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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Suspension and Ride



  • gkitegkite Posts: 11
    Check out the intermediet shaft on the steering column. I have a Chevy 1500HD and I have replaced mine 2 times, getting ready to replace again. Supposably they have finaly redesigned it, and it's not supposed to fail. It is a known problem, check with GM.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Bump Clunk bump clunk...replace the intermediate steering shaft with part no. 19153614. Part updated 3/07. Simply amazing took GM only 8 years to revise the part affecting millions of trucks.
  • I have a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado z71 4x4 with a 1.5'' leveling kit, but it's not completely leveled out perfectly. Could I raise my torsion keys up an inch to make it completely leveled out or is that not possible?
  • ntsmith69ntsmith69 Posts: 5
    does the spindle and drive axle.tie rod, have to removed to gain acces to remove the lower ball joint. and it says that these are pressed in. but looking at the top of it there is no way it can be pressed down. it still has the factory joint. are they rivited on and thats why i can not break the seal. lol i beat on it with a pickle fork but didnt budge.

    the upper and lower ones i bought look like ford ones and are a pressed in type, with a snap ring on the top. but the ones on the truck have a large cap and looks like i rivited on or a replacement one would bolt on.
  • Hello,
    I crawled under my 2000 Silverado 2500 Ext. 8 Ft bed yesterday to change my shocks. Starting at the rear drivers side I noticed that the bracket that attaches the shock to the frame was broken. The bracket looks to be rusted and Im sure most of the rust is from the truck spending alot of its life up north. Upon futher inspection all other shock brackets look fine its just the drivers side rear top bracket that attaches to the frame. The million $ question is will I have to fab a new bracket or is there a place to buy this.
  • pz82pz82 Posts: 1
    I have an 09 chevy 2500HD and just put a plow on it. I want to make sure the plow mount doesn't hit the curbs when plowing. Is it best to add a leveling kit or can I crank up the torsion bars? How hard is either option to do?

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Cranking the torsion bars are definitely the more economical way to go. Course you may not care for how the truck rides and handles after doing so. Make sure you have the truck aligned if you choose this option.
  • I have a 2001 silverado 4x4, 5.3, LS, extended cab, shift buttons on the dash. When I get up to speed on the highway 50+, the truck makes alot of noise, similar to tire noise. Changed tires, now have MIch. Cross Terrans on it, still have the noise, turn the wheel some to the right, noise goes away, changed the wheel bearing, still have the noise, have been told it could possibly be in the rack or power steering pump. I feel this in the wheel as well. The person who told me about the ps pump told me to change out the fluid in the pump and put in the lucas oil ps fluid and then top it off with new fluid recommended by gm and drive it. Said it should stop it. Help?
  • I have a 2005 gmc sierra 4x4 slt crew cab it shakes really bad (steering wheel goes from left to right) when getting on the brakes. I already replaced the tires,tierods,(inner & outer) brakes and rotors!$$$$$$$$
    Doesn't feel like warped rotors because steering wheel shakes from side to side!
    Can someone help? Spending too much $$$$$
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Have you checked the balljoints and control arms?
  • alc8alc8 Posts: 4
    how involved is it to replace the front wheel bearing housing? what is the torque on the axle nut? any others things to look out for?
  • I have had some front end "rattles" at low speed when travelling out my dirt road which has a few bumps. Quiet on paved roads. On inspecting under the front end for loose shock, etc. I was surprised to find what appears to be a "crack" in the lower LH control arm right where the torsion bar mounts. It is almost perfectly halfway up so I thought this must have been made in two pieces bolted together but I do not see the crack on the other (front) side. I also did not find any seam or crack on the RH side. I wondered if this is a casting seam, or if it really is a crack it is not in a very good spot as failure would be problematic. Anyone ever seen a cracked lower control arm??? Never plowed- only has the little 4.3 V6 engine.????? Only 51K miles with Tow Package. Never any accidents.
  • i installed air bags on the rear of my truck.Should have done this a long time ago. The ride is awsome & can handle anything i pull.
  • I have a 2002 2WD, regular cab Sierra, does anyone have any suggestions for finding a lift kit for this model? I don't want to go very extreme, just give it a little more ground clearance. The one problem I'm going to run into is that I previously lowered the rear end of the truck (had the front leaf spring hangers cut off and I'm not sure how many bolts are needed to reattach them to the frame since the factory rivets were cut out)

    Any ideas?
  • mjcntnmjcntn Posts: 2
    Hello all,

    I'm struggling to find the parts I'm looking to replace on my '95 Chev 3500 2wd. Quick story; the spare's winch cable rusted & broke, and allowed the wheel to jump up and knock the driver's side rear shock absorber. The impact broke the Shock Mount Bracket free from the rearmost cross member of the truck frame.

    I've found replacement mounting brackets (small U-shaped piece of steel), but because the original bracket broke away, it will be difficult to (reliably) reattach the replacement.

    I would like to replace the actual cross member component, but haven't had any luck with the GM dealership or general parts distributors.

    Aside from the junkyard, any ideas on where I might be able to find what I'm looking for?

    As far as I know, the frame might be the same on all 2500 & 3500 truck frames, between '89 and '98. If it comes down to the salvage yard, is there anything in particular I should look for/ avoid?
  • harmon1833harmon1833 Posts: 2
    edited October 2010
    My 2009 Silverado (bought in January of 2010 with 9 miles), has less than 14,000 miles on it and the front end has ate the inner tred off. The dealer says it's my fault because i didn't have the tires rotated at 6,000 and 12,000 miles and that I would have known there was a problem if I had brought it to them (45 minutes from the town I live in) to have the services done. Now they want me to pay for an alignment, and say that the tires have to be replaced immediately because they are on the verge of a blowout. Anyone else had to have an alignment on new vehicle with less than 14,000 miles?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    What the dealer said is true. If you had the tires rotated at the recommended interval, someone would have discovered that the tires were wearing unevenly and would have recommended an alignment at that time. It doesn't take much to throw off a vehicle's alignment. Bumping into a curb could do it due to the weight of the vehicle.

    One other thing though, I think you could get a better price and service from a tire dealer rather than have the dealer do it. Some dealers have the tires subbed out to a tire dealer for installation and alignment rather than do it themselves.

    Since I have a friend who owns a shop with an alignment machine, I have mine's checked within the first thousand miles just to be safe as it ultimately is your responsibility.
  • Hi, Had the exact same thing with the front tires happen on my 2008 Sierra although I did have mine rotated every 5,000 -7,000 miles & then neglected for too many miles at which time it was noticed & an alignment preformed. I agree an ailgnment at low mileage seems strange, maybe ours came from the factory that way?. I am a stickler about tire care so to me it was just me being lazy as I usually rotate quite often, highly recommended for many reasons. Good luck!
  • I have a 2007 silverado Classic with only 50,000 miles on it, and am having the lower balljoints replaced today. The garage doing the job is a friend it is not like they are pulling a fast one. I am just wondering if any one else has had a similar issue with balljoints wearing this soon. I bought the truck from a dealer 2 years ago with 17,000 miles and it was used by the dealer so it has been treated well by them, as well as myself. Just curious...seems like balljoints normally don't wear with only 50,000 miles ??
  • 2000 Silverado LS Ext cab. I started hearing a noise going over bumps. Looked underneath this morning and saw that the back end of the left side torsion bar is no longer attached to the frame. The bracket that holds the crossmember rusted away from the frame. This appears to be riveted to the frame. I'm trying to find a part number for this piece. Any help?
  • 07chevz7107chevz71 Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 Silverado z71... it only has 77,000 miles on it and i have two broken leaf springs. The middle leaf springs on both sides snapped in half and i don't even put weight in the back, and i don't go off road.... i ocasionally tow snomobiles, and i'm sure not ruff on it. I took it to the Chevrolet dealer in Ithaca, NY and they told me that they just replaced the same ones on a 09 silverado with only 30,000 miles on it today. when i pulled it into the garage for them to look at it, the woman at service said to the technician " guess what is wrong with this truck" and the technician replied " leaf springs?" it seems like they must have a lot of problems with them and im wondering if anyone else has had this problem, or if there is anything they are doing to fix the problem with them breakin so easy. It is covered under the GM Protection Plan Warranty, but im afraid that they will eventually do it again, and by then my warranty will be up and ill be stuck fixin them myself... it doesn't sound like an easy fix either... the technician told me that he has to drop the gas tank and remove the exhaust just to get to them and replace them
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