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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs



  • notmybmwnotmybmw Posts: 101
    Wayne....I'm curious; what's this BG MOS stuff? You a distributor? Own shares?

    Also, some comments/questions about your "suggestions":
    3.) Take a sample of the old oil and have it analyzed to see if there is fuel in the oil.

    4.) Keep an accurate record as to the mileage and the amount of oil used.

    5.) Replace the PCV valve with a new Toyota PCV valve.

    6.) Check your engine for sludge!

    Thanks for your comments.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,320
    Oil analysis:

    Oil usage rate records:
    Use them for your own purpose to support your consumption claims to Toyota

    This is a brand of additives sold primarily to car shops to use/sell to retail customers. The products are available on the internet for individuals to purchase as well; try ebay.


    Checking for sludge can be subjective. A good technique is to have the valve cover removed and see what's collecting inside. At 54,000 mi there should be relatively little there if oil changes were done on time and with good quality oils. A Toyota salesman told me he showed customers on used cars how to check by sticking his finger into the valve cover and wiping to see what came out on his finger. I assume that was through the oil filler opening. Stuff collecting on the filler cap usually doesn't mean much because it sticks up where it's much cooler and acts as a condenser for various things in vapor form inside the motor.


    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I'm speaking for djm, but he's reported many times he had his dealer change the oil every 2500 miles (twice the recommended frequency), and he does a lot of highway driving. His dealer recommended the BG additive, which I personally think is snake oil just to line the dealer's pockets. There's no way in hell his car is going to have sludge, given the very frequent oil changes, long distance driving, and no record of sludge occurring with the new 3.5-liter V6 that was introduced in the Camry in 2007.

    As I've reported before, I had a 1997 Camry with the 2.2-liter 4 that was one of the engines with the reputed sludge problem. I did all the own oil changes myself at the recommended (for severe service) 5K mile intervals or less (about 3 times a year), and had no sludge issues over the 7 years and 111K miles I owned the car. I always used conventional (dino) oil too -- no synthetics and no additives.

    This was the first car I've owned in 30+ years that never showed any loss of oil on the dipstick between oil changes. This is also true now for all 3 of my current cars: 1998 Frontier, 2004 Camry, and 2005 Camry. Only my lawn mowers now use oil!
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Posts: 101
    Now that I see BG's logo on their products.......I think I recall using one of their chain lubes (or some other motorcycle specialty product of theirs) back in my racing days.
    I agree with the other writer: I would not be inclined to use ANY product that was billed as an oil or engine life "extender" ....simply on the basis that it DOES sound like a snake oil scam. If the "normal" oil I'm already paying between 4 and 10 bucks a litre/quart for (dino OR synth) isn't already "EXTENDING" the life of my engine....then screw the whole process. May as well put Walmart crap in it and save a whole lotta dough!
    Just my two cents worth!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Agreed, and I don't think there's a manufacturer of any car sold in the US that recommends using ANY oil additives, at least according to their owners' manuals. Who knows more about the car than the people who built it? Certainly not the dealer.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,320
    >I don't think there's a manufacturer of any car sold in the US that recommends using ANY oil additives,

    I believe my car manual says no additives are needed for the oil. It says to use oil marked with the proper GM specification and that's all that's needed.
    Oils have improved greatly in the last several years.

    Re engines using or not using oil:
    An engine has to use some oil coating the cylinder walls as the rings slide down and then up on them. No oil would mean friction. The upper part of the cylinder is going to have oil burning off the wall due to the combustion. But many cars use very little. The combustion products that end up in the oil must add enough volume they replace the oil that is, in my thinking away, being used by the car to recoat the cylinder walls. There are always stories about people who drive their car under city conditions and short drives that build up byproducts in the volume of their oil. Then they take a highway trip and all of a sudden the contaminants are purged due to contstant high temperatures and in the cylinders as part of the oil coating, and when they check their oil they find the level is down. So they blame the highway driving for using oil when the car has been using oil all along and just replacing the lost volume with combustion products.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • jep56jep56 Posts: 1
    I just purchased a pre-owned 2007 Camry. Is there a way to change the "Welcome To Camry" message that appears on the stereo face when first starting the car?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Not that anyone has ever reported being able to do....
  • I have a 2007 toyota camry 4C, when I come to a stop my front end starts to vibrate and when I start accellerating the vibration stops. I noticed that when I turn off the A/C the vibration stops and when I turn it back on the vibration starts again. Any suggestions?
  • This happened in my 96 Camry LE 4 Cylinder. I believe its the Air Compressor of the A/C thats causing the vibration and when you give the car more gas it increases the pressure and the vibration goes away. I usually only noticed when I first start the car with the a/c turned on.
  • I just test drove the 2010 V-6 XLE. All the write-ups on the car talk about how quiet it is. The engine is loud, the road noise is loud and I could hear all exterior noises as though I had the windows wide open. Next I drove a BASE 2010 Highlander on the same roads and was shocked at how much more quiet it was compared to the Camry. I will spend the extra cash for the Lexus ES 350!
  • Had my 2007 Camry XLE in for the 30,000 mile service and developed a similar problem with the radio after I left. It plays but the display is blank and if I press ANY button the radio turns off. Car is 38 months old so warranty has expired but they are going to replace it under the "good will" warranty.
  • Are you aware of the TSB number for 07 Camry noisy brakes?? My 07 camry has the same squeal from the brakes.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    BR010-06 --- REAR BRAKE SQUEAK

    These are for early 2007s. If you do a Google search for them, you can read them.
  • I am ashamed to say that I bought this car. I had a 1997 and a 1998 camry 4cyl. and both were so far superior to the 2005. Before I go into this I want to mention that in about 4 instances I have accelerated onto a highway and the transmission refuses to shift up to 3rd (or 4th) gear. The car got up to 50mph and then it whines and I cannot get it to shift by pushing up and down on the accelerator. :mad: I have to let it slow down (hopefully not getting hit at the same time) and give the accelerator a few "taps" and finally it will shift up. Is this a sign of a deteriorating tranny? :( The car is low mileage and well maintained. :surprise: )

    Compared to the other 2 camrys the 2005 rides like a buckboard, is noisy and more cramped that the others.
    We also had a problem with a 2007 Camry - an oil leak that toyota refused to repair. We were 30 miles from home with no oil in the 2007! :lemon:

    Toyota is the GM of the 21st century. Good luck to those who are just finding out what Toyota has had to do to become the world's largest automaker. :sick:
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Posts: 101
    Led, I couldn't agree with you more: Toyota is the new GM.
    I, too, had a 1997 that I thought was the car of all cars. 4cyl, STANDARD transmission that I just LOVED. (I must have, I waited three months for the car to be built cause almost no one stocks a standard in this car).
    I now, unfortunately, am stuck with my 2007, which I loathe. Not just because it's an automatic, not just because my tranny did what yours does, not just because my dealer argued with me over the fix, not just because the factory didn't stand behind me either, not just because the car burns a litre of oil between changes (97 burned NOTHING), not just get the picture.
    Tell your dealer to pull up the TSB (technical service bulletin) for updating the ECM (engine control module) on your car. I'm assuming it's gonna make as big a difference as it did on mine.....(that is, once I taught the dealer where to find it and how to perform it, based on the research I did on this site and others!) If you can't find the numbers, email me:
    Good luck!
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    No, the TSB 0068-08 for updating the ECM for hesitation does NOT apply to 2005s - only 2007 and some 2008. The transmission is designed to NOT shift into 4th gear until the engine is warmed up - it is to reduce emissions. This is in your owner's manual.

    By the way, my 2010 has been perfect, and my 2007 had the TSB 0068-08 done (25 minutes to reprogram the ECU). No other issues, perfect ever since.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Posts: 101
    "The transmission is designed to NOT shift into 4th gear until the engine is warmed up - it is to reduce emissions."
    Wow........and I thought only my BMW did this!

    The other trick on my 07 Camry (don't know if earlier years do this or not) is that it itself......when going down long, steep hills where I've touched the brakes! Amazing what those Japanese can do when they put their minds to it.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    The other trick on my 07 Camry (don't know if earlier years do this or not) is that it itself......when going down long, steep hills where I've touched the brakes! Amazing what those Japanese can do when they put their minds to it.

    My 2004 with the 4-speed auto does this and so does my 2005 with the 5-speed auto -- nice feature! And it holds the lower gear(s) until you get to the bottom of the hill or step on the accelerator pedal.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    It uses you as a sensor regarding roadbed conditions, assuming you would not use braking, or your braking would resulting ABS activation, if the roadbed were not of satisfactory traction.

    Absent your using the brakes the transaxle would only downshift for the fuel cut mode.

    Great care most be taken/excersized in using engine compression braking on FWD vehicles as there is no ABS functionality to provide safety in this mode.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    We're talking dry roads here; I wouldn't think of descending an 8% grade (as is common on West Virginia roads in the mountains) in snowy or icy conditions at 55 mph!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Your "car" cannot tell the difference between dry and slick, except after the fact. So it uses you as the sensor to tell it that conditions are okay for engine compression braking.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Yes I know that, and I'm used to compression braking from driving manual transmission vehicles.
  • I am looking at 2005 and 2006 Camry's 4 cyl. with approx 50,000 or less miles. I've located at Toyota dealers both certified and not certified. Also found 1 or 2 at other dealers, small Indep. lots and private parties. I question preferable way to purchase to lessen my overall risk with purchase.

    Am I better off with best deal from Toyota dealer with pre-owned certified so I have powertrain warranty 7k/100k and 3 month/3k comprehensive warranty? or? (Does this also limit all servicing during ownership to a Toyota dealer?

    Is it advisable to have a mechanic check out any vehicle whether it is at Toyota or not. Thank you.
  • Please check tsb's as well as comments on the net about these cars. I have the 2005 and it is very inferior to the 97 that I had to sell. It rides like a buckboard. Don't buy any unless certified by reputable dealer. Don't take any chances. Good luck. :lemon:
  • a friend of mine showed me a letter from Toyota saying that they would repair the faulty rubber gas line for free. I have a 2007 and I had to fight like h--l with the dealer and the toyota organization to get it repaired. Good luck with these crates.
    :sick: :lemon:
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    Although a few have problem, just like any make, the 2005 and 2006 will be great cars, as long as they have been maintained properly. I would have any used car checked out by a mechanic. I have never bought used, so I will let someone else answer your question about buying from a dealer.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I have both a 2004 and 2005 Camry (and used to have a '97). I'm very pleased with both of my current cars and feel they are a step up from the '97.

    Regardless of where you buy a used car, it's better to have it checked out by an independent mechanic that you trust. Even if you buy the certified used car, you can have routine maintenance performed by any qualified mechanic. Just keep all of your receipts.
  • Hi! I have a 07 Camry SE v4 and this post has been a long time coming. I bought the car brand new and have always noticed a noise when driving that sounds like the engine whining. Most of the SE owners I have come across have a v6, so I don't know if this is an issue only with the v4. I have shown it to the dealer and he has not found anything wrong with it.

    Have other 07 SE v4 owners experienced the same issue ? Thanks
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