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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems



  • dmack88dmack88 Posts: 4
    Sorry to but in here however I have been following this thread to solve a problem on my truck. I think my problem might me the transmission control module. My symptoms are similar but it's more of "after driving on the highway I slow down then go back to high speeds it's stuck in 3rd. Won't shift into overdrive till I stop, shut off the engine, then restart. (Reboot the control module?)

    Is this difficult to reprogram or replace?

    You sure seem to know your dodge transmissions.
  • I'm having a bit of a problem with the manual transmission on my Dakota. Sometimes it is Difficult to shift into first gear and out of third. The clutch is also making a little noise when engaging into any gear. Any Ideas???
  • Hi all - first post. Couple weeks ago my 2004 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab, 4WD, v8, auth started having difficulty shifting 2nd to 3rd. This happens only occasionally, some days not at all, some days a number of times throughout the day. Symptoms are you're in 2nd gear for what sometimes seems like a fraction too long, then a hard, sudden, jolting shift to 3rd. Took it into the local tranny shop, and they suspected a line sensor problem. They were 'pretty certain' that was it, but no guarantees. 3 days later, and $175 poorer, no joy. Took it back in, and now they are saying it might be the 'EPC Solenoid'. This is a $550+ part, installed. They could only give me a 50% assurance this was the problem, so naturally I declined the repair. Codes encountered are: P0932 - line pressure sensor, and P0869 - line pressure high fault. They measure the line pressure and it was around 160. Apparently normal load pressure is maybe 60. Right now I'm looking for 2nd, 3rd and 4th opinions on this. 50% is not much assurance that the near $600 is going to be well-spent, and I really don't want to get into the position of having spent nearly $800 and still having the problem. My 2nd question is - is this part, assuming I would replace it - something a guy could R&R (if they had the part) - or does this need to be done by a shop?
  • dmack88dmack88 Posts: 4
    You will have to go back to message 618 or so but some of those around there might be of help to you. There seem to be two things that you don't mention. The TPS (throttle position sensor) and the connector for solenoid A. Please check those earlier posts. Also I know some mechanics hate to have anyone add anything that says it stops leaks, but the Lucas oil transmission additive helps hard shifting. I got a bottle and it has helped a lot. It's only about $12 to $15 depending on where you get it.
  • jer7robjer7rob Posts: 3
    My Truck was driving fine yesterday with no problems at all. I took it to a friends house last night and it was fine. When I left his house last night my check engine light came on as soon as I started my truck. I noticed that my truck seemed sluggish. I drove it anyway. When I had to come to a stop and then start again it seemed "okay" from 1st to 2nd but the transmission slipped from 2nd to 3rd. It did this all the way home (15 miles). It would slip and the engine would rev until it finally caught again and shifted to 3rd.

    Today I took it out and drove it around 5-6 miles to get it hot to check the fluid. It wasn't slipping at all today but was very sluggish (especially when first starting) It seemed like it took forever to get up to speed. I took it to advance auto and got the code that it was throwing.

    1762 The Governor Pressure Sensor input was too high or too low for 3
    consecutive park/neutral calibrations.

    I've had trouble with it before down shifting when the slightest bit of extra throttle was applied and when using the cruise control. I adjusted the throttle position cable going to the tranny and it worked fine after that.

    Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

  • pbell26pbell26 Posts: 2
    I have a 95 dakota with a 5.2 and automatic. I just bought it and the trans had just been rebuilt but the guy still had problems with it. I got it home and the throttle valve cable wasn't connected. So I put a new cable on it and changed the trans fluid because it looked dirty. Now it shifts fine but when you come to a stop it will not shift back into 1st by itself. You can do it manually but it won't do it by itself. Any help would be appreciated.
  • jer7robjer7rob Posts: 3
    Check this out! Now my truck will not shift out of 1st gear....when it shifts into 2nd it just slips.....and almost acts like it is in neutral....

    Thank you for any suggestions....
  • pbell26pbell26 Posts: 2
    Also will a 46rh out of a dodge ram fit in a dakota with a 46rh.
  • zyta88zyta88 Posts: 2
    2002 dodge dakota with 4.7 auto. Just recently the torque converter has started to unlock and lock once the truck is warmed up and driving at a smooth crusing speed. The tack will jump from about 1800 to 1900 . I have found lots of people with the excat same simptoms, but have not found any answers. Can someone help? Thanks.
  • My 2006 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 3.7L V6 just started doing something similar. The transmission light just came on and after some drive time the temp light comes on. I took it to AAMCO and they said that there were 5 different codes coming up and that it would probably cost about 1800 to fix. I was just wondering what you came up with because I have no idea what I am ging to do.
  • I have a 06 Dak quad cab 3.7L V6 automatic. I purchased it with about 20,000 miles. I now have 39,000 miles on it now and of course there is something wrong. When I first purchased the truck I noticed that it had some power issues. It didn't seem like it was running correctly at all. It had no power. Now, the check engine light is on and after a few miles of driving the temp light comes on. I took it to AAMCO and they said that 5 different codes were coming up and more than likely I need to replace the transmission. It doesn't feel like the transmission is slipping although I do see some hesitation with it going into gear when I first start it up. AAMCO wants to charge about $1,800 and I was wondering if there is something else I could try first. I mean, I don't abuse the thing at all! I run it pretty slow and I never mistreat the thing. i drive it to work and back on the interstate about 30 min a day..

    Please Help!!!!!!!!
  • dmack88dmack88 Posts: 4
    I checked with a repair place on the assumption that my problem is the TCM. They said that you would have to go to the dealer as they didn't think anyone else would have the flash drive to program the new TCM. The dealer said it would be $150 to install and program the new TCM. However when I asked about how much it costs they laughed because it's more than a good lap top. $880 Just for the TCM plus the $150 to install and program it. So no these problems aren't cheap. However your tranny should still be under warranty. It has less than 60,000.
  • jetawayjetaway Posts: 14
    That usually means that the forward clutch pack was slipping and got so hot it welded itself together and cant release.If this is the case it should feel like its binding up in reverse unless the rear band is cooked also.It will also lurch forward in park if this is the problem.If its not the forward clutch stuck then there is a problem with the linkage.
  • jetawayjetaway Posts: 14
    There are 3 solinoids in your transmission .A governor pressure solinoid a overdrive cancel solinoid and a lockup solinoid {TCC}.The only one that is considered a shift solinoid would be the overdrive cancel.That would explain why you have no 4th but has nothing to do with first.It seems from reading your post that you have no 1st gear
    "The trans will only operate in 2nd and 3rd".High gear starts usually is a bad governor pressure solinoid.No upshift from first is usually a governor pressure sensor.As far as changing the plug it comes as one piece with the internal wire harness and the overdrive cancel and TCC solinoid.It is not very hard to replace.First you drop the valve body.You may have to turn the drive shaft slightly to remove thr park pawl shaft{and to reinstall it}I have found its easier to leave the park rod on the valve body rather than try to mess with the E clip holding it on.Once the valve body is down you will need a 25 torx bit to remove the internal harness assembaly.
  • 03 6cyl. 4x4 trans doesn't shift to low all the time. happens on and off & it feels like its starting out in 2nd gear. trans fluid and filter were changed last week.
  • last week my engine light came on and now it won't shift from 1st - 2nd and when it does it seems like it is slipping. what could be the problem?
  • jer7robjer7rob Posts: 3
    Turn your ignition switch on and off 3 times and on the 3rd leave it on. Look at your odometer and see what code it says is the reason your check engine light is on.

    For me it was 1762 - Governor Pressure Sensor

    I replaced the Governor Pressure Sensor and the Governor Pressure Solenoid when my truck was doing the same thing and it fixed it right up. Might as well replace the filter while you are in there and the filter comes with a new gasket. It is a rubber gasket so don't over tighten the bolts or you will have leaks. Just a little more than snug does the trick.

    If you are going to replace the pressure sensor you should go ahead and relace the solenoid as well. From everything I have read they go out in pairs and it would stink to replace one and it really be the other that is giving you the problem.

    Let me know if you have any questions about this because I just did it a week ago and it is still fresh in my head.
  • I bought a used 96 Dodge Dakota.

    I have to increase the rpm's and then when they decrease it will go into gear. It's and automatic.

    Should I have the trans fluid changed and refilled or what ?

  • Hello,
    I have a '07 Dakota 2wd, 3.7L Auto trans. 36,547 miles. Any thought on why it won't shift?? Took it out on the interstate yesterday, 4,500 rpm at 60 mph.
    TIA for your help!!!!!
  • I am looking to purchase a 46 re transmission repair manual. Any one with any ideas?
  • I have a 2003 SXT Automatic 3.9L dodge Dakota. It has 59,000 miles on it. When I drive it seems that the first gear seems to be staying in gear longer then it should. Then it shifts. This also happens in Passing gear. It also seems it has no get up and go. Don't know if these issues are related or not. Does any one have any ideas that might help. Could my problem be a sensor related issue? Please help

  • I just bought a 91 ex cab with 5.2 motor & auto trans. it has 112,000 miles. The guy said the trans was serviced at 97,000 miles. Here the problem I'm having with it. When its cold and you put it in revers it backs up just fine. When you drive it for a while & have the temp. built up to normal , say 10 miles or so, when you go to back it up the rpm drops it shuders & acts like it trying to lock up you give it more gas & it kind of wheel hops. If you put it back to neutral & rev it up & try it again sometime it works ok & somtimes it still acts up. But when its cold before you get to much heat built up in it it works fine. Checked the fluid & its rihgt on full. Would it help to put synthetic fluid in it insted of reg. atf ? I't also shifts pretty firm & I put a new tps sensor & that helped a little on the firm shift part. Need help with this if anyone as any ideas.!!!!!!!!!!!
  • when you replaced the cable did you put the return spring back on the throttlevavle with ou that there the vavle can not return all the way putting it back to 1st
  • John451:

    Has your Dakota always performed as you described or is this a recent development?

    Your comments caught my attention because I am currently using my Dad's 2003 Dakota SXT with same engine and transmission as you have. Dad is in rehab for physical therapy and I have been using/exercising the Dakota. Yes, it has all the trademarked "rough around the edges" characteristics of a Chrysler Product: ie; Poor fit and finish, engine that operates normally, but roars like a machine shop, and is especially noisy when sticking in the reluctant low gear...I absolutely hate to drive this vehicle because it handles like a slug, thus becoming a road hazard. I thought I was just spoiled by the super handling and refinement of my own Honda, personal vehicles. But you have also noted this drive line flaw in the Dakota, so perhaps it is normal?

    I have only known poor, sluggish performance from this vehicle since using it during the past several months. Anyone else know if sluggish shifting is normal on the Dakota? Will be interesting to see what others have to say about their own experience with the 2003 Dakota drive train.
  • One thing I found was my Throtal cable was broken. Once that get replaced it will go on the computer for a complete analysys. I am hoping everything works out. I will let you know when I know someting.
  • Did your engine increase speed in response to the accelerator peddle even though the throttle cable was broken?
  • Friday I just bought a used 2007 dakota quadcab st 4x4 3.7L with 49,500 mile on it. Today whin I lift church it would not shift out of first. I drove about a mile to a shipping center's parking lot to see if it need fluid, it was fine and no leaks. So I decided to put it in 4 wheel high and back to 2 wheel to see if that would get it to shift. It drove fine all the way home. Any idea what is wrong?
  • Did you turn the truck off when you checked the fluid? If you did then you rebooted the computer. I have a similar problem with a 2001. It can get stuck in one gear then when you turn it off and back on it will reboot the computer. Or it may be a linkage problem in which case it resolved itself when you put it in park and then shifted back to drive.
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