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Dodge Dakota - IV



  • quark99quark99 Posts: 136
    You'll start hoping that the guy/gal next to you in the Silverado, F-?50, Frontier, Tacoma, Tundra, or any GM truck will try to assert superiority, so you can educate him/her with a simple stab of the accelerator pedal.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    NJ, thank you for the information on the Flowmaster product. I appreciate your response.

    Resqman, congratulations and the best of luck. Sounds like a beautiful well equipped truck.

  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    I believe it's childish, uneducated, teen-age-like drivel to seriously want to race a pickup truck against someone at a stop light or a stop sign or whatever. Don't you want to fit in with society today? What with everyone labeling or suing everyone else for something or other, don't you want to 'fit in' with the rest of the world? Don't you care about the trees or little blades of grass that we as the 'superior' species have been violating with our greenhouse gas emitting / noxious spuming of spent hydrocarbons by our trucks and suv's, intent on ruining the ozone layer and sending the planet back to the ice ages? Have you no shame?! Don't you believe algore?

    Naaahhhh... I didn't think so - neither do I, let us know who you 'whip' first. ;-)
  • jkinsleyjkinsley Posts: 20
    Age and treachery will triumph over youth and innocence every time.
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Posts: 765

    Trucks are for working, not racing.

    Course he drives Porsches and I drive a 150mph+ Jag, so that helps.

    But one little tip if you really want to pound everything else on the road - put a badge on the back of your truck. No seriously.

    Now I know that some of you will be sceptical (and the Americans will be skeptical) because it doesn't seem to work for the Honda Civics at every corner, but you just have to use the right badge.

    I know this to be true because I have the right badge on the back of my Jag.

    It says V12..............
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Andy, we drink V-8 and enjoy it. Is V-12 the Canadian version of V-8 vegetable juice?

  • ozarkozark Posts: 124
    that's funny. I don't race much anymore. Not sure if it is wisdom or fear but it sure is not political correctness....Andy we still appreciate you and glad your are working on the owners group and hope you tolerate the barbarians to the south.
  • tgr1tgr1 Posts: 92
    This is my first post in several months, and looks like I have a lot of reading to catch up. My QC now has almost 10000 miles. Mileage averages about 14.5 around town, but its been dropping below 14 lately. Because of the heat, I tend to sit in the car while idling, with a/c on of course. Not one single problem to report yet, but got my first dent the other day: I missed the bed from about 15 feet away with a paint bucket. Oh well, it is a truck. As for exhaust "upgrades", remember two things: 1-this truck already has a good system (all stainless and I assume well tuned). 2-going to 3" may increase your power by a few %, but it will probably hurt the torque. My advice is to stay stock, unless you want the "sound", or the "look" of larger or chromed pipes.
    As for stoplights, the only other trucks to avoid are Lightnings, older Syclones (Cyclones?), and maybe the occasional R/T. Remember, don't do this at home, and you must be 21 or older. Void where prohibited, which is just about everywhere!
  • towcrazy2towcrazy2 Posts: 337
    You make a valid point regarding aftermarket exhaust systems! If back pressure is reduced via larger pipes and free-flow, you'd better have the "front end" set up to pump more fuel/air into the motor... Otherwise, you may pick up a few horsepower at the high end at the expense of significant losses in low-end torque... That's fine if you're always "on the cam," but how many of us REALLY drive like that day-to-day!?
  • 96g1196g11 Posts: 88
    I agree that a little "spirited driving" is great. Just don't let these little powerhouses we have intoxicate you. Part of my duties involves putting street racers in jail. The problem is rarely us middle agers but sometimes I run into a few. Most of our "problem" racers are 17 year olds that put a "pipe" on mom's accord, lower it 2 inches and call it a racer! I have clocked some of these kids running through traffic at 90-100 mph in a 40 mph zone. I once clocked a honda civic station wagon at 143 mph in a 50 mph zone approaching an intersection! It was a full race car. Please guys, play hard and have fun but let's make sure we lead a responsible example. Besides, a Dakota is too fine a thing to destroy when some dim wit pulles out in front of you.
    Please don't anyone be offended by this, for I am not criticizing, just planting a friendly reminder! Be safe and DON'T DRINK AND DRIVE, not ever, not even once.....PLEASE!
  • towcrazy2towcrazy2 Posts: 337
    Your point is well taken! I think that those of us "motorheads" who've survived this long probably have a healthy respect for careful street driving... It is, after all, a jungle out there!

    At 50, I still enjoy my "toys" (QC included)... But recognize its potential as a lethal weapon as well. Your perspectives on speeding, intoxication, etc. are valuable! My perspectives occurred in a different, but equally profound way... Working as a newspaper reporter/photographer in my 20s... Being awakened in the middle of the night to cover multiple fatality collisions, usually involving teenagers... A senseless waste of lives to be sure!

    Nonetheless... The quad just happens to be one of those vehicles that makes a great big boy's toy! Lot's of fun to play with under sensible legal parameters!
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Posts: 765
    Certainly a little more juice than V-8, not sure that it is vegetable though.

    96g11, I never, ever drive over 100km/h.

  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Your posting makes several good points. I sometimes grow impatient driving behind the stars of "Night of the Living Dead" and have to remind myself (or be reminded by "you know who") that it is not the end of the world and we will arrive at our destination a bit later, but we will at least arrive. One of the best features of speed or cruise control is that the vehicle is kept at a preset speed and there is not the tendency to go faster than one thought, common in powerful good riding vehicles such as Dakotas with V-8 engines. My dad was a police officer for 42 years in Philadelphia, and as such saw a lot more grief and trauma than he had ever desired. Thank you 96g11 for your kind and caring input.

    Andy, your quick response leads me to believe that you reside in the "Province of Denial."

  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Posts: 765
    I deny that
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    I never drive over 100mph either.
  • On April Fools Day 2000 (no kidding) I purchased a 98 Dodge Dakota Sport with 29000 miles that included the original as well as a transferable extended warranty. I was happy with it for about a month and then.........

    The automatic shift lever comes off in my wifes hand as she is putting it in gear to back out of the driveway. No big deal. It is covered and they put a new one on.

    Appointment 1: The shift lever is fixed.

    Then one morning a week or so later I shift in reverse to back out of the driveway and was greeted with a tremendous "CLUNK" coming from the drivetrain. This clunk is present nearly every time I shift in reverse from this point forward. A few days later, upon engaging reverse to back out of the driveway what do I hear to accompany the clunk, but a really obnoxious buzzing noise that lasts until it is shifted out of reverse. Schedule an appointment.

    Before the day of my appointment, I turn the key over one morning and woe is me, the fuel pump starts making a hideous whine. Oh wonderful, my confidence in this POS is hitting overdrive now. I call and add this to the list of problems they need to address.

    The night before my appointment I figure I better give the Dakota a once over just to make sure I have not missed something. Hmmmm, a slight antifreeze leak near the thermostat. That wasn't there when I bought it, oh well, I will add it to my appointment.

    Appointment 2: They only fix the antifreeze leak and order parts for the tranny buzz and tell me the fuel pump is OK. When I pick it up, I take the service manager by the hand and have him listen to the fuel pump. He finally agrees there is a problem with the fuel pump and says the clunking noise in the tranny will be fixed with the parts they ordered for the buzzing noise. Reschedule.

    Appointment 3: They fix the fuel pump and buzzing noise (so far, anyway) and tell me the clunking noise is natural and all 98 Dakotas will do it to some degree. After bickering with the service manager again he agrees to call DC and talk to the engineers about it. Reschedule.

    Appointment 4: They replace most of the parts in the differential. It still clunks. I am losing my patience. They call the engineer again. Reschedule.

    Appointment 5: They go back into the tranny, replace the valve body, service writer says it is fixed. I go to pick it up, slide er in reverse (CLUNK!!!!) I am pissed, I wanna kill. I decide it is prudent to drive home to avoid a heated battle with anyone connected to this organization (this is a 5 star dealership by the way) confrontation and decide it.

    I show up the next morning to discuss this with the GM. He is out, how convenient. I talk to some manager and the shop foreman. They tell me the clunking noise and slop in the drivetrain is natural and will not take the vehicle back for that problem.

    I call Chrysler and get a file number......what a joke that process is; they side with the dealership.

    I take the Dakota to two transmission shops, one drivetrain shop and one general mechanics shop that afternoon. 5 different mechanics from these 4 shops look at it and all agree that there is excessive slop and clunking in the drivetrain.

    I call the dealership. They don't care what anyone else says. "We will not take it back for that problem again." I call DC customer service center, they back the dealer's position. Loud clunking and excessive slop is natural in the drivetrain of a 1998 Dodge Dakota.

    What do I do now?
  • I purchased a new Dakota (5-speed)less than a month ago. From day one there was a loud clunking, metal-banging-against-metal noise in the vicinity of the transmission when I shifted from 1st into 2nd. The dealer's service department first told me what I heard was normal hydraulic clutch sounds. I have owned five different manual transmission equipped vehicles over the past 25+ years. NONE of these ever made a sound similar to what I am hearing. I took the mechanic for a ride, and he also drove the truck. When he heard the sound first-hand, he said it was probably coming from the drive shaft, and probably had something to do with the fact that the Dakota's drive shaft is in two pieces.
    "Just a normal noise, and nothing can be done about it.", said this mechanic.
    "NOT a normal noise, and something WILL be done about it," said I.
    Has anyone had any similar problem, and if so, how was it corrected?
  • njt15njt15 Posts: 20
    Thank you all!! I must say that I enjoy the conversation of fellow "gear heads", especially Dakota owners. I feel the need to share. Maybe I'm paranoid, but I do not want to be confused with a "boy racer". (Not that there is any thing wrong with that if it is done sensibly. However, what 96g11 described is wrong-- 143 in a Honda wagon. I despise that, when it happens in my neighborhood. Usually because I am a pedestrian walking my Labrador.)

    I am 33. In purchasing my Dakota Club Cab, I had to balance my improved financial my means to get a sport car with the common sense of an adult on the verge of becoming a father for the first time. I am a Mopar guy, born and raised, for better or worse. Fairly blind loyalty if you will, (yes--it has bitten me in the a**). My dad has a few antiques, a '51 New Yorker Club Coupe and a '56 300 B. Both have Hemi's, the whale motor. Anyway, I wanted something with power and a manual. I heard a lot about a stick with pipes growing up (dad is stuck in the 50's), been to many car shows, auto races,(drag and circle track), and even a few bone yards. My last car was a '94 LeBaron conv, 3.0 l; therefore, I can clearly empathise with Dakotahell. My transmission was repaired as many times as I have fingers on one hand, which,was not under warranty. I checked out the Mustang. Camaro, VW GTI, Honda Prelude, Civic SI, Neon, BMW. I was very close on the GTI and Mustang, but I did not want to be disinherited! Also, the Mustang is a 1 person vehicle. The Dakota, condidering price, financing and insurance cost, will save me about $7,000 over the next 4 years. It is my sports car. I enjoy the accelleration and the rumble of the Flowmaster, especially in second when I back off under an overpass. All of you have to admit that if you bought your truck solely for its utility, the 3.9 is adequate. You all like to accelerate, that is why you bought the 4.7 or 5.9. The Dakota also lends it self to a few more home repairs that the others. I work in an office, but I really enjoy workin on the car. It allows me to work with my hands. (I probably chose the wrong career.) Thanks for listening.

    Dkotahell, remember, unfortunately, your Dakota was built by a company that is attempting to gain market share by offering a less expensive product. To do this, many of the components were built by the lowest bidder. Considering the mileage and the used purchase, the items are maintenance issues. I agree that they are occurring 5,000-n 7,000 miles too soon. However, Consider the following, 1) how much do you like the vehicle, not considering the maintenance? 2) how much did you pay? Remember, you have no idea how the vehicle was treated or maintained prior to your purchase. Also consider that the maintenance schedule on an American car is the minimum recommended, as the manufacture generates huge revenue selling parts and service. If we maintain our Dakota's like, say a BMW, the will also go 200,000 miles.

    96g11 - thanks for the insight. I am a responsible driver. I enjoy the torque & h.p. of my 4.7l right up to the speed limit. I work in insurance claims and see the after affects like you. I would say the main cause of collisions is that drivers are not paying attention to driving.

    I will likely look into a driving school, SCCA club race or go to the drag strip to satisfy the need to go fast. If there is going to be a Dakota owners Club, is there any interest in auto cross? I ask because in SCCA, you have to compete with the camaros and Trans Am's. Don't get me wrong, like to compete, but it isn't a fair fight.
  • njt15njt15 Posts: 20
    To help minimize this, I went with a K & N. They are about $40 and last a lifetime. There may be something to the diminished low end torque. My friend has a stock 4.7 and thinks his is faster, he drove mine-- we didn't race. Unfortunately, I do not think he is pulling my chain, but I still have to drive his.

    Decidedly, however, mine sounds much better!

    Mopar Performance now makes a chip for the 4.7 Dakota. It is $329. Does anyone have any experience with the chip. I know how they are supposed to work and what they are supposed to do, but are the increases noticeable and, frankly, worth the $$? Thanks. Sorry, I am soo chatty. Too much coffee and a pregnant wife.
  • bigal31bigal31 Posts: 189
    I don't know alot about the performance chips,but I do know you will need to use at least 92-93 octane.Is it worth the x-tra $$? Maybe maybe not.You'll have to decide..
    My .02$
  • quark99quark99 Posts: 136
    Bought my Neon R/T performance ECU from local dealer wanted $265, quoted me $195.......yes, the gain was noticeable...(+10HP, +8 lbs of torque)
    I'd imagine the chip would boost performance about 6-7%...that would equate to 15-17 HP and 20-23 lbs of torque.....hmmm, that means the 4.7l could be rated at 250HP, 320 lbs of torque......not bad. The only downside will be the increased gas expense of premium unleaded. Toss an intake, UDP, and better-breathing exhaust and you might make 275HP and 345 lbs of torque.
    Good luck! Let us know how it goes...dyno test?
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    I've run Porsches (currently) & Vettes (late 70s and early 80s) in auto-x and solo events for a couple of decades. So far this year (to date), only one 'pony' car has bested my Solo time(s) at the 'local' track: an SVO Mustang. I've beaten about two or three dozen 'lightly' prepped stocker ponies by less than a half second to about 1.25 seconds, depending on weather.

    Oh, and I left the Porsches at home. I ran the Quad just as a 'novelty.' ;-))
  • njt15njt15 Posts: 20
    To confirm, you drove your Quad and beat the Porsche's and most of the Mustangs?

    I lack a great deal of knowledge about the above events, but certainly, your driving ability has to be the equalizer. Aren't good results contingent mainly on handling and to a lesser degree acceleration?
  • njt15njt15 Posts: 20
    Allen-- it is all about acceleration! (right up to the speed limit). :)

    quark-- Thanks for the Koller Dodge info. I actually live and work near there. I'll stop there at lunch. To date it is difficult to feel the mod's that I have made. So, far I have changed to Mobil 1, added a K & N and a Flowmaster cat-back kit. I'm skeptical of the advertised increases because the are often gained right at the redline; hard to fell in regular driving. I thought about headers, but they do not appear to be for the weekend mechanic. Also I have concerns about the warranty issue.
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    Mainly Camaros and Trans Ams - not very good unless prepped for auto-x. The SVO was extremely well balanced, yet driven by a young lady who had only run a few events - though she is a VERY good kart racer, much better than I ever was. And NO! I didn't beat any Porsches - we just drive the same general course; I left my 944 at home so I thought I'd just run the Quad, as I've done a few times now. This truck has an amazing chassis/drivetrain!

    The key to auto-x, particarly SOLO type events is 'smooth rules, and you rule if you're smooth.' I was lucky to have run over a hundred of the things in 25 years, and have learned & 'borrowed' many, MANY treacherous little tricks for winning. Tires (particularly pressures), corner weighting and a positive attitude are each a BIG part of winning - much more than my being any better than the other guy (I'm certainly not). It's one sport where luck doesn't seem to help 'much' - unless your main competitor busts out with hives or something. ;
  • edermaredermar Posts: 10
    Sorry if this has been answered before: Wondering if there is an aftermarket source for carrying racks on the Dakotas.Without the stake holes I don't know to set one up. I'm looking for a system that would allow transport of a canoe or ladder.Any sources out there? Thanks
  • robyn5sjwrobyn5sjw Posts: 1
    Hello all from a new Dakota owner. Have tried the ignition on-off trick to get the trouble code, if any. Is there a list of the trouble codes and what they mean on the internet somewhere, or anywhere we can get to them?
    Only trouble I've had is the cruise control worked the first day, now won't. The dealer has ordered another computer for it, said they've never seen this before...and there is one error code.
    Thanks in advance!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Ask and you shall receive... Here are the trouble codes. I also have the real DC shop Manual if the following URL is incorrect/outdated
  • The only problem with the codes listed in:

    is that they are for a 1996 Dakota. Should be okay, but some may change. If you get a code, ask us in the forum. Several of us have BOB (Big Orange Book) and will be glad to look them up for you.

  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    How about "P 1491" for a code? Since it's not listed at the site.
This discussion has been closed.