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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs



  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, wanted to let you know I ordereda sensor today from Rock Auto. Hope to get this weekend. I went to Toyota tonight for an oil change and I ask if I can get under the car after they lifted it up. There was a young Tec who was very helpful and pointed out all the sensors to me. I was surprised he let me hang out under the car for quite awhile as we discussed my car. This sensor is probabally the toughest one to get at. The plug in connection is the biggest challenge as the wire runs up the fire wall somewhere and hard to see where it ends. The Tec has done many of these but thought he remebered taking apart the throttle- air-filter chamber to get his hand in from the top to reach the connector.
    The sensor has to be done from underneath.
    I'm going to have ny original mechanic do it for $30 though I don't know if he will stick with that quote when he see's where it is at.
    I'm sure he has the tools.
    Today leacing work with the car still cold the car seemed to go into a neturel mode for a couple of seconds. It seemed like the trans was acting up. I have had issues with this trans but this was a severe slip as i was hitting the gas pedal and it was like dead air.
    I'm wondering if it's all related to the sensor code?
    I'll keep you informed, thank again, chuck

    PS I know you mentioned that to reset a code it can't be done by disconnecting the battery on cars 1996 and newer. I have heard other say that too. The dealership toinght seeems to think you can. Not sure what to think.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Has anyone had to change this fuel-ratio sensor and if so did you find a easy way to reach the connector that is along the fire wall. Can't see it though. I was told I may have to remove some of the air filter assembly and throttle body assembly to make space to reach the connector. The sensor has to be reached from under the car.
    Any suggestions would be great, chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    edited December 2011
    It looks like; if you decide to do this yourself; you'll receive an initiation into the fraternity of those who have gained ultimate confidence that anything which has been put together by man or machine, can also be disassembled and worked on. The Camry V-6 is one of the most challenging vehicles I have ever worked on. Changing the spark plugs on the rear cylinder bank is a classic example of why so many home mechanics have thrown their hands up in disgust and paid a professional to do it. But the main difference why the professionals can routinely do such formidable tasks is that they have specialized tools (like ratchets with pivoting handles, wobble extensions. extensions of many different lengths, stubby handle ratchets, inspection mirrors, bright flashlights; and most of all, the confidence that methodical work, along with keeping notes of the order in which parts were removed, and drawing diagrams of how things are placed, will inevitably lead to success. They are also motivated to put their best efforts into a job because they get PAID for it. Home mechanics can always fall back on the: "Aw, it's just not worth all that work" excuse. The first time you do a job; there is bound to be wasted time and effort. But it still will be possible to reach the same result as the professionals by just carefully analyzing what needs to be removed in order to access a particular area; and taking the parts off one by one, while remaining aware of how they all go together. We professionals also go through the same process when doing a job for the first time.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Thanks Zaken, for the words of wisdom and confidence. As there is part of me would like to attempt the job I don't think I'm set up with the right tools and no lift to get under the car. It's winter here in Illinois so I think I will have a mechanic do it. Two Mechanics I know were to busy to do it this weekend so I have to wait.
    I feel I need to point out the location of the sensor to these mechanic because like you said they are challenging to locate and get to.
    One thing that is bothering me is that the new sensor I got from Rock Auto Denso 234-9050 has a wire of appox 12 inches. When I was under the car the other day with a Toyota Tec I seem to think a longer wire would be needed though I could be wrong on this seeing I never saw the connector.

    I'm trying to find out info to confirm the length of the wire for the Bank 1 sensor 1 on the v-6 2007 Camry.

    Thanks again for your words of wisdom. You are right on! chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, been wanting to give you an update on the fuel ratio sensor.

    I found time to make it to the mechanis shop I usally have sucess with on Tuesday afternoon. One of the young mechanics working there installed the sensor while I was able to watch him do the whole job. He did a great job as the challenging part was to get to the connector which is along the firewall. He took apart the air filter assembly and throttle body which he did very quickly and was able to reach down and find the connector. I was very pleased with the job which took less than an hour and would have been quicker if not for getting to the connector. I was only charged $30 which is a great deal and I tipped the mechanic $10. The code 2195 was reset and it hasn't come back.
    I'm feeling the car is responding better to shifts as far as smootheness and no heavy engine breaking. It's only been some driving around the neighborhood and back and forth to work. I will get a better feel this weekend on how much of a change this sensor is making.
    I'm wondering if this sensor has been faulty long before the check engine light came on. Also wondering if it was due to carbon build up?

    Zaken, thank you so much for all your insight. You have been very helpful and I have learned a lot. I feel I can do this job myself next time if I had to.
    Talk to you soon, chuck
  • Hi, i use a 2007 Camry V6 Model and i recently had a scan on my engine and the resulting codes are P0010, P0157, P0368 and P0393. Does anyone have an idea of what's wrong.

    Appreciate your responses.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    The definitions of these codes are:

    P0010: "A" camshaft position actuator circuit problem (Bank 1)

    P0157: Oxygen sensor circuit low voltage (Bank 2, sensor 2)

    P0368: Camshaft position sensor "B" circuit high (Bank 1)

    P0393: Camshaft position sensor "B" circuit high (Bank 2)

    This is an unusual, and somewhat complex one. If your local dealership does not have top notch technicians in computer systems diagnosis; I would recommend going to an independent shop that specializes in computer controls and electrical systems. If you don't know of such a shop in your area; please say so, post your city and state; and I'll try to come up with a recommendation for a shop.
  • Thanks Zaken!! I'm actually in africa at the moment so i'm pretty sure your recommendation of a shop won't help much. Would you by any chance know what could have brought up these error codes and how I could rectify it with the technicians here?

    Appreciate your help.:-)
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Now why would you think I can't recommend shops in Africa? Seriously, I doubt that anyone in Africa could deal with this problem; because the electronics on your car are probably not used in vehicles sold there (although I'm not 100% certain of that).

    If you can correlate the appearance of the check engine light with any particular event (like perhaps the engine being steam cleaned, or getting stuck in a flood, driving over an object in the road, or the car being dropped or damaged in transit) it would be a valuable start. If anyone was playing around with the electrical wiring; this could also have been a cause.
  • Many thanks for your response.

    Apologies for underestimating your deep wealth of knowledge. I had the car shipped in from the US and its a challenge getting good technicians around here.

    What could go wrong if these problems are not fixed??
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I wouldn't expect major consequences; but the motor would probably not run as smoothly or economically with these problems. I doubt it would shut down.

    Here's a seat of the pants approach which might be helpful: Make sure there is a ground wire connected between a bolt in the engine block and a bolt in the firewall. If that wire cannot be found on your car; have a new one made from a length of approx. 14 gauge stranded electrical wire; strip the insulation off each end, and crimp a suitable size ring terminal on each end. Then fasten the wire to an engine bolt and a bolt in the firewall.

    Make sure that the battery ground (negative) "-" cable goes to a clean bolt that threads directly into the engine, and is not instead fastened to a bracket or a painted part. Re-route the cable if necessary.

    Disconnect and spray WD-40, brake cleaner, mass airflow sensor cleaner, trichlorethylene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or electrical contact cleaner into the terminals in all the electrical wiring harness plugs which lead to things on the engine. DO NOT USE CARBURETOR CLEANER OR SOLVENTS WHICH LEAVE ANY RESIDUE. Include any plugs on the firewall that lead to the engine. If these chemicals are not available; plugging and unplugging the connectors repeatedly may remove any corrosion on the contacts. A fine file or needle nose pliers may also be used to advantage in insuring a good connection in the contacts. Be careful to not distort contacts so they do not mate well. Also disconnect the battery cables from the battery and scrape their contact faces and the surface of the battery posts with a round file, or a battery cable service tool.

    While the battery cables are disconnected; turn on all the electrical switches (ignition key, lights, heater, windshield wiper, radio, cruise control, fan, air conditioning, etc, and leave all the switches on for about 30 minutes. Then turn all the switches off, reinstall the battery cables and tighten the bolts until the cable clamps cannot be moved by hand pressure.

    After all the above work is done; use a code scanner to clear all trouble codes which are in the computer. The car may run strangely for the first few minutes after it is started; while the computer relearns the normal sensor inputs. It will then be helpful to put the car through the entire range of its capabilities; by driving until the temperature gauge reaches normal, and then accelerating at different rates, including some full throttle bursts from perhaps 30 to 60 mph; along with driving at sustained high speeds for a mile or more (if possible).

    That's all I have in my pockets at this time. Good luck to you.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi, wanted to ask when you had the scan done on your car was your check engine light on. I'm assuming it was though it was not mentioned in your post.
    I think Zaken has excellent advice. I was alos wondering do you have a remost starter hooked up in your car that could have caused an electical problem?
    Hope you find a solution, chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Is anyone else aware that when your check engine light comes on that your VSC and traction control light come on to which mean thay are not working at that time.

    To me that can be a serious safety issue seeing that drivers benifit with these features while driving on slippery pavement. Why would Toyota design these features to go out when other engine codes are present.
    I was driving my car recently with the check engine light on along with the VSC and Traction control lights on and took a sharp turn and realized the VSC was not working like it normally would. When these lights are on it doesn't say on or off.
    Thanks for any insight, chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Can anyone tell me if my Nephew's 2002 Camry that was backed into while it was in park would have any Trans issues? The car moved about 10 feet backwards.

    Thanks for your input, chuck
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If it was mine, I'd be concerned. Maybe not so much if it was on ice and I knew the tires had limited friction, thereby minimum pressure trying to turn the transmission.
  • kdk213kdk213 Posts: 4
    Had water pump failure at 22,000 miles, replaced under warranty, now at 41,500 miles and 2 yrs since first replacement the pump is failing again, am losing antifreeze and now see small spots of it on the garage floor.
    Spoke with a service tech at dealer who says until fluid leaking around the valve Toyota will not cover. So basically I have to wait for it to blow and be towed somewhere?
    E mailed main offices of Toyota USA to inquire why this is happening. There has to be something wrong with the system to have this frequent water pump failure.
    My daughter purchased a 98 corolla with 98,000 miles on it , had already been beaten to he** and she beat it up for two more years to about 150,000 miles till she wrecked it.
    This car is babied to death, maintained as instructed and still is having major failure. Very disappointed.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Posts: 101
    Invest in an AAA and keep your card handy! :)
  • Dealers are thugs. One suggestion above was to get AAA. These people have given me a really bad time for just one tow job. A local jerk sub contractor. If you want good coverage try GM motor club. I wouldn't let my cat piss on a GM product but the coverage on the motor club is pretty good. Good luck.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Instead of playing a losing game by asking the shills of a company that is engaged in systematic denial why a part with an obvious design defect has failed; the thing to do is to put them on notice that this part already failed once under warranty; and now is failing a second time. Then just buy a Cardone Select #5543165 aftermarket replacement water pump ($60.79 from; which has an improved design and have it installed by an independent garage. This will end your problems.

    The thing to do then is to hire an attorney who specializes in Lemon Law cases. Toyota is the last party to admit their errors; but the Lemon Law attorney may be able to make them pay the bill for having a properly designed pump installed in place of their faulty part. Or you can just eat the cost of having it fixed right; and publicize how you fixed it in local newspapers and TV stations.
  • kdk213kdk213 Posts: 4
    Thanks for the suggestions, the auto club membership has already been considered as my wife frequently uses this car for long distance travel.

    Of course in two days no answer from Toyota USA; like the suggestion to purchase the pump from Rock Auto, have done business with them for parts before. Not easy to find good lawyers where we live, NY State Lemon Law requires three failures I think.

    Just need to find a local garage we trust, have replaced pumps myself on older vehicles, not sure want to tackle it on this one.

    Toyota should pay for this, and should admit the problem. Of course also have a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix where it took GM over 10 yrs to admit a problem with oil leaking into the valves and possibly causing fire and put out a recall...Unfortunately it seems none of the auto manufacturers stand by their product anymore.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    You may not know that I spend most of my time on the Edmunds "Answers" forum; in which I have answered nearly 4,000 questions during the last 4 years. As part of this work, I sometimes research and recommend local garages for people who do not know of a reliable, trustworthy shop.

    If you would like a recommendation for a good, independent, local shop; please respond to this message by posting the city and state in which you live; and I'll try to come up with one.
  • I have dealt with dealer thugs and I used 3 avenues when facing this kind of situation:

    1. Write a letter to Tojo the president of Toyota in Japville and ask.

    2. Small claims court focuses their attention wonderfully

    3. Better Business Bureau: I could never understand it but many "thugs" do not
    want any attention from BBB.
    Good Luck.
  • My water pump is starting to leak at 72,000. Have been quoted $$ ranging from $850 to $1800 by dealerships.

    I am in Venice, FL. Am willing to travel 30 miles or so to find a good mechanic.

  • kdk213kdk213 Posts: 4
    live in Utica NY, 13502
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Check out ABC Auto Tech, 4411 30th St W., Bradenton, and also compare with El Potosino Auto Repair, 2509 9th St W, Bradenton.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Check out Bailey's Auto and Small Engine Repair, 4360 Acme Rd., Ilion, NY 13357 and compare to Clinton Auto Sales Services, 3723 State Rt. 12B, Clinton, NY 13323.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    Must be a V6 engine?
  • kdk213kdk213 Posts: 4
    it is not a V6, it is a 4 cylinder automatic LE
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    WOW! You should not be paying more than $300 for the pump and labor. This is a very easy job on a 4 cylinder.
  • HAve you discovered what the front end clattering noise was? I have something similar in my front end, sounds like something is loose at moderate speeds or eneven surfaces. I checked the air filter box and it was tight. I am not sure if you meant the stabilizer links were on the BMW or Camry. Thanks!
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