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Honda Civic 2006-2007 Issues



  • My fiance is 6'4" and he drives my car all the time.
  • How did you not have to pay? I am looking for suggestions.

    I have 24000 on my 2007 civic coupe, and was just told that I need 2 new tires and new brakes. I have had both front struts replaced and the rear control arms replaced too. I have read online that bad struts put extra strain on the tires, and cause extra wear, but Honda is telling me that it is normal to need new tires at 28000. I have NEVER needed new tires that fast on any of my cars, and I don't think that I have ever replaced brakes before 60000 miles.

    Any suggestions?
  • If you have Bridgestone Turanza's on them then it is not unusual for them to wear so quickly. I was told this by a few tire pros and if you look on it will tell you across the board that this tire doesn't last long. New brakes at 24000 is extreme in my opinion. I have had both struts replaced and I am going in again to have them looked at 12,000 miles later. My brakes have been fine at 37,000 miles.
  • I own a 2007 4 dr si. and since I purchased the car 2yrs ago.. randomly when I turn my car on my steering wheel is locked and the light on my dashboard is on and unless I turn my car off and turn it back on it remains on and locked. I have taken it to the dealer for service and ocourse it doesnt happen. So they have no idea what it is caused by.. They say they "tightened" a few things and the famous saying if it happens again...bring it back..Well, I did over and over until I switched service dealers and went thru the same thing over and over..and according to this service department they were going to order the part in which has been on a back order... I gave them more than enough time and I contacted American Honda Motor Corp. explained to them the situation and to date it is in service to have the ECU scanned for any codes. being that the steering is electric the ECU records any codes..

    To describe the issue, when your car is off, and you manually lock your steering wheel it's locked into place...imagine turning your car on and you get the same feeling, luckily my first thought was to turn it off and turn it on again,,some times I have to do it a few times until it feels normal again.. Weird and scary..

    Any suggestions? Advice
  • My steering wheel has locked a few times but that was because the wheels were turned. All I did was turn the steering wheel a little and it unlocked. I don't know if this has to do with your issue but if your tires are not turned then the steering wheel won't lock.
  • Three years ago, I accidentally put a fender dent there, while attempting to park in too small a space in a car park. The paint surface was not scratched. What is the going rate today :confuse: for having this kind of dent pulled out?
  • How many angels can dance on the head of a pin??? The going rate depends on so many variables no one here can predict repair cost. What variables you ask? Where do you live (geographically speaking) because labor rates vary by location. Do you live in a city-or rural area? because population centers while having more repair shops generally charge more. How good or nice of a job do you want? How much time will be involved in repair or is the dent in a poor location for an easy fix? Well, you get the picture. Go to a few local body shops and tell them what you expect and you will soon find "the going rate".
  • thanks for the my issue is more electronic. I recieved my car back from the dealer and they "re-connected" a wire that is connected to the cars ECU(computer) and cleaned it off..since there was some dirt and debri that could of caused the issue. I heard that song and dance before..And then if that doesn't work they are going to replace the actual computer.

    Its weird..we'll see..
  • tjs01tjs01 Posts: 34
    I have a 2006 EX. I'm having a problem with the driver's side front window streaking on the interior of the glass. The streaking is on only a portion of the glass. I asked the dealer about it and was told it is a normal characteristic of the car. Honda has advised dealers to clean the glass for owners that bring it up.

    I have never had this problem on another vehicle, including the two other Hondas I have. Anyone else had this problem and had it corrected? What would cause the interior of the door assembly to get wet and dirty?
  • We absoluely have the exact same problem. The car is a 2006 EX sedan bought new and I noticed the problem immediately. I would clean the inside driver side glass and the very first time it was lowered and then raised again it would streak then I would clean the glass again and lower it and....etc etc etc. 3 years later it STILL streaks and I have no idea why it does or why it should. I originally thought somebody used excess lubricant on the window mechanism while building the car and it would eventually disipate but since it is still there and since you have the same problem, well, now I don't know. "Standard characteristic of the car" indeed, more like standard answer when further investigation is too much to bother doing. Seems as if Honda wants us to return to the dealer each and every time the window is used for a "free glass cleaning". I never asked our dealer about this but if you find an answer let me/us know.
  • jjflynnjjflynn Posts: 2
    Hi All!

    I am trying to figure out who I believe on this daughter's 2006 Honda Civic was in an accident back in September 08, and was repaired (including a replaced radiator). Feb 27th 09 it overheats and we're told it's got a blown head gasket.

    Now the insurance company is claiming that the mechanic improperly bled the coolant system, causing an air bubble that eventually caused this massive failure. They don't want to pay, and Honda doesn't want to fix it under warranty because they think it's faulty repair. The mechnic says it's crazy...why would it take that long for the car to fail?

    Who to believe? Does this seem likely? What should my next steps be?

    Thanks in advance...

  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    First, nobody involved is going to step up and take responsibility. They will only blame each other. I have researched causes for "blown" headgaskets and it seems that there may be a few reasons it could have happened due to the accident. There are three basic reasons for failure, 1. design issues from the manufacturer 2. improper installation when replacing them or rebuilding an engine and 3. overheating which seems to be the catagory your issue probably falls under. Since the radiator WAS replaced as a result of an accident one of the possibilities is that an aftermarket radiator (rather than a genuine Honda part) was used. This aftermarker part might not have the cooling capacity of an original part causing under-cooling that over time caused a problem. Many/most modern cars have marginal cooling systems and any reduction in cooling capacity will eventually stress the head-gasket over time. Strike 1 for the mechanic if he did use a cheaper offshore (China or Indian) part. An air pocket (air in the system) can indeed cause overheating which in turn causes head-gasket failure. Strike 2 for the mechanic if he did not properly bleed out the air. A cooling leak can (obviously) cause overheating. If it was slow and nobody noticed low cooling levels until it overheated big time there goes the head gasket. So, if the new radiator connections were not tight...well strike 3 for the mechanic. There are some other reasons but all of these cause overheating and THAT is the reason for a "blown" headgasket. Other causes...defective thermostat, bad radiator cap, cooling fan/s not operational (plugged into the harness securely?) low coolant level (was this full when the car was returned from repair?). These seem the most likely reasons and sorry to say all point to your mechanic POSSIBLY doing/not doing one or more of them.
    Let us know how it turns out
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Assuming the gauges were working correctly, do you feel the owner should have some responsibility here? After all, if the car over heats, for whatever reason, you'd have to ignore the temperature gauge for a period of time to have the head gasket problem, wouldn't you?
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    Yeah, you would but the guy is asking for possible reasons for the root cause. He also stated his daughter owns or drives the car not him so while inattention or ignorance of the function of the gauge is "a reason" for the overheat it isn't the primary cause. By all means lets give the driver some responsibility for the ultimate failure. Drivers are the last resort in noticing and correcting potential problems before total failure. All drivers should familiarize themselves with the function and location of all controls and and gauges within their vehicle and further, they should glance at all critical items (such as the temperature gauge, oil pressure warning lamp and charge indicator) periodically while driving. It is a good habit, how many do it??? obviously not her.
  • ghofkinghofkin Posts: 2
    My audio/navi panel suddenly did not light up on starting the vehicle. None of the control on the panel worked. Yet I was able to change radio and CD channels and control volume from the steering wheel controls. Just as suddenly, a day or so later everything began to work normally again. My service department said they had never heard of such a problem before. Any insights into this 'quirk'?
  • donna28donna28 Posts: 2
    Today my 2006 manual transmission Honda Civic was reving but not seeming to be catching in gear RPM's running high. Wondering what it could be before I bring it in for the big bill. I live in the country and commute to the city so have 185,000 km. highway km. Looking for any advice?? Donna
  • wbeattiewbeattie Posts: 9
    You do a lot of driving! You have well over 100.000 miles on your car. I would say by your description of the problem. as well as the amount of miles on your car. that you need a new clutch. Ger a couple of estimates for the work. I would be interested in what they are going to charge for the work since I have the same car with a manual transmission. My guess is 500 to 1000 dollars.
  • jjflynnjjflynn Posts: 2
    The report back...targettuning you were on target...though there are still some puzzles here. The diagnosis was (Strike 3) problem with a connection, specifically hose clamp. The result was NOT (apparently) a "blown" head least we don't think so at this point. There are some interesting ins and outs, and one question remains....

    Last Thursday I came to the conclusion you did and walked in to my mechanic and said, "looks like you guys blew this one." He agreed to do the tear-down for free, fix it free if it was his fault, and give me the labor free in any case. We were going to call back the insurance adjuster if he found cause, and (btw) there was an outside chance Jiffy Lube had something to do with the ex called me two hours later and said, "I don't want that guy touching this car!"

    Her idea was to pay the dealer who diagnosed the blown headgasket to do the teardown ($1500--ack!), have it fixed by Honda so they'd be on the hook, and somehow sue my mechanic. I still like my guy--he's been jake for 12 years--and I thought he ought to be on the hook for it. I thought her plan was impractical (and I don't share her devotion to that warranty), she thought I was crazy for letting the mechanic at it again. I threw up my hands, and she started talking to lawyers and other mechanics.

    The upshot is that she had it towed to ANOTHER Honda dealer and that one diagnosed the ill-fitting clamp. That should have been visible...right? My daughter says that there was some pressure test that had to be done and that it couldn't be seen, but if you've got leaking coolant it's going to leave some stain. Upshot: it seems likely that my mechnic didn't handle the clamp right...but Honda dealership #1 was WAAAAY off base. What the ex was going to plonk down $3-5k for turned out to be a $100 repair.

    Here's one thing I still can't figure out: we keep going over the issue of the "aftermarket radiator." I'm not sure I even know what that word means any mechanic showed me the order from State Farm with the part number, the order system he used to buy that part, and the part # on the receipt from the parts warehouse. There were two versions of the part: one from Japan, and one from the US...he said he thought the 2006 Honda was too new to have an aftermarket radiator on the market at this point in any case...but the dealer claims that a radiator should have some Honda stamp on it if it's "genuine." I'm not sure what to believe about that...or even if I should CARE at this point! Any advice on that would be gratefully received.

    Per another respondent here...I have my daughter watching the gauges like a hawk. Thanks, again, to the posters here...
  • donna28donna28 Posts: 2
    Close, would you believe 1200. with a 1 yr. or 20,000 km. warranty. The work is done and it's running nice! Expensive repair!! Thanks for your response! Commuting Donna
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 4,133
    Went in for an oil change today and mentioned that the rear makes a weird noise over speed bumps and is way low with anyone in the back. Turns out they replaced both rear shocks under warranty no questions asked. Will run out of warranty on June 16th, the end of the 3 year period. Just hit 20k on Tuesday, nowhere near the 36k mileage. Did sit in a new EX and liked the cloth interior. Also saw a white LX-S model which looked sweet with the small lip rear spoiler...which I'd love.
    Did spend some time sitting in a '09 Fit Sport and the seats hug one better than the Civic's but don't like the dash layout at all...the Civic's is far superior to me. It did have a carbon fiber add-on kit which helped the dash overall look, would look very nice on the Civic dash also. Might check into that at my local auto accessories guy. Just gave the dash a more polished, finished look.

    Probably silly to spend the $ on such an item but loved the custom look. Also have been toying around with a front strut brace for the car. Would it really improve the car's handling characteristics or is it really a waste. Will check out that dash kit tomorrow though.

    The Sandman :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2009 Nissan Versa SL Hatch (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

  • nealmnealm Posts: 41
    Today's NY Times auto section (3/22) reports that Honda has issued TSB 09-005 for 2006-9 rear shocks that may have come loose. They offer "replacing the assembly" with full or partial reimbursement for out of warantee cars at district manager's discretion.
    Also, in the same article, note TSB 09-007 for replacement of "drive belt tensioner pivot bolt and a rerouted drive belt" for some 2006 Civics. Honda will sent out a notification letter and the repair will be free.
  • kathyc1kathyc1 Posts: 138
    Re: the TSB 09-005 loose rear shocks, I checked my Owner Link site and there's nothing about this. Does anyone know if it's a situation where they know which cars are involved and no one else will be notified? Thank you.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 4,133
    Had mine replaced two weeks ago. Went in and mentioned I hear noises in the rear over speed bumps and they replaced both shocks under warranty.
    Way cool!

    The Sandman :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2009 Nissan Versa SL Hatch (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

  • kathyc1kathyc1 Posts: 138
    When the shocks went out on my '02 Civic I found oil dripped on the garage floor. There's nothing like that and I haven't really noticed much noises over speed bumps. Would they be able to tell if I just took it in for the next oil change and asked to have them looked at? Also, did your dealer need notice because they have to be ordered first? Thank you.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 4,133
    Just went in for a routine oil change and since I'm near my 3 year time frame, asked them to look at this problem I had noticed. They did, they replaced them, and I thanked them and left a happy customer.

    Just love my Honda and they've got a customer for life I suspect.

    The Sandman :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2009 Nissan Versa SL Hatch (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

  • kathyc1kathyc1 Posts: 138
    Well, yes, I love mine too, but maybe once they get everything replaced we can relax and enjoy it. LOL
  • tjs01tjs01 Posts: 34
    Does anyone have a source for a copy of TSB 09-005 (or other TSBs related to the 2006 Civic)?
  • trick18trick18 Posts: 5
    bought my 07 civic last year with 12000 miles on it. From the begining there was a slight humming noise from the rear. Put 20,000 miles on it and the noise got so loud could not stand it anymore. Took it to the dealer today and there were 2 recalls, 1 for the brake switch and 1 for the water pump pulley botls. I figured the problem was the upper contol arms even thought the tires looked ok on the outside. Got a call from the dealer and was correct. They needed to replace the control arms and the tires which were not covered. They gave me a copy of the Warrenty History report which showed just before the 1st owner sold it he had the rear bearings and housing replaced. My guess it was the contol arms all along. I called Honda to complain about the problem and was hopping they would at least help with the price on the tires but no luck since he said I had to many miles. I asked him why it was not a recall and he stayed it was not a safety risk and only a couple of cars were effected. He then went on to say that I should be thankfull that I brought it in 4,000 miles before my warranty ran out or I would have had to pay for it. At that point I was fumming. I told him I was going to get for the arms replaced and buy 4 new tires then trade it in for anothe manufactures. He said sorry to hear that. I bought it because it was a HONDA but now cant take a risk since the warranty is just about up. Honda lost another customer.
  • wilso127wilso127 Posts: 8
    This is only a minor annoyance, but has persisted since I bought the car new almost 5 years ago. When the dashboard fuel indicator gets down to about a quarter of a tank, the needle will often suddenly plummet to 'empty' and the needs fuel light comes on. Yesterday, a hot one here, it did as usual so I made a mental note to but some $1.90 Regular in the AM. The next morning, in the cool of dawn, the indicator was back up to 1/4-tank and the indicator light did not come on. Is the measuring device in the tank measuring fumes as well as liquid? And if so, wouldn't there be more fumes in the tank during the hot daylight hours than there would be the following dawn? Just curious...
  • crazyflycrazyfly Posts: 61
    I have experienced the same thing to some degree. The fuel indicator gauge goes down faster from 1/3 of tank to E than it does from full to 1/3. It could be because of how the fuel tank is shaped. I've also noticed that the 'need fuel' light comes on and off. Sometimes based on how fast I was driving and whether on a level or hilly road. Once or twice a year I use Valvoline fuel system cleaner for cars with more than 50k miles, it also cleans the fuel gauge. So far it has worked well.

    I try to keep track of miles per gallon achieved by my car, and to that I've observed that car drives about 375 to 400 miles in one tank of gas, so I reset the trip-meter to zero on each fill-up and get the gas again before trip meter gets to 400 miles. I use this primarily to keep track of cars miles per gallon, but it has also made me less dependent on the 'need fuel' indicator light.
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