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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems



  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Erase codes and see what comes back. Theft will stop engine in 2 seconds after start.
    Lean, fuel filter, fuel pump.
  • i got a 97 s10 and i just took everything off after the catalytic converter and i made it so the exhaust goes between the cab and the bed. I also took all the platinum out of the cat. Well before that the check engine light would come on an off. Well know when i give it alot of gas an let off an I keep a steady pressure off of it it starts to sputter and if i give it more gas it bogs down and sometimes even backfire. Did i screw it up when i took the platinum out of the cat?? An i checked the plugs an they are fine. I'm at a total loss. Any ideas???
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    The engine is programed for exhaust back pressure, that maybe your problem.
  • joytulsajoytulsa Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    We have a 93 Sonoma that will start and idle. We have replaced the EGR sensor. The truck starts and idles just fine and will run as long as you keep constant pressure on the fuel pedal even when breaking. Any suggestions?

  • hey man so what was the out come to this issue. How did you fix the problem
  • lrbushlrbush Posts: 1
    i have a 1990 gmc 350 will crank fine and run fine until it reaches temp then just dies will not start again till completely cool i have changed egr v,throttle position sen,air control valve,fuel filter,
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Try replacing the ignition module, they have been known to heat fail, and when cool work again.
  • fuel injecters got hot would stall on my s10 jimmy. finally replace it runs great!
  • hi i,m having problems with my chevy s10 4.3 pickup after installing new fuel pump plugs fuel filter and wires and rotor and fuel regulator and new injectors and i,m still having problems no power stalling can any one help me
  • whospoopinwhospoopin Posts: 1
    in the hot weather there was probably humidity in the air from evaporation effect. in cooler weather there is hardly any humidity because the sun isn't evaporating water into the air. So your problem is your distributor. replace cap and rotor and check the shaft and cap base for cracks or signs of corrosion. if that is also bad replace the entire thing which cost about 90 bucks and about 40 for cap and rotor. also inspect wires and plugs. your fuel system is fine which is what is causing the backfire... its the timing of the rotor and pins in the distributor. a little bit of moister arks the spark to another pin firing the wrong cylinder which creates your backfire.
  • 1986fxr1986fxr Posts: 4
    Son's 91 S10 with 2.8, 5spd trans will be going down the road and suddenly dies. 10-20 mins later your are able to start it and will go for a while and then does it again. This started not long ago and is progressively getting worse. My suspicion is the control module under the rotor in the distributor. We have fuel you can see it squirting out of the injectors when trying to start it. Less than a year ago we did plugs, wires, distributor cap, and fuel filter. So we replaced the module this morning. If that don't do it, any suggestions? I just love chasing electrical issues. (not!!!) could it be the coil? Noticed the tach was kinda jumping around at idle prior to all this happening. And I really don't want to start wasting money plucking and chucking parts that I really don't need to be replacing.
  • mjguillenmjguillen Posts: 1
    my truck just started having the same problem, have you found any answers yet
  • 1986fxr1986fxr Posts: 4
    I replaced the electronic control module located in the distributor right under the rotor and that seems to have done the trick. About a $30 part and took all of 15min to swap them out...
  • i have had this truck for 3 months last month it sarted hesitating and would just cut out but turn over without any problem i changed the spark plugs and wires i got a new map sensor and changed the fuel filter couple days later it happend again it seems to run gud in the sun and run bad in the rain so i thought it wud b the distributor cap but today it cut out and is running very rough rpms go up and down n up n down and it is nice outside no rain no mosture its really starting to piss me off i allso found that the pink wire that runs from the coil to the distributor cap was frayed so i jus put sum tape over it i cant find enywer that have replace the wires i couldnt find eny 4.3 s15 i did find 2.8 though can i use those wires?eny advice wud b apreciated!!!!
  • Just bought a 2000 Sonoma 4 cyl, 5 speed for my son's first car. I wanted to drive it for a few days to identify any problems. About 20% of the time, when starting off, it bogs down like it is not getting fuel. Only happens from a start, but I find myself having to pull off the road to let other cars by. The truck starts fine every time, and does not seem to have any issues at speed. It doesn't die when this happens, but is a safety hazard when trying to take off from a red light. The problem only occurs, as mentioned, about 20% of the time. Anyone have a solution?
  • i live 35 miles from waco texas, it will drive fine there but on the way back every mile it will die and it will start back up and die a mile, if you can help me i love it get it fixs soon. :sick: :sick:
  • 1986fxr1986fxr Posts: 4
    We just replaced my son's worn out AC compressor and got his AC working, but for some reason with the newly added load it causes the PWR steering pump to "rattle" you can actually see the PWR steering pulley vibrating when it "rattles". Happens around 1100-1500 RPM then smooths out we you go to higher or lower RPM. 1st we thought it was the pump going out so we replaced it, the next pump did it again so we took that one back and sure enough this new pump is doing it. With that press on pulley we thought it might be a alignment issue with the pullies so we have pushed and pulled that pulley to different spots on the shaft but still it "rattles" with the AC on...When I bought the truch the AC compressor was bad so it we had the truck 7-8 months before we fixed the AC and discovered the "rattle" With the AC off it does not "rattle"ever....WTF??? Any other S10 owners out there had this problem?..91 S10 with a 2.8, 5 speed manual....
  • hi i have a 95 s10 v6 4.3 vortec engine just replace the fuel pump,fuel filter about two weeks ago it was running fine til a few days ago it will drive good first 5 minutes after it will start to hesitate lose power wont go over 20 mpg if i try to go faster will stall out start up fine after runs good then starts doing it all over again would appriciate any input on what the problem could be..
  • Turns out there is a rear bracket that bolts to the exhaust manifold and the back of the power steering pump. It's been missing ever since we bought the truck. A trip to the local junk yard to find the bracket and then a trip to the muffller shop to weld it on as both exhaust manifold bolts to hold it on where broken off I guess back when the original bracket was lost.
  • my 98 s10 dies on me while driving keep pulling crank sensor put new one on does it again every couple days or so any can anyone help me out
  • i have a 2001 gmc sonoma 4x4 i started having problems with it not idling when i went 2 start it but if u give it a little gas it would fix itself after 5 mins and run fine and wouldnt do it again for months at a time but then it got more frequent.ive put a new fuel pump,fuel filter changed plugs etc but now its started idling very high as well as low sometimes going as high as 2000 rpms .i deliver mail and sit n the middle so cant drive with 2 feet 2 keep it running and if u take your foot off of brake when its idling high it has enough power behind it to actually shift a gear or pull you up a small hill.i put a new idle air control valve on it but it would idle so low it would die everytime i stopped so i took it back off and put the old one back on at the same time i replaced the pcv valve ran fine for 4 feels as if your pushing the gas pedal when it idles so high so i put a new throttle position sensor on it and cleaned the throttle body worked liked a charm for a week and a half but now its back to the same thing .noone can figure it out .also sometimes when it doesnt want to idle @ start up the abs and brake lights come on ,dont know if one has anything to do with the other but if you shut it off and restart the lights will go back out even if its still not idling,If anyone has any ideas PLEASE pass them on Im at a loss and so is everyone else
  • I have this problem with my 1997 s10 4.3L Vortec v6, LS model. Earlier in the week i was pulling into a parking spot at the local wal mart. The engine died on me as I was pulling into the spot. I coasted and put the truck in park and went into the store. Came back out and turned the key and the engine wouldn't start. The fuel guage also was stuck in the far right "F" position. The truck turned over, just wouldn't start. I checked the fuses and fuse #10 had blown. I replaced that fuse with another 20amp and the truck started and off I went. It ran for 20 minutes and I stopped the truck again at a store. When I came out I turned over the key to accessories and I heard the fuse snap and the fuel gauge stopped mid center. I checked and sure enough the fuse had snapped. I replaced it with another 20 amp and it immediately snapped when I turned over the key to accessories. I towed the truck home and dropped the gas tank to replace the fuel pump and sending unit. Though not attached directly to this fuse, the guy at the auto store suggested that could be the issue. After installing the new pump, I turned the key over 12 - 16 times and the fuse never snapped. Was out driving the truck last night (2 days after the pump replacement) and the fuse snapped again. As I was being towed home I heard the #1 fuse (brake lights) snap. Any ides where I can start looking for this problem? The truck has a motor and transmission that have been in place for about 3 years motor and 1 yr trans. I hate to get rid of the truck but it might be time to send it off.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Check the wiring all along the frame, and up by the transmission, there has been chaffing problems.
  • just rebuilt my 2.5 tbi engine for a second time (all internals are operational) replaced the: (distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs)(Throttle position sensor, Idle air control valve,oxygen sensor, temp sending unit,)(fuel pump,fuel injector, fuel filter, air filter)( ECM/ecc) So that leaves the: EGR, EGR solenoid, pcv valve, manifold absolute pressure solenoid, to be replaced. During my first rebuild I had the block re-bored to .06 (.60) over. During inspection I had noticed that the throttle cable had .75 of an inch of play between the pedal linkage to cable stop head, also there is a slow return within the cable assembly. Before I adjust the factory set idle, I would like to know whether anyone has SOLVED the problem.
    Thanks for your time
  • as the other guy said check for chaffing, as for your brake light fuse, check all bulbs at the juncture between glass of bulb and socket, if glue is busted they will short out intermittently. Do Not Hard wire anything that you may think to be shorting out, you will start a fire. Also as for staling while parking, check the valve between the brake booster and oil cover if bad it will rob hp and rpms causing stalling during braking.
  • i have '97 s-10 pickup truck, 4.3 liter 4x4 automatic transmission and recently i have been having issues with the engine stalling. so every 1st time that i start the truck, the engine will stall out either instantly or within a few minutes. after i restart it for the second time, it seems to work properly. any ideas on what my problem might be?
  • Ok .my 2000 s10 4.3l starts right up ,as im taking off it shokes up for the next 20 to 40 seconds then runs fine ,if i let it run for a couple min before taking off have no problem..Put in new fuel pump,filter ,spider,dist rotor and cap .Anyone with same problem? please help....
  • I would check the "Crankshaft position sensor" I had the exact same problem on a 97 Chevy Cavalier, changed the sensor after 5 days of trying to find out whats wrong with it, and it ran fine for years after that!
  • Crankshaft position sensor, usually dies the engine once it gets up to normal running temp, once it cools down, it fires back up with no problem, untill it gets hot again.
  • scottlknscottlkn Posts: 1
    Ok, I have a chevy 2000 s10 2.2. Engine was rebuilt a couple years ago and has 40,000 miles on rebuild. Its idles fine and cranks fine. When its cold it seems to run ok but when it gets warm and you start off from a stop the engine will start to bog down,skip,jump,pop and backfire but if I push the peddle to the floor it will straighten out and run. It seems to happen around the 2500 to3500 rpm mark. It is a 5 speed so it is hard to drive. As long as the rpm,s are high it doesnt happen. Sometimes it runs great no problems what so ever. I have replaced feul pump and filter. Air fiter and tried varios types of injector cleaner and run several gallons of race fuel threw it. The mechanics dont seem to know whats wrong with it and just want to replace this and that and I cant afford that. Anyone have any ideas.. Thanks
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