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Chrysler Pacifica Starting and Stalling Problems
Having a no-start or stalling issue? This is the place to work out a solution!
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Comments
--> Have a radar/laser detector plugged in and the outlet seems to be turned on all the time, even when the vehicle is shutdown and no key in ignition.
I quickly realized that it was caused by those 8 or so interior lights that the Pac has. I actually figured out the current and power consumption of all those lights and decided to turn them off so when the doors open they would not come on. Have not had a repeat of a battery drain since despite the fact that my car is regularly parked in the garage for over a week without being started.
It happened to me on a long weekend in Aug. at the cottage. The battery was drained (lift gate was not completely shut leaving the lights on). It does not take long to drain the battery with those lights. I called for road side, waited for more than 2 hrs. Of course, they can not find my cottage...
I recently turned the lights on again one night, I noticed that when locking the car by using the lock button on the driver arm rest, it actually makes all lights dim when it clicks. Scarrry... now all lights are off again to protect the battery.
My question is what would happen in the winter when it -40 outside, snow storm, and you have everything on, heater. defrost, rear window, etc... AND driving in the slow traffic, may be the battery would die by the time you get home?
Has anybody tried to remove some of the lights?. ONE light is good enough for me.
"My question is what would happen in the winter when it -40 outside, snow storm, and you have everything on, heater. defrost, rear window, etc... AND driving in the slow traffic, may be the battery would die by the time you get home?"
Answer:
Even if the battery "dies" you alternator would provide enough power for the car to be drivable. Alternators, as opposed to the old generators, put out more power at lower RPMs. Still, you could drain the battery if you have all your headlighs, tail lights, heater, defroster, etc on at the same time and your engine is at idle much of the time. You can easily draw 40-50 Amps with all lights and accesories on. If you are in super bad, stop and go traffic, you may want to raise the RPMs a little bit, say to 1200-1500 for periods while you're stopped and keep an eye on your temperature gauge in the process.
Look in the owner's manual, it will walk you through it, if yours is so equipped.........
I wouldn't think removing the lights is a great idea, you may want them on one day, just get a stronger battery possibly?
You didn't mention this either way on your post ...............
"I wouldn't think removing the lights is a great idea, you may want them on one day, just get a stronger battery possibly?"
I don't think that we're talking about removing the lights. Simply turn them off using the rotating "ring-switch" located on the multi-function light-stalk on the left side of the steering wheel. Just click it to the off position as you leave the vehicle and click it back on when you need the lights. As I posted above, the lights use nearly 8 amps, which work out to be roughly 100 Watts, nearly the same amount of power use as if you left your headlights ON continuously.
Getting a bigger battery may bot be the solution, it may not fit and still it might drain. That load is just too much to be on for any lenghts of time.
I am aware that the "all off" postion exists, I use it at night in buggy Houston .........
I was not having any electrical problems at all..........As a matter of fact, half of the problemsquestions with the Pacifica I have read here could be eliminated or explained if every owner read the owner's manual completely...............
And petew, it sounds like you are claiming a lot of us are lying. Again, no comment due to site rules. I have never been happier with a car than I have been with my Pacifica. And I have mentioned on this forum every single issue I have had. Each one was a minor annoyance and was taken care of by Chrysler. My Pac has always run perfectly and currently, for a long time, has had zero issues. I'm amazed every day by it.
I just wanted to comment on the clunking thing... I don't believe it has anything to do with warped rotors. I say this because I have had rotors replaced three times in the past, on two different cars and this clunking is not, at least in my experience, what occurs when rotors are warped. Typically, the car begins to shake when coming to stop and it progressively gets worse. Further, I noticed the clunking in my car at around 2,500 miles, so if the rotors were the cause (which I don't think is the case, like I said), then they are also using defective or crappy rotors in production.
Also, would you mind telling me what kind of offer Daimler made you on your first lemon? I just received word that they want to settle and I just want to know if I should expect something crazy or reasonable on the first go.
Thanks!
sorry, but i disagree with this analysis a bit. Kinda makes it sound like those with no problems are a small population, and that's just not true. I would say you are an unlucky one, and happy problem-free owners are just the standard.
Reminds me very much of Pilot/MDX transmission troubles. So many people making statements about the cars being junk, lemons, etc, etc. In the end, those affected by the transmission troubles amounted to less than 1% of owners.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
YES, it also happened to me. The battery was dead because the liftgate was not closed tight; with too many interior lights on; 10 to be exactly.
WHO NEEDS THAT MANY LIGHTS??
If many people have this problem, then I think the battery in under rated. DC should install the more heavy duty battery in the Pacifica.
I check in with another forum and discover that the Pacifica has the "Battery Saver" feature.
FYI:
From 2004 the Service Manual:
INTERIOR LIGHTING BATTERY SAVER
If any of the interior lamps are left ON after the
ignition is turned OFF, the BCM will turn them OFF
after fifteen minutes. To return to normal operation,
the courtesy lamps will operate after the dome lamp
switch or door ajar switch changes state. The reading
lamps and glove box lamp operate under the same
conditions as the courtesy lamps.
My "Battery saver" did not work before. The dealer said they fixed it but I have not tested it out. With winter is here, 15 minutes under sub-zero can kill the battery for sure!. For now, I just turn off the light (using the rotary switch at the turn signal handle). And turn it on only when I really need it.
If enough people complain, may be DC will install the RV battery in Pacifica!!!
I have a theory (no way to prove it) that some of our Pacificas "sat around the lot" for awhile before they found their homes, and maybe the original battery discharged to zero big time. As we all know by now, that is not a good thing , and the original battery would never fully recover from such a disharge. This would mean you were operating with a battery that has , say, 60% of the efficiency (whatever you want to call it) of a brand new out of the box battery....That would lead to trouble with a Pacifica and all of it's bells and whistles....Comments?
and swapped it out for a brand new one. They did not charge us for the mileage, and the payments that were made were just applied to the new loan.
This all happened last February. We were one of the first to complain about the stalling problem and Chrysler had not figured anything out yet. Good luck
On the brake thing, the dealer told us the clunking sound was because of the warped rotors. Thanks for the tips, i'll investigate more.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Brad
The second problem is addressed in TSB 1803905 dated December 5, 2005. This has to do with the canister that captures fuel vapors from the fuel tank. At some point between a full tank and 5/8's of a tank, the computer tells the system to vent these vapors into the fuel injection system causing a temporary rich condition in the fuel injection system. This rich condition will cause the car to idle too slow and stall when the driver is making a slow speed left turn and lifts off of the throttle. I do not know if there will be a recall. I have driven 3,000 miles since I had the TSB done, and the car has not stalled. I guess I will try to remember to never lift my foot off of the throttle when making a slow speed left turn. Hope this helps.
First the stall prob. I tell the service rep, very nicely mind you. "By the way, there is a TSB for this car for I know alot of Pac owners have suffered from this stalling problem. I have the TSB # if that helps"
His response, "No, we don't go by that. There are tons of TSB's out there" "We'll check the car out for codes".
Ooookaaaaaay.
I got the same response for the dash light problem. Which kind of makes sense in this case since it is an unusual problem.
Now the door, I was very specific about this. I said it was the door BEHIND the driver seat where the lock-unlock button is inoperable. I mentioned that the switch felt loose to the touch and can only be opened by unlocking the power door lock in the front.
Also, I mentioned that every now and again while in traffic, I get a bit of a delay bump during slow acceleration. It was one of those bumps that did not feel too normal so I thought I'd mention it.
Anyway, the loaner experience was excellent, I'll give them that. Although I wasn't too happy about driving a gas guzzling Dodge Durango w. a V8.
Back to the point. 3 DAYS LATER. They tell me the car is ready.
1) They could not duplicate the stall nor could they find any codes. I'm relieved that this only happened once and hopefull never again.
2) The found no codes for the dash light prob. and could not duplicate the problem. I find that troubling for that is an electrical problem but at least it's on record.
3) Found no problem w. the tranny and could not duplicate the problem. I noticed a similar but lesser bump on the Durango so maybe it's nothing.
4) Fixed door switch by moving child safety switch to unlock position. Dude, it was already in the unlock position. What was broken was the unlock switch inside the friggin car. Duuuuhhh!
5) They got rid of the check engine light. Mind you that I did not have a check engine light when I brought it in.
3 days and $120.00 in car rental fees later(covered by Chrysler of course) and they could not fix a damn thing. Not even an lock/unlock switch. LOL
I really hope you guys out there are getting better service than this. Mind you, this is a reputable 5 star dealership. Next time I take it in for the door switch problem, I will put a giant yellow tag on the lock w. the word "BROKEN" on it. Maybe that will help.
I was wondering if anyone had tried using 93 octane to see if it made a difference. I did go ahead and report it to the NHTSA. I'm glad that this forum provided the info. Thanks for the positive response.
I'am now starting a log and awaiting a return call from the service manager . are there any steps that I should be taking in case this matter can not be resolved the first time out with the service deparment. THANK YOU ALL FOR ANY AND ALL HELP
I would not wait for a return call from the service manager. I would drive to the dealer and politely ask that they check for a code for the stall and do the TSB. Your wife and your mom are driving this vehicle, and you need the TSB done. Good luck!
I still think the stalling goes beyond what Chrysler's saying. I think they have the fuel-air mixture too lean on startup for emission control regs. Since they can't change that, they're trying to rig things up. If it starts stalling again, I'll be back...
I just got mine out of shop a week ago for 3rd time in. I had the latest and greatest fix but of course had a stall again.
How is your process going? I have to get my act together. I lost one of my receipts that was the 2nd time I took it in. I am afraid if I request a copy they are going to realize why and freak out on me. Are you dealing with the dealership at all or going straight thru corporate and the lemon process?? :sick:
Thank you all for your time and HAPPY and safe driving
Dealer has performed and assured me that each following fix will fix the problem. Well so far they have been incorrect.
1.Replace both fuel pumps.
2 Replace fuel lines from tank to throttle body.
3 Replace solenoid
4 Replace PTU
5 Replace Catalytic converter
6 Replace Throttle body positioner sensor.
7 Software upgrade
This is where I am at.
Filed a complaint with the NHTSA. At their request I sent them all my repair orders.
Filed a complaint with the Michigan AG's office against the dealer and Chrysler.
Filed a complaint with Chrysler against the dealer.
Retained a Lemon Law attorney.
Sent a Last Chance Letter via Certified mail to Auburn Hills.
I phoned Chrysler Financial today and told them I am stopping payments.
I was told by Chrysler Customer Service today that the reason I haven't received a phone call because the Regional Manager has been on vacation(for 3 weeks?). I can't belive how unprofessional that the dealer and Chrysler has been on this issue.
I have learned that the NHTSA has over 60 complaints filed on this paticular problem. This past Feb. NHTSA has launched an investigation and has requested all information from Chrysler. I have asked everyone that I have spoke to at Chrysler if they are aware of this problem, and they reply NO.
More later..........