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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems



  • I unhooked the positive from my battery to see if the alternator was bad and the car was still running, but when I opened the door it just shut off, any suggestions.
  • joicy3joicy3 Posts: 3
    Well I tested the starter and apparently there was a short or something causing the power loss. I removed starter and installed a new one. Everything is working fine for now.
  • :) Hi! Some time ago the rear gate switch was replaced by dealer because it opened all by itself and blew the TBC (Truck Body Computer) fuse. Problem seemed solved until one day while I was washing the vehicle and sprayed water under the passenger side front wheel pocket it started cranking all by itself. I had the ignition key in my pocket. I rushed to my tool box and was able to disconnect the battery. The TBC fuse blew again. Next day I replaced the fuse, reconnected the battery and it worked OK. However it happens that if I'm going to wash it I have to remove the TBC fuse with the truck running, turn off the motor, wash the truck and after it is dry replace the fuse. Help me please!!!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    The water shorted the starter solenoid, which is mounted to the started just inside the right front wheel well. Take a look at the starter and see if a shroud or wiring is loose. A direct shot of water shouldn't engage the starter.
  • My wife has a 1992 Jimmy and is not getting fuel. I wanted to check the fuse for the fuel pump before I went any futher but her fuse panel has lost the markings on it. Can anyone tell me whitch fuse is for the fuel pump.
  • I just bought this 97 Blazer LT, 108,000 miles. The dealer has agreed to get the door locks and power seats working. I popped the fuse panel cover (opened the drivers door and saw it on the side of the dash) and saw the relay/fuse was missing. Dealer put one in and it pops immediately. I also noticed that the wipers do not work after the truck sits over night. After it's run for a while the wipers work just fine (possible drain on batt.). I had the alternator and battery checked and they were fine. I suspect these issues are all related to one electrical problem. Any thought's/suggestions on where to start?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Dealer put one in and it pops immediately.

    That spells "short circuit!" The dealer should be able to track that down for you.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Good link for the clip repair.
    My problem is related but different. I believe the rear window actuator is fried on my '98 Blazer. I had to remove the fuse to keep the actuator from continually operating. The rear window would pop open while driving or while parked without a button or keyfob being pushed! Can anyone confirm or advise? Where does one get a rear window actuator? I think I read somewhere that the door lock actuator and rear window actuator are the same part number?

    Thanks in advance!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Sounds more like the tailgate window switch is shorting, causing the solenoid to fire. Typical failure mode on a solenoid is to not operate. Seems somewhere in this forum mention was made of dirt getting into the tailgate switch and not letting it fully release, causing intermittent window release. Then again, it could just be the voices in my head trying to confuse me... :)
  • I have a 1997 Jimmy with about 100K on it. This happened once before but I was able to get it running to drive it home. When you turn the key on the fuel gauge will work, pump will come on, then nothing. Sometimes it will stop mid-pump and try to kick on again, sometimes it will finish and then nothing. The fuel gauge drops down all the way to the right, flat, past full like the sending unit is not getting power, truck turns over but won't fire. If I try it again, the pump does not come on at all, gauge remains flat. If I try again in a couple hours it will go through the above things again. Lately, sometimes when this happens the speedo will jump quickly up and down a couple of times then stop. The other gauges seem to be working. Sounds like a short someplace? I swapped Relays around, fuses looked ok. I hope it's not the pump.
  • Thanks for your insight, Jeff. Sounds logical that it's the switch...only problem is, where is the switch? Is this the key fob button, the dash board button or is it in the release/latch mechanism in the rear door? Are you able to describe what it looks like?
    Thanks again!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Do you have the tailgate (flips down) or the lift gate (whole door goes up)?
  • Well, the garage traced the short to the wiring for the lumbar motor. Once they disconnected the lumbar motor everything started to work again. I see in other posts that someone else identified this as a problem. There must be a pinch point in there somewhere. I have been trying to find a part number for that lumbar assembly but catalog is down for the time being. Does anyone have a part number for the lumbar assembly. I guess I should replace it cause the wifey will be on me to get it fixed. Thanks.
  • Well, the garage traced the short to the wiring for the lumbar motor. Once they disconnected the lumbar motor everything started to work again. I see in other posts that someone else identified this as a problem. There must be a pinch point in there somewhere. I have been trying to find a part number for that lumbar assembly but catalog is down for the time being. Does anyone have a part number for the lumbar assembly. I guess I should replace it cause the wifey will be on me to get it fixed. Thanks.
  • Like most I have the lift gate, sort of like a hatchback design.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    The switch is in the hatch and is activated by the pushbutton below the window. One trick is to push the button in all the way and use a shop vac or air source to make sure there isn't dirt that is keeping the button from fully releasing, thereby activating the switch intermittently.
  • Thanks! I'll check this out today and let you know. When I think back to when the problem started I had the leftgate in the open position and left it open during a thunderstorm. It was partially backed into a garage but I'm sure the pushbutton got soaked because of the position. So, between the rain and whatever dirt got washed into the switch I'll bet your suggestion probably right. It's hopefully just dirt in the contacts that I can clean out with compressed air or by taking apart and cleaning. More later!
  • Fixed it! I took the interior plastic panel off the liftgate to get full access to the hardware. I removed the switch assembly and took it apart. Surprise! The switch is NOT really water or dirt proof. The plastic housing is recessed inside the door but can still be exposed to the elements especially when the liftgate is in the open position. I cleaned out the crud on the switch contacts and used a waterproof grease to lube it. I reassembled and she works like as new!
    While I had access to all the linkages for the door lock I cleaned and lubricated all the cheap plastic pieces and levers to hopefully prevent the problem others have experienced.
    Like a rock...yeah, right!
  • my horn has stopped working. I checked the fuse and it is ok. horn will work if you use emergency button on my keys. Could it be a bad relay?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Well, crushed rock, maybe.

    Glad you got it working.

  • Jim:
    Thanks again for all your help! I really appreciate your assistance.
  • Did you find the part at a part store or did you have to go to a dealership??? :confuse:
  • I fixed the part...didn't need to buy anything. I took the pushbutton/lock assembly out and disassembled the switch, cleaned the contacts and reassembled it. This cured the short in the circuit. Originally I had thought the actuator was bad, and that would have required a trip to the parts store.
    I've found over the years that some electronic components can be disassembled and repaired. A year or two ago the intermittant wipers weren't working. I took apart the housing on the wiper motor and found the contacts had much too much grease on them. I cleaned off the gunk and lightly lubricated them...and everything works fine. Every once in a great while it's really something quite simple...but I usually fear the worst!
  • I see Many many blazer's with Electrical issues hope i didn't make a mistake ..

    Mine is a 1997 100,007 miles LT - Pretty much fully loaded ... Electrical Seats and windows and such ...

    Started out Door lock and power Seat relay Pops .. Haven't found that short yet but have a few more hint here .. and "MAY" be related .....

    Here's My SERIOUS issue ... Wife brought the truck home ... threw the keys at me and said the Air dosent work again (FLORIDA COLOR = BLACK - Imagine my problems) Ok ... So I get in the next day ... it's not only dosent have air .. the Day time driving lights are out, the Dash and all the gages are out .. no SPEEDO , No TACH (Not Digital) and cant trust the Amp and gas gage --- And When I turn on the lights the head light Buzzer stays on .....

    OK I deal with all that on the way to work ... On the way home ... head light Dim, wipers move slower and slower ... until POOF .. nothing - I was driving on the battery ...

    GET get it home through several jumps and figure Alternator Right ? I put a meter to the back nut on the alt and got 11.3, 11.2, 11.1 .... it was crashing fast ... took it off and ran to my friendly Auto parts man who tested it twice -- trust me if he could sell me one he would but it was good !! Battery holds a charge and is about 6 months old ....

    I am Pretty Handy when it comes to cars ... so if someone can give a hint on what next or may have had this issue ... PLEASE let me know .... A RELAY ? Some Typical Problem Connector ??

    DAVE !!

    PS ... also thought the Circuit breaker issue with the seats and locks was an issue in the seat .. but when disconnected Seat --- Circuit breaker Still got damm near red hot and popped ... So Still hunting down that one .. :))

    HELP !! Car in garage .......... !!!
  • HI there & do you have pictures? I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer and have the same problem but we did get the back window to open and took screws from the panel and it does look like part of the blue tab is broken...but when we put a tie throught the blue plastic and put the other end through the medal piece - it would open the liftgate window but it wouldn's close...I wonder if we put the tie in the wrong you have suggestions?
  • I got in the back and pulled back the plastic panel and you can barely see a gold , metal piece & I put my finger behind that & pushed down & that opened the we're trying to figure out how ot fix with a tie or should we just buy a new actuator..
  • I pulled back the plastic panel - got in the back seat & pulled it back - is hard to do but I did it and than you see a gold medal piece & I put my finger behind that & pushed down on a lever & presto - it opens the window...Now we're trying to figure out how to fix the blue piece on the actuator with a tie or should we jsut try to buy a new actuator?
  • Did you get this fixed? I have a 2000 Blazer and pulled on the plastic panel in the back & did get the window open by putting my finger behind the gold medal piece & pushing down and that opened the do you know if we put a tab in the blue plastic tab or the rubber part behind that??
  • I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer and have the panel opened - do you have pictures on how we fix with a tie or should I order a part - guess the actuator for this??

    If you have pictures or a web site will you send to me?
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