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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair



  • That's a possibility. .
  • batkinsonbatkinson Posts: 11
    the ignition switch can ware out over time a create a short or cut the power off at times.I would start by replacing the ignition switch I know they do go bad
  • I'm going to give it a try. At the moment I can't think of anything else it could be.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I'd guess maybe a crankshaft positioning sensor. Who says no codes? Sometimes you need the better types of scanners.
  • I'm not sure if a 94 - 5.7L with TBI even has a crankshaft position sensor. And why would the engine, when it does start, run fine until I take it out of Park or sometimes continue to run fine in gear until it mysteriously quits?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Yep you're right, no crankshaft sensor.

    Man this is tough without codes. One hardly knows where to start. I'm wondering if a defective fuel pressure regulator could cause this? This regulator is part of the fuel meter cover assembly.
  • I'm going to give the ignition switch a try first. It's an easy and cheap fix if that's all it is. I did determine that it's definately lack of spark that kills it.
    I'm lucky I have a 93 Silverado I can swap parts with to experiment, although that's having a running rich problem at the moment that no one can seem to figure out. That's next on the list to fix.

    I definately miss the days of carbs and no computers.

    Thanks for the input.
  • batkinsonbatkinson Posts: 11
    running rich could have to do with your fuel pressure you need the proper fuel pressure for the car to run right. find what the pressure should be and then check it on the car
  • I"ll be looking into that.
  • For anyone interested, the problem with the ignition cutting out turned out to be a bad ECM.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    How did you prove, or disprove that? Did you have to take it to the dealer?
  • I had already replaced the distributor, and coil, which I had intended on doing anyway before the problem started so they were not a factor since I still had the problem. I did replace the ignition switch for the hell of it, but that had no affect either. The biggest tell tale I had was that when the ignition quit the first time the speedometer stayed at the speed that I was driving at even after the I came to a full stop, and didn't return to 0 until I put the ignition switch to off. Looking at the wiring diagrams, engine control, and emission control component descriptions, and the fact that there were no check engine codes there appeared to be nothing that would cause this other then a failure of the ECM. Basically I took a guess. I temporarily installed the ECM from my 93 Silverado and the problem was solved. God knows what a shop would have cost me to find the problem.
  • I have a 99 Suburban with a 5.7. I had a leak on my intake gasket and got that replaced. After a week, engine runs rough and showing P0300. Replaced cap/rotors, plug, wires, MAP sensor, Cam Sensor, and Crankshaft sensor. Then I replaced the ecm. Still doing the same thing. Mechanic advised me that it can be the head gasket that will run be about $1200 to $1500. I don't think thats the problem. I did not let them fix the head gasket. After I replaced all the things that I replaced, now its showing p0304 cylinder misfire on 4. Please help if anyone solved the problem. Can it be my EGR valve, fuel injector? I checked the plug on cylinder 4 and it is firing fine. Please help, don't have anymore ideas and running low on my repair budget.


  • Do you hear any hissing sound? (sign of vaccum leak)
    Another indication of a small vacuum leak is that it will probably start running on all cylinders with your foot in it (under heavy load). Check closely for a loose / missing vaccum hose on or around the runner for cyl#4. You can also spray a little brake clean around the gasket area while idling rough to see if that cylinder starts cutting in.
  • spence57spence57 Posts: 26
    Your mechanic ought to be able to give a better estimate of what the problem could be before suggesting such expensive repairs. Engines mix air with fuel and use a spark to ignite it in multiple cylinders. Simply disconnecting spark plugs might tell you what cylinders are involved. An oscilloscope can tell if the sparks are consistent. Pressure tests can tell if there are leaks in certain cylinders or their valves. Compare your plugs. An exhaust sensor may tell if the mixture is a problem. Check the vacuum and those hoses and make sure the plug wires haven't been switched. Consider getting a more experienced mechanic.
  • my son installed a new long block in my 98 suburban. problem no fire to spark plugs. we replaced new crankshaft sensor,coil,ignition module. we are getting power to coil and ignition module. please help it driving us crazy.engine does turn over.
  • Before installing the fuel lines from the back of the motor left side. Did you pressurize the fuel lines? If there is no pressure, engine will not fire up. Do you know if you are getting fuel?

    Please keep us posted. I still need help on my burb myself.
  • yes we check and get gas. the problem no spark to spark plug. will look at cam sensor today. does anyone know how to check to see if sensor is bad, before i buy a new one.
  • Thanks for the info. I have already checked for vacuum leaks and I dont have any vacuum leak. Thanks for your help.
  • Frank, I am have the exact same problem you are having with you 98. I just installed a new engine in my 99 Suburban and I have no spark. I do not know what the problem is and I was wondering if you found out what was causing yours.
  • Frank, I am have the exact same problem you are having with you 98. I just installed a new engine in my 99 Suburban and I have no spark. I do not know what the problem is and I was wondering if you found out what was causing yours.
  • jlabantjlabant Posts: 1
    I recently picked up a junk yard special 4L60E transmission for my 1997 1500 with 150K. Took it to my local transmission shop to have the main shaft switched out to accomodate my 4X4 shaft. ( trans was from a 2 wheel drive truck with 26K on the clock). Had the tech check it you while doing the shaft transfer. He claimed the box had little to no wear and I should be fine. I personally installed the trans and had good success for the first 25 miles, While backing up a hill. I noticed that the transmission was now starting to slip in reverse and it showed a chek engine light. I checked the code with my reader and it showed up as a transmission electronics code failure. Fluid looks perfect, I looking for suggestions, any ideas?
  • jerome4jerome4 Posts: 1
    just got my SUV out of the Shop & paid $1192 and its still not running right,Guy said its the Coil Wire and thats why its not running right.It wants to cut off like its not getting Gas and its back fired once If were at a light and take off its like its not getting gas.Had the Flue pump changed,distributor & the cap.Now the guy said Hey it may be all the wiring and he'll need about 4-6hrs to look over it at $85 an hour.ANY help would be used with care.thanks Jerome & Family :cry:
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    Jerome4 said: ANY help would be used with care.thanks
    Why would you pay someone big bucks when they did not do the job right the first time? You need to take your vehicle to an authorized GM shop. You just paid almost $1200 and still the vehicle does not run right. Unbelievable. It will cost you some more money at a GM dealer but at least you will have a vehicle that will run.
  • spence57spence57 Posts: 26
    Actually I think backfiring is an explosion of unburnt gas so it so at least then you had enough fuel just poor timing, a bad mixture, improper spark or somethink else.
  • ptynningptynning Posts: 1
    Chevy Surburban 1500 5.7L with thottle bodly fuel injection

    Changed plugs,wires,Dist Cap,Rotor

    Checked Compression on #6 -200 psi

    Unplugged #6 plug wire and not change to engine rough idle which means
    # 6 cycliner not firing

  • rustyk1rustyk1 Posts: 4
    did you check the rockers? might have a stuck valve or bent pushrod pop the valve cover and see what is moving.Also did you have someone watch the spark plug while connected to the wire and grounded against the head to make sure there is no spark? new plug, new wires, might have a bad one from the box.
  • michelewmichelew Posts: 1
    Did it end up being the solenoid?

    We are having the same exact problem with our 1995 Suburban. Thanks for any info.
  • gblairgblair Posts: 7
    Complain to Chevy!

    Defective Seat Belts is a SAFETY ISSUE!

    Nothing Makes an automaker jump faster than the threat of Bad Publicity on a SAFETY ISSUE.

    Safety Issues can lead to lawsuits & recalls GM does NOT want to the public to know about! I have the same issues with the center row seatbelts on my 2001 suburban LS, and I do not want to be the only voice complaining to GM on this topic: My buckle housings have split apart and come off of my center row seat & I cannot replace the belts they're sewn to, because GM has sewn them to brackets welded directly to the floor beneath the Center row seat.

    Please tell us what GM does for you!
  • esther08esther08 Posts: 3
    I want to try to replace my fuel filter if it isn't too hard, anybody done it before?
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