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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair



  • Thanks for the information. Everything listed seems straight forward and pretty simple. I've had it @ the dealer three times because sometimes, very random, when I start it in the morning, it makes, for a lack of better words, a snorting sound. I will bet that the compressor is probably low on oil & they are just waiting for it to fall apart. I now have a weekend project that hopefully won't get put on the back burner due to an unexpected "Honey-Doo" list. :P
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Adding an oil charge in the A/C system can save you $700-$900 if it keeps your compressor from burning up so "Honey-Doo" list can wait and I believe that the "Honey" would agree if you tell her about the possible amount of money involved if A/C is not taken care of...

    The "snorting" sound can be coming from A/C system but it can also be from engine cooling system.

    I would definitely add oil charge in the A/C system especially if you have not done that yet at all. Get a good pressure gauge so that you do not over fill the system and just one can of oil charge should be enough.

    I have seen oil charge cans come with two viscosities. I use the higher one as the compressor has turned around quite a lot. I live in southern Louisiana and here the compressor runs pretty much every day.

  • My 1996 Tahoe was having terrible problems starting and running correctly. The initial diagnosis was the crankshaft position switch was malfunctioning. After almost $2000 dollars of replacing the sensor, engine tune-up, fuel filter and fuel pump I was still having the same problems, but not all the time. I had a local mechanic due the work and he said take it to Chevy and have them diagnose the problem, which they determined was still the crankshaft position switch was malfunctioning. Since my mechanic had done the original work I took the Tahoe back to him with the Chevy diagnosis problem. He crawled under the truck with it running and saw the sensor moving around while it was running. He took the sensor out and discovered that one of the mounting bolts screws into a brass fitting inside the plastic timing chain cover. The brass fitting was loose and just needed a screw driver inserted into it to spread it to increase the tension on the plastic cover. My mechanic put it back together and it resolved all my problems, meaning most of the $2000 dollars I had spent trying to fix a problem that ended up being caused by maybe a 25 cent brass fitting in a plastic cover. Live and Learn. By the way my 1996 Tahoe has almost 154000 miles on it with the original engine and transmission.
  • flyb412flyb412 Posts: 4
    I need to remove and replace my fuel injector pump on my 1990 6.2L diesel R1500 Suburban. Anyone caring to offer any helpful hints, dos and don'ts, would be most welcomed and greatly appreciated. Many thanks!
  • I have 17,000 miles on my 2007 Suburban, only used occasionally, usually on long highway trips. Already the front brakes were down to the metal (I never heard the warning squeal). I replaced the pads with heavy duty ceramic pads. I also replaced the rotors and abutment clips. I am not a professional mechanic but I've been doing my own brakes since 1961. Usually I can easily snap the pads into the abutment clips, but with this '07 Suburban the pads fit so tightly that I had to tap them in with a hammer. I'm concerned that they are so tight that they can't slide back from the rotors after releasing the brake pedal. This could make the brakes drag while I am driving.

    I traded an '05 Suburban with only 11,000 miles for the '07 partially because I expected better gas mileage with the new engine that would run on four cylinders while cruising on the highway. I actually got 2-3 miles per gallon better on the '05 that ran on eight cylinders all the time. Now I wonder if it is because I'm constantly dragging the brakes. I'm tempted to grind down the ends of the pads so they won't fit so tightly in the abutment clips, but I'm nervous about tampering with brake parts. Has anyone heard of this problem and/or a fix? Thanks, Ron
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    We're you getting a lot of brake dust, and heat from your rotors....those are usually telltale signs the pads aren't releasing.

    I have an '07 as well, haven't seen any problems like you reference, but don't have that many miles as we only rarely use it, mostly for long trips and a few short trip major hauling..
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Why did you not take your truck to the dealer and have them change the brakes under warranty? Brakes are a wearing item but them going out in only 17 000 miles is not normal. Something is wrong for that to happen.

    To compare with my '04 Tahoe I have 117 500 miles on it and the factory installed original brake pads look almost like new. They are not even close to half worn yet. I drive almost all (85%) highway and so don't use brakes a lot but 15% of 117 500 miles as city driving of the total mileage equals over 17 000 miles and as I said my brake pads are less than half worn. Rotors also look almost new.

  • PTynning, were you able to troubleshoot? If so, what was your fix? Thanks...
  • ron152ron152 Posts: 6
    I took my Suburban to a Chevrolet dealer along with the original brakes labeled as to where I removed them. I told them I didn't expect to be reimbursed for the aftermarket carbon ceramic brakes, I just wanted to know what caused the premature failure and uneven wear of the brake pads. I was told that since I installed aftermarket brake parts, I voided my factory warranty and they would have nothing to do with my problem.

    So I went home and reinstalled the original brakes exactly the way they were originally installed. Then I took my Suburban to a different Chevrolet dealer. I was told the problem was caused by excess rust and was asked if I go to the shore a lot. No, I have never taken my Suburban to the shore. Then do you park your car on a gravel driveway? Yes, I do. Then there's the answer to the problem! Are you kidding me??? I have have lived at my house for more than twenty years and have always had at least three cars at a time. I have never had any "rust" problems with any of my other cars, in fact, the Suburban has been parked there the least amount of time since it's my newest vehicle.

    When I originally purchased the Suburban, I asked to have it undercoated before I took delivery. I was told no one does that anymore. Cars are way more corrosion resistant then they used to be and it is no longer necessary. It's no wonder to me that GM now stands for Government Motors and they had to beg the government for billions of $ to continue operating and still declared bankruptcy. I have been buying GM cars for more than 40 years and they don't care if they lose yet another loyal customer. I'm happy to see Roger Penske came to his senses and backed away from buying out the Saturn brand. With the loss of Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Hummer, Saab, and Saturn, It's only a matter of time before GM is no more.

    The actual problem with my brakes is that both the original AND the after market brakes fit too tightly into the caliper support brackets preventing them from sliding away from the rotors when the brake is released. But, unfortunately, GM got their $47,000 and couldn't care less. And I don't care to buy another vehicle from them.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Not that I'm suggesting one necessarily should be doing this on any vehicle design, but if you know that the problem is what you indicate, why don't you take a grinding wheel to the backing edge of the brake pad, and grind off enough so that you have enough clearance. I don't suspect it would take much, and would get you around this problem whether it is GM's problem, the mfg of the caliper, or the the mfg of the pad.

    I have an 08 Sub, but have not experienced this problem. It may be that I don't have enough miles yet to notice experience the wear, but I'll be sure to be on the lookout for it the first time I need to do the brakes.

    Thanks for the heads up.
  • My wife's 1999 Chevy Suburban has a intermittent soft pedal problem at slow speed, with the ABS shuttling at the same time. I recently replaced the master cylinder, bench bled it, and had the brake lines to each wheel bled. But all that work had no effect on the problem, it is getting worse. The brake shop that did the bleed said I need to have the dealer scan for codes at the ABS module. He said something about the ABS system getting stuck in dump mode, which would give a soft pedal and the shuttling behavior. I need to get this fixed, my wife does not want to drive it in this condition. Any ideas on how to diagnose? Thanks.
  • ron152ron152 Posts: 6

    Thanks for the suggestion. I thought about that, but since both the original AND the aftermarket brakes were too tight, I would have to do that everytime I put new brake pads on the car. So I spent a couple of hours and carefully filed a couple thousands of an inch off the caliper support brackets and they now work beautifully. I don't know if these parts slipped through inspection by the manufacturer of the parts or if it's a design flaw. But I shouldn't have any problems from now on. I think it's outrageous that I should have to do this to a new $47K vehicle.

    The brakes on the left front had gotten so hot from dragging that they cooked the rubber seals on the dual piston caliper. Neither of the GM Mr. Goodwrench mechanics noticed that even after I asked them to check it.
  • Just to set the record straight. I fixed this problem, but it was not the wheel speed sensor getting rusted up. It was a bad wheel hub bearing. The symptoms were: soft brake pedal and ABS shuttling at low speed stops, a driveshaft-like vibration at highway speeds, a popping sound on hard left turns from a stop, and variations in power steering authority in hairpin turns.

    I have to thank the local Chevy dealer service guy who told me that the salt belt rusted wheel speed sensor environment problem did not apply to my year (1999) Suburban. He suggested that I first jack the front end off the ground and wiggle the tires. The passenger side tire had no give when shaken in the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. It had some give in the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, which could be attributed to steering linkage. But when I shook the driver's side tire, it did this; clunk-clunk, clunk-clunk in the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. Obviously a bad spindle bearing.

    It cost me about $175 to fix, but it was relatively easy. Loosen the hub nut and lugnuts, then jack the front end off the ground, remove wheel, depress brake caliper and disconnect caliper bolts, move caliper out of the way, remove the three hub bolts with an impact wrench, disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector, install new hub with the three bolts, wheel speed connector, caliper, etc....The three hub bolts did not want to come out. I hit all three with an impact wrench and 100psi, but only one came loose. I had my daughter pray while I torqued the two remaining with a breaker bar. Thankfully they backed out without stripping or snapping.
  • Hello All.....

    I am about to purhcase a used Sub. 07/08. Because I am looking at ones with a lot of options I am having to look at one with higher miles say in the 40-50K range.

    If these vehicles have been maintained is there any call for concern with reliability? The units that I have driven with those miles seem very solid compared to like competition.

    Thanks for any input
  • I have a question about my 2008 Suburban. Bought it used with 32000 miles on it. Anytime I gently presss the brake pedal I get a squeking noise, but as I press the pedal harder to actually stop the truck the squeak goes away. Called dealeship and they said it was just brake just and to go wash the discs off at a carwash. Didn't quite solve the problem. Thoughts. Anyone had this issue. Brakes work fine in terms fo slowing down truck and no wobbling in the steering wheel when brakes are applied.
  • My burb stalled while driving around 35mph, would not start back up. Had about 2 bars on the gas gauge or 51 miles to empty. Check the fuel pressure at the sch valve and nothing. Towed to friends shop, checked pressure at valve by pressing center of valve and nothing, even when turning on the key.

    A day later after towing to another location, by buddy unplugged the regulator and plugged back in and he put the fuel pressure gauge and while he started it he noticed the fuel pressure getting stronger after each turn of the key, when the pressure got back up, everything started working. 2 days later all is well, runs normal.

    I replace the fuel filter also.

    Now the fuel psi is great while running, but when I turn it off it looses about 10 psi in about 10 minutes but starts back up.

    I did not want to replace the fuel pump just yet, 77000 miles.

    Also, when it stopped it was showing 51 miles to go on the digital gas gauge, so it was almost empty, I did about a gallon in and it did not help.

    But now it's fine, any thoughts?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,450
    Sounds like a defective fuel pressure regulator.

    About $100 bucks in parts an .5 of an hour labor.

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  • Is there a way to test the regulator? But, it's been 3 days and still running like a champ, no issues at all.
  • As long as you checked to make sure the pads are not worn out, it's really nothing to worry about. Squeaking can be caused by dirt or rust trapped between the pads and rotor and the squeaking may come and go on ANY car or truck. Nothing to worry about but it is annoying.
  • I have a question regarding my maintenance schedule for my 2001 Suburban. Can you help?

    Our Chevy Suburban 2001, 1500 (4) wheel drive has 92,000 miles. Our last preventive maintenance (major) was at 5/5/2006, (66,500 miles) which included Transmission and Differential major preventative service. The scheduled service manual state the service for this preventive maintenance is every 50,000. The truck is currently consumed 50% of that time for these services.

    Question: Is it your recommendation to wait another 2.5 years assuming we are driving the truck 10,000 miles per year?

    Thank you for your help,

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,450
    i think you can pull off the vacuum hose to the regulator and if you see fuel in there, it's bad for sure.

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  • Not sure if this will help but look at the recall Chevy had in October 2005 on the fuel module resorvoir. Certain 2001 models had prbolems with the fuel pump when the gas went below a quarter of a tank. My will cause a fuel stall or no start condition. My wires overheated in a gas station burning a hole in the connector body and I dumped fuel while on vacation in Florida. A nightmare of the 4th of July weekend with Hazmat etc. however, Chevy picked up the tab. I believe this is the problem and you may be able to get Chevy to cover the issue. Good Luck.

  • I just bought a 2000 Suburban from a private party. It has a factory stereo with some sort of security code system. Unfortunately, the previous owner had gotten locked out of the stereo and didn't have the code to get it unlocked. So 2 questions:

    1. Is there some way to get the code? or to get around this problem?

    2. How do you go about unlocking the stereo even if you have the code?

    btw, I live in Central America. No GM dealerships nearby...

  • tsf7tsf7 Posts: 31
    My Sub is at 98k miles, so I'm preparing to do the big maintenance service soon. Per manual, major points are: plugs, air filter, trans. service, transfercase service. Manual recommends changing coolant at 5 yrs/150k miles or something like that, so I figure I'll do that, too. I am familiar with cars and worked on older cars & jeeps quite a bit in the past, but aside from changing the evap sensor soleniod or whatever it was called, I haven't done anything to this truck except change the oil, which I usually do myself (haven't needed to do anything). I'm considering doing plugs, filter, and coolant myself this weekend to save some money (I won't touch the transmission or transfer case), and looking for guidance. A couple questions before I start:

    1) with the rear heater, is there anything different that needs to be done in changing coolant (I assume there is separate heat exhange at the rear of the truck)? Or do I just flush, etc as usual?

    2) any tricks to getting those rear spark plugs out? They sure look like they're in tight quarters. We had an old Bonneville w/ 305 engine, had to take the passenger tire off to get at the plug. Any similar tricks on this engine?

    Any other tricks or tips appreciated! Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,450
    Unlocking a Radio That Displays LOC When Code is Unknown

    IMPORTANT: Starting in 1995, a factory back-up code can be used to erase the original code if it is unknown.

    Have account number ready to enter when asked. Account number is your five digit dealer code followed by one of these numbers:

    * Chevrolet - 1
    * Pontiac -2
    * Oldsmobile -3
    * Buick -4
    * GMT-5
    * Cadillac -6
    * GM Canada -7
    * Saturn -8

    Read all steps before starting the procedure.

    If more than 15 seconds elapse between any of the steps, the radio automatically reverts to time and you must start the procedure over from step 1. In order to unlock the Theftlock(TM) system when code is unknown, perform the following steps:

    1. Press and hold push buttons 2 and 3 until a three digit code appears on the display.
    2. Write the three digit code on a piece of paper.
    3. Press the AM/FM push button, a three digit code will appear on the display again.
    4. Write the three digit code on a piece of paper.
    5. Call Delco Electronics at 1-800 - 537 - 5140.
    6. Follow the computer prompts to obtain the back-up code to be used in place of unknown code.
    7. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display.
    8. Press and hold MN until the last two digits agree with the back-up code.
    9. Press and hold HR until the first one or two digits agree with the back-up code.
    10. Press the AM/FM push button after you have confirmed that the code matches the one you wrote down. If REP appears on the display, repeat steps 7 through 10.
    11. The display will show "- - -" to indicate unknown code has been removed.

    If the back-up code does not unlock the radio, try reversing the first and last three digits of the display code.

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  • 85350x85350x Posts: 2
    i have a 96 suburban and the rear main seal is leaking. Has anyone done one of these and how difficult is it. does it requre engine removal? thank you
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Don't know for sure, but wouldn't you be able to get to it by dropping the transmission instead?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,450
    Yes you R&R the transmission and either clutch or flexplate depending on transmission.

    Book says that for manual transmission it takes a professional mechanic with all the lifts, tools, etc. about 3.6 hours and for the automatic, about 6.5 hours.

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  • I have a 2001 Chevy Surb, and recently the servce engine light came on, so I took it somewhere to get it checked, and it said that the fuel maybe to rich or lean. Now when I drove it yesterday, the light went off, and it comes back on when fuel is low. Wha do I do?
  • Dumb question. First time to change blades on this car. Wipers don't pull far away enough from windshield to allow for existing blade to be turned away from the windshield. Tried turning wipers on and off again. What am I missing here?
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