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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs



  • kmanchesterkmanchester Posts: 1
    edited May 2013
    My dash lit up like a Christmas tree about 9 am this morning. I was arriving to cook a brunch for some folks, so I just had to pull in and continue doing my thing. Afterwards I opened the manual to see what all this meant. (Stop the car!!! call Toyota and so on) Well it is Sunday on a holiday weekend. There is an autozone I my way home. They were open so I asked them to plug in the computer diagnostics thing. (by the way they do this for free, no purchase necessary, so do save yourself 100.00!) So, up came C1391, abnormal leak in accumulator.
    So soon at home I go on line to investigate, uh oh!!! I am not the only one here!! Now this is the begining stages for me and after reading through forums, not looking [non-permissible content removed]. In the mean time for those of you dealing with this and from what I understand shelling out major dollars. This is for you... (post your story and issue)

    Complaints, concerns and issues need to be directed to this site
    After reading several posts, I do believe we have a problem here. Please check into this if you are having this same issue. It seems to be quite apparent. God speed to all
  • leotskleotsk Posts: 13
    64000 miles water pump failed and gave to dealer for repair. While I was in dealer talked to few Toyota users and many of them had same problem.

    Called Toyota USA and they are not accepting any design issues with water pump.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    How much did the dealer charge you for the repair?
    Is this a v-6?
    What was the symptoms when pump failed?
    I have a 07 v-6 with 71,000 miles. I have had numerous problems with my Camry including alternator but water pump still ok for now.
    Toyota should back these water pumps with a better warranty. I have never opened a car where pump fails with the mileage you have.
    I hope you can get resolve through the dealership or get it fixed through a outside shop that would do it cheaper.
  • tony108tony108 Posts: 16
    I also have a 2007 Camry 4cly CE that had a failed water pump (slight leak) at 74,000mi. At that time, the dealer deemed that it was not a substantial enough leak although there's some splash of red stuff at the insulator underneath the hood (they want to see an actual drip to replace it) so good thing we had the 100,000 service warranty. Brought it to a different shop and had them replace the water pump with a toyota oem pump. 140,000mi now and have no leaks so far (knock on wood).
  • kadenakadena Posts: 6
    I had a 2007 Camry that I bought new, 4 cylinder. The water pump had to be replaced at 40,000 miles.
  • kadenakadena Posts: 6
    I had a 2007 Toyota Camry that I bought new. After I had it about one year I rolled up the front passenger window and the, window just fell out of the channel. Shortly after that I had a lot of trouble with the tire pressure monitoring system which finally resulted in having the computer replaced. At 40,000 miles I had the water pump replaced. I traded the car off at 72,000 miles for a 2011 Prius. I have had the Prius for two years and 30,000 miles. No problems at all with it.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,680
    The 2007 was the first year of a new design. I try to avoid any maker's first year of a new design for the reasons you listed, but CR does list it as having a few problem areas, and one of them is the water pump. Window and TPMS does not show up very frequently as problems for the 2007, either in CR or on the Internet.
  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 767
    I can't unlock/lock door when I grasp or touch the door handle. I have to manually push the button on the smartkey. Any help?
  • egoeregoer Posts: 2
    We have a 2007 Camry with 40,000 miles on it. Due to a defect in this oil hose, a leak developed in this hose and almost all of the oil leaked out of the engine. No warning light went on. We noticed abnormal noises coming out of the engine and brought the car to our local mechanic. We spent $400 with them as they diagnosed and tried to fix the problem. Unfortunately after spending this money they are unable to get the car to start. It is very likely the car has suffered substantial engine damage and any future diagnosis and repairs could result in thousands of dollars or repairs.

    This defect has resulted in catastrophic failure to the engine of our car. Presently our car is inoperable and sitting in our parking lot. We are not in a position to spend money to fix a problem that is clearly due to bad design and inferior parts by Toyota. In doing extensive research on the Internet, we found out this is a known defect with this oil hose. This is clearly the fault of Toyota and not us and many other Toyota customers.

    Not only that, we had been bringing this car to your dealership for regular service. Why at some point in time did the dealer not inform us and replace the defective part before it resulted in catastrophic failure of our car’s engine? This problem was unbeknownst to us but certainly was a known issue by Toyota.

    Hopeful that Toyota would do the right thing and assess and fix our car at no cost to us, we called Toyota USA. They told us to call our local dealer. We called Penn Toyota. Although sympathetic to our cause, they told us he was not in a position to help us and we should call Toyota USA. We called Toyota USA again and they told us that since there was no official recall and our car is out of warranty that they would not do anything without us paying. We spent $22,000 on this car which is now worth nothing to us because of poor design and inferior parts. This should be on Toyota to fix on their dime, not ours.

    I have been posting on Toyota USA Facebook page to let other people know about this and put some pressure on Toyota, first they were deleting my posts and now they have taken away my ability to post on their page. Quite ironic to me on the 4th of July a massive corporation is censoring me. Toyota’s refusal to do the right thing here is outrageous.
    Beware other Camry owners of this problem. It is also a problem with other Toyota models.
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Posts: 41
    Sorry to hear about your problem. This car has been recalled 3 times. What the idiots at
    Toyota did was to install a "rubber" oil line!!! You heard me right they installed a rubber
    oil line that goes from the rear(?) of the engine and alongside the manifold. My 2007 camry 6 cyl did the same as your car. I had to pay for the tow but they supposedly fixed the problem. A high
    school freshman knows that you don't run petroleum products through a "rubber" hose. Make sure they do the third "fix" and not the second because they apparently needed 3 to fix the problem. I got the dealer to fix it at no cost to me. If the slimebag dealer you are talking with
    will not fix it free then take him to small claims. Also report it to the BBB (better business bureau) for some reason or other these ripoff artists don't like to be on the net or hounded by
    the BBB. Hope this helps.
  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 767
    never mind-- i had one of the keyfobs still in the car while trying to use the other one to lock/unlock. problem solved
  • anniem4anniem4 Posts: 1
    During my last service at the dealer, manager suggested I replace my water pump because it had a "slight leak," at a cost of $650.00. Change the transmission fluid at $150.00. I felt like he was trying to scare me. That was last summer. I've had two oil changes since then and had another mechanic look at it and the mechanic says he cant find a leak so I should not worry about it. I want to go to another Toyota dealer for my next oil change and am worried that they will just use the computerized old report and tell me the same thing. How else can I have my car checked out and how much should a replaced water pump cost if I need it. I have a 2007 camry 4cyl XLE that has given me no problems so far. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • don530don530 Posts: 1
    At around 90,000 miles I too had uneven stopping, I had the rotors turned but they did not last long as I think they were warped. I went to Auto Zone and new front rotors with a two year guarantee cost $80 and since the pads were only less than half worn I did not even replace them,I replaced the rear pads only that was 30,000 miles ago and that took care of the problem. My 2007 Camry V6 is the best car I ever had and that includes many, many Mercedes. Now at 120,000 miles it is going great all I have had to do so far is change the oil and I do that every 5000miles, I do not use synthetic. I do all the servicing myself(I do not go to the dealer) My other car a mercedes uses synthetis and I Change it every 10,000 miles. The camry has a timing chain and it will last hopefully another 100,000.miles.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    edited July 2013
    I have a 2007 V6 Toyota Camry XLE with 84,000+ miles which I purchased new. I use this vehicle for my business, so as such, most of the miles are highway miles. The oil and filter has been changed every 2,500 miles by the selling dealer, (MY CHOICE), and I use an oil additive BG/MOA in the oil at every oil and filter change. ------ The engine never uses any oil between oil and filter changes. I also use a fuel additive at every fill up. (MY CHOICE). ------ Now that my Camry has reached this mileage, it has become my "back up business car!" My primary business vehicle is a 2010 - four cylinder Chevrolet Malibu LTZ. This vehicle now has 45,000 miles and it gets the same preventive maintenance. (MY CHOICE) ----- Both vehicles give me at least 30 mpg on the highway at 55 mph. (I do not use name brand gasoline, and both vehicles use 87 octane fuel!) ------ I have none of the problems that are listed on this board for the 2007 Camry. ----- I also "warm up my vehicle" on cold winter mornings prior to driving it! (HERE AGAIN, IT IS MY CHOICE!) -------{When driving it to the interstate highway, on cold winter mornings, I drive it in "manual 3" until I feel that the transmission has reached normal operating temperature. ----- Upon entering the interstate, I place the transmission into DRIVE. I have never experience the 3 to 4 transmission flare up!} ---- NOTE: ---- (I did have the flexible oil hose replaced on the engine under the extended warranty when I read about the issue on this board.) But outside of that issue, the Camry has been a GREAT vehicle. ----- Now the Camry is out of the extended warranty. I will keep the vehicle till it reaches 100,000 miles, then I will replace it with another Toyota, possibly a Camry, Avalon or a Rav4. What is interesting is that the Camry is a V6 with an six speed transmission and it easily get 30 MPG on the highway. The Malibu is a 4 cylinder with a six speed transmission and it also gets 30 MPG on the highway. What does Toyota know about engine design that Chevrolet does not know? The Toyota engine is much more powerful than the Chevrolet engine! ------ Best regards! ------ Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • hi i am having the exact same problem with my 2007 camry.... when i am stopping at a signal.... the rpm goes to 500... and hot air coming out...
    did you finally fix the problem....any help would be appreciated
  • I have owned 5 Toyota Camrys. The 2007 I currently own has 52k miles in 7 years ( purchased new in jan 2007) once I hit 50 k mi the car started using oil and the lifters sound noisy. The dealers wont accknowledge there is a problem said everything is normal. I did tell the sales manager about the problem and he played dumb even after directing him to a few websites including . I think it is a shame that Toyota is not resolving this problem. (probably due to the cost to repair and the Toyota stock price "TM" currently at $130 a share will drop like a rock. I will not be buying another Toyota in the future. So GOOD LUCK in the future TOYOTA
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,680
    try different dealer
  • 6 speed transmission.
    Transmission fluid check for 2007 Camry 3.5 liter V6 and 6 speed automatic transmission.
    This transmission does not have a dip stick. It is a sealed transmission.
    Toyota will tell you the transmission must be flushed rather than checked. This is not true.
    Toyota calls for special service tools and I suspect a person could do without them. The tools are:
    Toyota Diagnostic Tester Kit TOY220036
    CAN Interface Module Kit 01002744 (Controller Area Network for automobiles)
    Transmission Fill System 00002-11100-02
    These special service tools will most likely be out of the price range for the home user. Once again I suspect the tools are not necessary.
    Filling the transmission or topping off the transmission level is done by delivering transmission fluid into a fill hole and observing when the transmission fluid has a slow constant drain from the lower overflow plug. This must be done at specific temperatures with the engine running.
    The refill plug is on the left side of the engine transmission about 4” from the front and about 1” above the vertical center line. You can access it by turning the wheels to the far left and taking wheel well apron off with a 10mm socket. Use a 24mm socket to remove the fill hole plug.
    The overflow plug is on the bottom of the transmission fluid pan and slightly recessed. Use a 6mm hex key to unscrew it.
    Make sure your car is on level ground or elevate the car and keep it level. During the following test do not slam on the brakes while the wheels are turning and the car is on jacks.
    Circulate the transmission fluid by starting the engine in Park.
    Move the gear selector from Park to Reverse.
    Note: Allow each gear to engage fully when shifting gears.
    Move the gear selector from Reverse to Neutral.
    Move the gear selector from Neutral to Drive.
    If the wheels are free running, press GENTLY on the brakes to stop them and return the gear selector to the Park position. (stopping wheels too quickly could throw car off jack stands).
    Check the A/T fluid by allowing the engine to idle until the A/T fluid temperature reaches 102 degrees Fahrenheit. (39 degrees C) I will suggest a diagnostic tester, a digital thermocouple temperature sensor on the transmission pan or just touching the transmission pan and feeling for 102 degrees which is the temperature you would have on your forehead with a very bad fever.
    Remove the overflow plug located on the bottom of the transmission pan with the engine idling. Use a 6mm hex key. The plug seals the overflow tube. The tube extends further up into the transmission to establish the proper fluid level. Only the overflow tube plug is removed. The transmission fluid must be filled to rise above this tube and then down through the overflow tube and out where the plug is removed.
    Check that fluid comes out of the overflow tube while the A/T fluid temperature is in the range of 104 – 113 degrees F. (40 – 45 C)
    If fluid comes out, reinstall the overflow plug.
    Note: The transmission fluid could be low and the overflow tube could have a small amount of transmission fluid in it. Don’t let this fool you. Make sure the transmission fluid flows for a second or two.
    If fluid does not come out add A/T fluid. (Genuine ATF WS Transmission Fluid) by removing the refill plug on the left side of the transmission.
    Add fluid until it comes out the overflow tube.
    After the A/T fluid temperature drops below 102 degrees F, recheck A/T fluid level again by running the engine until the transmission fluid reaches 104 – 113 digress F. You can use a hose with gravity feed or a hose and squeeze bottle to put transmission fluid in the fill hole. Make sure fluid gently streams out of the overflow tube. Then reinstall the overflow plug.
    Install the refill plug.
    This procedure and pictures can be seen at

    Transmission flush.
    It is my guess the sealed Toyota transmission is subject to the same flushing conditions as any automatic transmission. You cannot remove all the fluid and then replace all the fluid. You must insert fluid as fluid drains. You can only drain a percentage of the fluid because the torque converter retains a lot of fluid.
    If you drop the transmission fluid pan you will remove 3 to 4 quarts of transmission fluid. Then you reinstall the transmission pan and add the same amount you drained. Use the above fluid check to make certain the level is correct. If the car holds 12 quarts of transmission fluid and you replace 4 quarts you will replace 33% of the fluid. The next time you repeat this same procedure you will replace 33% of the 66% that remained in the transmission from the first flush. This is as efficient as any form of transmission flush where you do not remove the transmission from the car. The percentages of transmission fluid renewal are as follows.
    Removal of 4 quarts at a time. (this could be done on every other oil change)
    1. 4 quarts or 33% of 100% = 66% unchanged.
    2. 4 quarts of 33% of 66% - 43% unchanged
    3. 4 quarts or 33% of 43% = 29% unchanged
    4. 4 quarts or 33% of 29% = 19% unchanged
    5. 4 quarts or 33% of 19% = 12% unchanged.
    As you can see, by the 5th change you have replaced 88% of the transmission fluid if 4 quarts can be changed on every other oil change.
    You will have to make note of the condition of transmission pan seal and determine if it needs replacement. You can also clean the pan and the magnets in the bottom of the pan that catch metal particles. I do not know at this time if there is a filter that needs to be replaced. Most transmission places tell me not to replace it if the transmission is functioning properly.

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