Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems



  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    Had a thought about if my diagnosis could be wrong and the leak is coming from somewhere else. If the head gasket was leaking, would'nt the engine run like crap?
    The leak is showing up on the top front left part of my 4.3 Vortec Z engine.Like right next to the Thermostat housing.Is it possible the Lower intake Manifold could be leaking. the engine runs fine other than the leak.
  • littleoscolittleosco Posts: 11
    We have a 2000 S-10 with the same engine. As I recall, our leak was between the head gasket and the block. My husband says it is a fairly common problem with these engines. We took ours in to be fixed and it was several hundred dollars.
  • Hi newbie here. I have an 83 S-10 P/U 4x4 with a 2.8 6cyl. in it i just bought. I am trying to figure out what causes it to die at stops. It starts up great, driving down the road fine come to a stop it dies. If you have any ideas that would be great. Thanks Bob :mad:
  • dstclairdstclair Posts: 2
    I have a 98 sonoma ( 4 cyl.) that runs great and strong going down the road but when I stop and start to take off it bogs down and dies, It will start back up in 5 to 10 mins. and will run good for several days and then it will die again . I have been told that it is the 3rd cycl. I have replaced both coils, the plate that the coils bolt to tested and tested good. Replaced the fuel filter, plug wires, and plugs. Any clue what this may be? :confuse:
  • noxmartyrnoxmartyr Posts: 3
    haynes manuals are usuallly located at any local auto store , they have full electrical diagrams in the back and are only $20. well worth the money i own one for every car i have owned/
  • jschettkojschettko Posts: 3
    Did you ever find the problem?? I have a similar problem with a 2003 Sonoma Zr2.
    After reading some of the responses it might be a worn wire in the steering column from the ignition switch.
  • I could be the ignition switch i have a 98 S10 4banger that had the same problem. It heats up and causes more resistance in the connector which drops the voltage to the Fuel Pump And The ignition coils and shut it down. Then letting it cool down returns it to normal untill it gets hot. It took me atleast 8 shop and hundred of dollars and about 2 years to fine out it was a $92 switch on the key tumbler.
  • I have the exact same problem with my '96 s10 4.3 4wd auto. So far I've changed everything you've mentioned except for the O2 sensors and the catalytic converter. Hopefully at this point you've discovered something that I haven't yet. If you have any advice for me I would really appreciate it.
  • bizzy1bizzy1 Posts: 1
    Truck sat for afew months,had to jump start acouple times.Truck runs for afew min-then shuts dwn.Security light flashes on dash.Does anybdy kno how to disable Anti-theft system?I never had the keyless entry remote,but never needed it before!!!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    I can tell you where I think the problem is. The module plug at the key assy, remove plug and clean contacts, that should do it.

    In the mean while try this, turn key to run, shift into neutral, then start, might work.
  • I have a gmc sonoma that i will be driving and then all of a sudden will jerk and sputter and at times will die. The symptoms are all the warning lights will come on including security, alb, battery, air bag and service engine. and all gauges will flop down and back up several times until the engine starts back up, When it starts back the service engine light may stay on and may not the security light has come on and stayed on along with the airbag light as well. It is a manual transmission so if you are going down hill it will start right back up and may not have these symptoms again for days or weeks or it may do it 10 more times in a row. Most times it starts right back up, if you just keep driving put it in neutral it regularly starts right back ,sometimes it will not and you have to pull over take a minute to set and starts back up. Took it to a parts store computer code came back cam shaft sensor and crank shaft sensor replaced both of them and is still doing the same thing except it is not as easy to start back now . Does anyone know what this may be ?
  • I found the problem to be my positive and negative battery cables. Corrosion
    in the boots that join the wires at the battery and at the terminal block behind the right head light. I replaced all the cables and cleaned the connections, then I sprayed with sealer to stop the problem again.
  • Sometimes after sitting overnight my 1998 s10 v6 4x4 manual transmission, will start up and in a split second lower the idle to almost nothing... sometimes it will stall out. It will start after 3 or four times after doing this. Sometimes it does nothing at all... and sometimes it starts and runs fine. There is no issue when it is driving or running fine. If i give it gas when it first starts for about a minute it will stay running
  • Every morning my 2000 S10 4.3 starts perfectly in just 1 or 2 cranks - pops right off - but when the engine is warm, it cranks about 10 or 12 times before starting - and sometimes even backfires right away thru the throttle body - then I have to let it sit for a couple of minutes and try again - it will always crank long but usually start - I've changed the crank sensor and the coolant temp sensor and put a new rotor and distributor cap on - and changed the fuel filter - no difference - it also idles a little rough at about 600 rpm - any ideas?
  • Randomly, truck falls flat on its face while driving- Wide open throttle gets you nothing. While this is going on, I notice in the rear view that the truck is smoking black, like it's full rich. Pulling over and letting it sit for 10 15 minutes sometimes fixes the issue long enough for me to get home. Sometimes the problem happens again after 5-10 more minutes of driving. Truck otherwise runs great at idle, is not hard to start, doesn't seem to use excessive fuel.
  • What does the map sensor do?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Manifold Absolute Pressure Just sense manifold pressure so the PCM can perform its control functions. Control fuel, transmission when to shift.
  • im having a mess of fits with my s-10 a whinning noise ,and low acceleration taking off on a hill i have replaced water pump,power steering pump,accelerator,tensioner arm,starter,clutch fan,spark plug wires.anyone have any suggestions? :cry:
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    What engine? So you want the whine to stop and more power on hills. As for whine remove the fan belt and see if the noise goes away, just don't drive it. Check all pulleys for binding with belt off, make sure generator is free. Is the power only low on hills or all the time.
  • bitterbitter Posts: 22
    Not exactly sure what it is that is causing that, but It sounds like it could be your fuel regulator or fuel pump. Next time it stops like this, try a little shot of starting fluid in the throttle body, if it starts back up right away, you know it is a fuel issue. Not electrical. Always change the low cost items first, like fuel filter.
  • If you think it is the timing gear,check it out first. First, remove the distittor cap
    and have someone crank the engine, if the rotor turns inside the dist, it means the chain hasn't broken !
    If you have no compression and the rotor doesn't turn in dist when you crank the engine then you have a broken timing chain !
  • i would also recommend checking the heat shield on the starter to make sure that it isnt rubbing on the exhaust
  • I was one of the fortunate ones, I was able to get my car fixed within a day. Since I see so many people having the same issue and since I know I wouldn't have figured it out on my own . . . I'm passing on the wealth.

    My '97 S-10 was stalling at high revs. The engine would just give out, the lights on the dash would light up, and for a few seconds the car would drift and then jump start itself.

    I went to AutoZone and was ready to buy oxygen sensors, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs . . . all the things I would think that could be the problem and I know hadn't been taken care of in a long time. Figured there was a good probability that one or multiples of them would be the cause. The guy at the AutoZone save me a world of grief AND MONEY! Since the engine light had come on, he said he could just hook up the diagnostics and tell me what was going on. Good thing he did because, there's no way I would have that the problem was the one he diagnosed.

    It turned out to be the crankshaft sensor (I didn't even know there was one). It was a real pain to change out. It hides underneath the engine below the distributor cap and is NOT user friendly to exchange. But ultimately I did the job and the car is happy and normal.

    I guess they deserve the plug for all the money and time they saved me . . . THANK YOU AUTOZONE!
  • rfacctrfacct Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    My 92 S10 blazer w/ FI, V6, std. trans., runs for about 5 minutes then dies and will not start. If left to sit the process will repeat. Let it sit overnight and it starts. I have tried letting it sit for an hour and it didn't. I have observed plenty of fuel coming from the TBI injectors when the engine is trying to start. It doesn't fire. I have replaced the cap and rotor. I can hear the gas tank fuel pump running when I turn the key. I have added fuel conditioner to pick up water. It also idles too fast. The vehicle has about 150k miles.

    I was able to get it to start. I simply disconnected the fuel injectors and let it start using all the fuel they had been pumping in. It seems as if it gets hot and then starts flooding itself. Is this a MAP sensor issue? Once it was running, I reconnected the injectors and it ran for about 2-3 minujtes before dying again. It seems to be running at about 1200 rpm (really high).

    Any ideas? What controls the injector behavior?
  • debrazdebraz Posts: 1
    HI''look I had the same thing with my 1999 sonoma4.3''after 2 fuel pumps''senors''and all''I was using the same connectors that was on truck from start''I changed the contectors on fuel pump for 10 dollars and it works great'''these trucks have so many sensors'you can spend alot on''i truck was missing so bad'i changed thottle postion sensor.check crank sensor,i was going to check cam sensor which is in destriptor ///and found a scew broke on cap // fixs and has not ;miss a beat''eveyone told me it was injectors''boy im glad it wasnt'''' ;)
  • birdswinebirdswine Posts: 1
    I have a 2.2 that quit and it would start and idle and when you tryed to give it gas it would die. We replaced sensor after sensor checked fuel pump and everything we could think of, nothing worked. Sometimes the check engine lite was on and sometimes it would go off, nothing made sence. Finally FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!! The ground wire going from the neg. battery terminal to the frame was rusted and not broken all the way off at the frame. Put a new end on it and it runs fine now. YIPEEEEEE
  • ltheggieltheggie Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 s10 dies while driving,takes around 20 minutes to start back,codes say theft system fuel disabled,fuel to lean, I replaced ckp sensor,still dies any help please
  • did you ever get help for this problem?
Sign In or Register to comment.