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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs



  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    It is not necessary to remove or disassemble the water pump to evaluate its condition. The critical elements of the pump are the bearings and the seals on the pump shaft. There is a small drain hole on the bottom side of the cylindrical bearing housing that surrounds the pump shaft. If the bearing becomes loose; the shaft will begin to wobble; which will cause the internal seal to leak coolant. This coolant will drip out of the weep hole in the bottom of the bearing housing. So if you see coolant stains around that hole; this means that either the bearing or the seal are failing. That would mean the pump should be replaced. You can also check the bearings by rocking the pump pulley, and feeling for side play. Good bearings will not permit any noticeable side play in the pulley. If you can feel the pulley wobble at all; the pump should be replaced.

    But if there is no side play in the pump shaft, and no sign of leakage from the weep hole; then the leakage you noticed may well have come from seepage at the water pump gasket; which is a cosmetic issue only, and which seems to be common on this motor. Toyota dealerships love to tell people that their water pump needs replacement; and "prove" that by showing them the pink stain alongside the water pump, which came from minor gasket seepage; and which usually does not even result in loss of measurable quantities of coolant.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Thanks Zanken, always appreciate your insight. One last question. What is the best way to get a good view of the pump and gasket. From on top or under the car? Thanks
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    It is impractical to try to inspect the pump from underneath the car, as there is a splash shield under the motor which would have to be removed, and many people do not have the proper equipment to safely raise and support the car.

    The simplest way to inspect the pump is from above, using a bright flashlight and an inspection mirror. The cosmetic stains which come from the gasket can be easily seen alongside the pump when looking from above, and don't require using any tools or mirrors.
  • bill344bill344 Posts: 2
    Anybody had problems with the transmission on 2007 Camrys? Mine failed completely 1,000 miles over the warranty coverage. I’m aware of a small recall when they first came out.
  • luckysevenluckyseven Posts: 134
    is it v6 or i4?
  • I have 2007 Camry CE w/2.4 L , auto tranny @ 41K miles .According to Toyota owner's maintenance schedule (provided by Toyota ) automatic transmission fluid is recommended to be changed at 120K miles for regular use ( 60 K miles if used for towing ) . I would like to hear from forum members on the following items :

    1- 120 K miles seems a bit too long , anyone changed earlier ? anybody waited till 120K and tranny is still functioning fine ?

    2- My manual warns about using any other oil but genuine Toyota ATF WS . At this point I am very hesitant to introduce a different ATF since there will be remaining old oil left in torque converter and/or cooling lines . What is the best "DIY procedure" to drain most of the ATF ? can I start the engine few seconds " in Parking" to drain further ?

    3-Did anyone use an off-the -shelf (non-Toyota) ATF and tranny is running just fine ?

    Thanks for your help in advance .
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Posts: 101
    edited August 2011
    Damned if I know........but, my scientific wild [non-permissible content removed] guess tells me that the manual should know. It DOES seem like a helluva long time to wait to change ANYTHING, but you know the old expressions......if it ain't broke, etc.

    I'm thinking there's so little actual friction between opposing parts that there are very few impurities being introduced to the fluid, so it's probably not critical to put new stuff in.

    Personally, I'd wait. (That's what I'm doing with ours; it has 150,000 kliks ......about 90k miles on it.....and still running fine.......that is, no worse than ever. :-)) Ooops, did I say that out loud?

    I'd be curious to see (by a show of hands) what percentage of you have done the engine control module swap out for crappy shifting (you know....TSB # whatever/whatever.....) vs the percentage who haven't.

    Anyone! Anyone?
  • My car has 117,000 on it and I haven't changed it yet. Plan to at 120,000 as recommended. Just asked about this when I had the oil pan gaskets replaced.
  • Mine does the same. I'm taking my car into the dealership to get it checked out since I'm still covered under the 60k warranty. If I find anything out, I'll let you know.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Posts: 101
    Has anyone tried to install aftermarket (read: GOOD) speakers under the rear deck of their '07 Camry and run into problems with interference from the trunk lid torsion bar?
    How'd you beat it?
  • Hi All,

    I started hearing squeaking noise around the Serp Belt Tensioner a week ago. I hear it during idling and louder when A/C is on. I took it to my local mechanic. This guy is very good and he is a certified Lexus mechanic.

    He told me that the Serp Belt is the problem. He changed it, but squeaking noise still continued. The mechanic then told me that we need to change the Serp tensioner itself. I changed that too. Still the noise didnt go. He told me to change the Tensioner Pulley. I changed too, but the noise is still there.

    I have already spent around $600 and I have the same issue as it was there before. Mechanic at some point said he is not able to figure out what the issue is.

    I browsed online and could see some complain that it could be water pump or alternator. I dont want spend any more money on getting a new spare part until I know that is the problem. Please advise what should I do next? Do you recommend me to take it to a Toyota dealership? I know that would be costly again for me. But if there is nothing else I can do, I can do it. It is very annoying that even after spending so much, the issue is still not fixed.

  • Harry, I had the same issue but I took a chance and changed the water pump.... that fixed the issue... even though it was not leaking, the bearing was shot and that was making the noise... to be honest, I have a 2007 and only had 19k miles and the pump went... that really ticked me off... should have lasted a lot longer then that. I changed the pump myself, took a few hrs but cost was about $65 bucks. Hope this helps.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    edited September 2011
    If your local mechanic is as good and honest as you say; he should at this point be open to negotiating an adjustment for all the money his bad advice cost you. In my 40 year career as an independent mechanic; I never would charge a client for my labor if a job I did was not successful in fixing the problem it addressed. I felt is was bad enough the the customer had to pay for the parts which were used; but it is entirely unfair for a mechanic to make a profit when his diagnosis and advice is wrong. If he is competent; these mistakes will not happen often enough to be a burden on his income; while the honesty and consideration he displays by taking responsibility for his mistakes will be more than compensated for by the increase in good will among his clients. This is a great way for a mechanic to stay motivated to improve his skills. It sounds like your mechanic could have improved his diagnostic skills and saved you a great amount of money and hassle by developing the practice of using an inexpensive stethescope to listen to the suspected parts; rather than guessing about which one is most likely to make the noise. Run that by him and see what he says.
  • 2007camry135k2007camry135k Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    I had the same issue on my 2007 Toyota Camry LE with 135k miles. Mine turned out to be the alternator. When replacing they noticed the waterpump needed to be replaced also so I went ahead and did that. The dealership wanted $1000.00 to do the work. I went ahead and had a fellow mechanic swap out the waterpump and alternator for me. I took it to the dealership because of your missed diagnosis by the mechanic. Thanks for the help on the blog. Mine has been maintence free to 135k. Mine has the original trans fluid which is supposedly good for 150K? Mine does burn a qt of oil between changes but still runs great. My one complaint is the noisy valves probably when the oil is a bit low. Anyone have issues with valves??

  • tony108tony108 Posts: 16

    Try the pennzoil ultra. I think of all the oils that I tried it is the best in terms of the noise produced by the valves.

  • I just had this same problem myself. I was driving and saw all three lights (VSC, Traction Control, & Check Engine) come on at the same time. I took the car to Advance Auto to have the code read, but it spit out 15 different codes and the worker said I would probably just need to take it to the dealer because they would be the only ones to figure out what the problem was. So I did. When Toyota dealer called to tell me what the problem was they told me it was a bad ignition coil. It only cost me $230, but I would have rather fixed the problem myself for half the cost. If I had not had them fix it, it would have cost me $100 for the diagnostics.
  • I have and it actually damaged a new speaker... I'm going to attempt to modify the bars using a pipe Bender.. I would love to hear any alternatives...
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Posts: 101
    Hey, Grinch.......
    I took my car back to FutureShop and they had another run at installing my speakers properly.

    This time, although I wasn't there to see, based on what I saw in the trunk when I got the car back, I'd say they must have removed the trunk-lid torsion bar and bent it in a vise; it had a distinct "kink" in it which allowed it to take a "detour" around the speaker magnets.

    The bend they put in made it possible for them to drop the speakers all the way down......flush with the rear deck......where they HAVE to be to produce proper base response.

    Let me know if you need pics and I'll arrange to send you a couple.

  • Yes please send or post some pics... I installed a 1/2" grommet for the speakers however i am now faced with a distorted set of torsion bars.. i can be reached at
  • Btw new torsion bars run $65 each fyi
  • petrepetre Posts: 1

    I got exactly the same problem to my Camry LE 2007 4 cylinder with 106K miles now, and can't figure out what's up with it. I think is better to keep it like this:)
  • We have the same issue on a 2007 Camry SE with the V6. I just replaced the second one at 54,000 miles (first one was around 40,000 miles as well). Fortunately, both were on the front bank and only required the expensive part (I wised up and bought the lifetime warranted one at O'Reillys Auto Parts for $85), a 10-mm socket, and a flat blade screwdriver to pry the tab off of the electrical connector. A 3-minute job. I shudder to think what will happen when one of the rear bank ones fails. I will pay someone to dismantle the top of the engine and will probably replace all three (and spark plugs at that time).
  • Hello. I am the original owner of a 2007 Camry SE that has about 75K miles on it. In vacuuming the car the other day, I noticed a wet spot underneath the front passenger seat on the base of the car. There is no visible water in from the sides and the outside is dry. There is a AC vent close by and I am wondering if it is related - maybe a clog or something. I have tried to dry it by having a wet towel on the base and the wetness comes and goes. It is not related to rainy weather and I haven't been able to nail it down to having the AC on or off. Has anyone else had this problem ? It is water for sure as it doesn't smell like any other fluid. Cannot detect color, so not sure. Please help.
  • This is just a guess but I had a 89 honda wagon which leaked onto the carpet and I pulled the carpet up around the tranny tunnel and lo and behold there is a rubber exhaust tube for the air conditioner which was plugged. As soon as I unplugged it -no more leak. Yours could be completely different.

    I would check to see if and where there is such a tube or outlet. The dealer, unless he is very strange, will try to rip u blind on something like this.

    In addition, there may be an internal memo on this situation which you can get online. Good luck.
  • Hello. The problem is further complicated because I have a bluetooth unit installed underneath the passenger seat and there is no way I can remove the carpet unless I remove the unit. Also, how were you able to unplug the leak ?
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Posts: 101
    edited November 2011
    I'm inclined to agree about your reference to "sdearlers" ripping customers blind. It's not so much that they're's that they're crooked AND STOOPID.

    Talk to most dealers about a possible TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) relating to a problem you have and they look at you like you're a spy who just broke their secret code for keeping you in the dark about ACTUAL, documented (by the manufacturer) technical defects on your car.

    Keep asking questions (everywhere, including here) before letting your dealer do ANYTHING that'll cost you money.......eventually you'll find the truth........and it'll be cheaper that what the dealer suggests!! Guaranteed!
  • I have a 2007 time-bomb also and when the weather clears up I will look at it to determine where the air cond. drain is. The leak could be coming anywhere under the dash or the part of the carpet that surrounds the tranny. I will also check for toyota diagrams on the net. Hope I can find something to help u. I am curious: just how much water or liquid is leaking? Does it slosh around or is it just damp? I'll be in touch.
  • "SB0141-08R1 APR 09 Body - Water Leaks Onto Headliner/Footwell Area", this maybe what u are looking for. Put this number into google and you might pull it up. Some discussion group members post both TSB's and Service Bulletins.
    Another website that u may find helpful is: Let me know if you find a solution. My 2007 " road hazard " has not completely fallen apart and I may need some info on this. Good Holiday.
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