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Toyota Land Cruiser Maintenance and Repair



  • hprjrhprjr Posts: 24
    I have a 2001 LC with 121,000 miles. It seems that the toyota dealerships are not performing the re-packing the front bearings as required by the maintenance book every 30k unless requested. What are you other owners experiecing with this, and ard are there any bearing issues as a result? Thanks for any help.
  • I bought my neighbor's 1999 Land Cruiser for next to nothing. It has 190k miles (perfect cosmetically) but recently developed a blown head gasket I think (reason for the price). The exhaust is white and the engine shutters until it warms up. So I need a local WLA mechanic to take a look at the engine and see if I can afford to fix it or whether I will just flip or part it out. Appreciate any suggestions.
  • bulletheadbullethead Posts: 40
    Been a while since I last posted (a good thing) - my one-owner 2000 TLC, 96k miles, full 90k maint done, new wheels/tires, etc, with a fresh detail job and ready to be sold to the next owner, surprised me today with a "check engine / VSC-Trac, VSC-Off" - the owners manual simply states "have your vehicle checked by a Toyota dealer ASAP" - any idea as to the scope of "issues" that relate to this warning? Many thanks in advance

  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    Check fuses, 02 sensor?
  • maartenmaarten Posts: 5
    Could be one of your ABS sensors. On some models when the traction control fails for one or another reason the engine output is reduced to avoid high speed problems.

    Feedback on the cause of your specific problem is much appreciated.

  • OK, this is a gem and wouldn't let it go ever! 250,000 miles and runs like new. However, last night driving the head lamps/dash lights began pulsing --the Oil, ABS, A/T, and Voltage RED light all came on and the volts were at 18+. Never happened before other than I've noticed at idle the volts were dropping and the lights would dim. My 1st thought is the alternator/voltage regulator? It is the original!
    Any ideas?
  • jbc111jbc111 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2006 LC from a Lexus dealership after having it evaluated by my Toyota dealer with a good check-up. The LC has 80k miles. I have experienced a problem with the truck from the 1st month I had it and it involves a huge "thunk" noise either just before I come to a complete stop and/or just as I'm accelerating from a complete stop. I've had the dealer look at it and he tells me this is normal as the LCs have a little slip room in the drivetrain and it is normal to experience a thud that sometimes feels like you're tapped from behind by another car when stopping. This noise is VERY noticeable and EXTREMELY annoying. I've had the drivetrain pulled and the yokes lubed and it did not help. That solution did help the same problem that I had with a 2002 4-Runner, but not this LC. PLEASE HELP.
  • Did Toyota do this service for you? What you describe is somewhat typical. But......did you have only one drive shaft pulled, or both? Sometimes the grease fittings that connect to the T Case can be over filled and this can add to this problem.

    With two differentials, two drive shafts and 4 yokes, there are lots of moving parts. Have you checked the torque of the nuts at each end of the drive shafts and all other undercarriage fasteners? Do you have running boards installed? Check those nuts.
  • I just had a problem with my car,Perhaps someone can help me fix it or give me an idea what it can be.. My abs light went on and the brake light went one..both of them are on and i do not have brakes... ( i went ahead and checked if brake were gone but they are perfect) a friend said it can be the the "brake master cylinder" Please if someone know's anything Please help or advise.. thanks

    God Bless
  • zaxizaxi Posts: 5
    I am driving with the light on for the last 4 years,
    I had similar problem, my are locking every once in a while when I start moving from Stop sign or red light. and the lights come on.
    This problem don't show up on the computer, so it is hard to diagnose .
    In my opinion the front rotors need to be replaced.
    I don't think it is the pump or the master cylinder.
    But your brakes are fine it is only the ABS function that is not working.
    not a big deal unless you are on snow or wet road.
    It can be very expensive because the "morons" at the dealership will start changing anything in the car untill they figure out what cause the problem.
    This is why I drive the that and I even pass the inspection twice.
    Let me know if you find out something else.
  • so i took it to the dealer and the did the check up and came out to be it was the ABS PUMP MOTOR they advised it would cost $3230.94 .(i almost doped dead) . I currently do not have brakes.. just a little when i push it all the way down... i am trying to find out where i can purchase abs pump to do the work...
  • I really need some help here with my LC. I posted last month with the original problem but now an update. After replacing the Alternator I now have more problems. Now the Voltage light, Oil light and A/T transmission light is on. Before they would go on and off and the volatge meter would go up and down. Now the light stay on solid and the voltage meter is steady at over 16 volts. The only time the lights go off is when you let off the gas and the rpm's drop below 500. TOuch the gas and the lights come right back on. Took it to a battery/alternator shop and they said the Alternator is bad (brand new alternator) so I am stuck. I don't want to spend another $250.00 on a alternator and blow it up. I don't think it is the alterantor since I can still drive it now and the battery is charging. Can anyone give some guidance on what could be causing this issue> I am willing to donate if you have a pay-pal account or other transaction via the internet.
    THanks Derrick
  • 4toys4toys Posts: 14
    I too just bought a 2006 Landcruiser and it has the same problem with the "clunk" noise in the drive shaft somewhere. Was your problem fixed at the dealer?
  • 4toys4toys Posts: 14
    I bought a 2006 Landcruiser and it has a clunk noise in the drive line when I am coming to a stop or just accelerating. The noise appears to be worse if I am stopping on a hill. I saw a post that someone has the same problem and wondered if the dealer was able to fix the problem.
  • 2000 TLC - 99k miles, with the top-to-bottom 90k maint already done

    ...this has to be some sort of regular thing that can be "addressed" easily - here is the scenario.... was backing out of the driveway this AM - came to a stop after backing out, turned the wheel and stepped on the gas a little, but the tranny was not in "D", but instead in "N"...... with my 3 yr and 5 yr old carrying on in the back seat, i did not notice the engine was reving slighty, so when I pushed the tranny from "N" to "D", the result was a "clunk" when the reving engine met the tranny .. the warning lights came on just then... stopped the truck, turned it off and restarted it... drove a mile to karate practice - it sat for an hour and I then drove back home... the lights are still on, but me thinks it is something that can be addressed - last time it was the O2 sensor.... which I replaced.... any ideas?

  • My 96 LC fan belt make loud noise on starup and disappeared a minute later. I replace a new set of belt, new idle and pulley and have the same problem. Can any one let me know how to fix this problem.
  • Have you lubed the drive shaft yokes for both front and rear? And check the torque.

    The drive shaft "clunk" is fairly common and is usually solved by lubing at each end.

  • Error code P1120 - Accelerator Pedal Position sensor error - car started up, ck engine light appeared and while the car was runnning, pressing the gas pedal did nothing in terms of rev'ing the engine.... turned the car off, restarted it and waalaa! all is back to normal - the frequency of this happeing is approx 1x/ month, or every 500 miles... got a quote from the local foreign repair joint - $parts $700, labor $300.... my old mechanic says more like $350 with a used part installed.... am going that route
  • My 99 TLC is GREAT except for an intermittent problem I have been experiencing for a few months. From a full stop the vehicle appears to have no problem getting up to speed. Then once at speed, stepping on the accelerator does NOTHING until you push it about 75% to the floor. Once I push the pedal close to the floor the vehicle begins to accelerate. I have noticed that stopping and restarting often corrects the problem and the vehicle again drives normally. This appears to be an electronics issue to me however I seek the advice of others here with experience. I have also observed that using the cruise control to accelerate does NOT experience the acceleration problem as I do when using the accelerator pedal. I have changed out the throttle position sensor with a new OEM sensor and the problem still exists. I have spoken with a Toyota dealer about the problem and they don't know. I once read about the same problem on the internet that someone else was experiencing but can not recall the outcome. Any knowledge here is appreciated.
  • Have you tried changing your fuel filter? And brand of gas? Do you run regular or premium?

    Fuel injector service done? Throttle body cleaned?

  • I had a similar problem over a couple of years. It would happen 1 time in half year, 3 times in one day. Very strange, couldn't find it. Basicly it was the feeling of the fuel pump cutting out. I drove for month's with a check light on the fuel pump to see if this happend it realy was the fuel pump or the power to it. no result. Suddenly it got worse, engine cutting out when making a slow right turn. In the beginning this only happend quickly and went by quickly. Days later it became more frequent and finally the Landcruiser came to a halt. We started to touch the wireloom and suddenly it ran again. 2 Days later again, luckily in front of the door of our workshop. With 2 mecanics we started to touch and fiddle around with the wireloom in the engine bay. Suddenly it stopped. Lucky us. We found the main wire loom going from the engine bay into the passenger side creating the problem. We pulled it, nothing happend, we pushed it inwards, engine stopped / started to run irregular. We checked all plugs going into the ECU, touched all the wires, checked the grounds by measuring resistance etc. We found nothing but the problem has gone since. What we think is that one of the little contacts inside the larger plugs was not 100% in contact or tight and created this happening. We have our own Toyota test equipment wich is up to date and we have a lot Landcruiser expirience, maybe the most this side of Europe, but still we got fooled by this. It was the kind of thing that didn't showed up in the diagnostic tool, never. we found other things using the diagnostic tool but none of them was pointing towards this.

    On another Landcruiser, and for the USA Im speaking about the V8 gasoline only as we have many more variations overhere, we found irregular performance on some days, some weeks coming and going. This was with one that had the TRD supercharger ( police version ) and we found 2 coils being bad. After checking around with customers we sold the superchargers to we found 2 of them had the same problem. This was fixed after knowing where to look at. Big difference as one day the Landcruiser was sluggish and the other day it was jumping over the intersection if you only looked at the throttle. Apparantly the supercharger pressurizing the engine including our quality fuel of 98 octane made the coils working hard and now we advice new coils at 100.000km ( 60.000 miles ) to keep this away.
    Hope this helps.
    With best regards and have a great Xmas.
    Maarten from the Netherlands
  • I use premium fuel only. The fuel filter is not the problem as I change it out about every 25k-35k miles and the current filter has about 5k miles of fuel through it. The symptoms the engine is experiencing does not appear to be congruent with injector problems. When the engine is running without interruption of power loss the engine runs perfectly normal and smooth without any hesitation. As I already described, the problem is NOT present when the cruise control is used. I believe using the cruise control bypasses the problem which I believe to be the pedal position sensor. The cruise control does not actuate the pedal and appears to directly control the throttle body. If this is the scenario then I believe the pedal position sensor is the culprit and I expect to change the PPS out this week and see what happens. Often completely shutting the engine down and restarting corrects the problem. If this were an injector problem I do not believe shutting the engine down and restarting would remedy an injector problem. I have inspected and cleaned the throttle body. It did not require cleaning however I serviced it anyway. Everything appears to operate normally in the throttle body. I have checked all the wires and connections I could find under the hood but have not traced the wires going into the cockpit of the vehicle. The battery is also a new battery as of 6 months ago. I believe this to be an electronic problem of some type based upon the behavior I have observed and not a mechanical failure. The engine light is not illuminated. If the engine light is illuminated then an error code can be read with an OBDII. The problem is indeed intermittent although is occurring with greater frequency lately. Thank you for the replies. If anyone has experienced the same issue and you determined the exact fix I would appreciate reading from you. When the power loss occurs the engine does not run irregular. The pedal is simply not responsive. To gain acceleration I have to push the accelerator pedal almost to the floor and then the engine responds. Again the symptoms completely go away if the cruise control is engaged. This is why I think it might be a pedal position sensor.
  • tedantedan Posts: 3
    Have you resolved your Land Cruisers problem? Did you replaced the Accelerator Position Sensor? I'm having the same problem with my 99 LC. Only difference this that during when gas pedal is not responding, cruise control also doesn't work. This started once past summer and didn't have a problem again till a month ago. Now it seems to occur more frequent.
  • tedantedan Posts: 3
    Changing the Accelerator Pedal Position sensor take care of your LC's problem? My LC is doing the samething as yours.
  • I fixed mine by changing the lever assembly throttle. My 1999 Land Cruiser uses the hybrid throttle linkage (it is not 100% throttle by wire as the newer vehicles are 100% throttle by wire). Specifically the part is the where the actual throttle cable is connected to a spool. This is what failed. I changed this out and the vehicle is back to 100%. I hope this helps those of you who have the same issue. There are other things that can be the cause however this was my fix.
  • bill_lbill_l Posts: 38
    My 2000 LC was hit on the rear door 6wks ago on a snowing day. The rear door and the frame behind it were repaired and did not see any other problems.

    However today, these 3 lights, ABS, VSC Trac and VSC Off, were on after 10-15mins driving, but they were not on in the first 10-15min after engine re-started. This phenomenon is repeatable. Does anyone have any clue of the problem? Your help and information will be highly appreciated.
  • bdkernbdkern Posts: 1
    Check the Sequoia forums which start with 2001. There are numerous issues related to lights coming on and transmission problems in the Sequoia. It may or may not be related or similar.
  • Three words you need to remember...SHELL PREMIUM GASOLINE. If you're putting regular or mid-grade gas into this fine piece of machinery you're asking for it, and should perhaps be subject to execution for stupidity. I've had my '99 Cruiser since 2002 and it'still running like a top. I love my LC!!!
  • Profinity,
    What a relief, I'm having the EXACT same problem with my 1999 Land Cruiser. Can you please tell me what part you had to buy, part number, where you bought it, etc...Any useful info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  • I'm having the same problem with my 98 LC, when its cold out below freezing the throttle does not always respond. Its quite dangerous when you need to get into traffic and nothing happens. Did you figure out how to fix yours and can you please share the details as my dealer has no clue what to do. Seems like this might be related to the other Toyota throttle problems and should be fixed by the factory.
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