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Hyundai Tiburon Clutch Problems



  • We just changed the clutch out on a '03 Tiburon. Changed the Flywheel, Disc, Pressure plate & release bearing. Less than a 1000 miles later its doing the same thing. We tried adjusting the free play on the pedal and it fixed it for a little bit while testing.

    It still doesnt release disc completely. When in gear and releasing the clutch it luggs engine properly with 1" - 1 1/2" of pedal release, but still doesnt allow to shift into gear.

    My question is...... since the pressure plate is a pull type design, is there a possiblity that the release fork is pulling the release bearing off center causing the disc to not release evenly? Is there a way of adjusting the release fork?

  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    The system is actually a push type system which uses the clutch master, to build pressure, to activate the clutch slave cylinder, which presses a rod against the fork, then the clutch fulcrums on a ball inside the bell housing, which in turn moves the Throw out bearing against the pressure plate fingers, releasing the clutch.
    The central problem with these cars begins with the clutch slave delay valve and spring.. (which needs to be removed).
    The one thing I am concerned about it you could have a slightly bent input shaft, which causes the friction plate to jam slightly with either the flywheel face, or the clutch pressure plate itself.
    It is a possibility, or it the throwout bearing fork and related hardware are bent, or damaged.
    Alignment is crucial, and so is adequate tightening of parts.
    There could be a burr on the flywheel surface where the bolts connect to the Engine crankshaft causing a slight "tilt".
    The Pilot bearing could be misaligned.
    The replacement parts are Reconditioned (rebuilt) and were done improperly.
    The clutch and all its parts may not all be correct.
    The disk might be ok, but the throwout bearing is wrong.. or the pressure plate is wrong for instance (and a couple different ways back and forth with all these parts).
    If the engine LUGS that means there is a connection still occuring at the disk.. so there is definately a problem with the transmission being allowed to "free wheel".. which is what the clutches job is. (release).
    Obviously, the clutch needs to be disassembled again.. :(
    I am not sure if you did the clutch, or someone else did.. but just go back through it, and be SURE all torque settings are correct, all parts are smooth and ALIGNED.. with a slight amount of grease put into the clutch disk splines, and the throwout bearing sliding surface.
    Use High temp grease if possible.
    Hope this helps. ;)
  • With ya'll in the same boat.. I have an 04 Hyundai Tiburon GT and at 125k the clutch pedal wouldn't spring all the way back up when released and there were terrible grinding noises. Took it to the dealership and they said it's the clutch, bearings, and flywheel. $2300. Friggin' Korean car!!!!!
  • I have a '99 Tiberon. When I hit 60,000 miles in 2008, my clutch first went out and was told I needed to replace it. So I did. 9,000 miles later (13 months), it was doing the same thing again. I had to pay another $60 for them to bleed the line and change the clutch fluid. Now, 21,000 miles later (2 more years), it's happening again and they are telling me I will need a new clutch AGAIN, at my expense of $950. My question is, don't these official Hyundai dealerships have to be held accountable for the work they do? How can they just turn around and say that and not have any accountability for the defective crap they are putting in my car? Has anyone out there ever had success getting the dealership to man-up and take responsibility for these [non-permissible content removed] clutches? :(
  • mud63mud63 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Tiburon. My clutch went out, well it is slipping, I can drive it, as long it is a short distance. As soon as it gets warmed up It starts to slip. Anyway I have 130,000 mile approx. a little less but close enough. I think my clutch lasted fairly well. I don't do a lot of highway driving. I have 15 stop lights and then 6 stop signs everyday to work. So I believe I have or had a great clutch. I am not a slow driver, I blend through traffic very well. I am praying that the new clutch kit I put in works as well. give me 5 years and I will be happy. I just need to know if it matters if I put in a slightly different size disc, will it matter. I guess I need to check my owners manual to see what size clutch plate etc. is factory for my car. Disc mm: 215; Disc In: 8-7/16; Splines Dia: 7/8; Splines: 20 is what I was going to buy. but there is another listed as standard, but what is standard? And is there a problem if I buy a 8-1/2" instead?
  • kimmiekatkimmiekat Posts: 1
    edited March 2011
  • I see the clutch problem has been going on for a while...

    I am looking at buying a '03 Tiburon GT, and won't waste my money if the clutch problem was never resolved.

    Did Hyundai ever own up to the problem, and provide a permanent fix?
  • Hello everyone i recently bought an 03 tiburon gt. I was told that the clutch was replaced with a f1 stage 2 racing clutch. Ive been driving the car for about 5000 miles and recently ive been noticing its slipping. obviously ive been driving the car a little fast but that still should not cause this much premature wear on the clutch. It usually only slips in third and fourth gear and it seems to be only slipping when ive been driving the car for a while almost like its heating very lost and dont even know where to start looking anyone have any ideas of what i can check to narrow down the problem? or any suggestions?
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Hi there.
    I have actually made several replies to this issue.
    Try looking at maybe.. Post #95.
    There is a solid solution to solving this issue, but your friction disc is probably gone already. :(
    Its the Clutch Slave Cylinder Delay Valve.. Remove it, and your issues will vanish with your next replacement.
    Dont hesistate.. get it out of there.
    Good luck!
  • could you possibly send me a link to a video on removing the clutch cylinder delay valve? i have no idea what that is and do i just have to replace the clutch disk? or will the flywheel and everything else have to be replaced as well
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Hey there.
    Heres the main link:

    You might be able to salvage the flywheel, but it will need to be resurfaced more than likely.. have it inspected closely for cracking as well.
    The throwout bearing should be fine.
    Id defineately replace the Disc (obviously) and the Pressure plate without question.
    Whatever you do.. make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced !!
    If you ignore it, it will more than likely create a condition called clutch "judder".. which is caused by the surface of the flywheel not being smooth, like the disc and pressure plate will be.
    It will cause a type of on again off again feel.. like a brake rotor does when its warped.
    Considering the damn clutch delay valve has been slipping your clutch for the last 5000 miles, the flywheel has heat damage.. believe me.
    I wish you best of luck!
  • alandavidalandavid Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 Tib - 39K miles.
    Clutch started slipping, took it in, needs new clutch and flywheel.

    My questions
    1. The slave cylinder delay valve / spring mod applies to the 2006 model too ?
    2. Define 'hard driving' as it pertains to a clutch. Does that mean high speeds, or frequent shifting or what ?
    3. A few times I've been caught in bumper to bumper traffic on a freeway, crawling along too slow to leave the clutch out. Is there anything I should do in the situation ?

    My miles have been mostly in-city, although now I commute on the highway, so future miles will be most likely cruising in 5th gear for the most part.

    Any advice (along with the slave cyclindar mod) would be appreciated !
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Hi there.
    The answer is yes.. 2006 is under the same issue for the delay valve.
    Anytime.. I mean anytime.. the clutch is used, the excess wear is in effect.
    That Delay valve really makes the clutch slip.
    Kind of like when you are first learning how to drive a manual.. you slip the clutch in fear of stalling it.
    This is the way this thing works ALL the time!
    It makes the clutch feel, "smoother".
    You might already have enough damage (see my earlier post) that will mitigate the need for a new disk, pressure plate.. and possibly either a replacement flywheel, or a resurface. (have a clutch shop look closely at it).
    At 39K, its just old enough to consider a full clutch kit anyway.
    If you have gone 39K on a clutch thats known to have an issue.. you are doing great compared to many here.
    I kind of doubt you have been, "hard driving" the clutch to death.
    Honestly, it only applies when someone mods the engine.. adds another 100 HP at the wheels and races all the time shifting as fast as he/she can to the nearest grocery store!
    Obviously, you havent been doing anything of the sort.
    You have been driving in city.. which is also remarkable that the clutch hasn't failed sooner.
    No matter what happens.. replacing the Delay valve is IMPERATIVE for your clutch to last a long time.
    My tib has over 75K on it and its the Original clutch.
    I removed the delay valve at 16K.
    Besides increasing life greatly.. it FEELS so much better.. Positive engagements..
    You wont believe the difference.
    Good luck! :shades:
  • alandavidalandavid Posts: 3
    Thanks for the response !

    I'm looking forward to pulling the thing out ASAP.
    I've been reading what I can about driving a manual transmission (it's always possible to learn something new ).

    I guess I've tended to hold the clutch in as I'm slowing and stopping at lights. I've read that you should just put it in neutral instead.

    Will running the car in neutral like this have any negative effects on the
    transmission ?
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Hi again.
    Putting the car in neutral is fine, but your way isnt bad either.
    If you are coasting to a stop, having the clutch in is going to happen anyway, because you are going to be going into a lower gear one way or another as you go slower and slower. (speed matching the gear).
    It will allow for a faster gear engagement because the clutch is already engaged, and in some cases, might give you more time to avoid an accident!
    In stop and go situations, you are forced to let out, then press in over and over.
    Par for the course.
    I rarely go into neutral in most cases.
    On the road, coasting a long hill, with a manual, you can in essance put the car in neutral.
    I have heard different views on this because while in neutral, the gears are not engaged to the main shaft.. and the gear oil, on a long neutral stint, may actually under lubricate the bearings and cause damage.
    Particularly bad on Automatics.
    (long as in something in excess of a couple miles).
    I think going into neutral coming to a stop is ok, but it depends on the situation.
    For braking downshifts.. (while having fun) this uses compression braking.
    The Engine itself provides slowing down of the car through the gears.
    This isnt a good idea for long term use because you are doing more down shifts.. which means more clutch use.
    Using your brakes are far cheaper, and easier to repair than a clutch.
    Honestly, use what method works for you.
    Neither going into neutral coming to a stop, nor having the clutch engaged and then going into 1st is going to really matter.
    Once the clutch is disengaged (your pedal is down) there is zero wear on the clutch disk.
    Its always when engaging the wear happens.
    Regardless.. you are going to have to go into SOME gear when you are stopped and want to move again.
    There is another thing you can do to increase clutch life.
    Skip shifts.
    You can move from first, to 3rd, then to 5th.
    You can essentially be in 5th gear as early as 45 Mph.
    Watch for lugging.. if the engine RPM drops below 1500 on ANY shift in any particular gear and you notice the engine starts laboring some, and goes rough... it means there is too little power to travel at the speed you are driving at in the gear you are currently in.
    Shift back down a gear.
    Also.. when I meant it might be time to go ahead and get a clutch kit.. for 39K.. Its because you are going to have it apart anyway, and even if one or more of the parts was salvagable, its got just enough mileage to not reuse the old stuff.
    Start fresh.
    Also.. dont forget to remove the clutch slave delay valve.. LOL
    Best of Luck! :shades:
  • alandavidalandavid Posts: 3
    Finally got my Tibby back today, after a week. New Clutch, New Fly, AND the mechanic did the clutch slave delay valve mod for me.

    It feels GREAT ! God how I missed my Tibby - all hub-bub and money aside,
    I could have driven it all day when I left the shop.

    The clutch feels like a clutch (finally, not again).

    After driving a 4 cylinder automatic for the last seven days, it was such a pleasure to sink back into the shark. :)
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Hey there.
    Glad to hear everything worked out.
    Yes, the Clutch Slave Delay Valve mod REALLY makes a difference!
    I tell people who have the Tiburon I meet around town If they have Manuals, to get in there right away and take out that Clutch Delay Valve if they want to save their existing clutch longer and that it restores proper, "feel" of the clutch action, and control at the Stick.
    Makes the car more fun.
    The added bonus is no premature wear.
  • jkleejklee Posts: 4
    I'm thinking about buying a 2008 tiburon with 35k miles on it. I've heard about the clutch problems and was told that they can be prevented by removing the delay valve.

    Obviously the benefits of removing the delay valve would be that the transmission is smoother, but are there any disadvantages?
    I'm a little uncomfortable with removing something from my car. I'm just worried that I won't be covered by insurance or something because I modified the car.

    And if i were to remove the delay valve, is the car worth getting?
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    Absolutely no cons at all.
    I have 80k on my tib, took out the delay valve at 16k.
    Still works great.
    The delay valve is a pure pain i'n the butt to leave in and wipes out your clutch prematurely.
    I'd say, if the car has 38k and has been driven lightly and possibly mostly highway, it should be ok.
    No guarantees..
    But yes.. If the valve has not been removed, it's on a timer.
    Maybe someone already took it out reading in the forums?
    It's easy to tell if it hasn't.
    Any person who has driven a manual trans will immediately feel the excess slip.
    It's very easy to remove the valve and it brings the clutch back to a normal feel.
    Gigantic improvement.
    So.. Being as time tested as my 04 with 80k now.. All original clutch!
    No issues and nothing but grins. :)
    My professional opinion and experience.. Absolutely remove the silly delay valve and the spring.
    Best of luck!
  • I just had to post on this because this was the only post on the 2nd generation tibby. seems like the 3rd gens are pieces of crap. I have a 2000 tibby i bought with 35 miles on it. I currently have 170k and still going strong with the orginal clutch that came on the car. Maybe 01 to 03 hyundai must have really messed something up with the drive train because i have no slipping,pulling i have drove my car hard.
  • jkleejklee Posts: 4
    how will I know if the clutch is slipping? I'm just starting to learn how to drive a manual, so I won't be able to tell if the clutch is slipping or I just suck at driving stick.
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    In your case, your right... you won't. ;-P
    It takes some at least basic experience to feel the difference.
    If you have someone you know that has something other than a Tiburon, I suggest trying it out.. then driving the tibby.
    In some ways, the slipping clutch the delay valve brings to the Tib will make you a better clutch user, because the delay actually promotes slipping.. much like a early stick driver.
    The easiest method is to just go ahead and remove the delay valve.. if its there, then good, if it isnt.. thats fine too.
    As long as its G O N E.
    If you are learning a stick on the Tib, do it the way it should have been all along.
    No clutch slave delay valve.
    Id teach you myself if I could.
    Ive taught several people how to drive stick.
    Its about timing with rpm, and understanding where the clutch engages and when to shift.
    However, its about experience..
    Practice daily.
    After about a month or so of almost daily driving.. even just short trips, and on back roads perferably (with no traffic.. which is great).
    Learn about easy engagement.. Not banging into gears.. smooth.. think smooth.
    Find the point it engages.. move ahead, clutch in.. brake..
    Find neutral.. brake.
    Go back into first.. when below 15 mph..
    Press the clutch back in.. Brake again.
    Start off.. Start and stop.. Gain confidence.
    That will teach massive control skills.
    If the engine RPM is below 1500 RPM, shift DOWN a gear.. If its over 1800-2000 RPM.. Shift UP. (while driving Easy, this is the common spread of RPM in most cars).
    Hard shifting.. you can take it to 5-6K.. and move to the next gear fast.. But, with experience.. not until then. :-P
    Move through each gear.. skip shifting can come with time (1st to 3rd to 5th (or 6th on the SE).
    All new drivers slip the clutch.
    The 03 and on Tibby's do it ALL the time with the valve.. which wears out the clutch way too early and causes alot of damage in most cases.
    Good luck!
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    The 1st Gen tibby didnt have a clutch problem like the 03 and later.
    Nobody ever talks about them at all.
    Which is great.
    They did use a similar engine and transmission.. the Beta 2.0 was still pretty much the same.
    The only major diff was the new head with variable valve timing used beginning 2003.
    And of course, a completely new body.
    I have heard of some people complaining of the shift forks going out on the 1st gens, but that's not all as common as the Failing clutches of the 03 and later Tibs.
    Its such a silly, and easy fix to remove the clutch slave delay valve and spring.. it makes me almost sick to my stomach that Hyundai even had such a part installed!
    Dont know much about the 3rd gens.. because to me.. they are just 2nd gens with a refresh.
    Hyundai didnt change much at all mechanically.
    Im pretty sure they use the same silly delay valve in all the 5 and 6 speeds.
  • jkleejklee Posts: 4
    I've been practicing on my friend's 2001 honda civic, but I still stall every once in a while. My main problem is getting the car to start moving smoothly. I either burnout or stall. With his honda civic I'm able to half-clutch which makes it a bit easier, but he told me that you can't do half-clutches with a tiburon. Is that true?
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    The slipping action of the stock (delay valve and spring still in place) makes your clutch feel awkward in general on a tib.
    It feels like it has a long pedal, and no definate engagement feel.
    I would agree with his assessment.
    Honda makes some very smooth clutches, and great transmission feel.
    But.. they are also low on torque.. so stalling is easier.
    On a Honda, my advice is to move the clutch AND gas pedal evenly as possible.
    The engine needs alittle more RPM to get moving, with an even clutch disengagement as you begin.
    Once moving, you can release the clutch all the way out alittle faster and can let up some on the gas.
    Your stalling is due to the car not being in motion, and giving the car not quite enough gas (to boost torque).
    For years, Honda has made cars like this.
    Until 2006, with the New 1.8, and any 2.0 engine (SI civic) the torque was up noticably so it made it easier to learn how to drive a stick.
    The 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 Engines were all low on torque at low rpm, making it harder to clutch without slipping it more, and running the rpm higher for smooth take offs.
    I promise.. you'll get it right.
  • jkleejklee Posts: 4
    Whenever I'm stopped at a hill with my friend's civic, I can just use the half-clutch to keep the car from rolling back. Since tiburon's don't have the half-clutch, are there any tricks that I can use for uphill starts?

    Also, if I do need to replace the clutch, do you know how much a clutch kit for a tiburon could cost?
  • jemtecjemtec Posts: 40
    I have heard of a "Hill Holder" clutch.. but that is a Subaru thing.
    Uphill starting is kind of nerve racking.
    It's hard to not slip the clutch alittle due to the additional power the car needs to overcome the grade of the hill.
    Honestly, I would suggest NOT doing alot of hill climbing from a stop while you are learning.
    When you get good at general take offs, shifting, starting and stopping in typical traffic.. then come back to hill driving.
    Its harder on your clutch.. no doubt about it doing hills.
    Much like the Clutch slave Delay valve is in general use on a 2003-on Tiburon.
    (why I suggest removing it so much).
    As far as a clutch kit.. I would suggest a stock type kit from an aftermarket supplier as NEW.. not remanufactured.
    If you plan on modding the car, maybe go with a step up with a slightly heavier clutch for more racing type applications.
    Or nuts, and go full race (ceramic button type pressure plate and disk).
    They tend to be harder to press in, but provide alot of clamping force for HP in excess of say, 500 or more.
    You can buy new Hyundai Stock, but its going to cost more than just buying a OEM style aftermarket clutch.
    Keep in mind.. if the clutch is going out, the flywheel might be toast too.
    Its a dual mass flywheel, and I am not sure if there are any aftermarket companies who make them. (Havent checked recently) but typically, you have to buy them from Hyundai.
    Luk makes good clutches. Might look into one from them.
    As far as cost, they vary.. many cost 150.00 and up for a complete kit.. (disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, alignment tool sometimes, and occasionally a pilot bearing/bushing.
    You might be able to get a cheaper kit.. but be careful and do research on the company if you are looking to save money.
    When it comes to clutches, I like to buy good quality components.
    I hate redoing my work prematurely.
    Otherwise, good luck!
  • i feel you i have a 2006 tiburon that i bought january 7 th of this year and just had to replace my master clutch cylinder and 12 days after that my starter went out and ever where want a rediculas amount of money everytime this stupid car breaks down
  • I have an 05 tiburon se with right under 50,000 miles. I purchased the car in april 2011 with about 41,000 miles and didn't have any problems with it until this month. One day I got in it and noticed the clutch felt very light, now I'm no expert at driving stick as I just learned when I got the car, but I never rode the clutch or grinded gears so I'm wondering if the previous owner drove it rough or if Hyundai is just that cheap with their parts. I was told if it wasn't a hydraulic clutch it could be adjusted and that might fix the problem but I'm pretty sure it is hydraulic so does that mean I just have to replace it, and if so how much am I looking at spending? :confuse:
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