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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited November 2010
    DTC P1345 Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation Circuit Description This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) monitors the crankshaft position (CKP) and the camshaft position (CMP) signals to determine if they are synchronized. If both signals are not observed by the control module within a narrow time window, the vehicle control module (VCM) will determine that an error has occurred. Conditions for Running the DTC The engine is running Conditions for Setting the DTC When the engine is running, the cam sensor reference pulse is not detected at the correct position relative to the crankshaft position sensor pulse. Action Taken When the DTC Sets The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) the first time the diagnostic runs and fails. The control module will set the DTC and records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The control module stores the failure information in the scan tools Freeze Frame/Failure Records. Conditions for Clearing the MIL or DTC The control module turns OFF the MIL after 3 consecutive drive trips when the test has run and passed. A history DTC will clear if no fault conditions have been detected for 40 warm-up cycles. A warm-up cycle occurs when the coolant temperature has risen 22°C (40°F) from the startup coolant temperature and the engine coolant reaches a temperature that is more than 70°C (158°F) during the same ignition cycle. Use a scan tool in order to clear the DTCs. Diagnostic Aids Check the following items: A loose CMP sensor causing a variance in the sensor signal Excessive free play in the timing chain and gear assembly Incorrectly installed distributor - 1 tooth off in either advance or retard positions A loose distributor rotor on the distributor shaft A loose or missing distributor hold down bolt An intermittent may be caused by any of the following conditions: A poor connection Rubbed through wire insulation A broken wire inside the insulation

  • So what can I do to fix this then? I tried clearing it it comes right back on in 2 seconds
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited November 2010
    Well you have to check the various items listed in the last 5 lines of the description I posted.

    If the light keeps coming back on that means the problem is still there.
  • Well one plug wire on the distributor wasn't even connected but the light still comes on. Ill just have to take it in I guess. Runs better now anyways
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Did you clear the code after you stuck the wire on? I presume so. You might check all the appropriate connectors for corrosion or looseness.
  • Yeah I did, haven't checked for corrosion yet its to cold right now to keep going at it. I just hope nothing gets wrecked is all I'm worried about
  • My brother inlaw has a 99 suburban and the gas gauge flickers reall fast constantly when he turns the key on and while its running, any idea on what that might be from?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Bad gauge, or bad sender unit, is where I would start investigating.

    Do a search on bad gauges, you'll find a number of posts, and companies that rebuild them for you. Video's on how to disassemble and mail off the part for repair.

    But make sure that is indeed the problem, before sending off for a new gauge.
  • Alright I will try that. Thanks!
  • Did you ever find out what the problem was for your flashing courtesy lights?
  • yes - I had another problem with that , about every 2 months the car would start them die, would not start , wait few hours or even a day then it would start. I replaced the factory anti-theft module fixed both problems about 2 years everything fine ,no blinking interior light and has always started since replacing that part
  • I was on and was reading the posts of issues people are having with their 07 Suburbans and the like but I haven't seen any posts about what the problem was or how it was fixed!

    I have an 07 Chev Suburban LT 4x4 with the 5.3 flex fuel with 128k miles (I drive alot) that seems to have a mind of it's own. Here are my issues:

    Idles rough (missing)
    Check engine light comes on randomly
    Traction Control/Stabilitrak light (chimes) come on randomly - sometimes I am stopped in park - sometimes at a stop light - sometimes driving freeway speeds - very random.
    When starting up a small incline she will chug or hesitate and the way I get it to go away is give it more gas or take my foot off the gas.
    Hesitates on start like battery is almost dead yet the indicator says it's fine.

    The rough idle and chug on hills started first - then a few weeks later the check engine light and traction control/stabilitrac started.

    Any thoughts? We are flat broke (construction) - am getting ready to list this for sale when all this started happening so we don't have a couple hundred to throw at a dealer for diagnostics - are hoping it's spark plug wire, fuel filter something like that that we can tackle. We had the fuel pump replaced almost a year ago at the dealer.

    Also - where is the fuel filter? Is it in the gas tank like the pump therefore it's a lifetime one?

    Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!


    Norene Beaver
  • The rough idle, "chug" and hesitation could be caused by a bad spark plug. It could also be a bad spark plug wire or the fuel filter although I doubt it would be the fuel filter since that should have been changed with the fuel pump. The fuel filter should be located somewhere along the fuel lines. Mine is under the just under the driver side door on the chassis but being 10 years older then yours it may be located under the hood, but I dont think its in the fuel tank. I would pull out the spark plugs and check the condition of them, and also check the spark plug wires and see if there are any cracks or slits in the wires. If you have a bad plug it can cause a hesitation that'll make you go nuts. There are many things that can cause that. Worst case could be you have a bad injector. I have a 97 Suburban with an injector problem, idles rough at times and will hesitate pretty badly when it faces ANY sort of incline or load and thats what the injectors will cause. As for the traction control I dont have that so unfortunately I dont know why it would do that. Also if your check engine light is on you can bring it to Advance Auto or Autozone as I'm pretty sure they'll hook it up to their computer for free to see what codes are coming up. I hope this helps you out a little bit.
    Good Luck.
  • crna2becrna2be Posts: 3
    I had the same problem. Turned out to be an intake gasket that dumped one day after a hard acceleration getting onto the freeway.

    Check your oil. If it looks like chocolate milk, bingo!
  • dmolinedmoline Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    So I just went to change my brakes on my 2007 suburban and noticed this same thing. They we're so tight I had to use a hammer and punch to remove them. I was able to barely install the new pads bynalso pounding into place. I took for a drive and felt there was too much drag... So I remove pads and simply put the ends of my pads on my bench grinder to take a sliver off both sides. I reinstalled and they now have nice movement. In all my years of changing brakes I've never seen pads as tight as these so I wanted to correct and this only took 1 minute per pad.
  • jjh1972jjh1972 Posts: 1
    For starters, this is a 99 suburban now with 200.000+ miles. First noticed this last summer 2010 (had 175,000 miles on it) when we went to the mountains for a vacation and when in Knoxville heading up some not so steep grades on I40 trying to accelerate it would bucks when being bogged down and when trying to push on the fuel pedal it would continue to buck. Stop pushing the fuel pedal for a bit and it would quit as long as you werent' pushing it to really pass (not necessarily in "turbo speed", but just speeding up pretty quickly to pass). Spark plugs and wires have been replaced, mechanic changed the "distributor cap...I know that's not what it's called, it's really late and I can't think". It is still doing the bucking when giving it fuel. We live now in a place that in town is up and down hills, when going up the hill trying to stay at 45 mph it will act like a spark plug or wire is not firing right, but they are all new. Have tried fuel treatment thinking it could be bad gas. NOTHING. Any ideas????
  • cernunnoscernunnos Posts: 1
    Hey Kim, Did your replacing the crank sensor completely solve your suburban irractic shut downs? I have a 96 diesel suburban that shuts down about every 3 blocks but starts right back up, sometimes even while coasting and turning the key.I have replaced the common stuff: fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter with no prevail. I have gone through this whole thread and did not see anyone with a direct solution.
  • Hi all. Sorry if this is a repeat, I did attempt a search but did not come up with anything. I recently had the fuel pump changed on my 2005 Yukon XL (1500 SLT 2WD). Went to pick it up, and the check engine light and low fuel warning lights/message were on. Put in 10 gallons and it still read Empty with check engine light. Went right back to the shop and they read the code, decided they'd have to drop the tank again and replace the sending unit. Next day picked it up and it starts and runs fine and fuel gauge works. Then a couple days ago went to the gas station and the pump would shut off after just a few seconds. Spent about 10 minutes adding five gallons, even tried another pump, and gave up. My question is, is it possible that the shop did something to the vent or caused some other sort of problem that makes it unable to fill up easily? Or is it just that station calibrated poorly? (I go there all the time, never had a problem before.) Is it something that may go away on its own? Or do I need to go back to the shop and ask those nincompoops to try AGAIN?
  • weswes Posts: 5
    I also have 99 suburban with 245k miles. I am having the same issue. I have been told it might be the catalytic converter. I thought it might be the co2 sensors, but was told by a mechanic they were working properly, but he could not rule out the cat converter. I don't have the money to replace the converter and would be disappointed if that were not the cause. Let me know if you get it fixed.
  • kdmillerkdmiller Posts: 14
    I have had no more shutdowns since the sensor was changed. Good Luck. Kim M.
  • Ok I've been tracking this one down for a while. I searched through the forms and I can't find anything just like what I'm seeing. So hopefully someone might be able to help.

    I have a 2002 Suburban and a few weeks ago the battery seemed to die. I replaced it with a new one, even though it wasn't that old. Then only a couple weeks after that my wife called me and said it was dead again. I couldn't see how. So after much research I figured it was some parasitic draw on the battery. I hooked up my digital multimeter and traced noticed the drain. It wasn't consistent at all. I would see a little over 3 amp draw then it would settle down to about .6 amp, then back up and so on. After sitting in the car I realized that the radio was cycling ever so often. I could tell because I could hear the CD player run like it was ejecting a CD. This is all with the key out of the ignition and no power on the radio.

    One of the posts I read mentioned something about the SEO1 fuse being for OnStar. Since the OnStar doesn't work anymore I figured that would disable it. Tried it again and still the radio is resetting. BTW if I set the clock on the radio and wait for it to cycle then turn the key on the time on the clock resets to 1:00. I have also seen, on occasion the clock on the radio read ---.

    At this point I figured it was a wiring problem so I took the radio out of the dash and I does look like a mouse was in there. However; I can't seem to find any wires that are compromised. Also if I wiggle them it doesn't change the behavior.

    Anyone have any ideas or suggestions of other things to try? Is it possible that the radio really is the culprit even though when powered on it works fine?

    Thanks in advance,
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Well even .6 amp is too much drain. Have you tried pulling the fuse on the radio and them re-testing with the multi-meter?

    I have heard theories that the Body Control Module could be the culprit, but people's anecdotes were not consistent on this matter.
  • mikel41mikel41 Posts: 2
    It's low fuel pressure. It's only probably 2 to 3 lbs under the minimum pressure, but that's all it takes with the Vortec motor. Idle pressure minimum is 60psi and WOT should be in the low 70's. So either fuel filter (rarely) or fuel pump (most likely) I've had them do this with Wide Open Throttle (WOT) pressure as high as 68.
  • mikel41mikel41 Posts: 2
    I replied to the other post, check it out there. You can test if it's a cat blockage by removing the 2 o2 sensors (1 on each side) that are in front of the converters. It'll be noisy but if it's low fuel pressure, it'll behave exactly the same. (the fact that's they're disconnected won't affect the issue if it's fuel pressure) Generally a clogged converter will run very hot. as well.
  • I have a 1996 Chevy Suburban K2500 7.4L 454 4X4 with 217000 miles. Originally, driving the truck to about 40 mph would appear to slip into neutral, while the speedometer kept climbing. Stepping on the gas made the speedo go faster, but the truck did not. Once you slowed down to about 20mph, it would make a very disturbing sound like it was slamming back into gear, and you could accelerate again. At first, you could engage 4WD and it would drive up to 70mph without slipping at all. It has deteriorated to a point that driving in 4WD does the same thing now. I didn't think it was the transmission, because it drove fine in 4WD for a long time, so I suspected the transfer case. I have inspected the transfer case, and the chain and gears seem to be in good condition. I was told it could be the TCCM or the transfer case mode fork or pads. The pads are a little worn and chipped, but is that sufficient wear to cause it to act like this? What is the function of the TCCM in this process? Where is the TCCM located? I was told in the door panel, and under the steering column, but haven't really located it yet.
    What further steps can I take to troubleshoot this effectively?
  • The Service Ride Control Warning light comes on when car is started.
    How do I get rid of it?
    This wheel was in trunk for an extended period with spare on the ground.
    When tire was replaced and wheel put back in place - the warning light would not go off.
  • There are 66~ TSB's for this vehicle, some are very minor, others not so much.

    Here's just a couple;

    Bulletin No: 08-07-30-016

    Bulletin No: 4133


    Bulletin No: 060604042
    Summary Description:

    Bulletin No: 3893

    Summary Description:

    Bulletin No: 50730017
    Summary Description:

    Print out the ones your vehicle is showing symptoms, take it to the Best GM dealer nearby, take some Apples, Donuts or Eye-Candy for bribery purposes.
    Sugar gets more results than bitchin.

  • dbat124dbat124 Posts: 1
    edited December 2011
    **DECEMBER 29th 2011** I had the same problem (2003 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 - Hit a bump, door chime dings, door locks cycle, ABS and brake light comes on, "Service Brake System" warning, and a few seconds of flashing CEL) and I fixed it. In my case I confirmed the location of the problem by wiggle testing with the car running, in drive, and with someone in the vehicle with their foot on the brake - when I wiggled the offending wire there was an additional warning about something like "Low Engine Power" and the vehicle stalled.
    Here the issue/fix: If you remove the plastic cover on the motor (5/16" bolt) what appears to be a main harness that comes from the box just behind the battery crosses over the top of the engine. There are a few looms that branch off at the rear of the motor one of which contains a single wire (black w/ white stripe) that goes to ground on the rear of the motor just to the passenger side of center. The wire was corroded and heat damaged (dry, brittle) and easily broke off when I tugged on it (Only one strand of wire still still connected). The wire connects to the motor with a 13mm bolt vertically about four inches below the rear of the intake runners (I used a 1/4" drive 13mm deep socket with a three inch extension) It is a little awkward but still fairly easy to reach. I have no idea what system this wire is part of but when it was disconnected the car wouldn't start and then it didn't seem to recognize that the key was off and out of the ignition (The radio stayed on even after the door was opened and the CEL stayed lit), once I grounded the wire everything turned off. The wire was pretty much exact length so after I cut off the brittle part I had to add a length of wire so it was long enough to reach back to the bolt, I then crimped on a new ring connector, bolted it back on and the problem was solved.
    I hope this helps.
  • drvettedrvette Posts: 99
    edited December 2011
    Fantastic that you found the issue, this could have taken a Tech expert years.

    One point I'd like to make, crimping wires on low-voltage connections is risky.

    A more permanent solution is to solder them. Wal-Mart has a Ronson Butane Lighter for three bucks, Lowes' has some small spools of acid-free silver solder.

    Also, FYI a small break in the insulation on lo-volt wires can set up corrosion which is Not visible.
    This is especially problematic on engine sensor wires where the voltage is often 5vdc or so.

    On a Roadmaster SW, the ATS in the breather showed bad, a New unit still gave a code, checking the weather-tite connections indicated good conn, hmm..

    A close look at the wire and an indention was there, someone had closed the wire between the breather lid [TBI Engine] looking at the indention and a small slit appeared, I opened up the insulation and it the wire was GREEN with corrosion.

    30+yrs at Southern Co reminded me of a statement,
    "electricity travels on the outside of the wire, not the inside"

    The wire was not broken, the green stuff kept the 5v signal from traveling.
    Cut it out, heat shrink up the wire, a dot of silver solder and it ran perfect, WITH the original ATS !

    I'm SO happy someone used their head to find the issue, your method of wriggling the wires while in Drive with an assistant is a new one for me, and I've done this for over 5 decades..

    Learning Still
    Rusty Wrench
  • drvettedrvette Posts: 99
    edited December 2011
    "the left front wheel bearing is so bad it looks like the wheel is ready to fall off"

    The following is for 2wd Only.

    If yours is 4wd, another procedure is required.
    The ball joint check for 4wd is not known by me.

    The only way you'd know if the wheel brg is bad is to either Hear it or Jack it up and grab the top and bottom of the wheel to check for play.

    If the wheel is sitting at an angle, then most likely your ball joint is worn out.
    GM has a wear indicator built in ball joints, the grease fitting.

    Clean the area around the grease fitting on the ball joints, wire brush them etc. Note the Hex on the fitting where it's screwed in.

    If the bottom of the Hex on the grease fitting is flush with the ball joint, then the service life has been reached.

    DUHRusty Wrench
    aka DrVette
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