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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,450
    4.8, 5.3, or 5.3 flex fuel? Which engine?

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  • flyb412flyb412 Posts: 4
    I need to replace the brake master cylinder on my 90 suburban, R1500, 6.2L diesel. This will be my first time. Any helpful advice will be gratefully appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,450
    I think the removal/installation is pretty straightforward, but you might want to get yourself a Haynes or Chilton's manual to learn the proper bleeding procedure, especially if you have ABS brakes. The public library might have this by the way.

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  • ilive2ilive2 Posts: 1
    I am a novice back yard mechanic (i.e. I don't know what I'm doing). How do I replace the fuel filter in my 99 suburban 1500 (4wd)?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,450
    The fuel filter is located along the LH frame rail.


    IMPORTANT: If the in-line filter is plugged, the fuel tank should be inspected internally and cleaned if necessary. Refer to Fuel System Cleaning.


    * Do not drain the fuel into an open container. Never store the fuel in an open container due to the possibility of a fire or an explosion.
    * Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure. Have a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher nearby.
    3. Turn the filter housing counterclockwise and allow the fuel remaining in the filter housing to drain into an approved container.
    4. Remove the fuel filter housing and gasket from the base.
    5. Remove the fuel filter cartridge.
    6. Inspect the inside of the housing for signs of rust or corrosion. Discard the housing if rust or corrosion is present.


    1. Install a new housing gasket. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the gasket.
    2. Install the new filter cartridge.
    3. Connect the housing to the base. Tighten

    o Tighten the filter housing until the gasket seats.
    o Tighten filter housing 3/4 of a turn more.

    4. Check for fuel leaks.

    4.1. Connect the negative battery cable.
    4.2. Turn ON the ignition switch for 2 seconds .
    4.3. Turn OFF the ignition switch for 10 seconds .
    4.4. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    4.5. Check for fuel leaks.

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  • mycar15mycar15 Posts: 3
    hello , i my self am going thru the same thing with my 03 tahoe , i would like to know if you have fixed the problem and what you did to fix it , i have tried looking for bad connections but have had no luck ,i am thinking of taking it to the dealer but, thats going to cost an arm and a leg ,and to make matters worse ,thats the only car i have ,so if you would let me know what you did to resolve the problem i would be very thankful , hope to hear from you soon , and thank you for your time...
  • mycar15mycar15 Posts: 3
    i have an 03 tahoe that cuts out when i hit a bump , message #391 had the same thing going on ,any ideas??

    i have an 03 tahoe with an intermitten problem when I hit a bump it seems like my vehicle shuts off and turns on momentarily. Sometimes the door locks just cycle and sometimes the check engine light goes on and off, ABS light comes on and off, brake warning light goes on and off, service brake system flashes across my odometer and chimeing like I just started the vehicle. I also lose power for a second. Sometimes the ABS light and brake warning light stays on. My brakes work fine and the brake warning light goes out when I shut off and restart the vehicle, then after running awhile the ABS clears. At least till I hit another bump. Any thoughts where to start? It seems to be a loose electrical connection. Checked ths grounds off of the engine and it isn't loose. I also had the seat heaters on when it did this and they turned off. No OBD codes
  • what is the problem,it won't start sometimes,then it starts
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You will have to give significantly more information than that. Please describe your symptoms in much greater detail.

    As an example....
    When you say it doesn't start, do you mean that the starter doesn't engage when you turn the key, turning over the engine?

    or do you mean, the starter turns over the engine, but the engine will not fire up and start running?
  • thiseythisey Posts: 11
    I replaced my battery and the ignition relay ($10). GM has a secret bulletin about this problem. The dealer will deny, deny, deny about it. I was given a copy of the bulletin from a GM warranty mechanic who was employed at the Oil company I was working at. He gave it to me with the caveat to not tell the dealer where I learned this from. GMs own bulletin advised changing the battery and the relay. I bought a new gel battery and have eliminated all of my electrical problems.
  • mycar15mycar15 Posts: 3
    well , thanks for all the help but , well , i broke down and took my tahoe to the dealership today at 7:30 am ,by 4:30 i called the service dept. back and was told that they could not get my tahoe to act up but they pulled up two codes saying i needed a nutral safety switch and a new fuel pump in all it was going to cost me $980 some dollars and they said that would fix my problem , well i declined to the repairs , went to the dealer after work ,paid $90 dollars for the computer scan and went home and started to check the tahoe my self ,well after 15mins, i found the problem called the dearler told them what i found ,all they said is that they were sorry and refunded me my money ,man that is really bad ,i dont have any scaners or wiring diagrams or a fancy shop or a whole lot of money, but i did need my tahoe fixed , well if any one needs the fixs for the same problem email me and i'll walk you thur it, thanks for everybodys help and" fatmando" your comment was really dumb . my email is , [email protected] .com . thanks !!!!!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Why don't you just post what you found, so others may look for it as a possible problem in the future.

    Bad ignition switch? Bad relay? Loose wire?
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    How often should this be done? I've got about 45K miles, never changed it yet. Seems like a prior vehicle (2000 Mustang) recommended it be done at 30K (or was it 40K?) in the owner's manual, but the GMC Yukon XL manual does not mention anything about the fuel filter.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Answering my own question here. Edmunds maintenance guide says to replace the fuel filter at 60K. A couple of other things struck me as odd - It never says to change the coolant or transmission fluid, only to inspect and fill as needed. I'll probably flush and replace both of those at 60K as well.
  • I also have a 99 same thing was happening to me I learned that on my truck I have full time hubs or vacumn hubs witch means that the tires are locked to the drive shaft not both at same time but all i could figure is that at high speed the front drive shaft would vibrate and as i would come to a slow speed it would bind as to apear tight when lightly checked how I found out was I droped my transfer case do fix a leek and the drive shaft about fell apart it was so worn out. hope that helps.
  • My 2000 suburban ws doing same thing I changed the fuel regulator on the fuel rail. It was $50 and easy to change. Make sure to get all the old o-rings out.
  • simmysimmy Posts: 5
    I have a 95 chevy suburban 2500 that absolutely will not start. The fuel pump was replaced and I was able to make 4 stops. Well on my 4th stop it wouldn't start back up. The fuel pressure was checked and that was fine. Changed the fuel relay, coil, battery, throttle body, injectors, checked the spark plugs, changed the distributer and the o rings. Still nothing. The mechanic is not figuring out what is wrong. The fuel is coming out when we place a wire from the injectors to the battery, but when we take the wire off then NO FUEL. :( Everything has just about been replaced. Can someone PLEASE give me an idea of what the heck is going on I would greatly appreciate it. I am so frustrated :mad:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,450
    Okay let's back up. Were the injectors checked for pulse with a NOID light during crank?

    Not sure exactly which component sends the impulse that tells your injectors to open, but that's where I'd look if the noid light says no impulse.

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  • Your mechanic needs to stop guessing. He should check to see that fuel is getting to the cylinders at the appropriate time, as is a strong spark. There also has to be sufficient pressure in the cylinders at the right time. If a pressure gauge indicates the
    proper compression pressures then you can assume that the cylinders and valves are in sync. You can then check the number one cylinder TDC point to make sure the timing mark corresponds with it. Then a timing light will tell you when the spark is timed for. Finally using ether will tell you whether the cylinders just aren't getting fuei.
  • My wife has a 1994 Suburban, today she called me from work saying she could not turn the truck off. She said it would not turn to the back position, but it would turn to the foward or start position. I need to know how hard it is to replace the key switch. It does have tilt steering also. Thanks Bobby
  • I call a parts Store and a GM dealer in my area They said they dont know what a Ignition relay is. Maybe a starter relay or do u have a part number? thanks julian
  • I replaced the distributor on my 1994 suburban and I can't find the timing bypass connector. any help?
  • i have a 1990 suburban that bogs down when i give it gas. have changed fuel pump, fuel filter , pulgs , wires , drained fuel tank and changed fuel injectirs and have set the timing. it has 137,000 miles. it idles fine.
  • nash8nash8 Posts: 2
    Except for the year, sounds just like mine! Was recently informed by a pretty reliable source that it could be the thermo-sensor (?) in the transmission. Going to check it out as soon as I can afford it. Good luck!
  • Lots of issues on this one. First off, I am dealing with the speedometer issue that I now realize is a major concern for several people. Second, I have a fuse that blows often. It is a 50 amp that controls the heated seats, power seats and passenger front and back windows. Third, my driver side rear door will not unlock. I can't even unlock it manually. It made some squealing noises prior to it breaking completely. Last issue, I am locked in 4WD HI and can not switch it back to 2WD. This has been an issue since I purchased it new in 2004.

    Any thoughts on what I should expect at the dealership?? Everything has gone downhill on this within the past 60 days.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If they've let you live with being stuck in 4WD since the vehicle was new, and haven't fixed it.....I would expect nothing but very poor service from that dealership.

    Why have you let this obvious defect go so long? Isn't it out of warranty now?

    Regarding the 50 Amp'll need to do some diagnosing to figure out what is shorting out the fuse. I'd disconnect all of the seats first. If it stops blowing, then start connecting back up the seats one by one until you find where the problem is.

    You'll need to take the inside door panel apart to get at the locking/unlocking mechanism.
  • It's possible that you have an obstruction in your exhaust. I'd try to bypass your systems as much as possible. Can you check the fuel pressure or feed it from another pump and fuel can? Could something be left in your tank? Does it bog down when you rev the engine in neutral or just when you are driving?
  • tsf7tsf7 Posts: 31
    I have an '04 Suburban 4wd w/ G80 rear end. I purchased it in April of this year so today was my first real experience driving it in the snow. Since I purchased it at approx. 4 yrs old, I don't know how well things like differentials and the transfer case were maintained. From the Carfax, it lived in So. Cal. its whole life (now in Utah), so I am assuming the 4auto system was rarely, if ever, used during the first 65k miles, and possibly neglected as a result.

    Two issues I noticed. First, rear end clunks rather loudly when the locker engages. Is this normal? Admittedly, many of the times I was playing around and trying to make it -- the harsh clunk was probably b/c I had the other wheel spinning pretty fast already, so the engagement was more violent than it would usually be. Second, the Auto 4wd seemed to take a half second to kick in (again, screwing around, so...). Has anyone else noticed this? I have driven my dad's '99 in the snow quite a bit. On his Sub, there is no perceptible delay in engagement of the auto 4wd. I don't know if my dad's has the g80 rear end, but again, there is no noise coming from the rear when the wheels spin.

    I'm just wondering if these are signs that the systems haven't been maintained as they should, ie, the differential filled with the wrong lube and/or the t-case neglected because it was never used for 4wd. But before I spend money getting the t-case and diff. drained and refilled, I wanted to see if you all think there might be a problem, or if that is just how these trucks work. Thanks in advance.
  • I have a 1999 chevy suburban, I have added an alarm system to my vehicle. I have recently been having the problem with my doors locking when it wants to. My alarm atomatically turns on and my doors are suppose to lock but they don't most of the time. But I can leave my truck sitting for about 10 minutes turn my alarm off and on the locks. Is there some kinda power issue with these trucks on the locks or is there something I can change. Someone please help me
  • bcxlbcxl Posts: 2
    My 2002 Yukon XL had the same problem and no one knew the answer until luck finally came my way with a service tech at a small Chevy dealership. Seems as though a hole is factory cut in the firewall to accomodate heater/ac hoses that is not sealed and much too large for the hoses.

    The fix requires temporary removal of the wiper motor and controls (under the hood) then calking the hole. The service guy actually could put two fingers in the hole and be seen from under the dash looking up.

    I had this done last spring and now deep into the winter season and cold weather; it worked. Passengers can actually ride in the car without wrapping their legs in a blanket! I had originally thought that there was a vent issue or a leak around the fender on passenger side and searched to no avail.

    The "fix" cost me a couple of hundred bucks, but was well worth it.


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