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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems



  • just bought a gmc jimmy not even a week later we are having electrical issues, the odometer and the radio on the clock dim out or flicker any one have any ideas but the actual dash lights are fine
  • mthomascmthomasc Posts: 1
    I purchased this a while ago and the vehicle was awesome. I started having issues with the vehicle not turning over. Ignition lights would come on, but not turn over. I replaced the starter three times before I figured out it was an issue with the remote starting system. Now if I try to start the truck with the key and it doesn't turn over I have to try to start it with the remote start system, using the FOB... which never did work from the day I bought the vehicle. Once I've tried to to start the truck with the remote start system, using the FOB, I would push the button on the FOB again... assuming this deactivates the remote start system. then I can start the truck using the key in the ignition....... strange. after this happened I no longer have the zones working for the heater/air conditioner.... vents only. no power mirrors, trying to engage 4x4 doesn't work. I hear a click and the light changes when hitting the button but it doesn't engage the 4x4. also the ABS seems to engage every time I push the brakes to stop the vehicle.
  • did you ever get this problem resolved? i know that we are having the same problem with our's. The 4 wheel drive lights up, and you can here clicking, and then the blower acts like it doesn't want to work properly. i know we also have a p0452 code comming up which shows a vacuum leak somewhere. i know i'm taking it to a mechanic in the morning to see if they can fix it.... please let me know if you found out what the problem was on yours
  • nljewellnljewell Posts: 21
    I've got an 89 Silverado with close to 200k miles on her, my problem is that the negative terminal melted when I was putting in a new battery. About a week ago it wouldn't start so I had the starter tested and it was good so I checked my battery terminals and I noticed that my positive terminal was stripped out. The parts store gave me a new battery, I hooked the + up first and when I was doing the - terminal I heard some sparks and then the whole damn thing melted. I am thinking there is a short somewhere but not sure where to start looking. Any suggestions would be great, like I said its got close to 200k miles so I am hoping it will be a cheap fix.
  • cluckerclucker Posts: 3
    I not a guru on vehicles but I am cheap when it comes to car repairs. I would take every fuse out of the vehicle and and check continuity from neg to positive leads and start putting fuses in one by one. Sounds like you have a dead short. If you find a short with all the fuses out disconnect the voltage regulator and see if the short goes away. Chafe wire on a harness to ground!!!! Let your ohms meter be your friend. Good luck
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,840
    Really?! :surprise:

    Wow, that's no harness issue I don't think...sounds like the positive battery cable is shorting out to the frame. You'd best follow it down to the starter motor and see what's up.

    OR --- it could have been a bum battery from the get-go (internal short)...if you got it from a chain store, that could be the case.

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  • shaner63shaner63 Posts: 3
    So my daughter's driving to work and the blazer just dies. I've got it home and I'm not hearing the fuel pump, AND I am not getting spark at the coil wire. The gas gauge reads empty, but it read a quarter tank when she left. (had went about 7 miles when it died) One thing she said was the speedo went to zero instantly when it died and while it was still moving. Dont know if thats noteworthy or not, if it would normally work with the engine not running. Kinda sounded like a major electrical issue to me. So I'm wondering would there be anything that would shut down those two systems (fuel pump/ignition) simultaneously? Seems like quite a coincidence, no spark and a silent fuel pump at the same time.
  • nickyp1nickyp1 Posts: 7
    The same thing happened to me!!! The problem wound up being a bad battery put in a new battery and never had the problem again. Good Luck
  • rhettrrhettr Posts: 1
    Ok, so there is no fuse box under the hood on the 97 Jimmy, so where is the fuse for the O2 sensors? Started smelling gas, friend had a reader said I had no power to any of my sensors.
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Posts: 49
    There are no fuses to a 02 sensor.power will flow through a o2 :mad: sensor letting the ECM know of any problem with them. The ECM calculates and restores problems in the fuel/electrical system. If you are smelling gas, there are reasons. Have you or anyone else changed the fuel pump? Do you have the right fuel cap. Is it tight? There has to be 7lbs of pressure built up in the tank.Then the purge solonoid kicks letting the fuel odor despense into the intake and charcoal cannister.If the very small hose on top front has been broken or left unhooked, you will experience lots of trouble. The ECM processes thousands of signals an hour .You have an OBDII engine. It is considered HO. So many things can make these vehicles act funny. After studying and living it for years, Nothing would suprise me about the Jimmy/Blazer. Have to have more info 'cause these are crazy cars
  • terry113terry113 Posts: 2
    power locks, rear hatch and power windows just stopped working can you help with the fix , thanks
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    That appears to be a blown fuse.
  • Okay so I just got a call from my husband who is stuck at the gas station....we have a 95 s10 blazer. My husband was coming home from work and stopped to get milk, when he went to turn the blazer back on, the headlights are not working. Both sides. No brights either. He says the fuses and bulbs are good...what else could be the problem????
  • sev85sev85 Posts: 1
    i have a similar issue on a 93 s10 pickup and i have replaced the main circuit breakers for the power acc. and the power windows on the fuse panel under the dash and have traced wires all day and have found no shorts or breaks in wires and than began trouble shooting power issues and traced the power wires all the way into the power motors inside the doors both locks and windows on both doors and have power to both motors....... i was reading a post a few mins ago about a 2000 chevy astro van same issues guy went thru every single fuse on the panel found a fuse blown for a secondary cigarette lighter replaced it and it worked so im thinking somehwere might be a relay that doubles over for switches and ties into this system somewhere and that fuse is blown causing the relay not to work

    check every single fuse on the panel both under the hood and in the dash if all the fuses check out fine than there has to be a relay somewhere that we are over looking im going to look into this solution tomorrow myself and if i get it fixed i will let you know my results.....
  • terry113terry113 Posts: 2
    that would be very helpfull , thank you , i do have multiple cigerette lighter holes for other things , there rite above the center console on the pass side , but i think they work , it all started with the push button latch on the rear gate , theyres no key hole to unlock it , its a push button on the outside , that goes to a power lock ,i didnt think to much about it at the time just figured it was a bad push button , then , months later the power locks and now the power mirrors , i think somewhere i read there is a service bulletin from gm, about what to do to fix it , i dont know , but any thing you find out would realy help , thanks
  • tlmorgantlmorgan Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    I have a 99 Blazer with just under 200k miles on it. Over the summer I took a business trip to Myrtle Beach. On the way home I started getting a surge that would knock the cruise control off. After a little while I noticed the dash lights had a quick power surge on and off. Then my gauges started bounced, specifically the speedometer. When the speedometer would fluctuate wildly and drop down in speed the transmission would begin switching to match the speedometer. Eventually this stopped and I was able to make it home to Atlanta. This problem never came back as bad until recently. Usually it would happen for just a minute or two randomly and then go away.
    This last week the problem came back in force until the speedometer dropped to 0 and would not come up . The car then shifted down to first gear and would not change upwards. I could manually move the transmission down to second and it would shift . However it would not shift higher into third or D. My mechanice was positive the problem was the alternator and changed it out. The car drove fine home from the shop. It drove fine half way , a 48 mile drive, to work the next day. Then the problem started again. I was able to make it to work but just barely. At lunch time I checked all the battery connections and the connections to the alternator. Everything seemed fine. I drove the car around a few minutes around my job and no problem. I attempted to drive home from work and only made it 9 miles before the problem became so bad that I had to park it.
    The next day I towed the car to the closest Goodyear. They checked everything they could think of all day. The only thing they could come up with was the paossiblity the battery cables were loose. They cleaned the cables really well and tightened them back down. I was able to get the car about 10 miles before I was back on the side of the road.
    My thought is there is some relay or fuse that runs fine until it gets a certain temperature and then it quits working. I will say the car temperature has always read fine. I feel that this is specific to whatever electrical component is in play. It took about 4 hours today to limp the car the additional 30 miles home. Everytime it would act up we would let it rest for about 30 minutes. It would drive fine for a mile or two and start back up again.
    I would appreciatte any suggestions or thoughts on what anyone might think is wrong with the vehicle. I am almost 900 bucks in this week in towing fees and mechanic bills. I presently have it parked at a shop that speciallizes in car electrical problems for $90 an hour.
  • mimi46mimi46 Posts: 1
    I recently replaced my battery on my 2001 jimmy a few weeks latter my doors would not lock with my remote which has new battery also, and when i used the power locks a fuse blew and every time i replace it, it blows again and without my power locks i cant lock the rear hatch does anone have any ideas. Thanks
  • I had a similar problem with the wipers that also caused my cruise control to work rarely if at all. After several expensive attempts to fix my problems, I discovered that replacing the fuses improved matters. Eventually I replaced or reconditioned all fuses in both the dash and underhood boxes. Again, things improved but were not entirely reliable. I then pulled the fuses again and sprayed all of the fuse sockets with T40, and anti-corrosion formulation. I also sprayed a few accessible harness sockets. That was two months ago. No electrical problems since.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    I do not know how a S10 Chevrolet can survive in the rust belt for more than five years because of the corrosion of the delicate electrical connections. The S10 is a delicate vehicle and needs constant attention.

    That is why you hardly ever see an S10 on used car lots. That is because by the time an S10 is more than six or seven years old it is worthless and is sent to the salvage yard. When a S10 reaches the salvage yard it is immediately crushed because there is nothing on it worth salvaging.

    Some auto repair shops refuse to work on a S10 because when the owner gets the bill, he will tell the shop to keep the car and sell for charges...if they can. I had a shop refuse to bleed my1991 S10 Blazer ABS brakes because they did not have a GM Tech 1 scan tool and did the did not have an employee that know how to do it. A GM Tech 1 scan tool costs about $400 and the repair shop would not use it more than once every four or five years. I finally bled the brake without a Tech 1 scan tool but it took two people and about 8 hours to do it. That would be $1100 at a auto repair shop.
  • Me and my wife had a similar problem with a 1992 Honda Accord. We had replaced the distributor to solve a problem with an engine code reporting a failure of the TDC position sensor. The car worked fine for a few days. Then, after driving the car for about 20 miles, the car sputtered. Less than a minute later, the car completely died. I couldn't start it again for at least an hour. Turns out a sensor in the alternator was overheating and shutting down the spark network. When it dies, you can check for spark by pulling one of the plug wires and inserting a flathead screwdriver into the socket on the wire. Do not hold onto the screwdriver for the next step. Have someone try to start the vehicle and see if there is a spark. If there is no spark, pull the wire off of the distributor that leads from the ignition coil. Repeat the previous test with the screwdriver in the wire from the coil. If there is spark, the problem may be with the distributor cap and rotor. If there is no spark, the coil may be bad. An overheating coil can fail and then work again once cooled.

    From what you described, it sounds like the voltage regulator on the alternator failed. There is a chance that voltage spikes may have damaged the computer. I would have it checked by a Chevy dealer. If the computer is fine, there is a chance the replacement alternator is defective. Most alternators that you buy at auto parts stores are not new, they are remanufactured. They take old alternators and replace only what they have to in order to get them working again. They then send them back to the stores to be resold. I can't tell you how many parts I have had to take back due to remanufacturing defect.

    Also, check with your insurance company for emergency roadside assistance. I have it on my insurance for $3 a month and it covers all towing within 50 miles of the towing destination. It's saved me several times.
  • I have 1995 S10 Chevy Blazer. Recently I've had issues starting it. In the beginning it would take 3 - 4 turns of the key to start it. Now it has progressed to 3-4 turns of the key with a pump of the gas pedal. New this morning. Turned the key and got no dash lights and CD player did the eject as if battery was disconnected, then another turn of the key power restored and a few more turns of the key and a pump or 2 of the gas pedal and it started. Any ideas what to check for an easy fix?
  • I think I may have found my salvation! Years ago my power locks, seats, and remote stopped working. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't fix it but I had to pay $300 labor. The dome light also went on and off by itself, but that's minor :-) Then the key became stuck in the igniton. Now about 3 months ago, the AC would momentarily turn off when I hit any of the power window buttons (includes heat or any blower functions at all)--then the 2 brake lights on the dash started going on and off constantly--at this point the the AC and windows entirely ceased to function. I'm a divorced mom and I don't have anyone to help me, and auto problems are a HUGE expense. I have had this truck for 10 yrs and it has been so reliable it ALWAYS starts for me but this was making it impossible here in FL not being able to turn on the AC OR ROLL THE WINDOWS down when it's 98 outside. I'm going to buy the IGN switch and change it out and I hope so much this fixes it! TY ALL!
  • If this only effects the automatic headlights but they work if you turn the switch manually you might have a weak spring on the emergency bake if the E-brake is depressed even slightly it will disable the automatic headlights from working....Good luck :D
  • Hi,
    I had the same problem with my 98 Blazer. The problem is definetly the low speed sensors I changed mine and it still didn't work most of the time when you replace the sensors alone they don't work. I replaced the both hubs with the matching sensors and that did the trick!!!! Actually it dosen't hurt to replace the hubs as part of your maintenance. Good luck :)
  • nickyp1nickyp1 Posts: 7
    edited March 2014
    I know its been a long time since you posted the problem with your blazer (4x4 problem) I was wondering if you ever fixed it and if you did what the problem was? :confuse:

    [Email removed]
  • Hi. I also have a 1995 S10 Blazer and have had EXACTLY the same issues with mine, and got those issues fixed. With mine, there were two things going on: the hard starting was due to an old and crusty distributor cap that needed to be replaced (go ahead and put a new rotor on while you're at it). Cost: about $50. As for the electrical issues, that's all in the multi-switch. Unfortunately, many of the blazers electrical functions (lights, wipers, cruise control) all run through the multi-switch on your steering column. It's not too hard to replace (and can be done without taking off the steering wheel if you're patient) but the OEM price is over $200. I looked around & found one at an online discount parts place, brand new & looks exactly the same as the original for under $70 (including shipping). Looks like you're in luck because I emailed myself the link to that part when I found it so I wouldn't lose it. Here it is. That's my 2 cents. Good luck!
  • i also have a 95 blazer s10. i found that the wire attached to battery wire the thin line did not have a good connection and car would not start and stalled out a few times before i fixed it. keep that in mind. danny.......
  • So i have been having Electrical problems with the suv lately mainly the windows would go down but not back up, or would go down very slow, or not at all. so i took it into goodyear they said i needed an ignition switch$, so i had it done. tested the windows in the lot they went up down fine, go it home they would not work. so i started playing around and found that the fuse( circuit breaker) for the power windows was getting so hot that i could barley touch it. Why is that, i assume its why the windows will not work. I was told i needed a new alternator, or i have a short in a door or somewhere. also sometimes the voltage gauge is low or moves. I have found that leaving the fuse( circuit breaker) out while running the truck and only putting it in to roll the windows up in down works half the time (thank god i have a garage) but when i pull the fuse out( circuit breaker), it is so hot i cant touch it. Any idea on what it could be before i go have this alternator done?
  • While driving, I constantly hear blinking as if I have my signal light on. It is not blinking/flashing on my dashboard, but always hear it blinking while car is running and driving; not when car is turned off. It doesn't appear externally, so it isn't a hazard while driving; only annoying to hear. Signal lights work just fine. I've replaced the flasher relay, not the problem. Anyone heard of a Steering column recall.
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