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65/66 mustang the only stang worth a damn



  • ballparkballpark Posts: 41
    I had the opposite problem with my Hookers. They cleared the drivers side no problem (65 coupe)
    but rubbed the passenger side shock tower. Installed some Hedmen tri-ys. Too bad too. Top of the line ceramic coated Super Comps just sitting in my garage all boxed up. When I take it in for it's paint job I'll have the body shop notch out that tower and install them then.
  • speedshiftspeedshift Posts: 1,598
    The problem with headers that don't fit is that, at least in my limited experience, headers don't make enough difference to be worth the trouble. I put some headers on a '61 Chevy 348--this was thirty years ago--and open the car felt slightly quicker but capped there was no difference.

    Maybe if the engine had been more radical--more cam and carburetion--headers would have made more difference but you've still got to hook them up to an exhaust system that won't get tickets.

    The hi-po 289 came with streamlined iron exhaust manifolds and I think they repro them now. That's how I'd go. At least you know they fit.
  • ballparkballpark Posts: 41
    Headers do produce more HP and torque by themselves but you are correct that to achieve thier full potential you must free up any bottlenecks that exist anywhere else, from the intake to the mufflers and all points in between. And thier advertised HP gains are always over a stock manifold.

    Just an aside to anyone interested out thier, you don't really need to get every available last HP potential out of your engine in this car. It's so light that if you can get close to 300 HP, be satisfied with that.
    I stuck a totaly built, stroked mill under the hood (a tad over 400 HP) and aside from the ability to smoke my tires till they're bald, the car is not really able to utilize that power effectively in the real world. If I had it to do over agin I probably would've saved a few grand and stuck a 5.0 crate engine in there.

    I do have a question that hopefully someone can help me with. Since the drive train on my car is done completely I am now ready to commence the bodywork and have decided to turn my pony into an all out street rod utilizing some pretty wild looking fiberglass parts from Mustangs Plus out here in California. My question is this. How do you attach fiberglass parts to sheetmetal. They sell some shelby fender flairs (1 1/2") that I am hoping will solve a problem with my front tires rubbing against the fenders. (17" Cragar SS with 8" Falcon low profile Z-rateds)
    They also sell the entire fiberglass fender with these flares molded in. These cost more than twice as much however so I would prefer to use the "flares only" unless these pose problems that I am unaware of.

    Also, no lectures about "destroying this car", I bought it as a 6-bangar and ripped out and replaced the engine,tranny, and rear end and also the dash (new gauge clustter w/white face gauges)and shifter. So it's "technicly destroyed" anyway.
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