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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems



  • my truck was being pulled in neutral, when i was getting to the stop light i started braking and had to brake hard to stop. after that the trucks back wheels are stuck and wont move. i lifted the rear end up and they spin but not being in neutral it doesnt move at all. :( any one know what it could be????
  • My 2000 Dakota, with the V6 engine has just started to act up when traveling at 80 to 90 kilometers an hour, it seems like the transmission is slipping for a second or 2. The tach seems to Rev up about 200 RPM's at the same time. Anyone have any ideas?
  • Hello, I just bought a 2000 Dakota quad cab 4x4 SLT with the 4.7 V8. The truck is in great shape and looks to been cared for. I noticed a clicking noise right after the truck is shifted into drive. The clicking onlt clicks for a second or so the stops. It not very loud but I noticed it. Anyone know what this might be or is it anything to worry about. The trans seems to shift good when driving.

  • I have a 93 Dakota 2WD 3.9 V6 Automatic 130,000 miles.... Transmission fluid and filter is fine... All gears shift smoothly except it will not shift into overdrive at all... It just started a couple weeks ago, once in a blue moon it will shift into to overdrive but when you let off the gas it will shift out...
    ** i get a code 45
    Governor pressure solenoid circuit.,Overdrive solenoid circuit.,Governor mid-pressure malfunction., Overdrive switch low.**
    And a Code 37
    Transmission temperature sensor detected no temperature rise after start.**or Transmission temperature sensor voltage too low or too high.**or Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement.**or An open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit.**

    Can any body tell me what parts or sensors i need to replace to get my overdrive back ,,i need my overdrive..... Thanks
  • Hello everyone.

    I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota Regular Cab that I have some tranny issues with. Yesterday, the check engine light came on and I retrieved the transmission DTCs after scanning it. They are as follows: 1790, 0731, 0731, 0733, 0734, 1793. When the light came on, the truck seemed to want to keep moving after coming to a stop and nearly stalling. I got the truck back to the garage and pulled the pan...the fluid is clean but smells a little burnt, the filters are clean and there were zero shavings on the magnet.

    After sitting for about an hour, the truck ran and shifted fine, but once it was driven for about 40 minutes in regular traffic, the problem began again.

    The truck is lifted with 35 inch tires, but the TCM and PCM were both reprogrammed by Dodge to match the tire requirement.

    Has anyone else had this problem? If it were a mechanical problem inside the transmission, I would expect it all of the time, instead of just when it has been run for a period of time.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I do not feel like dropping a grand for a new tranny.

  • Ok. Here is what happened with my Dodge Dakota. After taking it to the dealership and bitching to Chrysler, They agreed that they have some issues and paid for most of the new transmission for me. My end was about 1200. Now I have the 3yr 100,000 mile warranty on the transmission.
  • Cmitter99,

    You had the same problem as I am experiencing? I bought the truck used, so I am not sure if Chrysler will be as willing to work with me on the issues. Did they say what the actual problem is? I am somewhat leaning towards the TCM, but trying cheap fixes first.
  • Hello,
    I was out of town and I developed a loud "whirring" sound that would go away somewhat after it had been idling for awhile. This went on for the week. When I was on my way back into town, I started to get a rev anytime I slightly increased or decreased my speed. Anything above or around 2000 rpms usually, nothing lower. Welp, the noise stopped. The idler pulley sheared off and I had to wait for my friend to come and bring me a new one along with a new belt. I replaced the idler pulley and belt. I got back on the freeway only to find it revving again (about a 200 rpm surge) around 60 to 80 miles an hour (1900-2300RPM) while just barely giving it gas, sometimes my foot is steady and it will do this. When I got home, I replaced the tensioner pulley thinking it was bad and also added 24 ounces of Lucas Oil Transmission Stop Leak fluid to the tranny. I drove it around only to find it doing the same thing again. I can floor it and not have any rev issues. I can drive under 60 or so and it won't do it either. Do I have a vacuum leak or a slipping tranny??
  • Help!
    Got truck stuck and after getting it out, trans is stuck in drive in every gear range P R N D. It will run fine in drive and shift out but will not come out of drive even in park and reverse. Any suggestions?
  • This code P0876 has come up a couple of times. If I clear the code the truck runs
    fine for a day or so. Wen it come back it is hard to get up a hill. Does anyone know
    where the sensor is located.
  • I have a Dodge 2002 Dodge Dakota Sport Quad PU. The truck just started with the same problem described by yta88. Can you tell me if it gets worse or does it stay the same? Does anybody know if this damages the transmission running it in this condition?

    I want to go deer hunting in VA and it is a 3 hour drive on the highway. Don't want to get stuck on the side of the road. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • What has happened here is the forward clutches have welded themselves to the steel plates inside the unit. Happened to mine as well, ended up replacing trans. If you do a lot of off roading then i recommend upgrading to the A-518 transmission out of the 5.2 dakota. That is if you can find one out of a 96 and up since it is computer controlled. So what you would need is a 46RE. Same case, beefier parts.
  • I'm thinking about buying a 1991 Dakota but the guys telling me that it wont go into 4WD but it drives otherwise. He says he thinks its a vacuum line, but a friend of mine says that a 91 wouldnt have vacuum lines and that it could be a multitude of things, like: bad transfer case, cv axle, driveshaft, front axle, or spider gears. So I'm kinda stuck wondering. Any idea what it could be from any recalls or known problems from that year? And around how much would those things cost me? :confuse: Thanks.

    Just in case: its a 318 V8. How can I tell if its the LA motor or a Magnum? Should it have the badges on the fenders if its a Magnum or does that not matter?
  • Hey i have a 98 Dodge Dakota, 5.2L V8 Sport.. Automatic Trany.. With About 111,000 original miles. The transmission has been acting up.. Doesnt want to shift out of 1st.. For example at a stop sign ill stop then excellerate.. it gets stuck in 1st and revs up to about 3500-4000 rpm before shifting into second.. Checked the trany fluid, its pink and full... What can be the problem?
  • mill5mill5 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem, mostly in the cold (I live in Toronto) or if it hasn't been run for a couple of days. Dealer said same thing to me. Doesn't seem to be related to the doors though. Have you figured out a solution?
  • I just bought a used 02 Dodge Dakota 4X4. It is hard shifting out of 1st and 2nd but doesn't do it all the time. Now it seems like it doesn't want to move quickly when starting out but drags. Please tell me what to look for. Should I take it to a transmission guy? I'm afraid they will rip me off. I'm a 44 yr old single mom.
    Have pity on me!!! Help!!!
  • Hi to all. I am a new member. I have a 98 dakota 4x4 truck with a 5.2/318 auto/od. The truck pulls great and shifts fine in the warmer months but in the late fall/winter/early spring, until you let it warm up 15 to 20 min. it will not shift till you get the rpms up around 3000/3500 and have to be going down hill. I have changed out trans fld./filter and after this it worked a while then went back to old way. I love this truck it has done alot for me. I bought it used and this did not happen till a year after i bought it. Thanks to anyone than can help! (?)
  • To add to my last i forgot to tell you that it has the problem shifting out of 2nd to 3rd. thanks
  • I followed your advice and removed fuse # 8, which allowed shifting out of park. I then made 300 mile highway trip, but check engine light eventually appeared. Why does fuse pull solve park problem? Is check engine warning light connected or just coincidence?
  • I have a 1998 dakota with a v-6 engine. The overdrive does not work properly when it gets hot. It works normally when cold and through warm-up, and for a while once it's warmed up. After it gets real hot overdrive begins to not work - At first if I release the accelerator pedal it comes out of overdrive, upon stepping on the pedal it goes back into overdrive. I'm certain it is not the torque converter clutch. If I keep the pedal steady it will continue staying in o.d.. Once released it will come out again. It gets progressively more sensitive to pedal pressure. This may continue for a while longer and will eventually reach a point where it does not go back into o.d.. I was an A.S.E. Master Certfied Technician for many years and worked on a lot of transmissions during that time, but it's been years since I was in the business. I can't ever recall a problem such as this. I'm thinking there may be something in the valve body that's sticking when it gets hot, but i'm not sure. There was an o.d. fault code P0783 - 3-4 shift malfunction. If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it.
  • I also have a '98 Dakota but with a v-6. I'm not sure if the transmissions are the same or similar, but you might try seeing if there are any fault codes - If you haven't already. Advanced Auto Parts will extract them for free. I have another o.d. shift problem with mine, but experienced the same 1-2 shift problem. It may be the speed sensor mounted in the tail shaft housing of the trans. My speedo currently works at times, my ABS and Brake lights are on intermittently. When they were on the speedo didn't work until 20 mph, and the trans would not shift into second until the speedo kicked in. However, I replaced the trans speed sensor and it fixed the 1-2 shift problem, but did not fix the speedo problem. There may be a wheel speed sensor problem which is causing the speedo/ABS light problem. Anyway, try the speed sensor - It cost me about $15.00 for the part.
  • :mad: i have a 2002 dodge Dakota with the 4.7 v8 and sometimes when i shift into gear and try to take off it seem like the truck don't wont to go it feels like it is low on fluid but when i check it. it is full what could be the problem
  • my speedo works good and the trans shifts good but it acts like it don't wont to take off most of the time its just in the morning or if the truck ant been drove for a few hours.
  • Hi, i have a 94 dodge dakota... my trans is leaking, i believe when i drive.. when putting the truck in drive, it goes right into gear... now if i try and put it into reverse it takes a while before it throws itself into gear... when i driving the truck it doesnt like to switch gears< i have to rev the rpms up and then release the gas inorder for it to switch into another gear.. and between 50 and 70 mph the transmission makes a funny banging noise... i can put the drive in overdrive but it doesnt make much of a difference... it kinda feels as if thge truck doesnt know when to switch gears... Please if anyone can help, im trying not to have the transmission rebuilt, if its something i can fix id rather do it...
  • timm3timm3 Posts: 1
    As I come to a stop, The truck stalls, I have been told it is the solenoid? If so, how complicated is the replacement
  • 2003 V6 4WD AUTOMATIC: When I first start my truck it seems like it is taking off in higher gears causing the truck to be sluggish, after its warms up I can restart the truck it will shift down and go again but it will start slipping from 3 -4 for about 3 -4 seconds

    any ideas &#150; thanks
  • I have a 2002 Dakota 3.9L V6, I don't know what kind of trans. Sometimes it won't want to shift out of 1st, not until I hit about 2500-3000 RPMs, then it will shift into 2nd, and continue normally, but that's only if I maintain fast acceleration. If I don't accelerate at a fast rate, it'll drop back into 1st and the RPMs will skyrocket. When I finally DO get it to shift into overdrive at about 40-45 MPH, it won't downshift into first when I come to a stop, like at a traffic light. What I have to do is put the gear selector into 1, accelerate, put it in 2, then at about 10-15 MPH, release the gas, and put it into D and everything is fine.

    This problem is accompanied by the engine light. The codes are: P1757, P1762, P1763, & P0138. I went to an aftermarket shop and they replaced the trans governor pressure solenoid, and the governor pressure sensor. They told me that there was nothing unusual found in the trans when they dropped the pan, and that the codes 1757 and 1762 went away after this repair. Unfortunately the same shifting problem came back.

    When I brought it back to them, they told me that it was the PCM. When they tried to replace it, they couldn't program it, and I told them to give me my truck back, and now the ABS light is flashing and beeping. :mad: Well, I replaced the PCM, and guess what, that didn't fix it either. :cry: The ABS light is still flashing, however, the P0138 code is gone. P1763 is the only code remaining. P1763 - Governor pressure sensor volts too high.
  • I just bought a 2003 4X4 V6 3.9 with automatic transmission. I had a check engine light come on with a code related to a governor? Also, It has just started slipping first gear from a dead stop. I can give it more gas and it locks in. Also it won't downshift correctly when I push the petal to the floor.

    When I manually run it through the gears everything works fine. Reverse is working well.

    I've been reading about TPS switches, sensors and a governor valve. Any idea with where I should start?
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