Mercury Cougar Engine Questions
My daughters 1999 COURGAR 4 days ago while driving started to just shut down...1) all the idiot lights come on like a bad alt. or battery...2) power steering gets very hard of course 3) car goes dead or shuts down...4) she waits only a few minutes turns the key car starts right up, does it again down the road ( about 4 times in 3 days)...
local mechanic CAN not fine anything wrong cars been working perfect for him ( of course)...ANY HELP OR INFO IS NEEDED THK YOU
Z'S
local mechanic CAN not fine anything wrong cars been working perfect for him ( of course)...ANY HELP OR INFO IS NEEDED THK YOU
Z'S
0
Comments
Thanks!
Shannon
Thanx,
Lmoreno3
On my 1999 Cougar, the error referring to lean banks (from PCM) are P0171 (bank 1), P0174 (bank 2).
Also, P1131 indicates that the ECM detected lean limit on bank 1
We found a disconnected rubber hose (ca. 1/3 in = 8 mm diameter). It has a 90 degree plastic elbow and plastic mounting slot on the loose end. The fixed end ends up in the transmission housing on the top, right under the battery bracket.
When blowing into the hose, trans fluid comes out of the trans dip stick.
We already spent hours trying to find where that hose connects.
Can someone help?
I have a few pics (will try to upload if possible) of the hose.
Need urgent answer (intake, battery, carb, etc are currently all off - can't use the car).
Thanks.
Volker
http://www.traudts.com//Picture/Cougar/IMG_2317.JPG
http://www.traudts.com/Picture/Cougar/IMG_2311.JPG
Hose on top of transmission case: where is it going?
« on: June 09, 2008, 02:36:23 PM »
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1999 Mercury Cougar, V6, Auto:
We found a disconnected rubber hose (ca. 1/3 in = 8 mm diameter). It has a 90 degree plastic elbow and plastic mounting slot on the loose end. The fixed end ends up in the transmission housing on the top, right under the battery bracket.
When blowing into the hose, trans fluid comes out of the trans dip stick.
We already spent hours trying to find where that hose connects.
Can someone help?
I have a few pics (will try to upload if possible) of the hose.
Need urgent answer (intake, battery, carb, etc are currently all off - can't use the car).
Thanks.
Volker
http://www.traudts.com/Picture/Cougar/IMG_2317.JPG
http://www.traudts.com/Picture/Cougar/IMG_2311.JPG
http://www.traudts.com/Picture/Cougar/IMG_2314.JPG
You might want to post in the general "No Start" Problems discussion over on the Maintenance & Repair board as well
did you ever get a proper diagnosis for your problem?
Was it in fact the IMRC???
Long time no chat. So it seems recently my gauges started going the full distance from 0 to 160 upon startup. Is this new? Has the cougar always done that? I don't think it has. All of my gauges go the full distance. Does your cougar do this? Is it possible that it has always done this, and I haven't noticed in 7 years?
That and tonight the cougar didn't start. It just clicks. I'm thinking the battery is low, though the highlights are bright and the internal stereo, lights and etc are fine. I've been warned a couple of times that the battery is low. I think that will be the first thing I change.
What do you guys think about my gauges.. am I just stupid?
Thanks!
sn5bah
How soon do the gauges show "hot"? If soon after startup, your coolant thermostat is stuck and won't open. In this case, one of the rubber hoses is hot, while the radiator is still cold.
sn5bah
Are your fans kicking in?
I live in WI so it is very cold now (Jan/09) and overheating should not be an issue; the car is producing heat in a timely fashion and it isn’t running hot. I disconnected the battery to see if I could get it to kick out the trouble code again. The check engine light went away – but came back about 2 weeks later; I ran through all of the same steps and got the light to go off again.
On my way to work this morning as I switched the heat from defrost to deforest/floor and the check engine light came on again and as it came on I remembered that this was the same thing that I was doing (switching the heat) when the light came on a few weeks ago.
Could there possibly be any connection between the heater and the check engine light?
If it is the one in the head liner ( the shape of a wrench) it is telling you that it is time for an oil change, there is a spot in owners manual to reset it. If it is the one on the left side of dash is the you need to pull the heater controls out and clean them and see if that takes care of it
Thanks,
86 Cougar
- shutoff when driving: it starts with the lights going dimmer, then the instruments go all wacky, then the engine cuts out. Daily recharging of the battery helped to get by for 1 or 2 days. At the end, we changed the alternator, which fixed it in our case
- no heat/air coming from vents (except defrost): this was going on for more than a year. This week we had to take the engine apart (white smoke, fouled up spark plug: looked like head gasket. It is now back together; we'll see). In the process, we found a small plasctic vaccuum line broken. I patched it up by using a small (just to fit over the plastic line) and a larger (that fits over the first) shrink tube to connect the 2 broken lines. If/when the engine is running again, we will report if that solved the problem (VERY likely).
Let me know if you need pics to identify the tube which caused the problem in our case (could be any vaccum line though; vents are moved by actuators powered by the engine vaccuum; if you have a leak, the vent stays in its default position, which is "all air to the defrost").
Volker
mine is a 1999 Cougar (2.5l V6 auto). We had tons of error codes, and recently had "white smoke" and fouled spark plug, a strong sign for head gasket problems.
We finally took everything aport, had both heads flow tested and planed, did a valve job. We also removed the "internals" of the pre-cat and installed the electronic dummy parts to fool the oxygen sensor.
After everything is back together, it is working fine.
Regarding the lean running: It was likely caused by a vacuum leak, possibly from not installing the seal of the upper intake manifold correctly when we had it off a long time ago.
We also found a broken vac line which caused the vents to not operate (air only coming out of defrost nozzles). Shrink tube and electrical tape to connect the broken line fixed that, too.
The only real problem left is now: the starter "grinds", it does not slip into the flywheel. We replaced starter about a year ago, but the problem soon came back.
The only way to get it going is to switch gear into drive, then wiggle the car back and forth (in the hope to move the flywheel a bit to let the teeth of the starter engage).
We are looking for a rigged solution to move the flywheel to allow the starter to engage. I don't think changing the starter will do any good. And changing the flywheel sound like a major job.
Volker
Johny
Post results soon.
lmoreno3
I did it, I got under the car, pulled down the fan assembly just enought to remove and replace this resistor. Don't know the part number offhand, but I have it listed on the NECO Cougar forums.
We have both experienced this problem. When she replaced the rear Catalytic Converter's this problem went away and she had more power than we could handle.
however now as my car is doing the same thing, I got the rear converter replaced as well and the problem is NOT fixed yet. Unfortunately I am going to have to try getting the other ones out and see if that helps :S very expensive shop bill.
Get this checked out on your car! It's a very common problem on cougars according to my mechanic.