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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems



  • I have a 1998 Jimmy 4x4 its not the battery its my electrical system but l dont know where or what. My lights act funny, one power window gets stuck sometimes, wipers change their own pace, the power reves up my engine sometimes, and my truck died at a light the other night and l couldnt get my speed up to more than 20mph so got it home and havent moved it since. lt starts up just fine but doesnt like to drive anywhere with gasping. lm taking it to the mechanic of course but l wanted to know if anyone else had these problems its never happened before. :sick:
  • Would someone help me in understanding how my wipers work only on High? Everything else on the multifunction switch works... I already plugged in a new wiper motor (which includes circuit board). Do I need a new multifunction switch and if so, are they somewhat easy to install?

    I have a 1998 Chevy blazer.

    Thanks for the help..
  • I own a 1995 Chevy Blazer and since the weather has gotten very cold here, the interior lights will not shut off automatically as they should unless the vehicle is really warm. Is there a sensor inside the vehicle or in the electrical system that may have been contaminated by some moisture? Also, even though the indicator light on the button lights up, my "Hi 4 wheel drive' will not engage. Any ideas??
  • My issue is this. Last sunday, my blazer broke down in the middle of an intersection. I was able to get the truck out of the way so I could figure out what the issue was. At first, I thought it was the alternator since the one I had was an original. But, that didn't work. Then, I thought it was my battery. No dice. So, i had to have it towed back to my house. While I was watching my truck go on the flatbed, one of the drivers told me that either something got wet underneath, or there was a short somewhere. So, I waited until Monday to see if "drying out" would work. Nope. Come to find out, the aluminum part of the starter broke in two. Great!! So, I bought a new one, and put it in on Tuesday. I charged the battery (cause it went dead in the process between Sunday and Tuesday), and everything worked!! Yes!! So, I drove it for a little bit, and parked it for the night. I didn't drive the truck for two days, but when I started it up on Friday, everything was in working order. I dropped my kids off, and proceeded to go out for a while. I hit a little bit of snow (by the way, I live in Connecticut), but nothing really happened. That is, until I got to my wife's job, which was about 10 miles away. When I tried to turn into her parking area, it stalled. Hmm. I turned it off and started it up again. Hmm. Must've been a fluke. I left her job after a while, and went to a couple more places. I went to turn into another parking lot, and it stalled again. Hmm. Now, my senses are really up. Turn it off, start it up, do what I have to do. I go down the road a bit, come to a red light, and it stalls again!! Okay, now I'm getting mad. Turn off, turn on, keep it moving. I went to another light, and I'll be damned if it happen to me for a fourth time. Oh, for the love of... well, you get the point. At this point, every time I go to stop at a light, I put it in neutral and keep the engine semi-revved up so it won't stall. I did that for a little while, until things started working fine again. I park somewhere, I get out, get back in, start up and go. Needless to say, I got all my work done and everything worked out fine. Until I tried to start my truck to go to work on Saturday. It won't start. The freaking battery is drained again. So, I had to leave it until today. I tried looking at everything possible that I can think of or look up in my Haines book. I looked underneath where the starter was, and the power wire for the starter was split open, and there was a couple of places where it looked like it sparked out. I put loom over the wire to protect it, and charged the battery, but it still won't turn over. It just kills everything and takes a lot out of the battery. There's 12v's going to the starter and the alternator, so it's not lacking power. So, what the hell can it be? I'm sorry that this thing is long, but I was told that if you tell someone your problem, and don't leave anything out, that they may be able to help narrow down the issues from the beginning, instead of asking alot of follow-up questions. Plus, this story might give you a quick laugh out of my mishap. Go ahead. I'm used to it. :confuse:
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    1.) Are the ignition and positive battery cable connections on the starter clean and tight?
    2.) Is the positive cable on the battery clean and tight?
    3.) When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter?
    4.) The fuel pump inside the tank may be failing and must be replaced along with the in-tank wiring harness and screen.
    5.) The fuel pressure regulator may be failing.
    Unfortunately the fuel pressure regulator is a intergral part of the MPI (Mmulti- Port Injection) system and is located under the intake manifold top section. You can replace the pressure regulator without replacing the MPI system (spider) by installing a Dorman #55162 (retail $36.99) fuel pressure regulator. As far as I know Dorman is the only company that offers a fuel prssure regulator that is separate from the entire MPI (Multi-Port Injector) for the MPI system.

    Be advised: The entire MPI system (GM-17113673) including the fuel pressure regulator has a MSRP of $577.49 plus about $200 labor to replace it. If the pressure regulator is bad, just replace the OEM regulator with the Dorman #55162 regulator.
  • Thank you very much. I'm going to try that today.
  • Interior lights: You might check the button in each door that tells your interior lights that the door is open or closed. One may be stuck.

    4WD: Vacuum lines or switch gone bad?
  • I'm taking the advise that duntov has given me as far as changing the fuel pressure regulator. I took off all of the bolts around the intake manifold and unpugged everything that was in the way. But, of course, I run into a brick wall. This truck, being 14 years old, has never had the intake manifold taken off. So, it's on there tighter than glue. I picked up a can of gasket remover and applied it on in hopes of it to eat its way through the gasket. That didn't work. Does anybody know what to use so I can take this manifold off without breaking it? :sick:
  • I fixed my issue with my 94 blazer not starting. Come to find out that the starter that I put in 2 weeks ago was defective. So, now I have a new problem. I had my truck running pretty good for the past couple of days. I had my check engine light on but I pretty much knew what it was. So, today I go out to check and see if there was any other codes that sould've popped up. There wasn't any, but I noticed that my battery was low again on my dash. I tried to start it up, I got a little whirr, and some smoke from under my dash. So, I'm going "what the F@#*!!" :mad: . I go and grab a flashlight and the fire extenguisher (just in case), and go back underneath the dash. I poke around, and nothing's wrong. Nothing burnt, nothing melting. I try to start it up again, and it works fine like nothing happened. I tried it a couple more times here and there, and everything was normal. Now, I have to go to my wife's job to bring her something. The ultimate test. Everything's working perfect. I get to her job, park the truck, get out, and come back about %minutes later, and the damn thing's acting up again. Low voltage, smoke, the works. I air out the truck, poke around, and I still don't see anything blown or melted. What the hell?!! Someone, please help! I feel like Charlie Freaking Brown over here!! :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Where are you getting these starter motors? Sounds like the same problem...this time excessive starter draw.

    A dragging starter can draw HUGE amperage, as in hundreds of amperes. That'll make your wiring harness dance.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Well, I took out the starter that I just put in to have it tested. It was bench-tested @ 95 amps, which was the max that it should put out. But, I did walk out with a starter/ignition swtich (which, by the way is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to put in 'cause it's mounted right on the steering column). After installing everything, the truck seem to kick over just fine. I tried it a couple of times, then decided to put the truck back together. After all that was done, I tried to start it again, and it was like it was dead as a freaking doorknob. So, now I'm scratching my head so much that I think I hit bone.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    Regardless what the stater test revealed, I feel like your starter is worn out. I did not think people tested starters anymore, they just replace them as a routine procedure after 100,000 miles if there are starting problems. Before replacing the starter, make sure the battery, the cables and the cable connections are good. You need to replace the starter and starter solenoid with a remanufacturered starter and a new starter solenoid.

    NAPA has the best remanufactured products. NAPA remanufactured starters cost from $100 + $29 core deposit for a standard starter to $144 + $60 core deposit for a premium remanufactured starter. Both starters include a new solenoid. Replace the old worn out starter and you will be amazed how well the engine starts.

    As you found out, there was nothing wrong with your original ignition switch. Ignition switches seldom fail. I have never had to replace a ignition switch after 50 years keeping my old cars in good condition.
  • in the back nothing work no stop/no turn signal/no riverse light/ nothing work in the back just only in the back area please help me
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Have you checked your fuses?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • all the fuse is new is a 1992 chevy blazer all the bult is new i try everyting ground cable new what next? hablo español
  • I have a 96 blazer that when you use the hazard lights all the tail lights flash even the backing lights the same as when I use the brakes at first it was just blowing fuses when I had the lights on and then turned now there's no turn signal at all and Ive checked all the connections to the lights but when I do use the braking or hazard lights everything else dims its almost like there's a short somewhere but Ive checked and replaced almost everything except the multifunction switch which I don't think would be the problem cause its my brake lights too and it was blowing fuses and I'm totally at a lost here and don't know what to do except replace that switch but don't want to unless I'm sure that's the problem....any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Okay I have a 1999 Blazer LS 4x4 4 door got about 118,000 miles now. About two years ago the throttle position sensor went bad or became out of adjustment. At the time my job was kind of hit and miss so I just unplugged the sensor. Everything still runs fine. Since then I have lost my job and been through a few others thanks to the economy and have not replaced it. About six months ago the right (passengers side) headlight went out. No big thing but before I had the chance to replace the bulb it came back on. For the past several months now some days it works some days it doesn't. Recently it quit all together. I also noticed my tag lights not working. My over head light stays on unless I push the over ride button on the dash. Today I replaced both the high and low beam bulbs in the head light and the tag light bulbs. Tag light still does not work and when high beam is selected the whole light goes out. Tested all bulbs they are good. Checked fuses they are good. I am loosing hair here. Have looked at all the wires I can get to to see if any chaffing did not see any. Break lights and turn signals work fine. Cruise works. Don't really care about dome light only mention incase they are somehow related.
  • General Motors issued a recall on the windshield wiper problem. It takes them
    about 20 minutes to do the recall. Solder on the printed circut board would crack thus
    leaving them inoperable. I know this because it happened to me. There was no problem scheduling the vehicle for the recall because they are able to do it very
  • msavage1msavage1 Posts: 1
    I have an '89 full size Chevy Blazer that does not have any power going to the ignition. When the key is turned nothing happens. The battery is fully charged and I have power going to the alternator and starter. I have checked all the fuses in the fuse box and the inline fuses that I have been able to find. I am curious if power needs to be coming out of the starter solenoid or where else I could check to see if there is a break in the power. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Posts: 49
    Your starter may have 3 leads on it. It may have 2. The large lead is direct from the battery. Only when the ignition switch is in the start or run position,you should have battery voltage to the small one(ones).Power to one small one makes the solenoid
    engage the starter drive gear which cranks the engine. One of the other small wires supply power to the ignition thus making the engine fire when the ignition switch is released. Of course to test the starter on the vehicle you'll have to have someone to help you.Use a voltmeter or a old 12volt bulb and socket you may have laying around. I use a side marker light and 194 bulb for this.Make sure the vehicle is in neuteral or park also. If there is no one to help,chock the wheels,turn the ignition on run. Get under vehicle with a screwdriver and bridge the solenoid using the large battery wire and the small wire on the solenoid. the engine should crank.If you get no results,start checking for a break in voltage between the ignition switch and the starter.Let me know what happens and I have a couple more things to add that may help.
  • tiffs26tiffs26 Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 Jimmy, and today when I put on my turn signal, the daytime running lights turned off. It didn't matter which turn signal it was. Either one made the lights turn off. My regular head lights stay on when the signal is on. PLEASE HELP!!
  • Pretty sure they're designed that way. I know my 2001 Jimmy does the same thing. I always assumed the DRLs turned off so the signals were more visible to oncoming traffic. Headlamps don't go off when you signal for obvious reasons.

    As long as they turn back on when the signal goes off, you're fine.
  • tiffs26tiffs26 Posts: 6
    But I have a 2002 chevy cavalier, and they don't turn off when i signal. I could of swore they never turned off before this. Besides, I've never noticed it on any other jimmy or blazer I've seen.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    On my '02 and '99 Blazers the DRL stay on at all times unless the headlights come on with darkness.
  • tiffs26tiffs26 Posts: 6
    Not sure. I found another forum that said this is normal. I'm gonna call a GMC dealer tomorrow and find out if it's supposed to do this.
  • tiffs26tiffs26 Posts: 6
    I talked to a GMC dealership and they said the DRL are supposed to turn off when the turn signal is on. So if anyone has any question, there's your answer.
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Posts: 49
  • tiffs26tiffs26 Posts: 6
    Like I said in my earlier statement, I talked to the service department at a GM dealer, and he said they should turn off when the blinkers are on. I think I'm gonna take his word for it.
  • drefoodrefoo Posts: 2
    You may want to check the recall site. There was a recall on some part of the brake that would cause the brake to flip over.
  • bogart380bogart380 Posts: 1
    i see this post is 2 years old but what did you do to fix this? i have the same year blazer with ALL of the same symptoms you are, or hopefully, DID have. i need help!!!
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