posts and clamps are clear of corrosion. If you have any further problems after trying these steps, visit your local Auto Zone, or contact me at ...

    PS: Try to keep the engine from backfiring. Don't let the engine putter down, let of the gas, and floor it again in an attempt to get it going, because each time you do, the engine will backfire once or twice.
  • This sounds like a vacuum problem. Or another electrical meltdown. Assuming you have power steering, the pump could be draining the engine of power. Not during normal speeds, because the engine is working hard. Check your battery for corossion, and get it replaced or the connections cleaned. If this doesn't work, check to see if either of your belts are loose. If so, tighten them up so about 2 pounds of pressure will bend it in about a half inch. If this still isn't the problem, press the clutch when you make these sharp turns, and give the engine some gas. Just enough to keep it from the chance of further damage until you can figure out what your problem is. Remember, your steering is powered by the engine, so check to make sure it's getting enough air. Giving the engine some gas in those tight turns should solve your problem.
Sign In or Register to comment.