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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems



  • purrjpurrj Posts: 5
    Hi, thank you. I went to a new mechanic and he gave me the same news, although he did use an additive which seems to have almost alleviated the problem. He said if it didn't work within the first 1oo miles, then I need an overhaul. He quoted $1200. Is that about right? I trust this guy, but still just checking. the truck is a "97 and has 54,000 miles on it. I know the additive is a temp fix. Can I get a used transmission for less? I plan on selling the truck in a year or so, and want it running properly before I sell it. Thank you!
  • obtampa1obtampa1 Posts: 1
    I, too, have a 2005 Dak & exactly like yours, srs49, mine will do it when I first pull out in the morning and then shifts like a top for the rest of the day & it sometimes doesn't even do every day when I first pull out. The only time it ever repeated the problem in a single day was when I was pulling a heavy travel trailer. Did you guys ever have the tranny looked at? were u told this was just normal for this vehicle? I'm worried that I might damage the tranny (further?) if I tow the travel trailer and the problem is just a little more persistent.
  • I did have Certified Transmissions look at the transmission, on the rec of several where I work. I think they're pretty good, but were unable to diagnose the issue with certainty. They replaced a 'cheap' part for around $250, but that didn't resolve the problem. Next they gave a 50-50 chance of fixing it with the replacement of the 45RFE shift soleoid - about $600. I declined. I discovered if I start out in D2, and run it through 1st and 2nd before shifting into D, I never hit the rough shift. So I've been doing that, buying some time and hoping to come across a better plan than replacing $600 parts hoping to hit the right one! I avoid pulling heavy stuff like the boat as much as possible. The truck is a 2004 quad, and is approaching 140k miles.
  • dewittedewitte Posts: 3
    Updated from #817 - Today I started in 2 instead of D and it shifted fine and then when I got around 35, I switched to D and it shifted into drive without issue. However, if I slow down to maybe 10 - it stays in 3rd so I put it back in 2. This seems to work for now. I might try re-changing the fluid/filter again next week just to see if driving it has flushed out more grime. I tried adjusting the TV cable, but it didn't seem to make a difference. I guess I've always wondered what it was like to drive a manual shift with the shifter on the steering wheel, so now I kind of know.
  • Final update: my trans (46re/2001 dak/5.9) is running great! There must have been some residue in the trans that had to flush out over time. I have noticed that the TC lockup tends to work better in warm weather, but in any case it is 1000% better. Thanks to all and esp. Dasboot72 for all the help.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    No, the tranny has never been touched or looked at. Like I said, it only does it on occasion.
  • cactus93cactus93 Posts: 10
    After balancing the tires, I now can tell it is definitely a transmission problem. Took it back to dealer and now they are saying its the torque converter. Can it be just the torque converter or transmission also. I'm getting mixed advice, some say transmission is making torque converter go out and others are saying the problem is only the torque converter.

    Please advise.
  • cactus93cactus93 Posts: 10
    Hi, I need your advice on this please.

    I Have a 2000 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7L 4X4.

    In my earlier post the advice I was given by the dealer and one transmission shop was that my torque converter was slipping during interlock. The problem was more noticeable after my tires got balanced. When truck in neutral or at any speed smooth, no tire balance problems. Now in an attempt to get a third opinion, one shop advised that I have a clogged fuel injector. They claimed computer showed, pass side bank was running a little rich. He concluded the torque converter was not bad after getting the truck to breakdown or sputter without the interlock engaged at any speed as long as motor rpms were below 2500. Now I can feel it too. He advised STP fuel injector cleaner at a high concentrate and blow it out on the freeway. After doing just that with no change in sputter (actually after a few passes on the freeway with a very heavy foot it sputtered worse). After that he felt a clogged injector or failing injector was the problem. I bought two injectors and he put them in, no change, he moved them and still no change.
    **Please note that during all this I have no engine code.
    He also replaced the TPS, no fix. Another mechanic felt that one of the coils might be breaking down. I bought one and put it in and test drove it in all 8 positions, no fix.

    To date, the symptoms and attempted fixes have been as follows:
    First felt vibration at 45 mph
    Started feeling it more, went to dealer.
    Drove a week and began to feel more noticeably.
    After fuel injector cleaner, no fix, maybe worse.
    The problem feels like a very week spark or misfire below 2500 rpms, also slight sputter or hesitation during hard acceleration.

    First Diagnostic:
    Transmission fluids slightly dirty, had them change it.
    Old worn plugs, changed myself with exact replacements and proper gap settings (0.40).
    Tires out of balance, Balanced them.
    Flash Updates for ECM and TCM, updated them.
    Went home $450 lighter, still not fixed.

    Second Diagnostic:
    Torque Converter slipping during interlock. Both stated by dealer and first tranny shop.
    or possible bad TCM (no codes)

    Third Diagnostic:
    Got engine to "misfire or sputter" without interlock engaged, not torque converter.
    Clogged injector, ran truck hard with double dose of STP, no fix.
    Bought 2 injectors and moved them around, no fix.

    Fourth Diagnostic:
    Possible bad or faulty coil, bought one and played ring around the motor, no fix.

    Please help!!
    Currently I'm out over $600 and fells worst than when I started.
    No OBD codes.

    Thanks for your help,
  • instinct1instinct1 Posts: 1
    hey everyone new to the sight and would first start off wth a hello! ive been searching through the threads for most of the night and i like how there is so much information. But unfortionetly im not finding anything for my issue so here it goes.

    Memorial weekend I got stuck in a clay mud hole, was rocking it back and forth in OD D 2 1 4HI 4L just to get out and had to get pulled out. Drove down to the river, washed up. drove back fine.. Started it up late to go some where but put it in any of the gears including reverse, put on the gas and wouldnt move. Or it does after I shut i off then it engage a gear but for such a short time. Then its like its in neutral when it is in R OD D 2 1.. Tried driving it but it is high reving like it isnt shifing into gear. Checked the fluid, its still pink but smelled kinda burnt. I am thinking im going to have to do a tranny rebuild, but my buddy and I were doing research tonight and it seems like its a electrical issue maybe a sensor. What do you guys think?
  • jordanlefjordanlef Posts: 1
    i have a 200 dodge Dakota 3.9 v6 i started to notice that my RPMs are jumping 200-500 wile driving. i took it into shop there is no codes at all and they want me to let them do an 80 dollar inspection after spending 200 on pulling codes and time and stuff. i just wanted to see if anyone new what was going on because if i have to replace or get a over hall done on it i dont wana have to spend the money to get them to look at it to tell me the same thing.. if anyone needs more information or has any idea what might be wrong please let me know.

    the last time i brought it in they said it could be some shifting solenoid. i dont know how much that will be and if someone knows its not that please contact me
  • Looking for a little help with my 05 Dakota V8 4WD auto trans. At times, especially when it is below freezing, I will start the truck and put into drive, the transmission will not shift out of 1st gear. It will stay in first gear even up to 3500RPM and it almost feels like the trans is slipping because the truck is barley moving. After the engine runs for a couple of minutes the transmission will start to shift properly. The condition has worsened and is doing it more often, even in hot weather. I can tell right when I start the truck that it will not shift because there is a high pitched whirring sound and until the sound goes away, the truck will not shift out of first gear. The dealer can't seem to recreate the problem so they won't do anything. Anyway, my problem is sporadic and I'm hoping someone knows what it might be or has had similar. Thanks for any info!
  • Hello, I had the same problem lasted a few months, then i couldnt put it in park so i took it to a shop. They took of the trans. pan and they showed me that the push rod to shift the trans was bad, It went in but did not come all the way out. Then they showed me a lot of the parts inside was very loose and need to be worked on. they offered to rebuild it but its almost the same price as a new one. But i think im gona get a new one. good luck.
  • crathbuncrathbun Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    I have a 2002 dodge dakota and it will shift gears fine if i drive casually and dont get on it but if go to punch it or try to get up to speed to quickly its like it kicks out can punch it and the rpm shoot up like normal then they stop and the rpms go down slowly and your speed starts decreasing all while you have your pedal mashed to the floor but if i let off and let them the rpm go down to like 1500rpm or so its like normall again. If i slowly press on it i can get up with it still shifting fine through every gear... and if i give it a lil bit to much gas when i go to pass someone or get up to speed it does the same thing and it wont pop up a code until i keep the pedal pressed for a while then it a tps code and i have already replaced that since this has happened
  • dischedische Posts: 1
    This low mileage vehicle has had the problem since new.

    The transmission moves through the gears and locks into overdrive in a normal way but a mile or two – or five down the road the tachometer will start to slowly rise by 500 to 600 RPM. It appears the O/D has slipped out of lock-up for no apparent reason. It doesn’t jump out of O/D, it drifts out of O/D as if the torque converter is slipping.

    I can lock it up again by: 1) turn the O/D off and back on. 2) pull the gear shift down to 2 and back up to 3. 3)stop the vehicle and restart the journey. All effective in re-locking the O/D but all very temporary.

    This condition does not set any codes. Three Dodge dealers have tried to fix. The throttle position sensor has been replaced. On the advice of Chrysler hot line the last dealer replaced the computer control module.

    Two months ago Chrysler hot line told the dealer to find a similar vehicle and compare it’s performance to mine. Nothing has happened since and I assume everyone is just waiting till my 7 year power train warranty expires. I have written to Chrysler 3 times but their response is always that I need to rely on my dealer for service. I’m open to any and all suggestions.
  • I am having problems with my truck going into reverse only when it feels like it. I got in it this evening it went right into reverse. I drove it around the yard parked in the same level spot and now i have no reverse again and you can hear a slight grinding as if it were trying to engage and it just cant... Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I really love this truck but dont want to break the bank trying to fix it since i just installed this tranny 6 months ago... Thanks
  • scabrerascabrera Posts: 1
    Hello everyone!! I have a 2008 Dakota TRX4 4.7L engine. Only has 30,000 miles. Bought the truck used at 27,000 miles. I have just noticed that the truck Jolts forward while idling with and without the AC on. Also, at times when shifting into Reverse the truck Jolts and makes a loud sound. I don't know if anyone has had this issue before. Took the truck to the Dodge Dealershipt for the Reverse issue. The Dealership said the tranny was fine and no codes. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • mike1976mike1976 Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    my 1997 dodge dakota has the engine light on and the codes were po753 and po743 I need some help on trying to get this fixed without going to the shop no money to spare. The truck revs high and seams to be missing 1st gear after it is moving it does shift up and down but not into first.
    I was told that if I take the transmission pan off I should be able to get at the solenoids and replace them. how do I tell which one is bad, can I ohm them out?
  • mine did the very same and it was the throttle positioning sensor.
  • sbode2sbode2 Posts: 2
    I need to advise. my 1999 dodge dakota will not go pass 20 miles a hour. what would cause this?
  • kent23kent23 Posts: 2
    a speed sensor normally doesnt let ur tranny shift at all
    stays in 1st gear
  • e23e23 Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 2004 4.7l V8 4x4 Quadcab. I have 30,000 mile and 3 months left on power train warranty. When I have to come to a quick stop say for a traffic light changing, my truck will not finish downshifting until after I have come to a stop. Once truck is stopped, I feel a significant shudder and truck may even lung forward (only slightly). I had this problem diagnosed and repaired by dealer, but what they fixed, did not fix problem. First, I should mention, that when test driving with mechanic, when we turned o/d off, problem seemed to go away. O/D back on, problem came back. Mechanic seemed to focus on 4th to 3rd downshift and not so much the shuddering at the stop. He replaced a solenoid pack and said problem was fixed. I noticed the signs of trouble coming back almost immediately. 2 weeks later and I can definitely get truck to shudder again when stopping rather quickly (normal driving). I am wondering if anyone has any insights on what is really going on, so I can mention to dealer when I bring truck back in. I would like to get fixed before warranty is up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • kimmytkimmyt Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Dakota 6cyl 4wd....It wont shift out of 1st gear. I still have reverse. the fluid is full and doesn't smell burnt....does this sound like a fixable problem or do I need a new transmission....PLEASE HELP
  • I have a 2000 Dakota 4x4 4.7L that blew the front transmission seal. It is at the dealer and the dealer is saying that they have to replace the front pump and the torque converter because seals don't "just blow like that without a reason." Dealer is saying the reason the seal gave way is the bushings have gone bad in the pump which will also tear up the torque converter...hence it all needs to be replaced. I have had no major symptoms of the converter going bad before the seal gave slippage or anything like that. I have changed the transmission fluid about 2 years ago so maintenance has always been on schedule. Dealer wants an arm and a leg to fix it and I'm wary of them ripping me off.
    Anyone have an opinion??
  • mecncmecnc Posts: 3
    I'm just curious as to what is the additive your meachanic used? Thanks.
  • purrjpurrj Posts: 5
    I checked the receipt, but he didn't name it. Will try to find out. It's been 4 months and truck is still shifting great, although he thought it was a short-term solution. I think it was some kind of sealant, but will let you know if I find out. It was only 15 bucks.
  • lhendricksonlhendrickson Posts: 2
    edited August 2010
    I have a 2000 dodge dakota sport atomatic 3.9 V6 with 156000 miles on it. When I put the tranny into drive it takes a few seconds to engage and then it slams very hard. When you put it into reverse you can hear the tranny engage but the truck will not move on its own but you can push it like it is in neutral.
  • More on this, if I raise the rear of the vehicle and put it in reverse the whole drive train will spin but you can stop it with your hands. If you put it in drive it seems like it is moving normally.
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